Mastering Wheel Truing Stands: Unveiling the Secrets

Подписаться 16 тыс.

Просмотров 18 тыс.

50% 1

How to use wheel truing stands, great tools for bicycle wheel building, truing, repairs and a lot more. #bikerepair #JimLangley #BicycleAficionado
❤️ Please Subscribe - Thanks for Watching! ❤️
Timecodes:
0:00 - Welcome
0:12 - Basic info about truing stands
0:20 - Viewers' questions about truing jigs
0:43 - Truing stands all work similarly
1:14 - This video is not about truing wheels
1:28 - See my other video about wheel truing
1:52 - Putting wheels in truing stands: about tires
2:56 - Putting wheels in truing stands: about hubs & axles
4:19 - How to put wheels in truing jigs
5:16 - How to put in quick-release wheels
6:12 - How to put in bolt-on wheels
6:53 - How to put in thru-axle wheels
7:17 - Truing stands with built-in thru-axle adapters
7:49 - How thru-axle adapters for hubs work
9:01 - Park Tool's thru-axle adapters for truing stands
10:31 - Function 1 of a truing stand - holding wheels
12:38 - Function 2 of a truing stand - fix wheel wobbles
17:05 - Function 3 of a truing stand - fix roundness issues
21:00 - Function 4 of a truing stand - rim centering
22:27 - Centering or dishing gauges, tools
22:51 - About dial indicator truing stands
23:25 - Ideas for making your own truing stand
24:18 - Tips for good ergonomics when working on wheels
10:02 - Closing comments
The thru axle adapters I showed: www.ebay.com/itm/293123028117...
Park Tool thru axle adapters for truing stands: amzn.to/3JJeShQ
My other wheel-building related videos
● Basic bicycle wheel terminology explained:
• Bicycle-Wheel Spoke Te...
● How to find or calculate the right spoke lengths
• 5 Ways to FIND THE RIG...
● Ways to keep spokes tight so your wheels stay true
• Bicycle Wheel Building...
● All about spoke tensiometers and if you need one
• Do You Need A SPOKE TE...
● My new wheel truing stand, Park Tool's TS-4.2
• Park Tool's Easy to Us...
● How to fix aero spokes that were twisted during building
• Fixing Bladed Spoke Tw...
● Pro-tip: how to align hub labels with the valve:
• Wheel Building Pro Tip...
● How to build wheels faster with a driver bit
• Build Bicycle Wheels F...
● Shimano's lacing pattern for disc brake bike wheels:
• How to Lace Disc Bicyc...
● How to inspect a pair of new wheels:
• ICAN Chinese Carbon Bi...
☼ The wheel building tools I show, use and mention. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases (there's no added cost to you).
► Thru axle adapters
www.ebay.com/itm/293123028117...
► Park Tool thru axle adapters for truing stands
amzn.to/3JJeShQ
► Efficient Velo Tool's Mulfinger nipple holder
amzn.to/3exQqz7
► Park Tool's Nipple Driver
amzn.to/2L2z9VI
► Park Tool's TS-2.2 Truing Stand
amzn.to/2AoOhqt
► Park Tool's Tilting Base for the TS-2.2 Truing Stand
amzn.to/3ozWf3O
► Park Tool's 3.2mm Square Socket Internal Nipple Spoke Wrench (Driver)
amzn.to/31IJlpm
► Park Tool's Four-Sided Spoke Wrench Black 0.127in
amzn.to/34QSAFU
► Park Tool's SW-9 Spoke Wrench for use with aero spoke holder
amzn.to/3ulXKbD
► Park Tool's Portable Dishing Gauge
amzn.to/2Aid4Nd
► Park Tool's Spoke Tension Meter
amzn.to/36mEn6d
► Park Tool's Aero Spoke Holder (anti-twist tool)
amzn.to/2KYlDlP
► For hubs, rims & spokes, I use
wheelbuilder.com
☼ Read my free weekly Jim's Tech Talk column:
● www.roadbikerider.com/author/...
☼ My bicycle wheelbuilding articles that complement this video:
● jimlangley.net/wrench/wheelbu...
● jimlangley.net/wrench/buildwh...
☼ My Elephant Tough Custom Wheels & Jim Langley Bicycle Aficionado logo T's, caps, mugs, pint glasses and stickers:
● www.cafepress.com/jimlangleys...
☼ My famous Bicycle Aficionado website - online since 1999!
● www.jimlangley.net
☼ My Bicycle Beat blog
● jimlangley.blogspot.com/

