Hi, nice video. You touched on a problem my car has. Sometimes whenever I stop at the traffic lights, or maybe I'm just sat somewhere with the engine running, the revs will drop from approx 900 rpm to about 300 or 400 rpm. It will feel like the engine is going to cut out, but then the revs go back up to normal. Do you know what this problem is and how I can solve it? I have already changed the spark plugs, ignition leads, coil packs and MAF. Thanks!
You are so right. I have had so many different motors over the years but always got round to changing them. Not this time. I've ve had my 1.6 Eunos1991 since 2012 and will keep her and repair her until the doc takes my license away. Brilliant car.
@@danielskrskr yo man's I'm so jealous and that made me so happy to see that u actually remembered writing that. Bro now I'm jealous and I'm only 12 so I ain't got no money apart from when I get my business up and running once I make enough money from that imms buy myself one and I'm legally allowed to drive it on private property and my dad owns a bunch of private property so I can go drive it about and it will be sick so yeah. You guys are making me jealous asf
I have cured several overheating problems in Miatas where the customer has replaced almont the whole system, including head gaskets. The main cooling fan, while coming on, loses efficency and will start to slow down. Half the air speed equals overheating. This is something to check before spending big bucks.
For #2, get a little box flashlight and glue into the dash pointing at the keyhole. Get in, light it up, see the keyhole, turn the light off. Problem solved.
Yes these problems are common on many high mileage cars, but these are the ones that are most likely to come up on Miatas. And some of them are quite Miata specific (short nose crank, for example)
I just bought a 99 Miata. Top ruined. Interior wet. Needs a valve cover gasket. But it has 106k on the clock and I can’t imagine wasting a mechanically sound car over that.
I had the same experience. I bought a 2001. I knew it was going to need the basics. When I opened the trunk it was like a fish tank. But a new canvas Robbins top, installed by a pro and a little bit of TLC and I have a fine little Roadster.
if you have a top put on, be sure the installer uses the rubber (washers) around the rain rail mounts. Also make sure the rubber strip that runs around the outside of the top is positioned properly. I highly recommend Robbins brand. Great support and warranty. Lastly, a trombone brush is ideal for cleaning the water run off drains that guide the water from the ends of the rain rail down to the ground. You will end up with a bunch of water leaks and mildew. Great little cars. Inexpensive and simple to fix an keep running.
Owned 2 now: 1995 bought new--9 years no problems, 50000 miles with normal tire replacement, brakes, and top was tired with yellowed and cracked plastic top window when I sold it with mysterious miss developing (not fuel filter
or plugs). Never garaged from 1995-2003! No rust, but rarely driven in winter. Bought low miles 1994 in 2015--++ always garaged 3 owner Miata. In my garage no problems in 8 years. Great sports cars!
@@Matthew_M11 I have a ND and am 6.1 my brother also has a ND he is 6.3 we both fit although it's a squeeze for him. For me I have the seat one notch forward.
@@Lee-70ish I went and sat in a NB and no luck. Had to sit in the drivers seat with my shows off and even then my knee had to be against the door so my hand could go all around the steering wheel. Am thinking NC now, even though it wouldn't be as fun to drive as an older one.
@@Matthew_M11 I had a 2000 NB LS, you can fit well in them with a bucket seat and putting a spacer on the steering wheel to bring the wheel closer to your body and not right above your knees
consider a wheel spacer. Frankly, I think it'll be a stretch (no pun) for you but you need the leg room and arm reach otherwise you'll be all out of shape.
Thanks for the video, very nice, mine is a 93 and I got her in 1995 after 23 years, she is still with me. Gotta get some time to replace the rug and install a new deck unit and speakers. My eldest is starting to learn to drive and the first time he drove her, he said "woah" so responsive when compared to my modded 01 Civic. Both cars have a sports suspension but the Civic is faster and yes the Miata is slow but way more fun to drive specially around curves.
