"It's pretty gnarly, it's super big." People from all over the world flocked to Mavericks on Thursday as surfers braved the massive waves. MORE: abc7.com/waves-at-mavericks-t...
I almost died out there.. 2 wave hold down that blew out my eardrum, thank god for surf patrol and those waverunners.. however, when you score a good one you feel like Peter Mel the king of Mav's
I lived in nearby Watsonville for 66 years and have never surfed. In 1956, while on a leaky truck innertube, had a harrowing experience with some scary waves 15' tall breaking on my head while I was hanging onto my tube for dear life....finally made it to shore, got out and NEVER went back. Also, about the same time, a 15 year old girl had most of her leg taken off by a shark. I occasionally used to see her walking around on crutches....with one leg. Now, I live about 110 miles north of San Francisco and from my house at 1100', I have a fantastic view of the ocean about one mile away and every clear night watch the sunset, always on the lookout for that elusive 'green flash.' Close enough for me. BHE
I went to Waimea bay Oahu with my buddy. We got a couple boogy boards n some flippers. To our surprise there was no one in the huge waves. But a ton of media and photographers on the beach. I noticed these black flags on the beach and had been hearing about some yearly big surf competition but I've never surfed, nor really boogyboarded. I just had a stupid unrealistic dgaf confidence in myself then at 18 years old. So anyways we go paddling out. The waves looked huge from the shore, buuttt...nothing like they looked when we got out to the break. They were MASSIVE. Literally building size. We got smashed over n over trying to pass the break. Everytime we would get to the break and look up and Literally look at eachother and laugh. Then get hit by a train and flipped 30 times underwater and by the time we came back up we had to paddle super hard just to get back to the break spot. Finally after idk how many times of this somehow we passed the break. We looked at eachother and Literally started busting up laughing so hard. We just sat there floating laughing. Then something happened I will never forget. My back was to the shore, all the sudden I saw my friend being swept out to see and ill never forget the terror in his eyes. But then I started feeling my body being pulled. All at once I realized it wasn't him being swept out, it was me being swept in. I literally turned my head and board and found myself on top of a 50 foot wave. That looks like 100 feet when you are up there I promise. I had no time to think or "do". All I knew was I was at the very top, about to fall off so I just held as tight as I could and put as much weight and pressure on my left shoulder and was screaming down the cliff surely breaking the sound barrier. I literally felt like I was doing 700 mph. I could see the wave curling around me this massive tunnel closing and with no "talent" I just held on. It closed right at the end and I swear the only way to describe it was I got shot out of a massive water cannon. It blasted me out so fast I went skipping across the water. It was the most, terrifying, exhilarating ride of my life. I felt like the coolest person on that beach. And all these local kids who normally hate "howlies" came running cheering me. Screaming how sick that was. And then the lifeguard came running up. Word for word this is what he said "you fuckin idiot. What in the fuck are you two idiots doing? Don't you see all these black flags? You wonder why you are the only two idiots on the waves? Now I have to go save your dumbass friend. You get back in the water I won't save you." He got to my friend who was way out and brought him around the easy way. This was before go pros. I would give anything for a picture or video of that. I know someone on that beach must have recorded it. They were all there for the annual big surf competition happening that day or next day. I was told that was the biggest wave they had ever seen anyone boogy board down and maybe one of the biggest to ever hit Waimea bay. I have no idea how to measure waves but it was much taller than the one here on this video (not that this isn't huge. And dude is much better than me) If anyone knows anyone that films or photos the big surf competition on Waimea bay and has an old video from like 2002 or somethin around there. Maybe 2005 I don't quite remember the year. Anyways it would be easy, no one in the water but 2 idiots on boogy boards and one starting the wave backwards. I will pay $1,000 for that video. It has to be out there.
It's awesome surf in this storm period, no doubt. The waves at Mavericks are known for being big, and this is huge. But judging wave heights is tricky and often debatable. I'd say that the waves I've seen are in the 35-40 ft range, not up to 60 ft as the one guy suggests. They're still massive, but let's try to tone down the hyperbole.
I went to Waimea bay Oahu with my buddy. We got a couple boogy boards n some flippers. To our surprise there was no one in the huge waves. But a ton of media and photographers on the beach. I noticed these black flags on the beach and had been hearing about some yearly big surf competition but I've never surfed, nor really boogyboarded. I just had a stupid unrealistic dgaf confidence in myself then at 18 years old. So anyways we go paddling out. The waves looked huge from the shore, buuttt...nothing like they looked when we got out to the break. They were MASSIVE. Literally building size. We got smashed over n over trying to pass the break. Everytime we would get to the break and look up and Literally look at eachother and laugh. Then get hit by a train and flipped 30 times underwater and by the time we came back up we had to paddle super hard just to get back to the break spot. Finally after idk how many times of this somehow we passed the break. We looked at eachother and Literally started busting up laughing so hard. We just sat there floating laughing. Then something happened I will never forget. My back was to the shore, all the sudden I saw my friend being swept out to see and ill never forget the terror in his eyes. But then I started feeling my body being pulled. All at once I realized it wasn't him being swept out, it was me being swept in. I literally turned my head and board and found myself on top of a 50 foot wave. That looks like 100 feet when you are up there I promise. I had no time to think or "do". All I knew was I was at the very top, about to fall off so I just held as tight as I could and put as much weight and pressure on my left shoulder and was screaming down the cliff surely breaking the sound barrier. I literally felt like I was doing 700 mph. I could see the wave curling around me this massive tunnel closing and with no "talent" I just held on. It closed right at the end and I swear the only way to describe it was I got shot out of a massive water cannon. It blasted me out so fast I went skipping across the water. It was the most, terrifying, exhilarating ride of my life. I felt like the coolest person on that beach. And all these local kids who normally hate "howlies" came running cheering me. Screaming how sick that was. And then the lifeguard came running up. Word for word this is what he said "you fuckin idiot. What in the fuck are you two idiots doing? Don't you see all these black flags? You wonder why you are the only two idiots on the waves? Now I have to go save your dumbass friend. You get back in the water I won't save you." He got to my friend who was way out and brought him around the easy way. This was before go pros. I would give anything for a picture or video of that. I know someone on that beach must have recorded it. They were all there for the annual big surf competition happening that day or next day. I was told that was the biggest wave they had ever seen anyone boogy board down and maybe one of the biggest to ever hit Waimea bay. I have no idea how to measure waves but it was much taller than the one here on this video (not that this isn't huge. And dude is much better than me) If anyone knows anyone that films or photos the big surf competition on Waimea bay and has an old video from like 2002 or somethin around there. Maybe 2005 I don't quite remember the year. Anyways it would be easy, no one in the water but 2 idiots on boogy boards and one starting the wave backwards. I will pay $1,000 for that video. It has to be out there.
If Ion says it's gnarly then it must be gnarly because he doesn't seem to be a hodad or a kook so he must know what he's talking about sad though that he has to share his waves with non-locals looks like a goofy foot though
Meanwhile: California police can no longer ask common question at a traffic stop starting in 2024... Such as what do you think about Uranus as a whole! 🏳️🌈
