Mark Healey drops a Cheat Code on how to survive situations you maybe shouldn't. Crack 9 minutes of the big wave experts pearls of wisdom on Stab Premium.
Great tips. I just heard some advice about not sprinting unnecessarily so I’ve managed to slow myself down and breathe more intentionally. Haven’t had to test it yet but already noticed I’m conserving a lot more energy.
That’s seriously the biggest problem i had too especially in hawaii, or central cal, putting 100% effort in, making it over but there’s a bigger one behind it and now you’re in the worst spot possible and absolutely gased. i’ve even made the mistake of not bailing and literally riding the wave underwater on your belly. but damn healy everything you do i knows 10 times gnarlier. i’d love to surf himalayas with you
yea some push the limits of surfing, mark in his own right, is pushing the limits of the longest hold downs which i think is how he takes a really good bath after a long day farming
Left out an analogy for people that have no clue: 1) Take a few deep breaths. Then see how long you can hold your breath while sitting on the couch. 2) Do 15 jumping jacks. Exhale. Hold your breath WHILE continuing to do jumping jacks. Time yourself.... #2 Is paddling your butt off to catch a wave. But fall in the initial take off process..
Marks last tip: "Just stay under for three waves if you dont feel it letting you up." Yeah...uh, no. Nope. If after three seconds im not up its a wrap. This dude counting waves, might as well bring his speargun while hes down there waiting for 3-4 waves to pass over
It seems in only recent years do I see pro or big wave surfers explain how they survive. I know what I felt like getting thrashed by 4’ waves and wondering when I would pop up. My mind can’t fathom what it must be like to be cratered by something as big as a 15-30’ wave.
I’m 70, haven’t surfed in over 40 years. Aren’t there James Bond-type mini scuba gear available for surfing by now? Whenever I was out at over 8’, my only wish was to have just 2-3 breaths extra, then I might have even tried big waves. Anything over 10 scared me to death.
I had a 2 wave hold down trying to swim out to 10' Pipeline....to go shoot mr Mark Healy. Didn't make thru the keyhole and an 8' footer took both my swim fins at Ehukai. Couldn't touch the bottom, couldn't reach the surface. Eventually felt like I was going to die, right there in front of the lifeguard tower....so I stoped moving ..and my back felt the surface. Took one breath and luckily the wave washed me to shore. Walked straight to the lifeguards and asked for a pair of borrowed fins....swam out and scored. Even had the photo printed on Kauai's NALU UNDERGROUND. Remember, dont fight the wave...waves don't get tired 🤣😂🤣🤣
