Marx 400 Revival & Re-paint that went wrong! 

Another awesome video! Thanks!

Besides the paints issues. Still an amazing restoration.

Nice vid Ron, like Heather Locklear also, keep up great enjoyable stuff. Thanx, Sam

Looks good from my house! good video!!

Thats be awesome to see the build on your truck

Yeah chuck the truck on the second channel, keen to see it! And i reckon you were right with not enough drying time between coats

Definitely mixing the paints. Always need to check on a test piece first. Still looks good brother! Nice restoration! 💯🫵✌️

Love your videos and commentary. The proper way to remove the reverse unit is to take the motor apart. If you don't you will take the chance that the side plates will get bent. Also, to clean the reverse unit it's best to use contact cleaner and don't use any oil on it. Use WD-40 or something similar to free up the solenoid plunger. Keep up the good work and have fun doing it. Dave

Wheels cleaned up amazing!

Great video, and Heather Locklear, too. You definitely need to do a video of your k20 and when you do post a link for the video.

The loco rehab turned out great. Always a crapshoot when you overcoat flat paint, especially mixing brands /formulations. Probably worth stripping and starting over with a semi-gloss black. You can always flat it down if it's too shiny (less chance of orange peeling). I always enjoy the videos, keep them coming, including the truck! 👍

NICE!!!

Truly cool, how fun thanks for sharing. Your work is appreciated.

I knew the first name was Heather, but I couldn't remember whether she was Locklear or Thomas! Drat! They were roughly contemporaneous. Good show, Ron, keep restoring those locos to running condition. Your channel is always fun to watch and I admire your patience and knowledge.

Even though the paint didn't turn out well, I do like the paint scheme concept of the locomotive. The paint scheme of the locomotive makes it stand out from the typical Marx offerings. Hopefully, the repaint will yield the desired results on the second time around.

Heather Locklear I believe. I still have my Big Rail Work Train from Marx, maybe circa 1979, 71 or so? Need to clean it up as well. Been kinda focused on Lego trains stuff. Now I can tear mine down and clean it up some! Take care and again all the best. Yep love to see the truck video too!

I would love to see the videos about the car restoration as well

If you want to start over and strip it, I recommend Super Clean. It comes in a purple bottle and is totally safe for plastics.

I've painted cars in barns that should have gone south. Nope, amazing. I've been in booths running for cans of reducer to wipe off something that should have never happened 😮🎨🖌

Great video! I laughed and cried. You are very talented.

I think it'd be about time you gave cousin ron something to do. Great rebuild. Paint: try and try again; pretty soon, you'll have all the answers...

Nice video Ron. Hope you are doing well? Shake it easy.

Best spray paint for plastic shells are Krylon Fusion (for plastics) gloss black. I always have great results.

Let's see the truck build. Yes please

As always I enjoyed your video. I have some experience with spray bombs. As long as your clear and paint are compatible, but spraying another layer of paint or clear on after the first coats have set up will cause lifting like you had happen. After it sets up, it’s feels dry to the touch but you should wait another week at least to make sure it fully sets up before adding coats or a clear. It’s how the paint cures. Keep the awesome vids coming please!

I knew it was a Heather, just didn't know the last name. And we had that same NYC caboose with a wind-up Marx diesel. It came with a big key you'd stick in the side. Even as a kid, we didn't much like it once we discovered electricity.

An the Marx set come out great

Yeah that would be cool to see the video. I like your other channel.

Ron, your skills at bringing things back to life are outstanding. I am so gutted for you about the paint fail. The same thing happened to me after I spent ages painting an F7 B unit (with expensive model paints) and meticulously putting on decals... I used the exact same brand of clear coat as you did, and it ruined all my hard work! I went back to using Vallejo varnish with the airbrush for my finishing coats. Not worth the risk. Thanks for your videos!

When painting old plastics the best thing is to buy an airbrush, then decant the rattle can paints, then shoot the paint through the airbrush. Yes it's more labor intensive but the finish result is well worth the work!!! Check out Fine Scale Modeler and their airbrush techniques! You will be impressed!

I have a Marx train set Christmas present 1963 I was 11 , needs cleaning but I still have it

1. Ron, that is called Orange Peel and according to some model car channels on here you can eliminate that with some wet sanding and a polish using your dremel and some Meguiars car polish. 2. Yes please to a car channel! Go Bow tie and go Napa/Chase Elliot

Great repair on the marx the paint problem is called lifting . It is caused by two chemicals reacting with each other. Two different brands can be a problem . If yur black was an enamel and yur clear a lacquer they will react like that .l like SEM Products witch is a automotive paint. It has many sheens and colors i dont kno if napa would have it but it is a good product to work with

"I've been working on the railroad, all the live long day" Sometimes it just doesn't turn out the way a feller wants it to. Damn paint mix n match stuff. Great Marx set, love the vids and the work ya do. I would watch the work ya did on the pick-up, and you could put it on this channel if it was 1/87 scale. LOL.

