Great video, I was looking up info on this boat. I am a marine tech, I will be working on this next week. Some info I have for you. Regarding your vacuum setup for oil extraction. If you seal your connections it will be more efficient and quicker as a result. I used adhesive lined heat shrink on my hose connections for the engine oil hoses. The ones that go into each other. Your elbow on the unit you use for the transmission should be sealed with teflon tape. You can see the air in the line, all that will disappear and be pure suction. Next there is no need to run up the engine except for when you drain your oil from the engine. It’s easier to extract when hot. But for coolant purposes it does not do anything. Also there is no need to drain water from the engine. When you run your pink antifreeze through the system all of that gets flushed out and what ever is left will be antifreeze. Another thing with the coolant system, instead of hooking up the leg underneath just run that hose into the bucket like you did for the antifreeze flush. Run the garden hose into the bucket. Might be something to check out. I have not tried it, not sure if it would keep up or not. Then you don’t have to worry about it falling off and possible damaging the impeller. One thing I am still trying to find info on is the oil type. If you scan the code at the back of the boat that will tell you to use 5w30 penzoil synthetic but the manual says Rotella T4 15w40. This is for the inboard 5.7L 500. If I find something with the ballast system I will let you know. Thanks for the video, you gave me a good rundown of the system.
Great advice. But I have a question in return. If the thermostat doesn’t open won’t it restrict the flow of antifreeze into the block. Besides the pin hole in the thermostat? I drain the water out of the block for this reason. If the thermostat doesn’t open then you will not circulate water through the whole engine. By draining the water it is added security that if this were to happen you’re motor still won’t freeze. For me I like working on my boat so the little extra time it takes for me to drain the block is worth the peace of mind. Thanks for the input and let me what you think about my concern with the thermostat. I will be putting out some more maintenance videos on the boat and would love to hear your comments. Soon I will be doing an engine alignment and the impeller. Thanks again.
@@dadfoolery6927 Your thermostat is in a closed loop circulation. That system will never freeze it’s all antifreeze in there. Your engine has 2 water cooling systems. One is closed and runs on antifreeze like a normal vehicle engine. The other is an open system that pulls water from the lake or ocean. This goes to a heat exchanger and through your manifolds then out the boat. These 2 systems never mix. Those plugs are for a different method for winterizing. I dont know about that method but running pink antifreeze through the system that only uses water is better in my opinion because it will run through that whole system and flush out all water that may freeze. Adding fuel stabilizer and heating it up for oil removal would be your only step for running it up hot.
My nxt 20 is an open system there is no antifreeze like a car it is strictly cooled from lake water. I do believe there is a closed system option or a saltwater option. To my knowledge most of the boats master craft puts out do not come with this option. However I do wish I had it and anyone ordering their boat should seriously think about getting this option.
Very good video- great job. It is important to note that the ZF manual states you should replace filter when changing transmission oil - doesn't sound like you can "clean" and reuse it.
@@dadfoolery6927 I just completed my first winterization of my NXT22 using your video. I will be replacing my impeller this coming spring. Thanks again for the GREAT TUTORIAL!!!
I found a K&N Oil Filter that has a HEX bolt on the top of it which I find really easy to remove in case it's over tightened. The part number is HP-2010. Additionally, you can use a WIX 1372 Napa Gold filter instead of the Ilmor MV8V-1021.
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to share this process. I have a 2017 NXT20 and I haven't been brave enough to tackle the winterization on my own yet.
@@dadfoolery6927 thanks again for your winterizing video. I’m about to tackle this for the first time next week. Did you say you also have a de-winterizing video for the spring to put the boat back in the water as well as an impeller change video you’re going to post?
Thanks for doing this video. It is very helpful and you did a great job on it. I have the same transmission in my 2016 X20. My manual suggests ATF by Valvoline, Pennzoil or few others. I had heard or read that engine oil, like the Rotella you are using helps the transmission run a little cooler. Is that why you use it instead of ATF?
Yes I have a video on changing the impeller but I have not edited yet. I have more content coming but the kids sports and work have been insane. Thanks for watching.
What transfer pump is that and where did you purchase? I assume you bought the transfer pump separately and made the set up with a 5 gallon bucket on your own? Or did you buy the set up complete?
I see some are recommending draining the antifreeze back out after pumping it in to ensure it won't freeze. Thoughts? I left mine in this year as you did in the video but it rarely gets below the 20s where I live.
I would leave it in for the anti corrosion properties. If it got down to subzero temperature all the time I would probably drain it back out. I live in the mid west and keep it in a garage so I am not overly concerned with subzero temps. Temperature in the 20s I would leave it in. I always use the better antifreeze as well. Just pice of mind.