Спорт

Опубликовано:

27 июн 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 85

@JimLangley1 Год назад

★ WATCH this video next to see my newest truing stand Park Tool's impressive TS-4 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XqsKUceJzp8.html ★ WATCH this video next for great setupss & tools for wheel spoke lacing ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LRS2_Tx8fU4.html

@NoQualmsTheArtist Месяц назад

Your content is seriously gold! 💯

@JimLangley1 Месяц назад

Thanks a lot NoQualms! 🙏 Really appreciate you watching and the great comments! 🚴

@LocksRocks Год назад

Great video Jim! Covers and answers the solutions for the different options out there. Thanks for sharing your experience and wealth of knowledge with us.

@JimLangley1 Год назад

I'm happy you enjoyed it, Locks! Thanks for watching and commenting!

@twotired Год назад

The first time I got to see a real truing stand at a local bike shop, the mechanic let me watch as he straightened the wobble in my wheel. The tire was still on the rim and as he proceeded to turn the nipples, all of a sudden the tire lost it's air pressure. After a few choice words the mechanic admitted that he should have let the pressure out of the tire before he starting truing the wheel. The turing nipple had torn a hole through the rubber rim strip and then through the innertube, letting the air out. That was a valuable learning experience for both of us. Couple years after that I bought my own truing stand and have been truing and building my own wheels for the last 40 years. Thanks, for sharing your knowledge.

@JimLangley1 Год назад

Thanks a lot for watching and sharing your great story Keith. That was an easy mistake to make back then when the only thing between the spokes and the tube was a rubber or rope rim strip. And, in the 1970s some spokes on bikes came too long from the factory. One of my jobs when assembling new British 3-speeds at one of the shops I worked at was to fix this. I had to remove the wheels, tires, tubes and rim strips and file every spoke down flush with the top of the nipple.. 72 spokes on every bike! All to prevent flats when we sold the bikes. It's nice that today so many rims have the spokes recessed far enough inside that it's okay if the spokes are a little long. Thanks again for sharing your story!

@peterharrer3261 Год назад

Terrific, Jim. I admire your daring to go granular, to show us these different stands and how to use them. It seems Park Tool has the best, but they're probably the most expensive also. Me, I use a bicycle fork in a vise with a pair of pencils taped to the arms. Not too accurate, but it works.

@JimLangley1 Год назад

Thanks for the kind words, Peter - very happy you enjoyed this video! I like Park's stands the best because they're so easy to work with, but yes, the cost has gone up over the years. When I bought my latest one, their new topline 4.2, I just looked at it as investing in a tool that'll still be going strong decades from now. My previous Park stand, the 2.0 is 40 years old and still working like new. Park stands aren't the most expensive. The ones with dial indicators cost more, such as the beautiful P&K Lie www.pklie.de/truing_stand.html I had one of their stands and enjoyed it but I found it took too much time to setup the stand and it wasn't suited to the "rough" truing you do after first lacing a wheel. At that point you often have large wobbles and hops and dips. With a Park stand you can easily open the stand caliper to handle any size issue with a just-laced wheel. Not so with the P&K. But, some people swear by it and wouldn't use anything else. Thanks for telling me about your bicycle fork truing stand - that's actually what I used before I bought my Park stand and yes, they definitely work! Thanks for watching and sharing what truing stand you use.

@mauriciorosales1259 Год назад

Thank you Jim, I’m going to build a wheel one day, thanks to your videos

@JimLangley1 Год назад

You're very welcome, Mauricio! Thank you for watching and it's great to hear you're planning to build a wheel - you can do it!

