This video is about the rebuild and repair of a Massey Ferguson from 1952 who suffered damage and wear over the years. Now recovered and in intensive care
My first engine rebuild was on an earlier model when I was 12! Great machines, built to last and with hydraulics to boot. Happy memories on a small farm in Ireland.
It is so joyful and relaxing to listen to this gentleman , he is such a pleasent instructor not to say the least very knowledgeable....thank you furor a great video
Thank you for your kind words. I try and like to share... not that I hold the wisdom... Always willing to learn from comments, and many have provided very good comments. TXS
Very good instructural video. I look forward to seeing more as you put it back together. I love old equipment and seeing how things were done and put together years ago.
Great video, well done for keeping the old Fergies running. I myself have a 1964 35X, it was built the same year I was born. I love it like I love the Mrs!!!!
Thanks for jogging my memory, I left school Easter 1960 and went to work on a farm, it was three farms run by two brothers. In total they had 13 tractors, with 5 on the farm I was attached to. 1 old Fordson that ran on TVO {paraffin} it was started on petrol and when the engine warmed up it was switched to TVO as a cheaper fuel. 3 Fordson Majors and a fairly new Massey Ferguson 35. The new kid I was given the old Fordson doing chain harrow work on the dairy herd grazing pastures. The seat was steel on a huge leaf spring with the optional extra of an old sack for comfort, a day on the and every bone ached. Silage time and I was upgraded to the Fordson Major for trail hauling, now I has a padded seat and every control was a lot easier to use. It was also fitted with a front bucket or tines and we used it to clear the cow sheds, and spread the muck on the pastures. The helped in the second crop of hay. We did repairs and servicing on the farm this was overlooked by an older semi retired mechanic, he taught me so much that stood me in good stead for later life. The other farm had the combine and there crew would come over and take care of the harvest, we followed with the baling and again I was then upgraded to the MF35, driving that was like driving a RR, so comfortable spending a day in the saddle was no problem. Each tractor was set up for different tasks so we would swap around a lot, even driving two or three in a day. The MF had a drop hitch so we could drop empty trailer and hook up loaded ones without leaving the seat, later we installed the same on the Fordsons. Good luck with your MF rebuild, I'm sure when finished she will run as sweet as a nut.
Nice video, thank you. I rebuild Ford 8Ns but hold a special place in my heart for the Masseys. I grew up 1 mile away from a Canadian Massey Harris Ferguson plant!
Great video !!! I just bought an MF 65 which was totally rebuilt and painted. She is running with a Perkins diesel 3 cylinders engine. This tractor is primarily for shows, but I may run it around my farm, along with the other tractors.
That is great, maybe you should post a video, I certainly like to watch it. I use my David Brown and Fergy on the farm to cut the field.. Txs for the comment
One of these was the first tractor my Dad bought in 1953, it to had the 4 cylinder Standard Diesel engine. This year we rebuilt the engine and a new clutch and goes like new again!! A marvellous tractor - has been the backbone of the farm for the years.
These 4 cylinder MF 35s were notoriously difficult to start. We had one in the early seventies and my father had to leave it running all night sometimes in case it wouldn't start in the morning. It was not the case that there was a bad engine in it as it was quite a common complaint about them at the time. Needless to say we had to get rid of it and replaced it with a 35X multipower which we still have and just overhauled it this winter past.
Thanks for your comments, very kind of you. and yes it takes a bit of time to create a vid. I try and I am always pleased to have comments. No matter if they are positive or negative for me they are all positive as i learn from it.
They still make these brand new today.Check TAFE tractors of india.I would love to have one new.They have all the old patents for massey ferguson and have been building masseys for years.In fact,they still build new designs for shipment.In the right hands,these tractors are good for a lifetime of service.Great tractors.
Hi D3Shooter, Thanks for your quick response !!! Looking forward to the next inline video. Maybe I just might make one myself, thanks for the encouragement, Ken P.S. I subscribed to your channel
Hello Since you sent me the manual I have been busy, I got all the new electrics done worked great, I have always had a fuel issue as in it would start with a bump start and not keep running, so after checing I relized there was no fuel going to the injectors, I was recomended to rebuild the pump new o rings and all, So I did that and reconnected pump gets good pressure BUT still no diesel to the injectors any ideas ? I'm getting stummped now
Hello , you have unusual double fuel filters & an also unusual cold climate cylinder head , as it has individual heater plugs in it , Quite interesting , if you only have one battery it,s 12 volt , they are better with only 1 battery , we converted ours from 2 big 6 volts to just 1 x 12 volt & it started & charged better , less joints to go dry . Best of luck & I,ll keep viewing , as I,ve done one of these .
