Mastering the JFJ Easy Pro: The Ultimate Guide! No more melted disks! 

Thank you 👍

No problem friend!!

You’re welcome my friend!!! 👍👍

It would definitely be worth it 👍

Thank you for watching!

Hey no problem friend, i’m really glad it helped! The sandpaper is not that important but definitely the water! By the way if you ever have trouble with the disk reading after you polish them wash them off with some soap because the Maguires sometimes tends to leave a bit of a film. Have a great day!

They are in stock right now on ebay, check the link in the description or go here www.ebay.com/itm/134655070141?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bqlgDs_2Rxm&sssrc=2051273&ssuid=bqlgDs_2Rxm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I get supplies wherever I can really, Harbor freight carries them but they’re fairly expensive AutoZone usually carries McGuires

Thanks for your comment! I hope it works out for you 👍

No problem Thank you very much!

In this case, I’m really just using the grit from Maguires polish. The wax itself seems to embed some of the grit into the scratches and cause issues with the laser. So I’m not quite using it properly like you would with a car 👍

I sell them on ebay www.ebay.com/itm/135050878715?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bqlgDs_2Rxm&sssrc=2051273&ssuid=bqlgDs_2Rxm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Yep 👍

Yes i will have then in stock again soon!

@@JohnnyNJones WOOT. One of the few videos online I've watched where I followed the steps and it turned out significantly better than anything anywhere else

@@scottgeorgson7481 Thank you very much my friend 👍 I’m happy I’m able to help! It’s a finicky machine that took a while to figure out. I appreciate it!

Yeah, you definitely need a 1200 grit. It gets rid of the swirl marks. In fact, the more times you do the 600 grit (within reason) the easier it’ll be to polish with the 1200

@@JohnnyNJones Okay, thank you. I will try out the 1200 and hopefully be smooth sailing with the rest of my discs

@@Ninjasneekman yeah it’s gonna help a lot!

I’m working on it, but it appears that you can also just trim the ones that I have for sale to get the same benefit. However, if I happen to run in to any that I can supply, I will certainly do it.

I will have more pads in this week 👍👍

I recall that there may be some difficulty with certain kinds of plastics. I know this applied to the PlayStation one games but I’m not sure if it applies to the blue PlayStation 2 games Make sure to check for debris on the sandpaper. Often times if you’re using Maguires compound, it will dry and drop down on the sandpaper and cause circular scratches. You may have to spend more time using the pads. I have played many Xbox games in which I’ve only used sandpaper without the buffing stage.. So it’s not necessary for them to look perfectly pristine, but I’m sure aesthetically it’s something you want. I would try stepping the sandpaper up to maybe 1500 grit. It may benefit a harder plastic. With the harder plastic, the polishing pads can’t do as much work on getting that shiny surface. So you’ll have to increase the sandpaper grit. (that is, of course if this is a plastic issue)

Unfortunately, I ran out of inventory, but there should be some more in stock soon! They go very quickly 👍

Yes, I am still selling them. I just ended up running out of stock, I will have more in a few days!

Not in this case no, the game was fully playable. That occasionally will happen though! The best way to tell if a disk will fully work is to install it to your xbox by pressing the x button on your console when you are on the “play game” option after putting in a disc If there’s not enough information on how to do that in this comment there are plenty of guides online that can help you. If the game does not fully install then you want to continue polishing it Usually what happens when I notice something not installing is a deeper scratch or not enough of the buffing stage so I start with the light sandpaper again then polish it once again and usually that works fine

That tends to be the case when it’s fresh sandpaper, I usually soak it with water, run it for 10 seconds and repeat the process 3 times. That usually takes care of the deeper scratches, also make sure to keep the sandpaper wiped clean and free from any larger pieces of dust and debris that may cause deeper scratches Once it wears down a bit it’ll work great for you. Personally I just have an orange pad that I use that is a little bit more abrasive than the white one and it takes care of the deeper scratches that come from a fresh piece of sandpaper but I only have to use it once or twice until the pad is wore out enough to use the white pad alone You can also use it several times on a blank disk if you want to hurry the process up. Don’t worry, it’s a bit of a learning curve, spray (soak it) the sandpaper in water and run on the disk a few times to wear it down 👍 Then let me know how well it works for you. I’ll be here for support 😃

How old is your machine? Mine started having this issue when the Velcro that holds the pads down wore out, it was caused by the pad shifting under the disc while it was spinning. I replaced the velcro and no more swirls.

