I wasn't expecting to gain so much knowledge from this video based on the title, but the amount of detail and the way it is organized is excellent. Thank you fpr sharing your knowledge. Great job!
I'll chime in for the Dallas DS18B20 1-wire sensor as well. I made small PCBs that chain together with cheap phone cable to monitor the plumbed areas of an out building. The Arduinos turn on heaters via TTL controlled power strips.
As always, excellent video!!! Those that give a thumbs-down, probably can't spell Electronics! I was surprised you didn't include the popular *DS18B20*
@b gg I've seen them used routinely to regulate tighter than +- 1 degree F. Looking at the datasheets both the DHT22 and the DS18B20 are accurate to within +- .5 C, and can be programmed to 12 bits of resolution, so not sure what you are talking about.
nice video, im using the 22 these days, but 25 years ago had a project using the LM35, i had to design n calibrate a current to voltage circuit, run that into a microcontroller, with code witten in assembly, then send the values out as 8 bit serial data, with a pseudo RS232 transmission, (no uart),.. just clocked... easy peasy today,.., thx again for the videos., cheers.
Thanks you for another great tutorials. This is especially timely because I was discussing using temperate sensors with Arduino as part of a home automation project just a few hours before receiving the notification. This saved me a lot of time. Thanks again.
Another nice option is the DS18B20, an accurate digital sensor that only needs power and 1 signal line, you can run many sensors in parallel, power can even be omitted when you use parasitic power. Definitely worth a look. Also the way 3D printers measure temperatures with a thermistor could be examined. No mention of multi-sampling to reduce noise and increase accuracy?
Great video and very well explained. Maybe a futher addition with the legendary 18DS20 sensor. I've been working with this for years and it's very reliable.
whoa.. hot stuff today!!! at 10:36 you said to attach the two pull up resistor to ground and showed them to positive.. Since you called them pull up's I imagine the schematic was correct you just said ground when you meant power.. outstanding.. I am going to make a temp humidity sensor for indoor and out soor temp sensing.. this was a good one to get ideas from.. thanks Bill..
I have a project in mind that will record the temperature on 3 areas of my gaming computer. The output will be displayed on a small OLED display mounted on the glass panel of the computer. The fact that this setup will be independent from the computer itself will give the gamer access to the system temperature without having to count on software running on the computer screen.
your need to use the MCP9808 so you can identigy the 3 different sensors. you could use any of the others but with the use of a i2c display the code should be easier.
One other thing, I picked up one of those M5STICK-C devices. It is a PICO ESP32 device with built in OLED Color Screen, on board lipo battery and several built in sensors. It also has a GROVE connector and breaks out 8 pins on top for hat's that run sensor packages. I purchased an environmental sensor that has an on board DHT12 BMP280 and BMM150. It reads out temp, humidity and ordinal direction. Neat little device, and I have been playing with it recently to try and figure out all the things I can do with it. I got both the HAT and the GROVE with the same sensors. The problem I have with it is this, when run the temp never stabilizes and continues to go up no matter where I sit it down, or if I hold it in my hand. Humidity does stabilize and in my shop, inside a metal building with all sorts of things from my ham radios to the big screen TV and several computer crunching numbers all around, the direction is usually way off. Why can't I depend on this thing for a relatively accurate temp? It does give me the F scale which was a real selling point for the tiny fully wireless/blue tooth device with a duel core processor at 240 MHZ.
Can you explain the advantage of using 1.1V? I'm making a weather station so I want to have it optimized as best as I can for the usage and usage is definitely below 110 degrees C. Thanks in advance
@@dinodubroja7433 The advantage is it's a fixed value with an internal reference that does not depend on the stability of the 5V rail. But the most important part is if your sensor will return an analog value of 10mv per ºC, it means that in normal conditions it will never output a value higher than 110ºC which is 1.1 volts. This means, that if you use a reference of 5V, the 1024 steps of the ADC will be devided by this 5V and most of this steps will be never used, leaving a few steps for the usefull measurement. And few steps means few possible values so lower resolution. If you use 1.1 reference, each step will represent a lower voltage (1.1/1024 instead of 5/1024), so each step will represent a lower step of temperature giving more resolution. The ideal case would be using a reference just bove the maximum voltage you will read. If your sensor gives 10mv per degree, and you will never measure more than... let's say 60 degrees, which is 600mv, the ideal case would be using a reference slightly above this, like 700mv. This would mean using an external reference. But in our case we have 1100mv internal which will be good enough.
