I moved to El Paso in 1976 and went to the McIntosh clinics at Howell Electronics and had my amplifiers tested by McIntosh. Still have those stickers on my equipment. I bought a used MC275 from them that I still have and listen to daily sitting right next to me. I paid $360 for it and have the original receipt. I also bought a brand new C26 preamp from them that I use daily in my home theater. I drive the MC275 with a C20 preamp that I bought at an estate sale for $20 a few years back and had to repair. In 1996 I had the money to buy Klipschorns and found them in Albuquerque for $3600 with free shipping and no tax and took that to Howell and told them that I wanted to buy locally from them and they told me to take-a-hike so I did and bought them from Albuquerque and I still have them using with the C26 and a MC2205. Howell Electronics was the most arrogance stereo shop I ever stepped foot into and after that 1996 event with the Klipschorns swore I would never step foot in their store again - and I never did. They finally went out of business a few years back and I never went back once. Good riddance to Howell and their arrogance.
I bought a new Marantz 2385 (Uncle Steve's in Newark was blowing them out for $700 +/-...) around 1981, and by 1994 or so, the controls had become noisy and intermittent, and the display bezel was yellowed and cracking, so I decided to replace it with a MAC 4100, that was perhaps already 2-4 years older, being built around 1978. The controls were quiet and reliable, and remained so until I took it out of service around 2000. When I see what 2385s are fetch'n on the market these days, I'd have to say that a 4100 is a much better value.
I understand what you are saying. Generally, the McIntosh equipment is built with all together better parts. I compare the lesser equipment to a cheap car. The car may have a motor and transmission that will go 250,000 miles but if the door handle breaks off and the windows won't roll up and in my case with a Honda, the left-hand blinker/lights on/off/high-low/etc lever breaks off, you can end up with a real problem. Every component matters if the equipment is going to last decades, right down to the quality of the knobs.
I spy an HP 3580A LF SA on your bench. I just got one myself, and would really appreciate a video showing tips on how to use it. Would that be possible? Also have a MAC 4100 that needs TLC, so thank you for this video.
Note that the 4100 has McIntosh's "PowerGuard" circuit, which is active when those red LEDs blip on. PowerGuard continually compares input and output waveforms, and there's any difference in the output wave shape (it starts to edge toward clipping) the driver stage of the amplifier automatically reduces its gain just enough to keep the amp from distorting. With PowerGuard, basically you cannot get the amp to clip. It's great for saving your tweeters when the music gets loud. :D
Thinking about purchasing a MAC 4100 Serviced and re capped Jeff from El Paso I know your experience with the old Howell Electronics Store. I spent a lot of money there buying MC intosh and Klipsch corn walls.
Hi Jeff, The last time I went into Howell was 1996 when I was buying Klipschorns and told them what I could get them for from ABQ with free shipping and no tax and wanted to know if he could do the same. He was an ass about it, as usual, and when I walked out, I swore I would never step foot in that business again - and I never did.
That may be but considering that PS ripple is at 120 Hz for full wave rectifier it may be beating with 120 Hz. The "bouncing" also has to do with max power level and it is true that ripple in the PS increases at about the point of max power in most amplifiers. Thanks for the observation and comment.
Its sad to hear about your time with Howell Electronics I spent a lot of money there when In was younger. I believe Ron at sound quest got the Mc Intosh dealership after Howell Electronics I still have Mc Intosh C26 MC2100 Mr77 Bowers 704 Series Two Speakers Marantz CD5005 I knew Dan Maynard who had some run around with them also.
I know I was sort of rambling about them from so long ago. I know Ron from Sound Quest and have bought several thing from him also - good fellow. We both know there can be, sometimes, a funny arrogance in audiophiles. All is good and thanks for your comments.
Hey ElPaso! Thanks very much for this, it’s very informative! Any tips on accessing/cleaning the Pots on the 4100? Thanks in advance for any help! Cheers!! -S.
I just barely remember this unit and I don't remember anything unique about the pots and switches. I know some switches are enclosed and difficult to access and clean. I use the DeOxit brand of cleaners and they seem to do a good job. Thanks for your comments.
This may be a long shot.... I have the 4100. It's great but sometimes there is a staticy low level buzz coming from my right speaker. This only happens when the 30k knob is moved from centre. I have no idea where to begin. Do you have any tips? Any help would be appreciated.
No doubt I would choose the 1900. I bought a used one for my daughter well over 20 years ago and it is still working. Every tube in it has the McIntosh logo on it except one which is a Telefunken. Also the 1900 tuner is vacuum tube and even uses the Nuvista type tube 6CW4. The 4100 is nice and more modern looking but it isn't going to last like the 1900.