After three years of ownership I discovered another blocked drainage hole that no one ever mentions. I started finding loads of water under the fuel flap whenever we got heavy rain. So I got out my trusty drain hole cleaner (a straightened out wire coat hanger that I use to clear the drain holes under the soft top) and sure enough it drains under the lhs rear wheel arch. It was full of crap so water was just sitting. All power to the mx5 miata. Brilliant car, fun, reliable, cheap to run, easy to maintain and repair. Best car I've ever had (and at 56 there have been quite a few!!)
I might get a miata as my first car and after watching this video I think I can now finally sleep at night knowing that I can now properly choose a miata, thanks for the vid man!
Yep, you pretty much got to the biggest offenders. I agree, don't let any of these things scare you from buying one. Most issues are easily fixed. But you SHOULD use these things to bargain with the seller to get a better price when buying one.
It's the same with the TT, mani- and pedicures and wet wipes. Most boys claim that these things are for girls and too gay and so on, but the men that have had a taste of these things appreciate them way more.
My Miata is 13 years old / driving it for 12 years now ...... Which is why I am watching ...... Shes so cozy ......but want to know what I need to look out for ...... I Love this car Thanks
Some advice on your car idling - I had a Mazda 6 that would have the idle dip down whe coasting in neutral, and would idle high at a stop. When I pressed the clutch in, the car would idle normally. This turned out to be the neutral switch - basically, the car didn't know it was in neutral when you release the clutch, so it wasn't getting any fuel since it cuts fuel off in gear when you release the gas (it doesn't need gas to keep the idle up because the car is moving obviously). I think these cars may have neutral switches - they're cheap, so that could fix your idle problems if they're as I described above.
The biggest problem I have with my '04 Mazdaspeed NB Miata is finding enough time, and lately good weather, to drive it. It has 140+k miles, 70 k when I bought it three years ago.. I've replaced/upgraded' - timing belt & front main seal @ 90k miles - radiator @ 100k upgrade - vacuum relay, ("bog relay") @ 100k - both headlights w/oem clusters, (very hard to find driver side in the 04 'speed because of turbo piping,) one was broken, @ 100 k - same with fog lights, @ 90 k - replaced torn vinyl top w/black fabric @ 110 k upgrade - clutch master/slave cylinders & replaced clutch line w/stainless @ 120k upgrade - rubber flex brake lines w/stainless @120k upgrade - OEM muffler w/Helmholtz stainless (Goodwin Racing) @140 k upgrade Thanks for the tip on water in the rocker panels. I'm rarely out in the rain, and the car goes in the barn for the winter, but I'll check for proper drainage. Zoom Zoom!
I drove my 1994 Miata for 11 years and 160K miles, and apart from normal wear, e.g. brakes, shocks, tires, top and interior, all of which I did replace, but which replacement was either regular .maintenance or else not strictly necessary, there were very few problems. The only unusual, or as it turned out in my case, USUAL problem I had was the clutch slave cylinder, which failed twice, almost stranding me both times. It was not an expensive fix however, at only about $125 each time.
Nice video. Just a few comments, a new convertible top takes ten years (minimum) off the appearance but I don't recommend you DIY, it's possible but not fun. With respect to the idle, ours was rough and getting poor mileage, I replaced the O2 sensor and the idle smoothed out and the mileage improved substantially. They really are great vehicles, we'd hate to part with ours.
Ahaha I completely agree with you on the drastic change of appearance after replacing the top. After I replaced one top with the frame out on one of my miatas, the top replacement went very smooth with my other one; the only problem was the rain rail was cracked. Replacing the top with the frame in the car is signifigantly easyer.
I've replaced a top on my NA and it was definitely the most difficult DIY project I ever tackled with a "5 wrench difficulty" in the manual when a supercharger was listed as an easy 3. My big hands were to large to fit into pillar and so a tiny ratchet was purchased as well.
I have the rough idle and poor gas mileage. Both improved when I replaced the plugs and wires, but not completely. I was suspecting the 02 sensor might be the other culprit. Thank you for mentioning that.