Hello Bob , what injector pump did you use when you converted your ambulance , also , did you change the camshaft or very carefully re - time it ? Changing the injector pump on my own 4cyl 35 transformed it . Best Regards .
Hi Shooter, I just purchased two antique tractors for rebuilding. One is a Massey Ferguson 40 industrial and a Ford 630. I took up your advice on making a video here on RU-vid. As soon as it is ready I will give you a heads up !!! Ken
Hi Ken, That is great, I am looking forward to it... are you going to rebuild both ? I am using a David Brown 990 and plan to rebuild it the winter (if I have time).... see you ken
@@D3Sshooter Yes I plan on rebuilding both engines, and heads. I should start filming in a couple of weeks. Also, I just picked up Ford 655A tractor, it is a big one, that one I will rebuild also then most likely sell it. My 1944 2 N is running great so that is one that does not need attention at least not at this time !! Again I have you to thank, thanks to your videos. I hope I can explain as well as you do. I will keep in touch pls. do the same, best regards, Ken
I have a -58 mod. with the same problem, and I will start the job in oktober. Now, I have a 135 with lifting problem to fix. And I also have a Land Rover Defender :-) with no problems :-)
Yes they are. The back tire / rims are from a MAN polycarb truck. The front from a 4x4 truck. I did put them up as i want to drive on the grass with it. Txs for the comment
Hello do you know where to buy the high pressure fuel lines for this model of tractor? My lines are exactly the same as yours but I can’t seem to find any for the model with the glow plugs.
Beautifully repaired with care and consideration. It’s a joy to watch you work :) . Have you heard of JB Weld? I have used it many times to repair cracks and broken parts of metal. It has a temperature rating of 288c and can withstand pressures of up to 5020 psi. Being a paste it can be easily shaped and seeps into cracks. It can also be thinned down with acetone for delicate jobs. Either way 5* well done!
In Australia we call them "core plugs". It's never crossed my mind that cooling water freezing in an engine could crack the casting and pop the plugs. The old thing needed a blanket non those cold nights. ~ smiles ~
We just called these the 35/4 they were always difficult to start. The problem was the injection system they were indirect injection. They always need a perfect battery and starter and heater plug. The best way is to heat it get the engine spinning with the starter and give it a wiff of easy start and away you go. Don't give it easy start before spinning the engine and don't give it too much. Better to do this than blow the starter.
Brilliant video mate, can't wait to watch the rest in the series. I just bought a MF35 in rough condition. Got it for a good price at least where I live. Hope I can clean her up and get her running well again. The serial number plate is gone so unsure of the age but it's also a 4 cyl diesel so hope I can follow along with your videos.
Great to see that you have a MF-35, what does the mark say on the engine block ? That typical tells you what type it is (23).... Maybe you can post some video's on it for us to enjoy
@@D3Sshooter I'll actually be picking up the tractor in a week so I'll have to check the engine block mark on it. So excited to pick it up and clean her up. One of the previous owners cut a chunk of the top panel out by the air intake so I'm not sure what I'll do about that. And all the other panels have bad cracking and dents. For now though I'll just be focusing on getting her running true again and then if I'm able to do that I'll be able to justify spending a bit of money on getting the tractor looking nice too. I'm definitely going to make some videos about the tractor! :)
@@D3Sshooter Hey again, picked up my tractor at the end of last week! I was wondering if you could help identify what type it is? I made a quick video of her but I understand if you don't have the time to check it out.
@@GraniteValleyDave , I had a look at your video and its indeed the 23C , exactly the same as mine... I would expect it to be 1954-1959 and it has the four cylinder diesel motor with CAV pump. The air filter is modified and not original. Those motors are a pain in the B to get started when cold. The problem I had was the cylinder heads are no longer available. The motor itself was build by leyland in the UK.
As far as I know there are 3 cylinder and 4 cylinder MF35's so watch out since it depends on availability of spare parts. But cast iron can be welded if you find the right welder. You shall use imperial measurement tools, not metric tools - it's not an 11 for the tubing, it's actually a 7/16 - but an 11 is fine in that case. Removing a head isn't as sensitive as mounting it, especially cast iron heads are quite forgiving.