@sylvainmichaud2262 8 месяцев назад

My stand is fixed to a white melamine board attached to an angle grinder stand with adjustable height fixed on a center pole and a heavy base that has a minimal footprint. It can be put in a corner and move around as needed without cluttering the workbench. I've created a removable side bracket that enables to check the the dishing by sliding the wheel on and off the appropriate shortened axle (based on Park Tool's Wheel Holder WH-1 design) with minimal movements. I've installed hooks on the ceiling to enable me to get to the wheels without moving and get them out of the way as needed. All these things make the task easy, reduce the risks of injuries (back or neck pain) or damaging the wheels.

@JimLangley1 8 месяцев назад

Thanks for sharing Sylvain - if only YT allowed sharing photos too! Your setup sounds very well thought out. I like your dishing checker - that right there would save time and effort. Very clever. And having a movable self-contained building station is a very nice way to go. Appreciate you sharing!

@MattOckendon Год назад

Thank you Jim - another well timed video for me. I'm just starting to think that I've outgrown the two big shelf brackets that I screwed to a piece of scrap that I've used to true first half a dozen wheels I built. Great to have you clarify what I'm looking for. Keep up the great work.

@JimLangley1 Год назад

Happy to hear the video was helpful, Matthew. Thanks a lot for watching. I enjoyed hearing about your homemade truing station, good one! I think you'll enjoy having a truing stand. Thanks again.

@hosemorelas2439 Год назад

Thak You for Your films! You do the great job!

@JimLangley1 Год назад

You're very welcome, Hose, glad you enjoy them. Thanks a lot for watching and commenting, appreciate it ❤.

@mitchell5163 8 месяцев назад

Thanks Jim, great video and good info on the TS-4.2 which I'm considering. You asked for info on stands we use and I'll mention I've been using a simple stand I bought for $13 from Palo Alto Bike Shop 50 years ago as a young teen-ager. It's made from aluminum 1" stock bent into a U shape, with V-notches in the top of each upright of the U. One bolt attaches it to an X-base made from two more aluminum straps. It has a wing-nut adjustable arm made from aluminum rod stock formed into a small U shape at the end to surround the rim--drilled on both sides for bolts that can be screwed in or out to measure rim-trueness. Cheap and simple, but I have a a 50 year old Campagnolo dishing tool so this strap stand has served me fine to build many dozens of wheels over the years. It's a bit slow in some parts of the building process compared to a Park TS-2, and it wobbles, but as you know, you can build quality wheels that way if you have a good dishing tool. I always thought I was suffering with this cheap stand until I was chatting with a couple pro race mechanics at the Ghent Six Day, 30 or 35 years ago, and they both used home-made scrap-strap truing stands like my Palo Alto one, and said they used these simple stands to build all their team wheels! So I decided mine must be good enough, haha, and went for another 30 years building with it. But then, like you say, Boost and fat bike wheels and not wanting to dump sealant, so it's finally time for a Park TS-4.2. Thanks for the teaching (and for all I learned from you in your Bicycle Magazine column).

@JimLangley1 8 месяцев назад

Thanks for watching and the great comment Mitch. I had the Palo Alto repair stand and used it for a long time, amazing for the price. And I never made one but as a Cycling USA trained mechanic they taught us how to make those basic truing stands. I know how well they can work. I still use Campy dishing gauges and think they’re among the best - definitely the most elegant. If you want to use one for the wider rear MTB wheels it’s pretty easy to modify them by adding a spacer block on both feet. I just used pieces of brass center drilled. Then I drilled and threaded a 5mm hole into both the spacer blocks and the dishing tool. To attach them I use the Campagnolo down tube shift lever thumb screws. I can make a video to show this if you’d be interested. Thanks a lot for watching and the awesome comment🙏❤️

@vincentblanc8432 Год назад

Thanks for sharing all you experience Jim!

@JimLangley1 Год назад

You’re very welcome, Vincent! Thanks for watching!!

@Tokyomodeldetective Год назад

This is an amazing insight! Awesome work

@JimLangley1 Год назад

Thanks a lot for watching and the awesome comment, TMD, appreciate it!!