Well made informational video, accurate description of problems. Apart from rust isues, if you already have them, there is nothing which can't be repaired easily. Especially because parts are still available and relatively cheap, even for the NA model. I was lucky to find a NA which had been cared for very well and all holow spaces had been treated with an anti rust agent quite early in the car's life, so it pretty much rust free apart from a little spot on one of the rear fenders.
3rd year of ownership. After a while where I was unemployed and couldn't maintain the car up to my liking. If been tackling some issues that were long bothering and it's funny how their are all in the list. In the past months I've managed to replace all bushings on the front and a bad wheel bearing and a bad ball joint. The ride it's perfect now. I had the head shield rattle a couple years ago but it suddenly stopped. I dunno if the muffler guy gave it a hand when I needed to weld a small tear on the exhaust. Replaced at home both clutch cilinders and the clutch feels just right. And now I need to tackle the common cas and valve gasket leaks. Replace the shifter seals and boot as the boot leather is also ripped and brittle. As long as a wiring problem that is blowing my tail fuse that powers daylights, dashboard background lights and the left night taillight. (Weird combination of components in one circuit). Also replaced both alternator belts early on. And had at one point the tick. But an oil change with a little additive made it way better. Had some waterlines getting ripped. Got new ones and new termosthat and flushed the water circuit never had heating problems again. I also have a rip in my driver's seat seam as mentioned in the video lool and a rip on the back plastic window by the seams and leaks on the softop seals on the door windows. I'm also not very experienced with cars but I'm an adept of DIY and I have tons of fun following tutorials and fix those issues my self in my spare time... So far never had a replacement part cost me triple digits. So there's that going in my favor. I guess every single one of those problems are like clichê by now in the Miata comunity
Good job! I've dailied mine for the past 22 years. A few additional things - fouled plugs can cascade into bad wires and take a coil pack with them in short order... Shifter turret oil needs to be changed regularly, and cars with lifter tick (esp in the hands of uninformed sellers) can be a great negotiating tool... Once bought one with really bad lifter tick that a "master" ASE tech told the owner needed a new engine because... "all 4 rods were making noise..." (and that was the first thing the seller told me when he said he didn't want to start it up so I could hear it run...) I wonder how long your yellowing radiator lasted... By the time they reach that shade, they are as unpredictable as a grenade with a loose pin...
This was really an excellent video...much better than I was expecting! A couple quick things...when you first talk about rocker rust, I couldn't tell if you were clearly explaining the rubber downtube from the water collection trays (for the convertible top) which plug with dirt and need to be opened up occasionally. I wasn't sure because actually they extend down below the rockers and when they plug, they back up to the collection trays up high, not in the rockers. The rockers usually rust from dirt thrown into them by the tires. And about that soft top rubber bladder that funnels water to the side collection trays...you mentioned that it could leak. You know it's leaking if the trunk starts to accumulate water. About your idle issue....here's something to check. That big plastic tube that runs from the air filter to the air/mass sensor (about 2' long, runs right across the front of the motor). It can develop a hairline crack in the corrugations from either repeated air filter installations or more likely clumsy handling by a mechanic replacing the timing belt or water pump. A crack in that tube will give you intermittent idling issues like you describe. Hope that helps!
You are correct, sir. The roof drains clog up high, right where the roof meets the.body. The "wells" can hold a few inches of water, after which it drains down into the carpet behind and below the seats. Dont ask me how I know. It took towels, a heater and a couple days to get it completely dry, but there was no damage to the computer beneath the carpet behind the seat other than some surface rust.
Thank you! I've recently inherited one from my grandparents and currently its not road worthy but i'm looking at tackling each of these issues one at a time so thanks for the info!