@@tbroschat81 thanks for that advice 👍

Sometimes it looks absolutely brand new and by adding enough water you can usually get it to that point. Sometimes it has some lights swirling, but it doesn’t affect the readability of the disk. It plays just fine.

@@JohnnyNJones Awesome

@@Ayasedere yes! But they have specific plates and pads for GameCube discs

@@JohnnyNJones got those but was struggling to get a copy of Paper Mario to work. I’m probably gonna send that particular disc to someone with a high end resurfacer due to how different GameCube discs are made. Gonna use this video for the rest of my disc in my collection. Thanks for the video and quick response! Definitely earned a sub!

Yep! Should have them very very soon!

That is one that I have not been able to track down yet despite my best efforts. But if I happen to finally figure out how to get those, I will certainly let everyone know.

@@JohnnyNJones also do you recommend the white pads or the orange pads will work just as good?

@@corymillen9824 I recommend the orange pads because they have a bit more bite to them and work really well at removing scratches without sandpaper. All I sell are orange pads at this point. Course I just ran out of stock. People buy them up so quickly. It’s hard to keep them in stock.

Maguires is the brand that makes plastx 👍 I only use that for the final polish. As it doesn’t have any grit to it, so it won’t help with the buffing. By all means you can use for the polishing stage for sure 👍

I should have some in the next week 👍 But they may be the same pads that you used. Were the scratches there before you used the pads? If so, you may have some debris on the sandpaper that’s leaving deeper scratches I had that problem many times. A great way of testing that is to take a blank CD R that’s perfectly unblemished and run your polishing pad on it If there’s no scratches afterwards, then it’s most likely your sandpaper, leaving deeper scratches either from a crinkle or some debris from a previous disk

@@JohnnyNJones Hello once again Mr Jones, I have followed this video to a tee multiple times now and have fixed a handful of games, however like the comment here, I'm thinking the sandpaper debris might have scratched up another disc I resurfaced (didn't wipe it off when I gave it another 10) The disc is a PS2 game and the scratches don't look TOO deep, but the Ps2 won't read it(it tries to for a good long while, then it says cannot read disc) Would this be salvageable or should I cut my losses and buy a new disc?

@@mr.b9613 if the scratches don’t look that deep, then you’re most likely dealing with a dead disk. Every once in a while when you’re ordering scratched games or buying them from whatever source you’re getting them from , go ahead and try them on the console before you try to fix them. You’ll be surprised how many of them start up and run without too many problems. The reason I suggest this is because it gives your brain an idea of the difference between a disk that’s too scratched and what is completely ruined. Minor scratches hell even heavy ones can still be read through enough to get to the title screen most of the time. See the data is actually stored on the plastic and these tiny little bumps, the aluminum is only there to reflect the laser back at the sensor. So if something’s been resurfaced too much, it can actually just destroy the data on the plastic, or if you have a scratch, that’s so deep that it hits that data layer. And if you get a disk like that and try to resurface it to remove all the plastic down to that scratch itself then you’ll actually destroy the data on the rest of the disk that level as well. I know this is a long reply, but the only tips I can give you is to soak it in water And give it a rub down for a few seconds, this makes sure debris is not stuck in small scratches. Maguires can make discs unreadable, which is why I recommend using water with it because it leaves a film of wax. So give it a water bath and try it again if that doesn’t work it’s most likely just a dud my friend.

Yes, and use it to heat up a tuna fish sandwich ✌️

@@JohnnyNJones damn I dont like tuna

@@commodore1979 I feel your pain, stick with Philly steak and cheese 👍

Isn’t that one fairly expensive?

@@JohnnyNJones in the uk is about £100-150 cheaper

@@Callum-tm6xo Oh wow, over here the JFJ is 199 dollars.

@@JohnnyNJones like around £200 for eyecon and £400 for the pro

@@Callum-tm6xo Yeah man that’s different for sure, I hope the eyecon works well for you 👍

Yes, but that’s a really difficult process. you’d have to a layer of aluminum and the Re coat the disk. Usually, something like that is only done if someone doesn’t wanna lose very valuable files

@@JohnnyNJones thanks as a computer technician people being me data recovery works and some time it's cd/dvd of wedding with scratch on one or two sides of the disc

@@amir2880 there’s also some really good data recovery programs out there that can help recover at least parts of the AVI files (or whatever particular format) Those might be useful to you as well, my friend

@@JohnnyNJones I use some good data recovery programs I'm trying now the Vaseline + one of them

I’ve tried finding riser pads for the sandpaper, and I’m still having trouble sourcing them. Unfortunately, you might have to order stuff from JJ when it comes to sandpaper rising pads but luckily they last for a long time. However, if I manage to figure out a way of getting the right pads for attaching sandpaper to, I will sell them

OK i fix them with a drill press instead of machine. Would a regular hard foam pad work with sandpaper glued on top?