@Tokyomodeldetective Год назад

@@JimLangley1 thank you Jim, given me confidence to start truing! Keep up the good work and videos mate! All the best

@JimLangley1 Год назад

@@Tokyomodeldetective you're very welcome, TMD! If you haven't seen it be sure to watch my How to Build Wheels video because I give extensive truing instructions in it including removing side to side wobbles and roundness issues (hops and dips). Here's a link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XUqul03hbZ8.html The video has chapters - the little red line at the bottom. Scroll along that line and you can find where the truing starts so you don't have to watch the rest of the video but get to the truing stuff. I'm always happy to answer questions too. Have fun!!

@Bikeops2021 Год назад

Hi there Jim. Another great video with plenty of tips for amateur & pro's I guess. I've not actually built any of my own wheels as yet, I do have a friend who is a pro so normally get them built by him for a very reasonable price & great quality components. I do a bit of truing for friends so bought a cheap stand a while back, a Minoura make I think, around £70. The stand is similar to the small unstable one in you video, I modified it a bit & fixed it to a steel plate to make it a little steadier. It does the job for the couple times I use it, although I'm always on the lookout for a decent one at car & bike parts jumbles. OK that's for sharing this with us Jim, always nice to have this info to look back on. Cheers G.

@JimLangley1 Год назад

You're very welcome, Graham. Thanks a lot for watching and commenting and for telling about how you modified your Minoura truing stand. You can find the used Park stands if you keep looking. Good luck! And for anyone interested in Minoura truing stands, if you visit their webpage you can see the models they offer: www.minoura.jp/english/tool/tool.html

@mastedi Год назад

Well said and shown. Thanks

@JimLangley1 Год назад

You’re very welcome, tedi, thank you for watching and the great comment!

@godfellas483 Месяц назад

Thanks Jim...I finally have all the parts gathered for my new wheel build. Wish me luck. I have only taken wheels apart and rebuilt them so far. I don't remember if it was in one of your videos or not, but I saw some one lightly hitting and setting the J bends (on new spokes) with a light plastic hammer tap before truing the wheel. I looked and couldn't find it again. Do you recommend this step? Thanks for all your great pro tips so far...😎

@JimLangley1 Месяц назад

Good luck, you can do it! Yes, I show that step in my video about here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XUqul03hbZ8.html and yes you should do it when you're building your wheel. It's important because you want the spokes to be straight before you start truing. They usually curve coming out of the hub and gently tapping or pressing them down will seat them in the hub, flatten them and straighten them. I show the plastic hammer technique and also this technique in the video with a screwdriver handle that flattens both spokes - that's here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XUqul03hbZ8.html Have fun!!

@godfellas483 Месяц назад

@@JimLangley1 Thanks Jim for having the heart and soul of a teacher.! I will use the plastic hammer and screwdriver handle method before I tighten them up. I also just noticed that my new rim holes are too small for my 12g nipples. They measure really closely at 3/16 in my hole gauge. I am going to drill them (lower) from the outside in as it looks they came new. Nothing looks countersunk on my old wheel or new. Both are double wall, and the upper hole is large enough to accommodate the nipple head. Thanks again for the video reference. I couldn't find that again to save my life! I am however "enjoying the process"...Cheers mate! 😎

@JimLangley1 Месяц назад

@@godfellas483 if it isn't too late, you might want to double check with the rim company to make sure they say it's okay to enlarge the holes for the spoke nipples. If they say no, then you'll need to switch to 14g nipples and spokes. It all depends on the rim and how reinforced the holes are.

@eegaugh 4 месяца назад

I don't think you mentioned the brand of the lightweight stand with the friction held arms - Spoke Doctor? I prefer to use a dishing gauge for centring as it is quick and easy to check at several points around the rim. Good tip about the white background (I recently painted my shop-built stand in black!)

@JimLangley1 4 месяца назад

Thanks for watching and the question. That stand was called the Spin Doctor and I believe it was sold by Performance Bike Shop. I don't think it's made anymore, but it might be found on eBay.com etc. It's so lightweight it's best to clamp it down when using it or hold it in a vise. I agree with you that dishing gauges are the best way to ensure wheels are perfectly centered. I talk about them in some of my other videos. Some builders like using truing stands for centering, but when you want it perfect, it's a lot easier with a proper dishing tool. Here are some of mine: ru-vid.com52eggMGEYDM Glad you liked my tip on white backgrounds, the older your eyes get the more it helps 😀 Thanks again!!

