I am a full-time trader. Support to earn extra income every day. *** If you need support for daily trading signals, or if you want to copy from the ad, you can open an account using the following link. + If you want effective trading signals, register with DOO Prime:my.dooprimeapec.com/vi/links/go/33957 + If you want to copy from ad, register with Exness:one.exnesstrack.net/a/cneq3igfzi *** Note: + After registering, please contact Ad for support in joining the signal group. and install copy. - Support: facebook.com/khac.hung.1291/ - Support phone number: 0978346963
Tip: if you use kerf cuts to make curves, fill them wit a blend of glue and sawdust. Also use that same blend for biscuit joinery. Bass can make unfilled cavities resonate at harmonics causing barely audible weird notes and buzzing.
Guys, get realistic, he is woodworker without any knowledge or understanding of speaker box design. There is no calculations or design involved. He's got time and makes box to look cool. Even with this concept if he faced that speaker outside and maybe added tweeter, it could sound acceptable for oversized cheap bluetooth speaker!
Still credit him for the mindless 1.2mill views. I came here looking to find a cool sub box for my truck but will keep looking further as this sounds crap
Boy we are lucky to have so many speaker experts right here in the comments section. I can tell these people have spent many hours watching RU-vid videos diligently memorizing polysyllabic words to wow us with. Great build by the way. That was almost an afterthought. Sorry, I am still in awe of this vast vault of speaker wisdom that I have found.
I am no pro, but I can still see bunch of mistakes there as well. I didnt read what others told is wrong. But overall it's interesting build. Obviously it's made for fun and not for sound quality, and that is what everyone here should consider before criticising the build 😊
Me gustó tu proyecto pero creo que se vería mejor sin las mallas protectoras, se vería más imponente, y puedes hacer una prueba tapando las salidas bass reflex creo que mejoraría el sonido. Saludos
if you were to add 1/2 or 12mm thick piece of wood to your miter saw fence your saw blade would cut completely through your stock cleanly without you having to tear the last bit and sand off.
or just lay off the coffee and let the saw do it's job, completely. Or, adjust the fences properly because out of the box the set up is not 100%, as evidenced.
Rei das cagadas né, pq com certeza essas caixas não tem um projeto e são feitas de qualquer maneira, apenas tentando imitar uma caixa que foi bem projetada. Em todos quase todas as caixa consigo citar diversos erros de projeto, cancelamentos, turbulências, medidas que não condizem com oq se propõe. Infelizmente a enganação come solta nesse canal. Sem falar que olha a besteira, caixas bluetooth só pra graves. 🤔 Os circuitos utilizados não consegue criar uma rede de comunicação igual as JBLs e outras marcas boas, então vc liga ela e escuta só graves, pq nem subgrave deve ter nelas.
@@MAZZAHandmade realmente, ate um certo momento achei bonita, diferente, mas chegou no final botou esses negócio verde ai na frente ficou uma presepada e o som nao ficou nada legal, me em si o modelo da caixa ,os dutos sao legais, mas não curti no final
Nice CNC and woodworking skills but as a bass cabinet I'm afraid it won't be a huge succes. Please keep in mind that with a horn loaded speaker the lower frequency is determinated by the length of the horn opening. So with a guessed opening of less than 60cm/24" it won't do anything lower than 150Hz.
@@zainrei4917 Yes, but it has to be a proper exponential horn. There's also a alternative methode; when you have a pair of them you can extend the frequency an octave down by coupling them.
@@v.scente exponential horns use a phenomenon called impedance transformation to better couple the membrane to the resistance of the air and thus create higher efficiency. But it's one of the most difficult to design loudspeaker enclosures out there.
The making of the cabinet was really satisfying and he's an incredibe craftsman. So far the good. MDF? Nope And slapping in a 30 W (Max) Onkyo speaker which is a mid/bass at best but made for sealed enclosures, maybe ported but certainly not a backloaded horn. A backload horn needs a really big and stiff bass driver. Also the efficiency of these types of speakers are incredibly low so you need to put in a lot of Watts to get some efficiency. If you put a speaker like this in a car for instance, you will no bass at all. Put this driver in a smaller enclosed housing and it will sound much much better. Also the absence of tweeters will make it sound really strange this way.
Unlike ordinary wood, MDF (medium density fiberboard) is temperature stable. As long as he seals it, inside and outside, to prevent any sort of humidity, warping will not happen. He will still want to avoid any incidental spills, of course, but warpage due to seasonal temperature changes are not going to be a problem. In making home furnishings out of a solid wood, especially those with an open grain structure, you will want to use no glue and fasteners that will provide a little play any time you are joining wood at a different orientation in order to prevent cracks and splitting. A table surface should be glued and joined with dowels or biscuits, and sealed after finishing to prevent water damage on the surface.