@@pcm87 you know I thought about that myself. But I’ve never really tried it. I think you should give it a shot. 👍

Look up “jfj compatible pads” on ebay My listing will pop up under the account name johnnynathanieljones

Make sure the spindle that holds the disk isn’t warped or wobbling. That can happen if you leave the lid closed for a long time while there’s still a pad on the machine. it seems to put a wobble into the spindle by putting too much pressure on one side from the pressure of the pad. You should be able to tighten up that spring assembly Also make sure your sandpaper is in good condition, The disk may appear not to be polished evenly but it could also be the sandpaper isn’t level enough to remove deeper scratches on the outside. These deeper scratches won’t be visible until the disc is polished. Most likely it’s a spindle issue or you need new pads to keep constant pressure on the disk.

@@JohnnyNJones ok thanks, i'll have a look!.

Yep send me a message on ebay and ill hook you up 👍

That’s usually caused by the nut itself some people put a piece of felt there to keep the nut from scratching the disk But if you’re talking about the outer edge of the ring then yes that can happen just make sure you’re putting enough water because if you don’t put enough water sometimes you can get some melting happening where the particulates form together

@@JohnnyNJones Thank you for clarification. I had 5 discs resurfaced at a local retro game store. My games don't have deep scratches as you showed. More like surface ones from poor handling. I guess I would try hand polishing them or use a machine the way you did, but at home.

There is a fuse it’s a little yellow button on the front panel. There’s several online selling on eBay for 50 bucks you might be able to pick one up cheap.

@@JohnnyNJones Thanks man will look into it

@@MattRPD no problem 👍

@@JohnnyNJones Sorry mate, one last thing. I'm assuming the fuse you're talking about is inside the unit, and hopefully is a simple change like for like. I'm just hoping it's not the motor

@@MattRPD It’s actually on the outside of the machine on the front if I recall correctly. Looks like a little yellow round port. There is a fuse in there

I don’t know I’m going to think about it I feel like people would use the Bauer pads far too often. I haven’t been able to track down a generic pad that I can use with the sandpaper yet although I’m trying .

I sell the pads on ebay, right now I’m out of stock they sell really fast. But I should have some more in in a week or so.

I still use the same ones that came with the JFJ they hold up well. however they are not impossible to find. you can even use the polishing pads to hold the sandpaper if need be

@@JohnnyNJones What Thickness is the sanding Pads and is it a soft sponge foam? Thinking of using Interface Pads as in the UK there's not much adhesive sanding discs on the market.

@@grantdilworth9014 Sandpaper should do the trick 600 and 1200 grit I’ve never heard of interfacepads but if they’re slightly abrasive they might work. I think there’s something like an inch and a half thick but that’s just for the sponge itself the sandpaper goes on top

@@JohnnyNJones An interface pad is pretty much the sanding disc but it has the soft velcro one side and the hook velcro on the otherside. Reason I ask is I got a faulty JfJ which came with just the machine itself. Once repaired was going to get supplies and just researching for now. Trying to avoid spending $50 getting them shipped to the UK. 😅

@@grantdilworth9014 you know I will say it’s not an exact science. You have a lot of room for error as long as you don’t run the disc too long. If you use the buffing pads and glue some sandpaper on top it should work just fine You can even trim down foam buffing wheels. So the Jfj comes with to hook and loop risers to put the sandpaper on. A medium open cell buffing pad and then a soft open cell foam pad for polishing At this point I don’t even use the polishing compound I just use water A lot of disk can be saved just with a buffing. But if you have any access to foam i’d say cut yourself a wheel out and slap some sandpaper on there. It’s really hard to mess up like I said unless you do it for too long without water Take a look on AliExpress you may be able to find some stuff there to use

I sell them on eBay, right now I’m out of stock. Should have more in about a week. There is a couple links in the comments you can use to get to my eBay page

@@JohnnyNJones ok thank you

Unfortunately I don’t have any right now I have more that are showing up in inventory soon. When you click the link choose my name and send me a message for further details

I sell them on eBay 👍

I will look into it more but I think the problem that I have heard is that the ps1 discs are are too rigid and the plastic is harder to polish. Although I think with some modification it could be done, i’ll look into it.