@bikeomatic8005 Год назад

I sold my last bike today, but I kept my park tool blue tool suitcase with all the tools I gathered over last 10 yrs or so. Maybe I’ll go back to cycling in future :)

@JimLangley1 Год назад

Thanks for watching and the comment, Bikeo. I'm happy to hear you saved your toolkit. The wonderful thing about cycling is that you can almost always go back to the bike after time off because riding is very easy on the body.

@campionoverbagh561 4 месяца назад

Thank you Nice and thorough

@JimLangley1 4 месяца назад

My pleasure Campion, thank you for watching and commenting, appreciate it! 🙏

@campionoverbagh561 4 месяца назад

Do you have a favorite budget level truing stand to reccomend? I fix up classic English 3 speeds as a hobby

@JimLangley1 4 месяца назад

@@campionoverbagh561 that's a fun hobby, Campion. My first job at my second bike shop was assembling new Raleigh 3-speeds - great bikes. I still have one that I ride sometimes and a nice Rex 3-sp with 27" wheels - a rare bike. 3-speed wheels are heavy so you'll probably want to bolt any cheap truing stand to your workbench or clamp it in a vise since most of the cheap stands are pretty flimsy. But the thing is that 3-speed wheels usually have steel rims, which are not that difficult to true or fussy to true since how true the wheel is depends on the rim and most steel rims have welded seams that mean you can only get them within a certain tolerance. So, you could true them in any truing stand and get them nice as they can be. I think though that if you really enjoy working on wheels you will enjoy having a nice truing stand at some point and Park's TS-2 would be the ideal stand, especially if you get the base along with it. These turn up on eBay every now and then. There's one right now for about $180 (the shipping is more than the stand) - and it comes with a whole bunch of other stuff: www.ebay.com/itm/296230815890?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=HlIUrghKTei&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=mmzFHhVoQI-&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I hope that long link works. You could just search on "truing stand" too. Another option would be to make your own. Angle iron is pretty inexpensive and very easy to work with with basic hand tools. If you had a corner of a workbench to turn into a wheel truing station you could bolt the angle iron down for the base and make 2 sliding uprights from other pieces of angle iron and be off to the races ;-) I hope something here helps and thanks again!

@campionoverbagh561 4 месяца назад

Thank you that's great advice. I currently have a couple of 70's bikes; a Dunelt and a BSA both made after the Raleigh take over of those brands. They're both in good original condition and have cleaned up beautifully. Thanks again for sharing your enthusiasm.

@JimLangley1 4 месяца назад

@@campionoverbagh561 enjoy those great bikes Campion! I've worked on and seen many Dunelts. BSAs are much rarer in my experience. One of the great things about these classic 3-speeds is that they often came with lovely head badges with historic themes, such as the Robin Hood 3-speed with Robin and Nottingham Castle on the badge. Or the Elswick with a beautiful seahorse on the badge. Even though the bikes look similar, these little works of art on the frame set them apart and made each person feel like they had a unique bike. I have been collecting head badges for many years. In case you like them too, here's the case of mine with most of the badges from 3-speed bicycles. If you click the Next "button" up top you will open a new photo and another and see the badges. jimlangley.net/brake/europlatesdet13.html

@GraydonTranquilla Год назад

Excellent.

@JimLangley1 Год назад

Thanks a lot, Graydon, appreciate you watching and the comment!

@leazion8658 Год назад

Gracias por tu contenido maestro! Aprendo mucho contigo. Estoy en el camino de perfeccionarme en armar ruedas. Saludos desde Patagonia Argentina

@JimLangley1 Год назад

De nada, gracias por mirar y el gran comentario Lea! En caso de que aún no lo hayas encontrado, aquí está mi video sobre cómo construir ruedas de bicicleta: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XUqul03hbZ8.html ¡Gracias de nuevo y feliz construcción de ruedas!