The MDF would be for density of walls. Not moisture resistance. Also $th order bandpass with a folded horn for port??? Not viable. Vas of speaker looks to be about 10 - 15% of total horn volume at best. Simply put if he thinks it sounds good he's tone deaf.
Very cool project and thanks for sharing it. I assume that you know that it is a very hard design to get right, in terms of sub-chamber sizes, angles, ratio’s, expanding radiuses, corner profiling and many more factors. Bose and others went through many acoustical engineering designs and prototypes to get something that didn’t sound bad. However, even when you get the math and resulting basic design “right”, you have to contend with massive phase and other problems due to diffraction, nonlinearities and other issues. BTW, even adding cloth in place of that green plastic will help with some of the mid-highs issues.
I agree with what he's saying, also I'd like to add that with the design you went with the efficiency of the speaker is extremely important because sound has to travel thru the box in such a way that it's not directly reaching your ears like most other loudspeakers would. Basically your box is the speaker. Looking at your box and amplifier, I would recommend one that was possibly larger in diameter or cone height, that doesn't have a very restricted spider, with a low impedance coil and a fairly powerful magnet . Very nice design. I used to build speakers and amplifiers for almost 10 years, and one of the hardest things I had to learn was to balance design with my ability to make all the small details perfect. Sometimes the simplest ones sounded good, however seeing your box I see much potential. If I would change anything from the box itself it would be removing the plastic you used for the port, which may be adding a pitch to the bass that's unpleasant, and like Andrew said using cloth for the larger ports. Wonderful video.
Essentially you've made a double scooped horn which is purely a PA long throw design for mid bass/sub, the problems are these designs are very finicky. The horn needs a very linear increasing throat area your design is all over the place pretty much negating the effects of horn loading. You'd get way better sound from that driver in a basic design like sealed or ported... its not a driver designed for PA work! Are you doing any predesign using software simulation?
Agreed... Also the Short baffles and rigid design (added in all those ribs) does not allow for resonance to emerge from the wood. Big wooden panels only restrained at the edges make a natural resonance amplifier. Been building loudspeaker cabinets for over 40 years. Large resonance chambers make nice sound and you can tune each chamber for the resonance spike that you want. My designs incorporate 3 - 5 resonance chambers depending on application, this design is close to something I might do, but the small baffles and angles would change. It is not necessary to create 45 degree corners to guide the sound waves. That defeats the point of baffle resonance. These designs in the videos are just wave-guides catching the very low frequencies and re-integrating them into the wood, but no resonance is occurring so the sound level at different frequencies will be very unbalanced. The first chamber ( where the speaker face is mounted) needs to be a lot deeper. Put that one 5 inches deeper and will improve a lot. The first resonance chamber is the most important and this one is too shallow. I know lots about natural wood resonance and this ain't it...
@@alldayadventures5418 VERY new to building speaker enclosures. With a build like this (assuming the baffle chamber was more suitable) is there any point in having the splitting ports? Does this simply increase the total port length and change the tuning, or would they normally be made at different lengths to offset the wavelength?(to make the sound smoother). Any info would be greatly appreciated. I intend to re-purpose older unloved speakers into something more usable. Cheers
@@mcgriffith2727 Before Software.... before speaker design Math was even invented... We used our ears. If you take any 2'x 1' piece of wood, and secure it on 2 sides. Tap a small hammer across the board, and listen for the different sounds the wood produces at different distances from the secured holdings. Then secure that same piece of wood on all 4 sides. Listen how it changes and start your design there. Must learn about the wood first. I am about to make a very bold statement here... I no longer use ply-wood for speaker builds. I have never used compressed particle wood...(worse crap) Now I use Pine. Pine has many low frequency resonance points that I like to use. Also keep the design simple. 2 - or 3 large chambers of different shapes and volume will be step 2. Manufactures use compressed wood, because it is cheap, and it sounds cheap too. Flat and struggling. I build the most awesome sub-woffers with 8" drivers. Do not need anything bigger than that. Plus no flappy muddy sound. Placement of the speak in the room is very important. If speaker sits in a corner, or high up on a shelf, or in the middle of the room, all these will affect how your speaker needs to be designed. Lots to this...
