I know I'm late to this jacket party, but WOW is this going to be helpful, along with your video of making the final version. I'm so grateful that you've gone through all this work of learning the best way to put these jackets together so I can reap all the benefits. Thank you so much!
It's so interesting to see how you have improved your techniques with each jacket. I can definitely see a huge difference with the final jacket. I love the sleeves at cuff and shoulder seam and the overall fit of the black jacket. Beautiful fabric and creative detailing. You've heartened me in my disappointment with some of my results now that I have got into knits. It's a learning curve!
You're making great progress on your Coco style jackets Susanne, keep up the good work. I really enjoy your 'how it made' and 'patterning' videos the most but truthfully, all of your content is top notch and I love listening to your accent to boot!! Have a great weekend!
Thanks so much Heather💕💕💕 I'm slowly but surely getting there 🍀🍀🍀 it's so nice to hear that you enjoy the content (and the Irish lilt🍀😍) have a fab weekend 💕💕💕
This is so incredibly helpful you have no idea. I’m about to embark on my first Chanel inspired jacket project (men’s: think Pharrel wearing Chanel jackets). I’m dreading the quilting, because everytime I work with slippery fabrics, something seems to go wrong. But I’ll practice first before I do the real thing. Anyway - I’m loving that you share what has worked and what hasn’t and what you’ve learned along the way. You’ve saved me sooo many hours - it’s going to take a lot of time for me anyway, but this helps and awful lot. I’m super pleased with your videos. 😍 Looking forward to watching the rest - I’m literally taking notes. also just wanted to say - your pace of explaining is spot on. Detailed but efficient - your editing is to the point but not hectic. It’s very impressive to see how you’re pacing your edits. Please don’t change anything to do with editing. You’re nailing it!
Hi just an idea for the black and white one: could you release the quilting just around the pocket/underarm area (where your darts are) and then the funny wrinkles on the outside may be gone?? You would have to hand stitch the quilting where it starts and stops so it would not completely come out, so most of your garment will of course remain quilted.
Your intention to learn and improve your sewing techniques inspires me! I have to agree with other posts that many would be thrilled to wear your “mistakes”! I loved the black and white one. Your eyes did light up when you started talking about it. I would understand if you didn’t wear them tho...I have a tolerance level for my mistakes and often discard makes if the voices of the critics in my head get too loud lol. The black one is stunning and looks beautiful on you...big difference by using the sleeve head! Have a fantabulous week 🙏🏻
Thanks so much Jacqui💕💕💕 I think I have those very same voices in my head 😩, and they will be very loud indeed if I do wear that one 😉 such a shame but on the upside, I won't make the same mistake again 👍 those sleeve heads were a revelation to me this month👌👌👌 love them💕 you too Jacqui💕💕💕💕💕
Having made several of the Chanel type jackets myself, including the quilted linings, I know how much work they entail, but also how much fun the creative process is. Thanks for sharing your process. The last two jackets are beautiful. I use sleeve heads in every blazer jacket I make. It makes such a difference to the look of the sleeve.
Such a fab project to undertake Audrey for lots of reasons for me, including the all important boost to creativity levels you mention👍👍👍 and those sleeve heads were a revelation to me this month👌
Thanks so much for all of your videos. I'm not one to log it and give "thumbs up" because I usually watch on my kitchen tv, but I am am subscribed and I do think I've seen all of your vid-posts, some more than once, and I've learned so much from you and continue to learn from your processes and your suggestions. THANK YOU TONS! All of your vids are great, regardless. Thanks for sharing your time with us. Best, Linda, USA
You really hit the nail on the head with the black one. It is absolutely beautiful. This last techniques sound like real couture ones. Very impressive work
I agree with you, you’re very final Coco style jacket was absolutely stunning! So worth all of the muslins you went through to get to that point! I am so sorry I missed the poll and looking forward to the results! I love all of your videos, you are so creative! I especially loved when you didn’t see multiple options of sewing the Ogden Cami. I also love when you show how you use your blocks to create a garment idea! I just love your channel!