@@JohnnyNJones thank you sir! 👍🍻

@@svenwald9199 no problem 👍

​@@svenwald9199 Check out the video I've got. You can fast forward to the end. No scratches!

​@@JohnnyNJones👍excellent tips 👌 might have to give the different brands a try

No problem! It has a deep learning curve on it. I truly tell you it is hard to master. And they charge way too much !

I sell them on eBay. I’m about to get more in stock in the next week or two.

They’ll be in stock soon. They should be here by the ninth or the 12th 👍 I can’t tell you exactly where I get them from cause it took me a very long time to find the manufacturer, but by all means, if you do enough work, you could figure it out

@JohnnyNJones Awesome! I'll definitely pick some up, thank you again 🙏

There’s no name for it, I get them ordered in bulk from a company overseas. I’m getting more in stock soon I still have three sets in stock www.ebay.com/itm/134640818211?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bqlgDs_2Rxm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=bqlgDs_2Rxm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

If you buy it on ebay it will add any extra UK postage 👍

How can I find you on eBay ?

The problem with Dreamcast games is that they don’t have the extra layer plastic on top of the data. Therefore, if the top of the disk gets scratched, the entire disc is ruined. So first and foremost, I would make sure that you can actually fix the disk. You can do this by holding the disk up in front of lightbulb, and seeing if any light shows through you’ll definitely see scratches or holes if the disk is ruined. Otherwise, if the disk has no holes in the data, you should be able to repair it like any other disk although I would recommend you do it very carefully. Luckily, it’s the same exact size as other games that you can repair with the JFJ easy pro 👍

@@JohnnyNJones wow thanks!!! Will do that. Provided it's reparable, 10 seconds on each sand grit and some meguairs?

@@mr.b9613 try to stay away from heavy sanding, we have to be more careful with dreamcast disks because of the data layer being right under the label. We don’t want to get it too hot and we don’t want the label to rub on the metal plate so tighten down the nut. I would go with light sanding for 10 seconds at a time and spray with water each time until it appears that the scratches are diminishing then two minutes of buffing with the polish preferably in 30 second intervals to keep temps low and spray with water. See if that does the trick 👍

​​@@JohnnyNJonesI followed your advice to a tee. Only thing is I had to go 10 seconds with the 600 grit due to 1 pesty deep scratch on the disk but did light sanding with Hercules 1500 grit for 10 seconds at a time. Kept everything after below 30 second intervals and used so much water for every one that I shrunk the ocean down about 2%. My game is back to working condition even after multiple failed restoration attempts. Thank you so much!!!!

@@mr.b9613 wow man I’m really happy for you!! to be honest I thought it may be a difficult restoration with how old Dreamcast games are. You did a great job 👍👍👍👍 I miss my dream cast I used to love playing army men, Sarges, heroes, and Star Wars racer

The bottom is motorized the top is just a freely rotating spindle

@@JohnnyNJones Thank you for answering. It looks very heavy for just a freely rotating spindle, but as you mentioned in the video it's a very simple system.

Right now I’m selling them on eBay

@@JohnnyNJones I saw the white ones, but not the orange ones. are the white ones the same?

Also curious. I use the orange pads since I was sent those instead of white. They seem to work alright, but are they okay to use with the jfj white compound / meguiars

@@Radda561 yeah, those are totally fine to use with anything 👍 They’re just a different color and slightly more firm

@@JohnnyNJones I'll have to look up your site.

Don’t worry they will come off, you just need a lighter sandpaper, The swirl marks them selves don’t usually cause a reading issue so don’t worry about the aesthetics but if they are causing a reading issue then you can try some lighter sandpaper or polish it for a long time.

@@JohnnyNJones Thanks i'm gonna try out your tips to see if I can save it.

I sell them on my ebay page.

@@JohnnyNJones could you send the link please

questions so as what you mention on the vide you sad you cut the sand paper of the other brands and glue them to the sand paper pads what happens when the sand paper pads become used and you want to change the sand paper sheet how do you remove the sand paper?

@@palemonvazquez1383 I superglue them to the other sticky sandpaper pads that came with the machine. I do not superglue them directly to the pads. 👍 If you search JFJ compatible pads on ebay you’ll find my listing. I am the only one who lists those pads on there.

