I now follow this youtuber as the information provided is extremely useful for users of these engines! My experience is that they are great engines, just need a little extra engine TLC (i bought a highly maintained one at 91k (2016), exhaust can at minimal wear, on the new type pressure sensor, no chain tap, had to replace to upgraded injector seals (worn but not failed), oil change set to about 6 month change, only had 1 fault when bought (high intake manifold pressure (carbon build up the cause), coolant good, minor carbon build up in the intake, overall an amazing condition engine. I use an Autel MK808BT for diag. Only downside for this car so far for me is the wheels ( i need to get them refurbed and red paint ones get minor lacquer peel.) my next jobs: oil change, intake clean, gear box oil change, drive belt change, air/fuel/cabin filter change. I changed from an audi BRE 2l TDI, also brill car, lasted 7 years with me (182k, original engine, box, clutch, turbo, etc), only problems i saw with this engine are that the EGR causes DPF blocks (regen and SW code EGR to low to fix), body degrade after 16years (sills). As he says, keep proper maintenance and TLC, these engines go on for many miles and years. Extra TLC is also recommended (people forget gearbox oil changes, it also needs to be done every few years in my experience.)
I own mine since 2021 and never missed a beat. Very pleased of this engine and I'm confident that with frequent maintenance it will last for a very long time. I asked my misses about lubrication, you were so right 😂
Never service your car what the manufacturers recommend, I do service my car 3 times a year, every third service I do a full service Inclouding fuel filter ,,good advice there ,honest advice there
Had my 2.2 10 years from new, 69k on the clock. Had to have new injectors at 49k, managed 66mpg on a 220 mile run at 70mph afterwards, but its now down to 55mph. Never managed to get 10k out of an oil change due to rising oil levels. Just done 1800 miles Berkshire to Scourie in Scotland, it certainly got a work out on that run, 12 hours at 70 mph and lots of gar work in between on the Scottting and Northumbrian hills. Never failed to give the torque when required, but did experience Code P243C ( frequent regen tries), which I put down to the gear work, so the Regen was forever being interupted by changing gear or stopping at 'passing places' on the narrow 'A' roads in the Highlands. During our stay in Inverness, I did add some water and soap solution down the DPF DP sensor pipes to prove they were clear and soften and carbon. The Exh sensor No.1 has had the treatment prior to the holiday as it has a capiliary pipe and banjo bolt which clogs up, so worth prooving clear. Could anybody tell me the difference between the old sensor and new one( part No. Colour of sensor etc. ) If it is removed and engine started, you can easilly tell if its blocked. A simple way to keep the inlet manifold clean would be a nozzle fitted just after the EGR connected to a dosing pot similar to your creen washer and pump, so when at a steady speed and everything is warmed up, give it a squirt of atomised water and a chemical such as washing up liquid. This would wash carbon off, as long the button is not pressed to long each time. I have used this method of cleaning large turbo, air sides in service. Hot water and compressed air.
I recently sold a Mazda 3 2.2 with 163k miles on it. Lovely car and I had the intake manifold Walnut blast cleaned (thanks to this channel) shortly prior to sale. Unfortunately the vacuum pump also started to fail in those last few months so I had to take some money off for the new buyer. I wouldn't put anyone off buying one, but you need to be aware of what you're getting into and warnings to look for.
Thanks for such a honest video. I have both, cx-5 2.2 diesel (130k kms), and a civic type S 2.2 diesel (280k kms) Definetly, the civic hasn't asked for much (in terms of corrective maintenance) compared to the mazda during its lifetime. Being a mechanic myself, I admit the mazda needs more care, but also is a nicer car. Thanks for the great content!
A few months ago my Mazda CX-5 2.2 D with 139k had a few issues, but after leaving it with MrNiceGuy, changing the camshaft and vacumm pump, replacing the sensor (with all mazda's original parts) and fully decarboned, I can say that since the momemt I pick it up (11 days ago) it has been 'super'. The cars response when I accelarate is immediate, and the 2.2 D engine is very smooth. Happy that the car is back on the road and my family as well. 👍🏼👍🏼😊😊
I think the main problem is the people who buy these cars don't know anything about cars. They should maintain, but middle class people just drive them to the ground. That said I think diesel is more trouble than its worth, I mean look at the complexity compared to a simple petrol engine. Smelly and noisy.
Hi so true maintenance is most important Great teacher explains very will thanks I can’t find the clip on how to tighten the injectors correctly on 2.2 can you help me please
It is the manufacturers fault for not including it in the maintenance I think. Just like it is the manufacturers fault if changing oil at their recommended intervals is not enough to keep the engine they made happy. I'm not bashing Mazda, I love my cx-5 and I'm going to have those washers changed but if they inevitably need to be changed at some point, the service instructions should say so.
The 2.2d is not reliable. My 2015 mazda 6 was decarbed by a dealship 4yrs ago. Then the vacuum pump failed and cam shaft was also changed. Then the respiratory on the air con system failed behind the dashboard. Decarb required again this month and i noticed signs the seals are leaking on the fuel injectors not reported by the dealership on dynostic check . Ive been changing the oil every 6k miles instead of the 12.5k miles recommended and filling with vpower fuel. This has made no difference to the longevity of the engine!! I am not happy with this car. When it not being repeared its a great car but that is never in a full year after 5yrs old.i forgot the alloy where changed under warranty, but the replacement have also corroded after warrenty. The paint is so thin ,you have chipped paint all over the car.
It's every manufacturer has problems with diesel engines. But the way to go it petrol these skyactiv petrol engines are amazing high compression and brilliant with high octane fuel and remap, great mpg too
Mazda should have recalled the affected cars and replace the camshafts and injector washers. But they won't do it because of the cost. They only replace vacuum pump because it is a safety feature and could get sued. If you mess up, fix it.... Boohoo for mazda for that And boohoo for the owner of this car. Camshaft is not that expensive, should have changed it and then sell. Instead of selling a lemon now.
I have just bought CX5 with 2.2 Skyactiv-D 175hp 2015 with 155.000km on it. Car runs great and I want to remove the DPF and EGR (I can do it in my country without a problem). Should I do carbon cleaning too or not necessary unless I get an error or issues? Also, does removing the EGR and DPF help the car clean itself and prevent future build-up?
I bought a brand new 2.2 skyactiv diesel 150 bhp, at 4000 miles I got a warning message that dpf was full, it was under warranty obviously, so it went to mazda and they changed the sensor on the exhaust, gave me the car back, after 2 weeks I got the same message again, so it went back and had all it's injectors changed, to be honest I was only doing 5000 miles in a year, but every week the car would do 36 miles in one go on the motorway so it was getting a blast every week, anyway for the next 3 years I didn't have any issues, only the old increase in the oil getting up to the X mark, I now drive a 2.0 ltr skyactiv X which is an amazing engine, that works like a diesel but it's petrol
This engine is indeed not as reliable as vw diesel or bmw engine. I had m6 2013, till 200t km was lovely, but then came the avalanche of problems. Head gasket, turbo because of faulty rivet. After this 20t km was fine and since the head gasket the oil presure and temperature checked frequently, everything fine, but all of sudden piston rod knocking 800km away from home. How can it happen? Very disapointed and have to sell it for bargain.
Hey i have a question, i have a skyactive 2.2 i had some dpf flashing light so i took the dpf for ultrasonic cleaning, replaced the injector washer, cleand the injector, replaced the dpf sensor and the turbo sensor… in aprox 250 km i hand 3 regens and in the end i had the dpf flashing light… oil whas changed every 6000km…. I really need some help…