Thanks so much Myra, I'm loving this project and have learned so much with every make 💕👌💕 No problem on the poll, I only had it live for less than a day, I'll definitely leave the next one live for longer 👍 I'm so glad you enjoyed the cami video, I've just filmed my April plans video within which I'm hoping 🍀🤞🍀 to do something similar with a dress pattern👍 You're so lovely to say that Myra💕💕💕 I really appreciate it😘 Thanks again and have a fabulous week💕💕💕
Wow! The things you consider unwearable, most of us would love! LOL And now you are waist deep into Advanced Tailoring, and I am mightily impressed again. Those advanced details are what takes an inexpensive jacket to a Luxury piece and you can clearly see it in the video. Thank you so much for sharing with us. Can't wait to see the next one. Big Hugs. Have a fab weekend. I'll be on a cruise next week so will be away for Friday's video, but will watch as soon as I get back.
Thanks so much Eva💕💕💕 I'm loving this project, the learning curve was (and is) steep👍 the difference those couple of techniques make 👌👌👌love it💕💕💕 I hope you have a fabulous break, a cruise sounds so wonderful 👍👍👍 enjoy every minute Eva💕💕💕💕💕
Outstanding progress, my favorite is the black one but all of them helped you build up your skill so they are all great. I love your channel thanks for sharing!
You always share great new techniques and ideas, as well as inspiration. I love seeing all the steps you take to get to your final vision/version. It encourages me to stay the course on my fitting and style journey. It also encourages me to get out of my comfort zone. So please continue posting all your videos. I didn’t see the poll but, I agree with everyone else. All of the above. Thank you so much for sharing with us.
It's comments like yours Estelle that make me want to continue uploading💕💕💕 I'm so glad you're enjoying the content👍 when I do the next I'll keep live for longer👍 have a fabulous week💕
Hi Suzanne, I love them all, and even though you say some don't fit well, they still looked fabulous on you 👌💝. I always learn so much from you and I personally don't mind what you post...it's always spot on 👍😁😘
Whaw! Again! Thank you for sharing your process, including the “fails” and the learnings. (And I thought this style of jacket was easier. Haha.) I learn from your larger projects, that I need to start prototyping like you do. Tend to study and study and study, until I know exactly what to do, before doing anything. And that’s not best route to developing a skills like pattern drafting, fitting and tailoring. I know that, but seeing you do, helps me get over the hurdle of just allowing myself to go ahead when outcome is not certain. Thank you! P.s. Missed the poll, but also love all of your videos.
P.s. 2) How I felt for and with you, when you showed the mistake with the flat quilted lining in the dratted outerfabric of the penultimate version. How annoyed you must have been. Hope you can put it out of your mind and wear that beautiful jacket. The loose weave of the outfabric may over time stretch into shape. Maybe? Hopefully. But oh, oh. Poor jacket. Poor you. ;-)
That's so lovely to hear lily💕💕💕 I think I could take a lesson from you on planning, if I had of thought about this one a little more I might have worked out that one of these jackets with the quilting is not suited to darted patterns😉 however jumping in feet first has definitely forced me learn more with each project and each mistake 👌👌👌 Go for it Lily, what's the worst that can happen eh😉 have a fab weekend 💕💕💕
Great job. I love the three piece sleeve. One thing you haven’t mentioned is Chanel uses a chain sewn just at the lining edge around the bottom of the jacket. It give a great weight to the hem. Try it out.
Thanks lisa💕👍💕I've been researching the chain and what I haven't been able to find is what weight of chain is appropriate and how does one work that out given that we will all be using different fabrics😕🤔😕 any tips you can give would be greatly appreciated 👍👍👍
Susan Khalje teaches a great class on sewing the classic French jacket and she has a pattern and also sells the chain on her website. I took the class several years ago and my understanding is you use the same weight chain for all jackets. It’s a great finish.