I was quite surprised when I got my 1990 NA and the AC vents don't sag got it with 154k miles interior is clean asf only con was it had 2 blown shocks which I replaced fairly quick with a set of coilovers
Nice video - I have a 91 that I acquired with a friend last fall. Been working on suspension stuff now, and I need to deal with some oil leaks. DEFINITELY a lot coming from valve cover, and when I have that off I'll check timing belt etc... Would love to clean up all of the oil gunk so I can see what else is leaking. I fixed the idling issue already. Can't wait to get this thing back on the road! Oh, and rust - I hope to take a welding class this fall...
To fix low idle/idling problem I found that removing the oil sending unit (located left of the oil filter under exhaust manifold) and cleaning it with brake cleaner/isopropyl/starting fluid helps a lot. I have a 1990 Miata (it’s my moms lol) and I’ve redone the timing three times so I’m afraid I have a short nose crank issue also. Having any sort of exhaust leak will also cause issues with idling too, mine had a bad leak where the cat was removed and terribly rewelded. Anyhow. Awesome video. Cheers! 😄🍻
Great review! Verbal bullet points and very easy to follow and understand. I have a na short nose engine and this review of common problems was very useful. Keep the clips coming cash!??😚
What a good video - it’s well presented, touches on all the issues one needs to know about, and balanced in its judgment. Thanks for doing such a good job!
Good job covered the majority of issues. I've had my '90 for 27 years and the only items I've needed to replace that were not maintenance/normal wear were the clutch slave and top. Given mine is garaged kept and only has 70k miles, but still pretty remarkable for a 30-year-old car. If I were going to buy a used NA, I'd budget for full fluid changes i.e. coolant, engine oil, pwr steering fluid, clutch/brake fluid, transmission, differential. Also, replace all hoses/belts and the fuel filter. May also want to change spark plug wires depending on age.
I've owned an NA and currently an NB and done all my own work on them and while not a car for Canadian winters they are inexpensive to own and operate. I store mine on axle stands each winter. Parts are readily available and quickly shipped out especially from outfits like RockAuto in Wisconsin. Most fun for the money!
Thank you for the info I'm a 62 yr old woman trying to buy a Miata for my son who used to have one, got sick ( schizophrenia) his landlord scared him into getting to getting rid of it. Real jerk. Anyway I m trying to get him another.i think his was 92 So it's good if I learn a bit about them. Thanks.
I'd say you just about covered everything. Thanks for the tip about the heat shield. I have a 2001 and I'll bet I'm hearing that rattle. As you know there are some rebuild tricks for the dashboard "eyeball" loosening. My car is just at 109,000 mils so it has a way to go before I start seeing too many problems. I highly recommend investing in a custom car cover. Thanks for the video and th reminder that these are cars that can be kept running for a long time. Especially if you do most of your own work.
These little problems don't even seem bothersome. I'm looking into getting my first car and I've wanted a Miata ever since I could remember. This would probably be a great first car for me.
Excellent job young man! Im retired from 45 years in the BodyShop biz. Im thinking of taking a clean 1 owner, low miles, Red 1992 Miata as trade-in for a 2009 Mustang Convertible GT-500 i Built while quarantined... (Miata is One of the few cars ive never owned) Very informatve video. Thank You
I own a 1991 Miata and this is accurate. My drains got clogged so bad that I actually had water get through my floor and flood the bottom of my car. Luckily I am a mechanic so my friend and I got busy fixing it but it still made my car smell like mold for a solid month. This is an accurate video. Luckily I have avoided the rust problem.
Same. Took a 1/4 lb. of leaves, twigs and sludge out of both of the front fender drains. Took a bit less out of the two roof drains, but only after they clogged and put some water on the floor behind the seats. Both the fender and roof drains can be difficult to locate and access. I have the Haynes manual, but still needed to watch a couple videos.
Informative video, but If I may add $0.02 I'd suggest: Change out the wimpy OEM horn! (Unless you have a death wish) Smaller cars are like motorcycles, lots of other drivers just don't see them! People will pull out of parking lots or make left turns in front of you like you're invisible. After a few close calls in my '99 NB I installed a horn set from a 1980 Cad Eldorado... gets their attention every time! Lots of Crown Vics and full-size GM horns in your local boneyard for cheap and the stock relay will handle the extra current load. BTW, I'm originally from CT (New Britain) but lived in NV since 1975. Lots of top-down weather out here!
