7:25 I noticed for me anyway, if you find that it’s taking a lot of light passes with an alumina ceramic rod to get your blade surgically sharp, try pressing just a tad bit harder, nothing too hard, but that seems to always work for me, especially for some reason with my flat grinds. I found that for my convex grinds, the lightest of passes on a white (fine grit) alumina ceramic rod does it, and for my flat grinds, I put a tad more pressure on my alternate passes to get it symmetrically hair cutting sharp both sides of the bevel. Also I found that with a medium grit alumina ceramic rod, it will remove very small chips from a blade given you press hard enough. Take care.
xxbryan715xx same video, just split it as I rambled about two fairly different topics. Someone just leaked the first four episodes of GoT Season 5 - way more exciting.
Cliff Stamp I honestly think last night's episode was very stale and boring. I expected a lot more for a season opener. Don't put any spoilers out there. I want to watch them as they come out so I will only have 42 weeks a year without game of thrones. I couldn't imagine waiting an entire year and then watching almost half the season in 1 day. I need to savor the experience.
this sounds very similar to how i do it. very rarely do i ever need to destress an edge as i just mainly use pretty fine stones to sharpen(1k-2k) after each day i use a knife. when the retention seems to be in decline and i start running into burr formation during sharpening where i have to chase it back and forth is when i generally destress the edge and in general i always find the edge retention to go back up again.
I have found similar results with green "veritas" compound from lee valley tools, on a wood backed, smooth 3" wide leather strop from "knifewear". I believe the veritas is a 0.5 micron blend of both chromium and aluminum oxide.
For a fine shaving/carving edge I always use that light if a pressure on the very tip of the apex. I think of it as playing the fiddle on a strand of spider web. The difference is I only do it this light at the steepest angle. About 55 to 60 degrees inclusive. Then take a not quite so gossamer pass as maybe 40 inclusive. And at 25 to 30, where i jlhave more meat, i use something closer to reglar hamhanded pressure. A few seconds of each different pressure at each different angle rather than 1000 strokes at X.
Henk Hakvoort Leather isn't very abrasive, so it would be different than using an actual abrasive. If you used a polishing compound then it would be similar.
The only that occurs to me is to ask if applying the original apex bevel on a freshly destressed and ground edge bevel would benefit from the same touch? I'm assuming yes, although if you use the plateau sharpening I"m guessing the benefits would be less.
I watched this while doing some sharpening, and I got to thinking what if use Spyderco Medium Triangle Rod first, then the F/UF rod, would speed up the process? Or even just using the tips and not the flats?
Yehoshua Jason D. Stone Not for me, you would be laying down multiple apex bevels and unless you had exceptional angle control it could easily make the process frustrating. Imagine grinding an apex bevel at 20 dps with the medium but actually hitting 21. Now you go to the fine at 20 and until you cut off that 21 nothing happens. I typically apex bevel with one finish only to avoid that.
Cliff Stamp Makes sense. Can I ask how you are using the Spyderco F for setting the apex during regular (not ultra light passes to bring back the edge) sharpening? I was having problems apexing with the rods. I figured out one thing I was doing, which was using those small pocket Gatco Micro-X or Lansky Pocket Crock Stick, as they are 2"x 1/8" and round. But the other rod I was using is a triangle shaped rod, and I was using the flats, and still not having any luck getting the performance I wanted. The difference was push cutting phonebook paper cross grain at a 90/90/90 when I used the diamond rod, and with the ceramic(Aluminum Sintered?) rod, the range was no cross grained cuts, slicing or push, to being able to slice at a 45° cross grained.
Cliff Stamp Actually today I used Spyderco UF rod and had excellent results. As I narrow down the suspected issues I was having, I think that I almost have the issue figured out.
Yehoshua Jason D. Stone I only use it for setting the apex, ultra-light with water . The edge has to be prepped very well before that as the F/UF rods cut very little. I would finish the edge with the Naniwa Aotoshi 2000 or fine before the apex.
Cliff Stamp I have a habit sometimes of when I am trying a new technique or projects, I add another new thing on top of that, makes things complicated when you start having a problem. I just get into a 'let's try this' or 'what if I use this with this' mood.
I have a question. Let's say that you're doing an edge retention run on pine, and are cutting very fast. Now, let's assume there's some sap in the pine, and it isn't that clean in general. Is it possible to hit some rock or similar in the wood itself with such a speed, that when the edge hits it, it produces a spark which ignites the wood? Would the results not be taken into account then?
You sir, are getting risque with your beard sitings. I've also seen an interesting change in how you've been conveying your thoughts and how you are talking to your audience in the last couple videos. Not to dis your earlier videos, but the new style (feel?) is a nice improvement.
Cliff Stamp Bwahaha! I knew a righteous answer was a coming. Ha! I mean, what did the fella think you were going to respond with? Enjoyed the discussion Cliff.👏👊
Cliff Stamp I have been told by an old Irishman that it is better to drink all week and get sober on weekends...makes the work week fly by and the time off last longer.
Kevin Oubre Yeah, there are a lot of spots on the handle, solid working pattern though. Working with the recurve is nice as I have been sharpening simple patterns for awhile.
... I think of the apex as not extending all the way to an infitesimally small point/line at my final bevel angle. I think of it as rounded, at super high magnification. If there is extra metal on there so it is NOT slightly rounded at the apex (on average; of course there are voids and various jagged bits), this is bur. Plain and simple. So basically to finish apexing with a fine, hard stone (not a strop), you may increase the angle quite a bit. But u must use proportionally lighter force because the area of metal u are touching at this point is very, very small.
Very interesting comments w/regard to minimizing carbide tear out. Very cool micrograph pic too. Also, nice beard. This adds further support to my suspicious that you're a wizard.
Ive found that by never thinning and never removing stressed metal and never lowering the edge angle i get optimum razor sharpness and perfect everything hmm sounds familiar from a channel 🤣😂 Yeah light light touchs really helps. It makes sense when thinking about how thin a edge is.
Pressure is one of the things people think about a little, but people often go to heavy at the start which causes a lot of problems in the end. Mainly, just press hard enough to cut.
Has anyone tried testing this concept by starting off with normal strokes and then lightning as you go? My thought is that this would shorten the amount of time needed to achieve these results while possibly still achieving the same end. When using a honing rod, my tendency is to start with normal strokes and lighten from side to side as I go until finally I'm just barely grazing The Edge against the honing rod. This technique definitely gets me very sharp results, but I have not tested for edge retention.