I did lisa, thanks so much💕💕💕the only problem is it looks like I'll have to take the course in order to find out about the chain😕 on the up side though the two jackets she has on the mannequins advertising the course look amazing, very inspirational 👌👌👌 I have been using a fab blog post to help me with the construction and the wonderful author has mentioned the size of the links that she used but no mention of weight so I think if I do include a chain it'll be decorative rather than functional (maybe I'm just overthinking this🤔) and as you say standard for all👍👍👍 Ps your lace skirts sound fab, maybe I should take a class or two on Craftsy 🤔 thanks again Lisa for taking the time to help me out with this, it's super appreciated 💕💕💕
Do you know Susanne, I would be pleased with ALL of those jackets you made, and I would wear them with pride! This explains why your makes always look like they have come from a high end boutique or designer shop, whereas mine looks like I have mugged a tramp for their jacket! 🤣🤣🤣 I missed the poll? But I mostly like the 'making of' videos, because I learn so much from them, however, I also like your 'makes' videos, as it is always fascinating to hear about your thought processes and the various stages you go through with the toiles! Whatever you do, you do it with aplomb, so I will love them, no matter what you choose to put up! As always, TFS 👍❤
This made me laugh out loud Hazel 😍😍😍 I too have made many items that have turned out exactly as you describe, I think we all do. I'll do another poll in a little while and maybe keep it live for longer👍 it's so nice to hear that the content is enjoyable Hazel💕💕💕have a fabulous weekend 💕💕💕
Loved this video which was a timely reminder of couture techniques that I learned many years ago. Interfacing cut on the bias was a new idea for me - I tend to use vilene h410 which has stabilising threads. We were taught the chest piece but it was referred to as a plastron which I think comes from the days of suits of armour! Please keep up the videos - you were greatly missed during your break over the New Year.
Thanks so much Caroline💕💕💕 those techniques were a revelation to me this month, what a difference they make👌👌👌I so wish I was like you and taught these techniques 😶 thanks again Caroline and have a fab week 💕💕💕
Didn't see the pole on instagram but just want to say I enjoy all your videos and it beats me why I am not watching you on the great british sewing bee you are so good in every thing you do lol the only drawback of the programme is the time limit as like many I like to take my time doing things can't wait to see your final Jacket xx
Thanks so much Edwina💕💕💕 the poll was on RU-vid, one of those note type things that comes up on the feed😉I'll leave it live for longer next time👍 the sewing bee is way to scary for me😮 I'm loving watching though 💕💕💕 I'm with you on the time limits, they're crazy, how those guys are doing it I've no idea😮there's no way I would cope 😩 roll on Tuesday night🙌 thanks again Edwina 💕💕💕
Thanks Sandra💕💕💕 sending you all the Irish luck for your patterning and subsequent jacket construction🍀🍀🍀, I'm loving this project💕💕💕 have a wonderful weekend 💕💕💕
LOVE LOVE LOVE! i agree with the others, I'd happily wear your "mistakes"- LOL! Although, I TOTALLY get it about the fit being off, etc. Your progression in perfecting the fit is AWESOME! I did participate in the poll and I chose 'All of the above' - LOL! You know already I love seeing how you transform your blocks, the "making of" videos.
Thanks so much 💕💕💕 this project has taught me so much, I'm soaking it all up like a sponge 👌👌👌 thanks for participating in the poll👍👍👍 it's great to get a bit of feedback on the overall content 👍have a fabulous week💕💕💕💕💕
Beautiful "Chanelesque" jackets. The fabric is lovely. Is it available online? I love how you have added your own style to the cuffs, collars and pockets. It looks like you had a lot of fun working on each jacket and researching various construction methods. Great video!
Thanks so much Jill💕👍💕 unfortunately the checked one isn't available online and the black one, I can't for the life of me remember where I bought this one, it's been in my stash for good while🙃 I'm loving this project and playing around with the finishes definitely boosts creativity levels👌👍👌 I'm glad you enjoyed the video, have a fab weekend 💕
The progress you’ve made is fantastic. I chuckle because I just can’t get that much sewing done in one month. You are awesome. I wanted to ask, for your final garment are you going to add the Chanel chain at the hem. It really helps with the hang of the jacket. Finding the chain is not always an easy task though. What do you do with jackets you I’ll not be wearing? Do you donate them? I have to look up the pattern book, I’ve never heard of it. I have several pattern books from college but that one escaped me. It sounds really good. I can’t wait to see your final, especially since your black looks absolutely.