Thank you for making this video. You are spot on with these issues! I have a 1991 Miata and it is a fantastic car. It ‘s amazing to drive and very inexpensive to run. I would highly recommend this car!
coolant reroute is good always. Leaving the lights popped up will help dissipate more heat from the engine bay than aftermarket 'hi-flow' turn signal intakes or whatever you find for sale. If your slave or master cylinder breaks, change both of them even if one part is fine!
Buying one is the right choice, it’s the best car I’ve owned and I never plan on getting rid of it. Take care of it and it’ll take care of you, and they’re also very easy to work on
Way easier than modern cars and especially easier than german stuff. There’s also a huge community (like this one) to help you learn about working on them!
Martin, it's like any used car, you need to really examine the car before you buy it. If you're not good with cars, take it to a dealer and have them look at it.
I live in Japan bought a pretty well maintained 94 with add-ons, upgrades and replacements with records, however not used for 3 yrs. Had to rebuild power windows mechanism, wiper mechanism, washer lines. With this age the window nylon bushings disintegrate and then the cables go. NOT an easy fix but I did it. If you replace the rubber shifter boot go ahead and put in a rebuild kit w/ washer & bushing: cheap and easy. It had a very nice VINYL top with Hard rear window plus a pop on hard top. I'm a geezer having more fun than my hot rod teenage years (with the car) Good vid man.
lifter ticking. just do rapid oil changes and add Lucas. this fixed mine. Also replace the motor mounts. they go bad and should be replaced every few years
Proud owner of a 93 LE, sad that I got a bit of mold on my beautiful red carpet cause the rear drains got clogged, I unclogged them but now I gotta try to get rid of the mold
I have a 1996m edition I have had for a year now and I love it it rattles a bit and the valves tick a bit but not all the time . It has a 127000 miles on it I hope I get a million more lil
If you live in a state that has snow or a state near the sea: grease up your panels good. Plus always run a hardtop in bad weather if you can. I already lost one NA to rust, but I live in the alps. They are getting more expensive each year and rust free chassis come at a premium and we're slowly approaching used ND priceranges for low milage NAs
Hey man, just watched your video and just wanted say that you did a great job and that your MX-5 is looking fine. B) Keep up the car and the good work!
the color of your radiator can help you know when to replace it, his was brown so he used change it anytime soon the brown shows that its old and that the plastic has aged and is dry
Bro, just looked at my first one. This video helped. Seen the cam angle sensor leak and cam cover. Possibly rear main, car is to low I can’t get under it 😂 I think I’ll buy it anyway. But I think it has the short nose engine 😬
Very very good video had some problems with my 91' MX5 and managed too solve it using your video. I subbed you and turned on the bell. I am a pretty new channel but i am planning too do some mx5 videos myself. Greetings from Germany keep up the great work
Your videos have helped me so much I'm going to look at a 01 mx5 special edition in green. Got him down to 4k but ima try to get it for 3800 when I go to purchase it if it looks good
Short nose crank isn't the problem, it's the fact that the crank pulley bolt loosens without proper maintenance which causes a mangled keyway. As long as you loctite the bolt after you replace the belts you will be perfectly fine.
the idle drop is easy fixed by a ecu remap, mine dropped rpm to much when stopping at a red light for example. but with an ecu remap it is a lot better
I cut a hole on the lower part of the rocker panel of my car while I did some work on fixing that nasty rust. I will keep those holes cause I seen how much nasty rust builds up in there. maybe I will cut a hole in the front rocker too to remedy this issue
There's one more. Replace the reverse light switch to the updated part. It's what keeps the transmission from getting stuck in reverse. And a pain in the ass because it can happen at a red light.
