I WILL FOREVER JOKE ABOUT IT BEING "HEAD HIGH" from now on 😆 I'm still so baffled that what we looked and, and what we paddled out into, were the same place haha. Just goes to show how BIG it was everywhere else in comparison i guess ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Brett. I comment from time to time on your videos, as they are first class, and always puts a smile on my face. I grew up spending summers in Nags Head, Duck, Corolla, for a little over 3p years. Ever since I was a little kid, I have always wanted to go down to cape point on Hatteras. It’s like, if you look at a map of the east coast of the United States for a few seconds and point to a spot, there’s a good chance your finger lands on that peculiar looking point in the middle of that long, thin, bow of land off of mainland North Carolina. Water to the North, East, South, and a lagoon to the West so large that you cannot see the mainland, shifting sands and violent storms, powered by the unimaginable power of the Gulf Stream, give and take from the landscape seemingly in the blink of an eye. Its unique to the extent that some species of flora have adapted with their own unique characteristics that distinguish them from others of the same species found elsewhere. My wife and I made our way down to Corolla for a family vacation this past July, and, of course, I rambled about the natural beauty, and uniqueness, and the different places to see. My wife is from Brazil, so she can be a little critical on the subject of beach quality. I once again told her that I really want to make it down to the cape, and after all these years I never have. Later in the week we packed a few thing and made the drive down from Corolla-quicker than I thought we would. My wife was blown away by the stories of continuous tug-of-war between the sea reclaiming land, new inlets created from storms, new islands exposed, only to later be taken back by the sea. As we drove over the New Bridge in Rodanthe, I explained that the bridge was build not too long ago, the result of being decimated by hurricanes Irene and Sandy. We turned onto that long, narrow, winding paved road of highway 12, with the sand blowing across the surface in the wind, and lined with live oaks, brush, and salt marsh. It looked so wild and unblemished. We parked the car in the lot, held our flip flops and hiked up that dunes, and we were both moved taking it all in. Equal parts power and beauty, the water from a distance was a shade of turquoise that I’d have expected in the Maldives, not in North Carolina. At waste high the water was crystal clear, clean, and 86 degrees. The sand bars in site were soft powder, while closer to shore, lines of the most wild array of shells, some of which, presumably pushed along from equatorial waters by the Gulf Stream. In the distance the breakers curled, the water white capped, slowly curling blue green, surfers here and there, but so much space, so vast as the beach curves out to the point, where, in the distance, you could see the currents from north to south colliding with such force . There were people checkered in small groups as far as I could see, but when I closed my eyes I could only hear the sound of the ocean, sandpipers and gulls, the smell of the salty clean air, the hot sun beating down on my skin. I imaged this place to be as close to what the first Europeans might have seen when their boats first anchored nearby. I never thought it would be this mejestic, or leave such a powerful feeling inside me. My wife and I both agreed, that place is truly paradise. I hope it never changes. ***Wow! Sorry for the ramble. You are truly very lucky to have such a place in your back yard?
LOL Brett, due to the inconsistent nature of surf on the East Coast (we have some looooooooooooong summers), will it work the other way too? Real Wave Size=6 inches Stated Wave Size=Head High It's always Head High on the East Coast.😉🤙 My brother and I used to cross from VA to vacation and bodyboard Nags Head as groms in the early 80's. Graduated to Hatteras in the late 80's-mid 90's. Started at the Lighthouse which was right by the shore then, unbelievable move. The Lighthouse was firing on all cylinders then. Three well defined sections, launch pad right beside (feet away) from the first groin, freght train barrel second section (get spit out there or), on the best days a long often unmakable inside section. Sometimes the swell would hit it just right and shrink as it went down the line of that inside section and barrel right to the sand, less than a handful of those on the best days. I got one on a four foot overhead to occasional double overhead as perfect as it gets blue water day and was deeply barreled through entire middle section, didn't come out, barreled through the inside, got to the end and my head popped out as the end collapsed on my body. It was two feet high at that point and I washed right up on shore. I went a long way in the barrel. Later, had to get a 4×4 as it was legal to drive on most of the beach then, from first ramp after Rodanthe to Avon and more on the beach. There was much more beach. Three big natural dune lines at Pea Island, couldn't drive there. Caught waves at the boilers and marked good bars with sticks in the sand at Pea Island. On the right swell angle gotta stop and check the sticks. Those dunes have been gone for decades now. No outer bars made for better chances of larger high-quality surf. Bigger than Head High haha. It became more fickle as those dunes and all that sand was deposited offshore. There's still some good days as your videos show, but not as consistent, especially as the swell gets bigger. I took a break from the beach, went to college, graduated and moved to the Virginia Beach oceanfront. I bought the first of several boards and learned to stand up. Boards shrunk over time. A life dedicated to the ocean leads to some amazing experiences. Stay Stoked YEEEEEUWWW!
Brett... I came up with huge surfing innovation recently - this one isn't patentable really - I'll tell you why later - or at least I don't care about the patent on this one. It is revolutionary though and you could use it very soon. Will change the way we surf. I just need to hear some voices. Some excitement. Does anyone like surfing anymore?
Your right Brett it’s not the same as what it used to be the especially the point and south side but we had some good up in kitty hawk we thought about going down to buxton but decided not to we need to build permanent sand bars or reefs that would be awesome if it could be done
It was sick in Jersey. I had close to double over head and grinding. Definitely way better then what you had to deal with. I get the sand thing cause it's terrible here 😂. It changes every other day. Recently has been nuts in more spots then usual. I'm waiting on a bomb north swell for the South end of LBI
@@johnpusser well not that im scared just not ready for it you need to have the water time when ot gets like that. something i never had ,,,work distance to the beach work etc etc.... It's like having rounds in when it comes to fighting you could be great at a 3 or 6 rd fight but you will get the F knocked out if you aint prepared for 12 makes sense???