Thanks so much Anne💕💕💕, getting there, slowly but surely😍 I've been looking into the chain and am currently undecided as to whether I'm going to add it. My dilemma is around the chain weight and specifically what weight is appropriate..... my assumption was that the chain should be the weight of fabric for it to work as I've read its intended but cant find confirmation of this anywhere 😫 (another lovely lady and I had this exact same discussion in the comments at the weekend😍 and I mentioned there that maybe I'm just overthinking this 😧) Anyway, the short answer is I'm still deciding🤔 If I have made something and the construction is good I will give it to charity, if the construction isn't good it will usually get refashioned or given to a friend of mine who makes clothes for dolls for her granddaughter and friends, as for left over fabric from garments I usually use these for trims👍 I love that book, its fab💕👍💕 fingers crossed for the final versions🤞🍀🤞
Sew Custom I hope the next one is exactly as you want. I think the chain is of a certain weight and doesn’t matter the weight of the fabric as I have some of the chain. You are so smart, I love how analytical you are about your process and I wish I could do that. I think I’m more “by the seat of my pants”. A terrible way to go. Lol. This is partly why I love watching you..,I’m trying very hard to be more analytical. I say partly because the other reasons are you are delightful to watch and I learn so much from and I’ve been sewing a long time. Thanks
Hello! I love the jackets you made! But could I ask where you got that stunning rose-pink plaid? Does it have a name? It’s just gorgeous! And do you have a direct link to the blog post you were talking about? There’s a link to the blog, but not that post, and the blog search (and google) don’t lead me to it. Thank you so much!
Beautiful jacket 😍 how did you adjust the first and second jacket center front to a straight line instead of the slanted opening lines, i have the same issue and i cant seem to find a solution, thanks
Would ever do a video or a post on your Instagram how you adjusted the ease and fix the front centre line? Where the upper/chest/bust front centre line meets in the middle but not at the waist? I have the same issue, i couldnt figure it out.
I had another question, do you prefer Gillian Holman over Natalie Bray’s books. Do you have Gillian’s book about bias-Cutting? I use Patternmaking by Helen Armstrong & Pattern Making Made Easy by Connie Almaden-Crawford. We had to have these in college ( fashion design. Have you tried any draping, that was my fav in college.
Hi Anne, I love both of these books but for different reasons, the Gillian Holman is very brief and as I'm learning more and more I find this one easy to pick up and work from without having to think too much. The Natalie ones are much more involved and it takes me longer to understand the instructions but its very thorough, so once I "get it" I feel as if I have a full understanding of what I'm being instructed to do and why (Gillians' book doesn't provide the "why"), I tend to use these for patterns that are a little complicated for me👍 Thanks so much for letting me know about the Bias Cutting book (I hadn't heard of it) but I'm definitely going to look into it as I am very interested in the subject👍👍👍 Would you recommend those books you mention, I would love to hear what you think of them. I so wish I had of gone to college to study fashion design as you did, I would have loved that💕 I have dabbled in draping but without success, however I do feel that I have a little bit more of understanding of patterning than I did back then, so it may be a good time to give it another try🤔 (apologies for the long response😉) have a fab week Anne💕💕💕
Sew Custom Sew Custom I would recommend the books, however, since I don’t know Bray’s books I would worry they are more like Helen’s book. Connie has a book on draping that we used in college. I love that. I like Helen’s but I agree that if you haven’t done flat pattern before it takes a lot of concentration to learn. I just bought a full body dress form from France in my shape so I can drape pants. I just took a class on that. I also have been making jeans. I’m excited that I finally have a pattern that it’s. I’m going to order the Bias book by Gillian
You have so much more patience than I would have! lol I was thinking, I'm not sure how far the front facing and the front neck facing go towards the sides but are they deep enough that you could fold the front of the blue plaid (jacket 1) at the top of the neck over making a lapel of sorts that would even up where the ease at the top would grade to the edge of the front bottom edge? You could do a self covered button and sew the points down with the button to add some detail, just a thought to make it wearable by just leaving it open and not intended to close. The book you've mentioned is in my amazon cart ready to purchase!
