I'm glad it was clear. Shooting needs less complexity , more understanding from everyone. If we explain how things wok in the shooting world, people will be more confident to join in, and less worried.
Well thank you very much :). The HW95 is a very solid, dependable gun. A true long term machine. The TBT kit I fitted was a lovely improvement too :). Glad you liked the video.
Hello Matt. New subscriber from the US. I've been a airgunner since 1979. You gave good practical common sense advice. Just about everybody scopes there air guns so this lesson was much appreciated. ScottinUS
i like the stalking side, anyone can shoot long distance with practice, but not everyone works on the skill of getting in close, plus the further away you shoot the further you have to go get your quarry 😲 before i go out i zero the scope and set the mag usually 6x and look at a 2" disc/section of the target which is a rabbit head size(i know younger rabbits have a smaller head ) and make a mental note of how many mildots are covered. IE: 3-4 dots at 25m, this gives me a sort of range i am from to target, smaller target is further away. i then stalk in until head fits the scope...
Hi Matt. Thankyou for your footage and advice. I think you've you've emphasised the importance, to set out numerous sights, at varying distances, to see where an air rifle is shooting. It's vital an airgun shooter knows what height, or where his pellet will be at, at varying distances.
It's a useful thing to do, as well you know, because ballistics calculators and apps dont always take everything into account, and nothing works better than practical testing. And lets face it... in comparison with other gun shooting.. airgunning is cheap enough that you can justify 7 shots groups at various distances
One thing not covered here that is especially true with break barrel springers is the "barrel droop" that can grossly affect the "line of sight" with the "line of flight". On many break barrels that I checked in stores, the angle of the barrel is not the same as the cylinder, and you can check by looking down the side while aiming at a light source. Often the reflection of the light on the barrel is NOT the same line as on the cylinder. Really frustrating that they are made this way, and I don't know the reason behind it. If the springer has the "iron sights" mounted on the barrel itself, then barrel droop is of no consequence. But if it is made with dovetails to accommodate a scope, then some serious shimming of the scope may be required. I tested my new "OneLeaf NV400" digital scope (awesome scope) on my Stoeger air rifle, and it shot 18" below target at 20 yards. That's when I observed the barrel droop. After much fiddling with finding a sufficient shimming of the scope, it now shoots with 1/2" groupings at 20 yards, perfect for ratting. Hope this helps with solving other issues one may have with zeroing a scope to a break barrel rifle. Under lever type springers or PCP rifles with barrels fixed to the cylinder tend to not have this issue, but should be checked as well if zeroing a scope is not cooperating.
Very good point. In fact my recently acquired HW80 .25cal (see video's called Hulk(W)80 ) has some droop and I'm playing with a Hawke mouth with droop compensation at the moment...mixed results!
Because the scope is angled down, the pellet trajectory is slightly upwards for some yards when shooting at a target at the same altitude as your firing point. But for its low speed, air resistance and a back-stop it would be in a low orbit of the earth and hit you in the back of your head if you hadn't gone for tea by the time it got back. Google "Ross Dynamics Lab" for a free course on the maths. I'd say "It's not rocket science" - but it actually is.
@@mattscountry363 Can just get a cigarette packet thickness between my scope and barrel ( barrel shroud ) even then I can feel it dragging through the gap slightly.. ideal ...