Nice job Ron

Ron Keep on working those Engines!🤘🤘🤘🤘

Looks great I would leave it the way it is. You might regret it if you try to repaint it.😮

Thank you for sharing.👍

Marx saved money wherever it could, but they didn't cheapen everything. The wheel bushings are brass, and really don't need any lubrication, and Marx recommended using regular Vaseline to lube the gears. Very simple, and the motor was built like a tank.

LOVE your repair videos, Ron! Keep those Lionel and Marx brutes rolling! 🚂

Regardless of the paint woes I think it still looks good and it runs like a champ. Def interested in seeing your C20 as well Heather Locklear....mmmm hmmmm!!!

Looks like your clear was acrylic over enamel base. If the paint won’t strip off with brake fluid or whatever, you can bead blast it. Use a low pressure, 25 psi or so. Crushed walnut works well.

They're on I for my experience I've had that issue too it with the paints and I found that the Rust-Oleum's a good product but the two times where it comes out really really heavy when you spray it it just too much The light coats seem to be better when you shooting a clear and some of those clears have a chemical in them that reacts to other paints that will cause them to give you like a lacquer check so try to not use the two times it's just too heavy and if you do use it hold a can way back and and not put it just put really light coats when you shoot it and two three four stages and let it dry real good Good luck brother like your videos being there awesome

Use some la totally awesome to remove the paint. The ace premium is an enamel while the rustoleoum is a hotter laquer based paint. Ive had issues of krylon not going over krylon if you let a color cure for more than a day

My guess is that acrylic paint was used on the caboiler and caused the plastic to craze. Always stick with enamel paints when painting plastic surfaces.

So sad that the paint went weird after all your hard work. You did a great job getting the silver and gold highlights! I recognize the classic model from the TJ Hooker show...great pic!

The best thing to use to gloss coat or satin coat over enamel is a water based polyurethane Varathane and Minwax make them. I’ve been using them on my slot cars no more orange peel. Also very good video. Thanks Ron

Great job on fixing the old Marx's trains

Rattle can paints have a tendency to go on heavy...in order to apply thin coats keep can 10" to 15" away (looks like you were about 8" away with the black) and do not try to cover in one pass....wait a few minutes and then light coat again until covered...usually 3 or 4 coats...mind your recoat times usually within 1 hour or after 48 hours...my experience has shown that when it crinkles the paint was put on too thick and/or too quick for the recoat. Lastly watch the temp and humidity when you paint...looks like it was raining when you were putting on the black... Hope that helps... Rich...

Definitely would like to see video on the "cheby" K20 4x4

Very nice. Sorry about the paint.

Yes, let's see the Chev video please.

Heather Locklear!!She could make any man or teen blush!!!

Too bad about the paint. Sticking with the same brand sometimes helps. Also, patience really pays off when using spray paints. I will sometimes wait even a week untill giving another coat. Usually things go without issue. Thanks for the video!

Ya lets see the Chevy rebuild too...please include a link if you post it elsewhere... Thanks in advance Rich...

What happened to your paint job is called lift where the clearcoat was chemically hot and bit into the base coat, this can be avoided by laying your first coats of clear on kind of dry and waiting a long time 20 to 30 minutes between coats. The solvent in the clear softened and expanded the flat black.

I was thinking the rust was causing it to not making proper connection? Coils are crazy. Just wish they worked be on track switches and didn't melt. Lol

Takes 48 hours or more for the paint to cure, it has happened to me a few times

Sorry about the paint. It is always a bit of a dice roll. You might try Tamiya rattle can paint. Prime it with Tamiya primer grey or just their flat black the use Taimya semi gloss coate.

My dad has a 74 Chevy k20 with a 454 big block

Restoration has its challenges and before the paint incident this one was a beauty! -dave When restoring my '60s vintage HO cars and locos I found out about paint compatibility the hard way as well. Now I always test the paints and coatings for compatibility on an old caboose shell. Lacquers and acrylics don't mix but some things like clear coats and other paints should be tested. Let the test patches sit at least overnight. If there is no change or damage they are probably compatible with the plastic and each other. For decals over mat or semi gloss paint apply Clear floor wax where the decals are to go and then seal the decal with another coat of Clear. After that apply a dulling solution. I've had only mixed success so your mileage may vary. I ruined the paint job on a cheap TALGO set by cleaning it my normal way using alcohol. It took the paint off down to the plastic. When I can afford a little compressor, I have an airbrush languishing in a drawer somewhere and plan on repainting it sometime in the future. The set derails and the riveted together motor needs to be disassembled and made to work properly as well. That project is on the very back burner, maybe next year :) My web site has many videos of my restorations and detailing. There is a lot more raw video to edit and upload too, but I've been busy with other non-train related projects of late. I gave away all my Lionel and AC Gilbert sets when I was around sixteen years old. I still have an AC 300 4-4-0 locomotive in kind of rough condition and one piece of 2 rail sectional track. IIRC it has a blown motor :( I may or may not try to restore it in the not so near future. My next project, now that I have my old and only semi prototypical Mantua Mikado running better than new, is to detail the loco to near super detail standards. That should be a lot of fun. I lucked out as the cast parts show no signs of "zink pest". I was also able to find parts on ebay to replace many of the broken and worn out ones, including the pilot, valve gear and bearings. Lots on my plate however. Currently I'm trying to get my 2cycle Lawnboy mower working properly. Many new parts have been or are being installed. The current project is replacement of the crankshaft seals. Next in the queue are a semi vintage Ariens show blower which needs new or refurbished ignition and a Honda snowblower needing a carb rebuild or replacement. Oh, almost forgot, finishing the restoration of a 1999 Lexus. The body is in very good shape but there is a lot of rust on the bottom. Luckily the brake lines are fine. New parking brake, filler tube and emissions system repair. Lots of new parts for that money sink but the electrical and electronic gizmos all work excepting the sound system display is a little sketchy. Also I need to repair and repaint my kitchen roof which has developed a pinhole leak. My last repair lasted six years. Hopefully I can get back to model train restoration and detailing sometime this summer. -dave