@michaelclements4664 Год назад

One more feature the Park TS2 stands have, is adjustable centering. The center position drifts slightly as you open & close the arms for different axle lengths. Each arm has an adjustable collar that sets its position relative to the other arm, which changes the center point. If you set these collars carefully, it can give a true enough center to obviate the need for a separate dishing gauge.

@JimLangley1 Год назад

Thanks for watching and mentioning Park Tool's self-centering truing stands, Michael (the blue one shown in this video). When they are adjusted correctly as they are from the factory, when you place a wheel into the stand the indicators on the truing stand will show the center position where the rim should be. So on a wobbly wheel you can true until the rim runs true right between the middle of the L and R indicators and you know that your rim is now correctly centered (meaning the wheel will center correctly when you put it back on the bike). Over time if the centering feature of the Park truing stand changes, you can fine-tune it as you described. I have more information on Park's great truing stands in my review of their TS-4.2 truing stand here: tinyurl.com/ynd2meu6 Thanks again!

@michaelclements4664 Год назад

BTW, the Park TS2.2 is variant of the truing stand we used at the shop I worked at back in the 1980s. It's a time tested, solid durable classic.

@JimLangley1 Год назад

Thanks, Michael, I agree. I've used Park truing stands since they first came out. They recently replaced the TS-2.2 with the 2.3: www.parktool.com/en-us/product/professional-wheel-truing-stand-ts-2-3 I just upgraded to their 4.2 and have a review here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XqsKUceJzp8.html

@popswilson2008 Год назад

Thanks for the informative video Jim. What’s your thoughts on the Feedback Sports Pro Truing Stand 2.0?

@JimLangley1 Год назад

Thanks for watching and the question popswilson! I used a very early version of that stand. They've improved it a lot and added features since then and made it quite a nice stand for the money (the price I'm seeing on their site today is $150). For anyone wanting to learn more about it, here's the link to the stand in Feedback's site: www.feedbacksports.com/product/pro-truing-stand-2-0/ And here's their video on how it works: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-STAZbw9r7hA.html I haven't worked with this new version but I like that it has a steel base, can be mounted to a bench and it's a nice feature for traveling mechanics that it attaches to a Feedback repair stand. Also, it's great for people with disc brake bikes or who work on their wheels that it includes a rotor trueness indicator. That costs extra with some of the other stands. The only thing about this stand is that you can't see both sides of the rim at the same time, which is true of the basic Park model, too. But it's easy enough to flip the wheel in the stand if you want to check the other side of the rim. The one thing you'd want to make sure is that the stand is strong enough to handle the wheels you work on. Since it only has one arm and one aluminum axle holder, you wonder if a heavy wheel such as a e-bike wheel with a motor inside would cause the stand's axle holder to flex as you worked on the wheel. As I said, I haven't tried this stand so unfortunately I can't tell you. But, usually if you do a little searching you will find reviews and hopefully someone who has used it for heavy wheels like that will have commented about it. If you mainly work on pretty standard wheels, it looks like it would hold them just fine. Hope this is helpful and thanks for the great question.

@cosinus_square Год назад

Love watching your videos about wheelbuilding and always wanted to ask you about hubs. I want to build a few sets of wheels to last me another 4-5 years as I don't want to switch to disc brakes, because I enjoy very much the suppleness of rim brake bikes. For the last 5 sets of wheels I've built for myself in the last 7-8 years, I've used Miche Primato Syntesi hubs and found them to be very reliable, especially for heavier riders. I'm more interested in standard hubs, not proprietary like Chris King or DT Swiss, also would like to avoid Bitex as well. As you have built 1000's of rim brake wheels in your career, what are some of the most reliable rim brake hubs that you have used and know of? There's nothing wrong with the Miche hubs but don't mind trying something new once in a while.

@JimLangley1 Год назад

Thanks so much, COSINUS. I appreciate you watching and the kind words. I actually have been building with mostly DT Swiss hubs for the past several years, mostly the 350. I've also built with pretty basic Shimano hubs. Like you I look for reliability foremost. I haven't built with the Miche hubs you're using but if you've used them so much and they work so well, I would keep using them. I did a search and those hubs are even available on Amazon amzn.to/3zVdzYD Availability is one of the big issues with the shortages in the industry. So just the fact that they are available is a great thing.