I thoughts the 35 and 135s had a 3 cyl perkins and the 4 cyl was the continental gas? Also there's a lot of yellow paint coming through on the engine and trans housing, possibly not even a 35, but maybe an industrial machine? Or a mut?
I think it s 35 MF , as we several like this one around in Belgium , and old so I don't think its a mut. As far as I know its the 23C engine ( marked in the cast) , build by leyland. as for the paint, it had grey, silver, yellow, red on it .. I guess the farmers who had it painted it several times. Txs for commenting
I have a 23c and a 3cyl perkins. My 23c always starts easily thankfully however the clutch has now gone. I would love to restore it and replace the clutch and rear main seal. Please let me know if you have video or plans to split the chassis and replace a clutch. Great video!! Thanks for uploading
fox hunter txs hunter and i have no video yet on splitting. That is not that difficult, but you must support both ends . One with a rolling support. That should be the front. Good luck.
those little antifreeze caps are called freeze plugs. what they do is if you put water into the engine ant that water froze then the freeze plug would pop and hopefully prevent the engine from damage.
Txs, that is also what `i was told long time ago. now it seems that those are holes needed during the casting . With the side effect of what you described, although never intended for it
Quite a bit older eh? I was in first grade when she was spanking new. I like your thoughts on fixing her as she runs so well. With new components she will be handy for another 70 years. Can't say those turf tires are worth a hoot. If you flush her and put a bit of diesel to flush the oil pan and put antifreeze in her she won't rot away inside.
Great video's have you got an photos of the wiring, My 1957 4 cylinder wont start at all and I know it runs via bump start after inspecting the wiring I think it all needs replacing, So am looking for photos on the wiring to see how and where its all connected, like the starter ground
D3Sshooter Ok great shall i send it here ? not sure about that :) I'm quite stuck on the wiring gonna have to do it all again it seems and I'm quite crap with wiring so I idiot proof diagram is best LOL for me
Hi I'm in South Africa someone is selling this type of tractor at cheaper price so i'm interested on it but i need to know if i can fit perkin 152 3cyl engine for mf 153
Were the MF35:s really made in 1952? I thought their manufacturing started somewhere at the end of the TE-20 series production, somewhere around 1955-56?
So I have a 1960 Triumph TR3 sports car and for years I was told that the engine in that car was based on the Massey Ferguson tractor engine. From this video I can see the lineage. Quite a few parts are similar including the block, starter motor and even the valve rockers. Now I know this is a diesel engine and the Triumph was a gas engine but still I always thought this was a myth!
So nice to see the takedown. Great video! (Are you sure it's a '52 though? I thought the 35 only came out in '55 as a Ferguson model until 57 or so when they finally became known as a Massey Ferguson 35. And the X came out later still (60s?) IIRC. )
Our first modern tractor was a Ferguson, (not Massey). But it was grey in colour and ran with gasoline (petrol for the brits), rather than diesel. These differences suggest to me that it was a few years older. Actually my understanding is that Ford made a perfect copy under their name. And the not so modern tractor? It was an Oliver. I think few people have even heard about that.
@@evanpenny348 Yes, I failed to mention that detail, but indeed it ran with what was called Motor Petrol (to differentiate from Lamp Oil or Lighting Petrol). I never checked the actual differences between those two. But to start, it needed ordinary "gas". To make the next start also possible, at the end of each use you had to run a minute or so also with the gas - to fill the carburetor with the easier substance.
So sad that the engine was allowed to freeze and crack. This is so completely preventable; and there is no excuse for allowing this to happen to a good machine. People are so foolish. It sure sounds nice, in spite of the damaged head. I'm planning to watch the rest of your videos on this but this is my first one. Forgive me if you halve already answered this question - Have you considered using a pneumatic impact wrench to remove the very tight parts (cylinder head bolts)?
Ah so it was because of water freezing. Shoulda figured I don't think I'm ever going to own a tractor.. Best I currently can do is an air cooled moped with some oil that's never gonna freeze with the weather we have here
Den første FE35 med 23C motor kom i 1956 og MF blev dannet i 1958, så det kan IKKE være en '52 er. Den blev lavet med 23C motor fra 1956 - 59 derefter med 3.152 Perkins.