Fab idea Cecile but I think, for me, that one is beyond saving, it's definitely not waisted though, as if I hadn't have made this one I wouldn't have searched out the solution for the sagging chest and then found the sleeve heads👌👌👌 I'll find a good home for it👍👍👍 That book has been so worth the money for me as I've learned so much from it👌 I hope you feel the same about it if you do purchase🍀🍀🍀 thanks again Cecile and have a fabulous weekend💕💕💕
Great Timing! I’m currently making a Chanel jacket. I love the look of the bias fringe as part of the trim but in my test sample I couldn’t get my fabric to fray, and ending up going back to a straight cut strip, which frayed well. My fabric is not tightly woven. Any tips of how to make this happen for another time? Thanks for the great videos!
Great minds eh Valerie👍👍👍 my findings on the bias cut are the opposite to yours, my loosely woven fabric frayed with very little effort once cut.... however my 1st toile was more tightly woven and it took so much effort to fray it, it took so long to get 1m of trim on that one, I gave up on more than one occasion but after what seemed like hours I did finally manage it 😩 the only tip I could give is to stick with it, the results for me are definitely worth it👌👌👌 If I come across any more practical tips whilst making my next ones I'll let you know 👍have a fab weekend Valerie and good luck with the completion of your jacket 💕💕💕
Wow! First time I am seeing your channel and it's absolute inspiration and your sewing is beautiful. Have you tried making your shoulder seam width narrower? In the blue jacket, it appears that the shoulder width is too wide for you. I wonder if you make the shoulder seam narrower, if that would solve the issue with the sleeve cap? Might be worth a try anyway. Hope you find that helpful.
Thanks so much Gwen💕👍💕 thanks for the tip, I think this would work perfectly if I was using stretch fabric but what I found last month was for the sleeve to fit nicely and have enough ease for movement I needed a little bit of width at the shoulder. I think the sleeve head must have been invented for that very reason, it's genius, love it💕💕💕 thanks again Gwen💕
Thanks Astrid💕👍💕 it's very rare for me to throw any garments in the bin, if I have made something and the construction is good I will give it to charity, if the construction isn't good it will usually get refashioned or given to a friend of mine who makes clothes for dolls for her granddaughter and friends, as for left over fabric from garments I usually use these for trims👍
@@SewCustom, that sounds fine. I sometimes sew garments for my granddaughter. But mostly I avoid toikes. But this leads to go on the safe side of sewing which is not always satisfying. ( Sorry for poor English as I'm German)
Thanks so much Constance💕👍💕 all things Sewing related takes up most of my evenings, I love it though👍👍👍 I definitely recommend the book, paired with other resources, it has been fab for me👍👍👍 have a fab weekend 💕💕💕
If I have made something and the construction is good I will give it to charity, if the construction isn't good it will usually get refashioned or given to a friend of mine who makes clothes for dolls for her granddaughter and friends, as for left over fabric from garments I usually use these for trims👍 👍👍
You know the flat lining in your lovely jacket is going to slowly eat away at you, just take it out and make a new front section that will curve with your bust and the jacket. (Notice how easy it was for me to say that) 😂 Seriously could the front section of the lining be taken out and be replaced by a new front lining? I imagine it would have to be sewn in by hand, like the original Chanel jackets. ( that accomplishment would put you in god status to us). Your thinking about it aren’t you 😂.
You're so right Cindy, this is one that will definitely play on my mind if I do wear it😍 thanks so much for the suggestion but I think the darted pattern may be the problem as it's not suited to the quilting 😩 such a shame 😩 but at least I know now eh. Thanks again and have a fab weekend 💕💕💕