Fun watching the build. It hurt my soul that you didn’t add any caulk or acoustic adhesive to any of the joints. There is probably much more noise than need be
espectacular lo que haces,...pero hay detalles que se pueden mejorar en la terminación, por ejemplo, yo biselaría los bordes de la caja (bordes redondeados), esa rejilla verde no cuadra para nada. haces un marco de madera con una tela negra, que encaje donde esta la rejilla. esos tubos de plástico naranja, hay que pegarlos bien por que te van a empezar a vibrar, también puedes intentar alisar sus bordes con calor o puedes comprarte unas trompetas(instrumento musical) de juguete, son muy comunes para fiestas de cumpleaños en jugueterías, y los tornillos hay que hacer algo con esos tornillos...un saludo
Sometimes, a convoluted design, really isn't necessary, as Mini horns and Mini transmission lines, simply don't work. It's called physics! I'm sure it would sound great in a simple sealed enclosure, or a simple bass reflex!
Probably reproduce a guitar solo nicely. Probably better with simple fabric covered grill eliminating any unwanted distortion. Better job than I could ever do. 👀
You need to adjust the depth stop on that miter saw. That way it'll cut all the way thru the material at the back stop. A 2 second adjustment to save hours of sanding.
Replacing the blade with a sharp one might be the more important thing to do, then correct the stop so it cuts the wood and doesn’t require tearing the pieces apart. A new CNC bit while he’s at it.
You can afford a CNC router... but not the right size blade in your crosscut/mitre saw? Looks like you need the next blade size up. It is very annoying to have to deal with cleaning up your messy cuts every time... The use of a stop block on your mitre saw with a sacrificial fence could also help with this issue, by pushing the end point of your cut out further as well as assist you in making repeat cuts. If you did this modification, you could get by with the undersized blade. Beyond that, looks like a fun build!
Your skema same with box from indonesia bro, the name is box dragon from brewog audio sound system indonesia, i hope you can take referensi from indonesia skema box sound system..
This is a 6th order enclosure. Tuning of the front and rear chambers is very specific. But, by looking at the design and the driver chosen, none of this tuning has been done which is why it performs like utter dog shit.
@@NewClassic2 Я не понимаю вас. Вы сомневаетесь в чём-то? Тогда спросите прямо: есть ли опыт, или нету, какое место в мироощущении занимают звуки, или что вы хотите спросить или утвердить? Уже по тому как вы утверждаете, что вера в чудо акустического оформления, якобы моя вера, я чувствую что вы где-то плутаете.
This looks like a hi tech version of klipch LaSkalla folded horn also a very strong chest pounder when parred with jbl 15" edge wound coil rare earth magnet subs.
Love your work! New Subscriber here! Thanks for posting. Your content helps inspire me for my own content on my channel! ❤ keep up the wonderful work 🙌 hope we can be YT buds one day ✌
You could have used a larger full range speaker for that. I believe that's only 4inches? Maybe 6inches could fit on that. Great inner design and esthetics but you can still maximize the power of that amplifier.. I think that design can also be used for sub woofers..
Looks almost exactly like my CF design I built for Miguel's friend's Acura with a single MMats 10'' in Salinas back in 2002. I always wondered if my CF design would show up again somewhere.
Theo mình thì bạn nên tỉ mỉ hơn ở khâu lắp ráp, vì đã làm rất công phu ở phần thiết kế khuôn mẫu, nên phần hoàn thiện cần chỉn chu hơn thì sẽ càng hoàn hảo: các chỗ ghép nhau của gỗ, làm cho chuẩn, mịn hết mức (video khác mình thấy ghép không khớp góc độ, video này thì khoan bắt vít bị mẻ 1 miếng nhỏ). Theo mình thì cái lưới mica không đẹp, nên làm lưới đen hoặc các kiểu lưới như kiểu loa Marshall chẳng hạn. Và video thì nên tinh giản bớt 1 số bước cho nó gọn, vì dài quá người xem cũng ko có thời gian theo dõi hết. Ví dụ phần cắt gỗ, chỉ cần cắt 1 tấm, sau đó là đủ bộ. Lắp ráp cũng vậy, gọn nhưng người xem hiểu được các bước là đủ, có bước cần làm chậm (ví dụ ráp mạch vô). Hiện tại video của bạn làm giống như kiểu quay một video dài, và tua nhanh. Theo thiển ý của mình thì làm vậy không cuốn hút lắm, phải làm có chỗ chậm, chỗ nhanh. Nếu thấy góp ý của mình không cần thiết thì bạn hãy bỏ qua nhé, mình thấy bạn làm các loại loa rất sáng tạo, chỉ là về độ tỉ mỉ , hoàn thiện thì chưa cao nên mình có ý kiến như vậy thôi. Vì thường sản phẩm nào cũng vậy, phần hoàn thiện sẽ cần chỉn chu, tỉ mỉ, mất nhiều thời gian, nhưng mà làm tốt thì sản phẩm sẽ càng đẹp.
Sería genial si la un última tapa la pusieras de acrílico. Para que se mire la parte de laberinto Me encantan tus proyectos felicitaciones sigue con ese contenido 🤜🤛💪🎊🎊