I would like to see the build, Thank you

Heather Locklear

TY, I didn't read every reply could it have been a Lacquer and Enamel thing, trying to remember lac. will cover most paints but the enamel is like a lady finicky

Definitely do a video of your K20. I think the 3/4- and 1-ton trucks are pretty cool. I posted a video of my old truck on my train channel it just didn't get that many views.

The Classic Model is Heather Locklear

Let me know when you post motor fix on her!

Say, I was on ebay on 1-4-24 n seen that same loco, but no trailing truck, n no tender, then I started searching n found that same tender. I think I'll buy them n try my hand at restoration! I think your rubbing off on me Ron. I won't be doing a YT channel! 😁 you're safe 😁

Marx and lima are easy to work on, the Piko BR55 Steam loco from the DDR era is a nightmare to work on, remove the base plate and you short the chassis and in order to find the short you have to mess with the wheels and then you have to re-do the valve gear.

Rustoleum 2x clear is the main culprit even with their own paints its too "Hot" (Chemical reactions) and causes crazing and peeling. You're much better off using hobby paints and their corresponding clears. MCW basically took the place of Model Master and are the best hobb5y enamels on the market, they even make their own hardener which improves the drying time as well and their 2k clears work perfect every time. You can find it at most LHS's and the prices aren't too crazy considering the end result and less time spent working. Never ever ever use Rustoleum 2x on a piece till you test it first in a hidden spot or on a separate piece, painful lessons for sure. Great video!

Old paints are Enamels and the new paints are Acrylics.

Many moons ago I sprayed enamel and then recoated coated with lacquer. I had the same result. But it was worse because it was a car body and I was a kid. In my old age I have become a "nothing but Tamiya" freak. I know that it is expensive, but the quality and the thin consistency covers up absolutely no small detail. Of course the air brush is the best, but sometimes I just don't want to fool with it. Like I said, I'm old. Great video as always. I really enjoy your channel!

The paint job - nobody ever learnt somethinf by NOT making a mistake. Mistakes are how we learn to do things better next time 😀👍

The 400s are weird because they're nearly identical to the 490 aside from some small changes to the mold. It has more prominent shades over the cab windows, a single roof vent as opposed to three, and a chunkier headlight, that's about it. They're also just about as common. They also might only come in black, while some 490s have a white stripe and numbers, I also have a grey atsf one with white stripes as well.

Great way to spend my 20 mins. Glad to see it running great to bad about the paint. U know what they say sh!t happens lol

Heather Lock

Heather Lockhart

hey Ron, nice video, could you please write more about flat black color? what kind is it?

Good work, as usual. If needed, would that Chevy fit in the ultrasonic cleaner???

Well, bummer. You can always re-strip it. Since it's mostly on the flats I think it might have been a combo of too much paint (pooling) and not letting the prior coat dry. There's different surface tensions between the gloss and flat. Flat has "tooth". Gloss wants to be smooth. The pooling gloss dissolved the not yet cured flat and there ya go. I did it too 🤬. Better not to mix paint brands. More importantly don't apply the second coat until you can no longer smell the first coat. Old trick I lurn'd from a 1970's _Model Railroader_ article. Back when folks were melting their fine craftsmanship with a coat of Floquil. Thing is, you get to learn.

Try tamiya molde paint

I'm thinking you paint is enamel and clear coat was lacquer? Model is Elizabeth Taylor.

Great job Ron and I can't wait to hear what the fix is so I'll be staying tuned. I'm looking at a Lionel that has reversing problems are they tough to fix?

Cheryl Teague

You made a lot of extra work for yourself, just spray WD 40 in the hole, up into the E--unit.

Does the 400 engine have a plastic or diecast metal shell?

oh, I would like to know the name of your engine/truck/oil/campers/lifters/rebuild/scraped knuckles channel. And also, how much you have to pay to do your laundry at home. 2 bits, 4 bits, 6 bits, a dollar? Nice job snagging commercial quality machines!

Too easy Heather Locklear

have u worked on 1938 american flyer H O engine 5318 with a.c. motor ?

Truck please.

Hot glue express