Not from 1952. The first Ferguson 35 Grey Gold model was not introduced until 1956. And the Massey Ferguson Red Grey model was introduced in 1958. That was after Massey Harris bought Ferguson. Check Wikipedia.
The signs tell us that this is a 1959 model. You have the 4 heater plugs in the head. That was introduced in 1959. Before that there was an Thermostart type of heater plug in the intake manifold.
I sold my 4cylinder 35 1959 tractor because despite a rebuild it still was a terrible starter. Mine was a diesel though. I’d have to swap out those wheels.
D3Sshooter yes I realised that yours was a diesel further in. It looks to have had glow plugs added to the head? Mine had just the one in the inlet manifold. I confused the flow plugs with spark plugs at first. Only watch on my phone so small screen.
The one I have is dynamo, and some have it replaced with and alternator. Both are power generators, but differend, the Dynamo provides DC current, where as the Alternator provides AC curret which is rectified to DC.
@@D3Sshooter in America we call it a generator. Older cars, trucks, tractors and such tend to have generators "DC" . While newer stuff have alternators "AC". Are there any benefits of using a alternator instead of a generator? The only thing I can think of is consistent power. A alternator has a bridge rectifier and voltage regulator. I'm not sure How the generator regulates the voltage and if it is consistent through the RPM range.
Actually those plugs are not there to prevent freeze damage. They are there to plug the holes left to get the sand out of the casting at the foundry. Never understood why they are called freeze plugs.
Yep, that is something I was told now a few times. in Flemish they are called Vriesplaatje, or Forst plate.... I guess that its a side effect and that they do work to some extend during icing by popping out ( As i found on this tractor) ...Agreed that the main purpose must have been for casting, with a side effect ... maybe... anyhow, fact is that they need replacing sometimes.... Txs for the comment
@ Keith K, No there not. (really! ) they might pop out by freezing, But they are not inteded for that, Y know lots of engines cracked by frost where all the so called freeze plates where still in!, The holes in the block are there to rinse out the sand after casting... There commonly called freeze plugs, but they really are not.
ofcause it is a MF 35 they was sold around here (Denmark) the first had a 4 cyl perkins that would never start when temperature was below 45 degC in a shaddow those are werry rear . They did however replace the 4 cyl vith a 3 cyl perkins, the one that are wiedly ysed all over because of reliability and quality
My grandmother had small farm in Kentucky she a MF 135 it was diesel I was told was first of the diesels years no matter how cold it was if she wood turn over two times she wood fire straight up no joke I wood pull wagon with hay to feed granny's Angus cows n winter once a day with the hay we bailed that summer two times all with that one tractor never not one time do I remember it not running n working but the hay bailer was another story!!!
Cannot place where this is filmed, what country, that is. The English spoken does not appear to be from North America, but I could be wrong there. PRices in Euros leads me to believe that it is filmed there.
Plug has nothing to do with frost, at least by design. That's a myth that's been perpetuated over the years. Those are casting plugs used to make the block manufacture easier. The fact that they (sometimes) relieve freezing pressure is purely a side effect and not part of the original engineering. If they were truly anti frost your block either wouldn't be cracked or the engineers would have to admit a huge design flaw. Rant over.....
Good points, its so funny that we call it that Frost Plates... its indeed a side effect. And I am sure on this MF , that if there would not have been there , there would have been a crack as they have been popped out.... But again as you stated , a side effect, never engineered for it... TXS for pointing it out
John Baugh you are absolutely spot on. They are technically called core plugs and allowed the removal of the sand that was formed into shaped cores to give hollow cavities in the casting. After casting the sand cores are vibrated and washed out of the block and the round access hole has the metal disc pressed in to seal the void. They have nothing to do with preventing freezing damage,they are not a designed weak point. A frozen block can crack without any of the core plugs being unseated. It really is a mistake to think they provide any real form of protection. Either drain the block or use an additive to lower the freezing temperature of the coolant. In Scotland in the winter the coolant was drained into a bucket and kept warm to prevent freezing. Was a quick job to do,simply open the tap. Freezing damage to an engine would be viewed as operator negligence and he would be in big trouble! Pretty simple way to prevent very expensive damage?
I would beg to differ on the point of sand removal. There is plenty of area around the water jacket, deck for that. Those holes are alignment/ locating holes to hold the cores in place.
Yes, I could but wanted to test another method. Lets see hw long it will last, Now over 40 working hours and still going without leaks on the fixed area's