@davidburgess741 Год назад

Got a single angle iron truing stand. Would be better in 1/4" steel. It clamps into a heavy vice and a dial indicator fastens on a magnetic base. This is a one direction device so axle length won't matter. For an occasional build it's better than the bike frame.

@JimLangley1 Год назад

Thanks for watching and sharing the details of your handmade stand, David, appreciate it! It sounds very nice. I'd enjoy seeing a photo if there's any way you could share one. Thanks again!

@davidburgess741 Год назад

@@JimLangley1 Not much to see. The dial gage and base stored indoors. The angle iron with a hole sits next to a monstrous vice on an equivalent steel table outdoors. No need to gild the lily! 1/4" angle iron would flex less and quick release would work better. Perhaps some threading could make it better and allow through axles of different sizes. Definitely with just a magnetic height gage pointer this is an easy option.

@JimLangley1 Год назад

@@davidburgess741 sounds very clever to me, David. Thanks a lot for explaining more of the details. It's sure to help people interested in building their own!

@surbanbikes8392 3 месяца назад

Hello. I have a question for you. When we assemble a wheel, for example a rear wheel, should we take into account, when we turn the hub, the direction of rotation of the wheel? Does this influence the rigidity? I am referring to the direction of the spokes with respect to the rotation of the wheel. Thank you very much for your knowledge. blessings

@JimLangley1 3 месяца назад

Thanks for watching and the question. It's really up to you to decide how you would like to build rear wheels. Different experts have different opinions and there's a lot you can read on the subject to decide. As a professional wheel builder I follow Shimano's recommendations for wheels with disc brakes, both front and rear - as people expect to see that and I can point to Shimano as having done the engineering and testing. I have a video showing how to lace those wheels the Shimano way: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gfWd7_avr1s.html For wheels without disc brakes, I follow my late friend and bike engineer Jobst Brandt's recommendations. 40 years ago he wrote one of the best books on wheel building The Bicycle Wheel. I talk about that and explain his lacing recommendations in this video - at the end - and I also have a link in that video to Jobst's book in an online pdf so you can read it for free. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4kVlmOjgdAs.html But one thing to know is that wheels are incredibly strong even if you wing it and lace it the way that makes sense to you. As long as you use a good hub, good spokes (stainless steel double butted are best) and a good rim; and as long as you get the right spoke length, get the wheel reasonably true and round and centered, and get the spokes tight enough so that they won't loosen, you will have a good reliable wheel. It's more about the parts used in the wheel and the quality of the build than it is about the spoke pattern. But it's good to choose one based on the best theories out there and learn the basic idea behind it so you feel good that you're building great wheels. You can also explain it if a customer asks. As I said I would go with Shimano's lacing for all disc wheels since they're a huge authority - watch my video carefully. With their pattern the front and rear wheel are laced differently. So don't lace them the same. For wheels without disc brakes read what Jobst has to say and decide based on that. Okay, I hope this is helpful.

@surbanbikes8392 3 месяца назад

Tanks a lot for the help Jim, i will study the Shimano's method

@JimLangley1 3 месяца назад

@@surbanbikes8392 my pleasure. That's a good choice because it's the most used one now with so many bikes going to discs.

@gnatman1102 Год назад

Hi Jim! Another great video. I've appreciated your support from our conversation over on your "How to Build Bicycle Wheels the Easy Way" video. Today, I received the Park Tool T.S. 2.3 stand. During the assembly, I found the caliber arm knob binds completely to a stop about half inch in the hole. It's not from trying to move the arm against the spring. I pulled the arm back and still couldn't turn the knob. I looked at the threads in the hole. They don't appear to be stripped. Per the instructions, I greased the threads, but it just stops. Do you know if this a known problem with this or other stands?

@JimLangley1 Год назад

Thanks for watching gnatman! Hmmm.. by any chance is there a plastic packaging piece in there blocking the bolt? I seem to remember on mine there was and it was tricky to get out. If that’s not the problem you should call Park and ask for tech support- they’re good people.