Not totally true… but when it’s massive you’re only going to get one ride cycle to get a shot at the biggest waves. Opportunity to catch a 15’ face barrel here is very rare… so yes, those moments are fleeting. But a day of 6’-8’ surf that lasts dawn to dusk isn’t wild.
@@jonahhex9620I surf reef road all the time the mass of swells only happened once every like 5-8 use but the small ones like 10 feet come probably once a year this season we’ve had two massive swells was fitting barrels. It’s been crazy but I mean we don’t really get that many swells and even if we do the conditions are always just chop.
Gotta give it to these guys...those are powerful waves and crazy undertows ..on top of that their level of surfing is massive on talent..the speed , brass nads , etc...I'd put this crew against the locals at pipeline any day of the week...and when they're done fighting they can duke it out surfing.
@brettbarley Brett you got some really good waves. Us average surfers they would be a wave of a life time. Surfing sometimes carries way too much expectations. In think the balance is being thankful for being out there, enjoying the gift God has given us to enjoy and having bodies with which we are able to do it. Keep charging 🤙👑
You mentioned the island going through transformation. I'm sure the Gulf stream meandering closer and further away from outer banks has huge impact on how the swells meet the shore , counter eddys of current moving south , sand bar build up etc . If you can understand where the Gulf stream is geographically , I'm sure it factors the conditions quite a bit . Open to criticism .
"sandbars use to be better" "sandbars have their seasons" its funny to hear that, since sandbars are such a fleeting thing on a day to day basis, dare i say minute to minute? The swell is coming at this angle, it should be good here. But on the east coast its all sand and it seems surf spots aren't just dependent on the swell itself, the stars have to align. Having to chase, find the diamond in the rough amongst the dunes. yknow that should be the title of a surf movie: Diamond in the rough. Idk where i was going with this but there's a lot to unpack in those two statements. sand stuff
Brett, I enjoyed your video. You have to have wave knowledge at the Outer Banks in order to surf their with excellence. You've got it! It was great to hear your closing remarks about Christmas. God bless you!! 🙏
Coño Brett and Boyz Scored Big time.. what's dat location by KOA nags head??I scored dat place back in that day in Sept 98 no wetsuit.. Greeting from Boriken we are waiting for u guys.. Nice message at end God Bless OBX fam..laters
Do you all locally attribute the sand bar decline to all the sand dumping (aka “beach renourishment”)? I am 50 and have been surfing C FL since a teen. We definitely see all the sand dumping f’ing up the breaks here (and the beach diving south of the inlet). Great channel and vids 🤙
Wow...Somethings been going on. Thats the hottest Outer Banks I've ever seen with ice. 20 ft. New Jersey and I'm wondering if its the same system. Dec.18 proved to be a conquest for a few. Love the vid. Looks like the 15 yr. storm. Admire Bretts surf, front foot more forward, even hands forward. A faster ride. Great show!
I remember surf much like that on Labor Day 1979, a hurricane 500 miles away. Beautiful, glassy, warm, blue sky! I went out on the south side and it was probably the biggest surf I was ever out in - compared to my local spots in SC, Folly Beach and IOP. Decided to go out on the point later, it was breaking so far out. Got pitched off of one at takeoff, just ripped my leash and board right off. That was a long swim in!
Bout time you started riding thr Maurice Coles. All my boards are MC customs and the last few with XTR foam and now doing the carbon wraps. I combined the Shiva with the veecon and its the best riding most durable board ive ever had. Extra money but its a tank yet still able to throw it around like a rag doll. Promote Maurice, he deserves it!
Great vids man! You guys scored on a tough day. Would LOVE to see the paddle out on days like this; and I can guarantee other people would too. Keep it up man! Great stuff.
Merry Christmas Brett!! Hope you feel better. Glad to see you back in action even though the waves weren't breaking as well as they should because of the sandbar situation.
this swell being recent and the way Brett breaks it down is what I'm here for ... like hanging on the pier after a swell and trading stories. I like it!
@@brettbarley the best board for make really accurate videos.. my quiever only has 1 board, a catchsurf 5.0 chippa wilson 😅. Merry Christmas Brett from Sardinia
Gotta love the way Brett describes the quality of the surf. Not overclaiming it. Although it's much better than where i'm at on the gulf. Keep up the good vids bro.
Feel the pain with the sandbars changing. One of our most legendary spots that use to handle everything and anything no longer bas a wave enough at chest high
Ya which is exactly why I said in the video “again… on the face of the wave. Cause this is the east coast and we measure the portion of the wave you ride.” Also you spelt Haole wrong 🫠
@@brettbarley well thanks for the correction , I guess east coast wave height is then dependent of how low your bottom turns are….😂. Santa Cruz coast is my home break(s) and there are hidden spots where it breaks 3 feet on a completely flat ocean. Big days are cold a mean and loud as hell, mavericks being the best known of such. We have some great spots where it breaks on the point of a small bay/cove and a super strong rip just naturally carried you out to the take off point again, such as Scott’s creek. It is pretty sharky out here and in October all the white sharks in the pacific stop by for elephant seal meals. After being hit in Oct. 1999, I just don’t go out that month. That shark data comes from a 3-4 year tagging study that really told the story of great white territory. 🤙