@@JohnnyNJones I really appreciate it thanks for youre advice could you send the link to find the orange pads I can't find them on ebay thanks

The method should work, but you’ll need special pads and a special plate from JFJ unfortunately. If I could source the pads, I would

@@JohnnyNJones ok I tried looking for some at harbor freight and Menards but couldn't find any

@@encoinpusher5404 I sell the pads on eBay. I’m out of stock right now, but I should have more in about a week. 👋 I suppose I could put together some sandpaper as well, but I’m sure you guys could get that on your own

When back in stock post a link

@@encoinpusher5404 Will do 👍

www.ebay.com/itm/135153753120?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bqlgDs_2Rxm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=bqlgDs_2Rxm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

www.ebay.com/itm/134634780618?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bqlgDs_2Rxm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=bqlgDs_2Rxm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

​@@JohnnyNJonessold out?

@@dennishartinger3213Yeah I have one more pad I can post But it’s my back up i’ll post it now www.ebay.com/itm/134634780618?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bqlgDs_2Rxm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=bqlgDs_2Rxm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

ok you mentioned you cut the sand paper sheets in circles, then you super glue it on the sand paper pad what happens when the sand paper is all ready been used how do I apply a new sheet to the pad is it easy to remove or you glue the new sheets on to of the used one? just wanna know what advice you can give?

Oh I’m sorry I must’ve missed out on your comment I thought I replied to this. I don’t know where you can get them in Europe or Germany, It would cost me quite a bit to send them but if you keep looking you might be able to find something it just takes a lot of digging it seems and trial and error

I picked up a pad at Harbor freight but they didn’t carry anything I needed I had to trim one down and it lasted only a week or so I had to track down specific pads for it The white pads last weeks Then you can wash them out and reuse them I sell them on eBay because I have to order huge quantities at a time the next time they’re in stock will be on the 19th

@JohnnyNJones I bought the pads off you 👍 last ditch effort before I buy a elm pro 2

@@emptychamber5565 Thank you, Well the pads will last a long time but the elm 2 is a better machine. I am currently coming up with my own formula that’s safe and nontoxic for fixing disc surfaces and it’s working wonders

www.ebay.com/usr/johnnynathanieljones This is a link to my ebay page

When will your buffing pads be back in stock?

@@jIguess I should have them back in stock on the ninth 👍

@@JohnnyNJonesalright thank you

@@jIguess no problem

Look on my channel and you’ll find another method for doing this with nothing but a Dremel But the same thing applies if you want to do it manually Toothpaste and microfiber towel

Yeah I would say it’s pretty much useless 👍

The cracks didn’t seem to affect the functionality, until the plastic finally broke. But JFJ sells replacement pieces. 2 sets were $15 and it was a simple fix. Back up and running in no time

Actually, the reason they had to add the metal disc because the plastic disc couldn’t dissipate heat fast enough, so it actually was hotter than the metal one. I don’t use any rubbing compound and i wouldn’t put anything between the disk and the metal because the reason the metal plate gets so hot is that it absorbs heat from the disk so it won’t melt. What you can do is put some water on top of the metal plate Just spray it down and it’ll get rid of a lot of heat

@@JohnnyNJones Ah, I see. That makes sense I suppose. Maybe they should have used a bigger metal plate then? But ya I'll definitely keep the water trick in mind. Your video has been VERY helpful!

@@skins4thewin yeah, they could definitely improve the design of the metal plate if they added some fins to it like a heat sink. But spraying water on, it seem to work very well for me. And keep the sanding pad, wet dispersed a lot of the heat as well. Thank you very much, I’m glad it helped!

I have them in stock right now, the orange pads are the only ones I sell. They may be listed as white, but they are indeed orange There are all sorts of pads you could buy, try harbor freight. You are right though I won’t tell anyone where I’m getting them. That’s information I worked hard for.

@@ronny332 I thought that myself, but actually it’s not. The aluminum is there to reflect the tiny imperfections in the plastic itself. The plastic is molded from the metal dye they use for the master.

That’s for CD’s not DVD’s DVD’s are made of two layers of plastic, one on the top and one on the bottom. When I showed you the scratch in the video, notice that you could still see the aluminum material. That material is used to reflect the laser so it can read the data. The top side of the disk is just for looks. CD’s on the other hand only have one layer of plastic with the reflective layer on top. When those get scratched the aluminum layer flakes off the top.

Actually, I’ve been doing this for about a year, and I haven’t had any problems. The machine is made to withstand moisture anyway. I’ve let water sit in this thing for days without any problems.

www.ebay.com/itm/134743674972?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bqlgDs_2Rxm&sssrc=2051273&ssuid=bqlgDs_2Rxm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

It’s a better machine sure but the eco pro 2 is way too expensive for someone who’s just repairing a few games.