With the analog sensors the ATmega328 has an internal 1.1V reference that could be used, that would improve the sensitivity even more and limit maximum temperature a bit. Another way to increase sensitivity and open for lower temperatures is to use a LM34 (Fahrenheit) sensor, you can, of course, scale to Celsius if you wish. To get better support for negative temperature on LM35 (and LM34) requires a diode, a resistor and one extra ADC input.
Great review of ambient temperature sensors. For specific localized temperature measurement in projects like my coffee roaster, I have used the MAX6675 module (K-thermocouple) and that seems to work very well.
Thank you Bill, another great, and useful topic covered. How about hooking in an I2C oled display to complete a great DIY temp and Humidity station? initializing an oled display in the code, with the included library, and sending the data from the DTH (or what ever your choice of sensor) to the oled display, with the appropriate code ,would be a fun project. Thanks for all you do Bill. Enjoyed it.
Great video. But at the sketch for MCP9808 (26:30) the 'delay(2000) is executed before the sensor goes into sleep, and then wait for 200 ms in the sleepmode. There must be a switch between daley(200) and delay(2000)
Great info, thanks much. Of course we below the border in the US of A, are indeed metric disabled, so the quick conversion was a nice addition. I don't know why those in China don't consider this in their "kits" I have built several very nice clock kits, but NONE of them offer a way to change from C to F, even my favorite that sits above my television is stuck on the C. All my guests, assume that it is the outdoor temps, since it is winter here right now, however it can get them in trouble. For example, my brother-in-law, who got the farm when my wife's parents died, was down visiting one evening, and was amazed that the temp went from sub-zero F to 22 degrees as he sat visiting. He stayed much longer then he would have had he realized that it was still sub-zero and that fog outdoors was freezing on the highways. His farm is 70 miles from our home. I do wish that folks would add a bit, as you did to include the formula to do the conversion in the Sketches, I look it up when I am designing something for my Rig (I am a NOMAD when I can get away with our Class A Motor home) or the house. Sorry just a sore point for me, I grew up in the 50's and early 60's when much of the world was using, what we refer to "real measurements." We had to know what a peck and a bushel were when I was in grade school, but were never even told about metric until around the 8th grade, and I think our High School math teacher did go a bit into how easy things were in Metric, but informed us that some people were just to dense to understand the unites of measurements that had been developed and used for centuries!
DS18b20 comes in a waterproof shell, which is important in several cases. Also, missing sensors that can measure out of "normal" conditions, like k-type thermocouples (~1200 C), pt100 (-200 to 850 C), thermistors with lots of applications in 3D Printing, non contact infrared sensors, lasers etc. Hope next time..
@@samk2630 If You go to Adafruit website, in the instruction how to connect DHTxx sensor, You will find out that DHT22 often already has a built in pullup resistor :)
I have been watching your videos for quite sometime, and have learned a lot from your videos. as a matter of fact, you are the one that inspired me to began to pursue my hobby of working with electronics. I have a question for you. With use of the i2c BUS on items such as the MCP9808, with the selectable i2c address, can you set up your Arduino to switch the i2c address automatically in the event of a conflict? If so, how would i go about doing this?
Great video but am I misunderstanding or is there a mistake @ 10:30 you say connect to GND but in the schematic the connection is drawn to the 5v line?
are you certain you explained how the F() works at 6:30? Why would it matter where the sensor dumps it's data when the only ones which use F are the strings? I think you meant that we are taking the strings from flash instead of sram although I don't know enough about the c++ compilation process to know why it otherwise put them in sram unless for a speedup
Good video but it lacks thermocouples use. I have a personal challenge: how to measure the solar panels temperature located on the roof? How to get rid of the distance? Thanks !
