Can i ask what you use at the lower ends to keep the glass in. I see that its slid into the groove in the rafter, but wondering what stops it sliding out. Also, do you put any rubber or mastics etc around the glass?
Hi @martyncane - I seal all the glass surrounds with silicone sealant - Soudal Silirub LMN - and I make clips out of aluminium to hold the roof glass in place. Thanks for your interest.
+Biofado Thank you. I was very pleased with it - and, more importantly perhaps, were my customers. Thankfully I don't have to do them that big very often though.
Excellent build sir, the valley interests me as I am doing an internal l shaped greenhouse , I make grooves for the glass as do you but when you get to the valley section you cannot slide the glass in place so I presume you cap the rafters as apposed to grooving them, I also noticed the valley glass was pretty tight together amd I see no lead in the valley is that because you have painted instead?
Thank you. I line the valleys first, sometimes in lead but usually Epdm, then work my way into the valley by glazing as normal and then coming out the other side. Impossible to reach all parts of the valley after the glazing is in.
Thank you. Add a layer of mortar to the top of the wall when you finish and tap down with mallet to make sure it's level all around. After a week or two, once the mortar is hard, drill through and use hammer screw fixings to screw the timber wallplates into the wall below.
You could but I don't. The damp proof course protects bricks from damp rising up through the ground. If you add a dpc to a single skin wall you weaken it - the bricks above won't bond to those below. This is fine if it's a heavy double skin wall as in housing. Instead I come out of the ground with class b engineering bricks - they don't absorb water much and act as a dpc protecting the bricks above from damp and frost damage. No need to add one under the wallplates as they are way above ground and if you route in a drip edge to the underside of your wallplates the water won't get to the bricks - it will drip clear of the walls. However, that's just what I do. Hope it's useful.
Thanks again Robin. Your method makes a lot of sense.I am working on a small project to construct a little greenhouse with some old hardwood windows, a timber frame on block plinth (not pro like yours....maybe one day). I hadn't known that engineering bricks could be used like a DPC. That is very neat. Thanks again :)
