I think I'll get this instead of buying all the pvc....however....this kit is cheap pvc and the bulk heads are really cheap. I'll buy much better bulk heads for this kit. I do like the adjustable.
@@inventoryking yeah I had you on the main speakers and the bass was thumping so I nearly spat out my coffee! Thumbs up for your enthousiastic, uplifting vids; keep it up!!
Nice. I DIY'd a DURSO and it made a huge difference in noise reduction. I might be getting a MegaFlow Aqueon tank, thanks for the tips. BTW, did you ultimately glue those pipes in place or are they made to just be pushed together?
Spin the pvc cutters around pipe. to slice into the pipe. Clean straight cut with no moon effect lol. Apply little pressure and spin oioe and or cuuters. Tech tip
When using those type of cutters on pipe, if you roll the cutters just a bit as you start to make your cut it will not smash the pipe and possibly crack it.
Hello thx for the vid. Im new to the reefer world. I got a 2nd hand 72g reef ready tank. My question do you just dry fit the return and drain pipes to the bullkheads, or do you need to use some type of sealent?
I just got one of these, so far it's awesome, but I am still trying to quiet some sounds. The durso makes a little bit of noise. It seems to be coming out of the anti-siphon hole on the top. Some people have recommend using a long piece of airline tubing as a muffler. Anyone tried this?
I ended up changing the 90 degree elbows (with the hole) on the return to an elbow without the hole. I noticed that it was making noise with water going through it (If that makes sense. I did it because I have a main check valve on my return lines after the return pump.
I am trying to go stock. It looks like they thought of everything, I just doesn't work perfectly. I tried the airline tube thing and it was great, like instant silence. But then either the other durso, or the one I muffled started sounding like a constant flush instead of cavitation.
Save your sanity & house! Couldnt be easier. Its Called herbie style drain. 1. Put a pipe in half the height of tower 2. Add two 90 degree street elbows to make a u facing down. This is your main full siphon drain. (No glue needed) 3. Do the same for other side 3 inches higher or same height of inner lip. This is your emergency drain.. you cld makecu here also just make the pipe that much higher if so. the difference in height is buffer you can have your tank run at. If one clogs you have a full 1" backup to save your house & fish. The main drain will be dead silent. if you have the last end section of straight pipe have a mandatory gate valve right after the last donward turn and then a union and gate valve then the rest of the straight piece with the end of pipe submerged 1 -2 inches in sump. (This stops splashing or bubbling but too deep and it will be to much water pressure for the drain to initially push out the air at full siphon. Just run the return out the back and 90 elbow and 1" in have a threaded opening for your locline y nozzles. Just put unions on each side of the 90s at top & bottom & ThEN measure & cut your straight piece. (Unions allow you to swivel elbows so you dont have to figure out angles if it isnt straight up and down from sump "out" to top of tank "in". And unions make it easy to undo and clean or add a uv sterilizer or make it split and have a return on each side of tank and wave makers on back wall instead. (More hidden and better turbulence created.) I dont know anyone who has stuck with original setup. If your drain clogs.. flood.
I take that back I do remember 1 orv2 people saying they have run the durso for years no problem. But 92 out of 100 switch to herbie style. I understand the hesitation to not stick with factory, but once you understand the science/mechanics you realize how much safer having an emergency drain is and quieter a full siphon is. Plus.. the one thing you will move and grab many times.. is the Return.. and the scary strain created by the significant leverage a straight piece of pipe leading to your drain bulkhead under your tank has.. makes you feel better when they are both drains you never touch.
Personal opinion here, channel locks actually are the right tool. however the long handle on the right size channellock would cause you to over tighten the nut. Aqueon did a good job of eliminating a common problem non mechanical people would have. Also, it fits between the glass and the stand. You can do that with a Klein, but most are too thick to fit that gap. And then you'd end up striking the glass with a heavy tool.
"you got this section for air, you've got this section here" yeah, so the manual says the top hole is anti siphon. And... I'm with him... I've got that other section there with three holes. WHATS IT DO???? If it were in the manual then this wouldn't be my fifth video where no one actually tells me what those holes do...