Just FYI; you can get two different TC modules from Adafruit, and there are some cheap clones and lots of sensors on AliExpress. If you have a long distance between sensor and controller/display you can use a pair of RS485 ICs to drive a twisted pair good for up to 1000 metres (ie pulse coded), but a simpler method would be to convert to a 4-20mA signal so that the voltage drop is automatically compensated. Obviously any local sensor circuit would need some power, so you would either need a third conductor to supply this, or use the current loop to also supply the circuit. Hope this helps!
This is unbelievably timely for a project I plan to do soon. If for example if I wanted a variable to hold a temperature obtained from a am2320 sensor I could set the variable to=am2320.readTemperature(); right???
i get temperature readings that seem off (about 10C higher than expected) and the temperatures fluctuate a lot (get as high as 50C) in room air, at night. Using a TMP36 with Arduino Uno Any ideas what it could be?
Having trouble finding a video which shows how to take Sensor ANA INPUTs and write them to an LCD Display. Do you have such a video?? I am wanting to build a Weather Station for Temp, Barometric Pressure and Humidity.
@@pileofstuff true, but sometimes you don't need a precise value like for controlling fan. They are also used in 3d printers for controlling the hotend.
Hello ! I'm new to your channel and love your videos. My comments about this video: it lacks the themocouples and platinum sensors families... Also, you do not explain how to install sensors on the thing to be measured (conditionning). I guess that analog sensors have more limitations on the distance and wiring between the Arduino and the sensor because of noise problems. But I2C can also get into trouble with distance. It could be useful to explain the basis for wiring such devices in real environment. The last MPS9808 seems to be really accurate but what about the setup to measure a base plate for example? Can the PCB hold temperature according to the IC? Can it be directly mounted on a surface up to 125°C? Thanks a lot for the answer :)
??? What’s wrong with mikro ampere? Probably the same thing that is wrong with aluminum... ;-) Great videos you make though :-) Chapeau (hats off to you)
Nice video! But kindly try to make video a little bit small... I am not requesting for a much smaller video... Just try to reduce it for around 10 mins. This will also help you gain more views because people generally prefer short but informative videos! Best of luck! Thanks in advance!
Videos are a bit longer but that's the cost of including all the information plus running examples. This is not only a review but a tutorial and a reference manual all in one :)
Can I use this code with a Wemos D1 mini and the TMP36? Is there any way to add 3 led diod?, green, orange and red to this code that will start with green and then orange and red when it got to hot? Thank for your good videos.
Question, I would really love to build an led display graduation cap for my daughter who graduates from The University of Michigan in May, but I can only find a few tutorials from people who have done it and admittedly have had lots of problems between finding the right components and most importantly, issues with finding the correct program. Most of the sketches have been downloaded from the Arduino site but all seem to need multiple corrections. I am a complete novice, just capable of getting through the basic Arduino sketches and putting them to work on my Elegoo/Arduino Mega boards so I don't think I'm completeley hopeless but I was hoping that someone here may have some ideas. Thanks
Not sure if your question regarding components is for led display or temp sensor as in the vid? if display, what size? There are dirt cheap oled displays 128*64 black white on ebay, they are very small but bright and clear, i like them a lot for small gadgets, fairly easy to use for novice. if its temperature, then i have only tried the dht11 and dht22, and must say i was not impressed, i actually bought about 10 pcs over a few month for a project, because they seemed so inconsistent. They are in the ballpark, but each one has a different value by up to several degrees. Humidity readings was way off on many. -but i could have had bad luck/ bad product. They are cheap and very easy to use, also for a novice, and if precision isnt stressed. But i will try another component for my own project. Good luck!
I would like to someday monitor the temperature of my home furnace heat zones and hot water. Do you have an example with multiple sensors, either on an i2c bus or if there are enough inputs for 3 zones pipes and a hot water pipe? Could your software be used within a Sonoff Basic module or perhaps a Sonoff THM module without its own sensor?
basics first, the bme280 is great, does temp/humid/air pressure, Adafruit PRODUCT ID: 2652, i did not test this on an arduino ! probably on micropython hardware esp32+Wifi (pycom.io/)
how can i build a system and connect 15 samples of MFC (microbial fuel cell) in same time for measuring current (low between 0mA to 3A) and voltage (between 0mV to 800 mV) continuously? I have an oscilloscope, if the system help me to get the reading continuously from the oscilloscope or independently measure them, both way is good for me. Please someone help me.