@gnatman1102 Год назад

I figured it out. Too much paint ended up in the bolt hole. Worked the bolt back-and-forth. It no longer binds.

@JimLangley1 Год назад

@@gnatman1102 excellent- great job!

@gnatman1102 Год назад

@@JimLangley1 Thanks! It wasn't fun for my weak wrists. Lol!

@gnatman1102 Год назад

@Jim Langley Hey Jim! Either I'm doing something wrong inserting a wheel in my ne TS 2.3 stand, or there's an issue with the stand. I tried both a thru axle wheel and a quick release. When I put the thru axle wheel in and checked the rim for true by narrowing the caliper arms, the right side of the rim rubbed a spot. I said to myself that perhaps an adjustment is needed. I removed the wheel for a moment, and then put it back on the stand. Both times, the drive side was on the right. This time, the left side rubbed. I take it out and put it back on the stand. Now, the right side rubs. I checked the thru-axle adapters, and they are both correctly in the notches. I also had trouble getting the quick release axle to lie flat in the notches. Plus, I noticed the right upright didn't close in evenly with the left with quick-release wheel on the stand. Am I missing or doing something wrong?

@gabsbike3 Год назад

greetings from Brazil!! a question. Which is ideal to use? will smith prep spoke or lubricant on spoke threads.

@JimLangley1 Год назад

Thanks for watching, GT and thanks for the greetings from Brazil! I prefer Wheelsmith Spoke Prep but it is kind of expensive and it does take time to apply and dry. I have a video about those things here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-z4FKL95x6DE.html The reason I like it is because it dries so there's no oily lube mess to clean up. I hope this helps and enjoy your wheel building!

@gabsbike3 Год назад

@@JimLangley1 I understand, but I keep asking myself if the oil for lubricating doesn't release the nipples faster.

@JimLangley1 Год назад

@@gabsbike3 I’m not sure I understand what you mean by “release,” GT. If you’re asking if you can take a wheel apart easier when oil was used or Spoke Prep, it’s about the same.

@gabsbike3 Год назад

@@JimLangley1 I'll try to explain again, I'm not fluent in English...I use a translator and I love bicycle wheels. my question is the following if you use oil in the preparation of the spokes due to the fact that the wheel is lubricated quickly.

@JimLangley1 Год назад

@@gabsbike3 thanks for explaining more, GT. Yes, if you use oil you don't have to wait for anything to dry before building so it's faster than Spoke Prep. There are other types of spoke preps that are put on only after you build the wheel, but here again it's an extra step so it adds time. Oil is a faster way to go. I hope this answers your question and happy wheel building!

@mariaferradas9564 Год назад

Do rims get bent? Can they be fixed?

@JimLangley1 Год назад

Thanks for the question, Maria. Yes, metal rims (steel and aluminum) can get bent, but not carbon. Depending on how it's made the carbon rim might become dented or break in a serious collision. Metal rims get bent by impacts with rocks, pot holes, curbs, etc. And if you put enough lateral or twisting force on a wheel you can bend it completely out of shape, which is when we say here in the USA that a rim is "pretzeled" or "taco'd." You can usually get damaged rims to keep rolling down the road to get home on a ride by bending them back. But, when a rim is actually bent badly, it won't be a strong as it should be. Steel rims are so strong that if you don't mind the feel of the bend in the wheel and it doesn't cause braking problems or tire issues, then you could keep riding on it so long as it stays that way and doesn't get worse. For aluminum rims, the risk of riding on a bent and bent-back rim is that it could fail. But people do fix them best they can and keep trying to get more miles out of them sometimes. So it really depends on how badly damaged they are and how skilled the mechanic is at working with bends in metal. For carbon rims with dents you can sometimes get the dents out. You always want to look closely at damaged wheels, especially aluminum and carbon for any cracks. These can be difficult to see. Use a flashlight and take your time. If there are cracks that's a sign that the rim may break if you keep riding on it, so it's best to replace the rim. Okay? I hope this is helpful and thanks for watching!!