Great video! I am thinking of doing my own this year instead of the dealer doing it. The quote from them includes winterizing the heater..is this necessary, an if so, something I can do too?
Yes it is necessary to winterize your heater too. If you have a shower you want to make sure you winterize that as well. It is something that you can do your self. What kind of boat and year do you have? It may be as simple as draining your heat exchanger and running the heater when you’re putting the antifreeze in the motor. Do you live in the Midwest?
Great video, really informative. Any idea where I would get the ballast hose connectors for a Moomba Mojo once bags are removed? Also, does anyone have info on winterizing a heater?
I would try a dealer for the connections. There should be a drain for the heater lines. Then maybe blow them out with compressed air. Then when you run antifreeze through the motor make sure the heat is on and it should circulate.
Good Stuff... I have been looking for a trans oil and filter video! have you found a quick and easy way to get the oil drain line out the transon hole? Always takes me 10-15 mins to fish it through. I feed a pc of stiff wire in there to try and pull it out.
You have given me something to think about. I usually just stand on my head and push it through. I am going to see if I can come up with something. Thanks
If I’m not mistaking, you pulled both of the block drain plugs (one on each side), both of the hoses that are connected to the 90° fittings and the little bolt attached to the big hose that is connected to the tranny? Thank you so much for your video.
Great video! Could you get away without draining the engine? It looks like the intake pump would just flush the water out and fill engine with antifreeze anyway.
Maybe but it’s not worth the risk to me. If your motor doesn’t get hot enough to open the thermostat you might not replace the water with antifreeze. If you drain it you will at least have the water out.
Kinda random but I’m trying to get some info. I think I have the same boat and engine and I think I have low oil pressure at idle. Is there anyway you could tell what your oil pressure is at idle after it’s been running for a while. Mine seems to drop down pretty far after I’ve been running it a while.
@@dadfoolery6927 thanks a lot. I appreciate it!!! Mine has been idling around 20 after I’ve been running it a while, but I noticed after I made a 4-5 min run going almost wide open it dropped down to 12psi right after I came off the throttle
Great video. Thanks for the effort you put into that. One suggestion on the oil filter is when you start draining the oil poke a hole in the top of it to release the suction. Same principle is unscrewing it but I usually let it drain overnight and there’s never any oil in the filter. I haven’t tackled the impeller yet. What puller are you going to use?
I like your idea on poking the hole in the filter. Makes sense. For my impeller I just pulled it out with a pliers. Getting it out was not as bad as getting the new one back in. I used a zip tie to hold the ears over and pushed it in. It did take a little bit to get it fully seated. I am working on a better way for this spring when I replace it. I will post it here when I change it. Thanks for watching and sharing your Ideas.
Take a look in your owner’s manual. It will give you all the steps needed. The motor and trans should be very similar maybe just a few different drain plugs. Your ballast system might be different but it will tell you in the manual. If you have a boat heater you will have to do that too. Thanks
I noticed that a lot of people are not fogging their engine either through the intake or through the plugs. Is this a step that no longer needs to be taken? Back when I had my I/O it was something that was always done? Thank you
I keep my boat in my garage so there is not huge temp swings. If I was going to keep it out side I would definitely look into fogging it through the plugs. I will see if I can find anything out about it. Great question.
I had the pump and I just mounted it on a bucket. I modeled it from one that I found online for sale. That being said there are a lot of different kinds for sale online. Even Harbor freight has some that can be modified with some fittings from your local hardware store.
I can't get my pumps to get anything out when on trailer. You should consider riding back to dock off plane and kick the pumps back on. You will be shocked how much longer they drain. Once they stop then cruising speed.
+1 on this. My ‘15 NXT doesn’t have plug and play ballast, and 90 degree connections inside the boat. I tried 3 different funnels, clear tube siphon’s, and ended up dumping antifreeze all over the side of the boat and myself. The fix I made was using an old pump sprayer with a thin flexible hose. Cut off the sprayer part, took out the straw that draws water from the bottom of the sprayer, and Flipped it upside down and pumped the bottle after feeding that small tube in those vents. Worked well, but couldn’t get my AF pumping back out of the rear port and starboard pumps. I ended up driving over to the boat ramp and backing it down towards the water and hit the fill/drain and the AF spit right out. Hope that helps someone else! Great video
Is your impeller good? Is the water system primed? Try to stick the garden hose in the pick up hose and make sure you can see it going through the strainer and out the back.
