Some points I'll bring up because I know they'll be addressed: - I know the CR-10 has plenty of predecessors.. notably the Prusa i3. I think there must be some line between companies building off of one another versus intentionally trying to make it look identical so consumers get confused. New printers should offer something new, different, novel.. - The stringing on the caterpillar is mostly due to the method of making that timelapse and, of course, print settings.. not generally an issue with the Ender 3 (see the snell) - I kept saying the Ender 3 is "affordable" but of course that depends on everyone's situation.. I know owning a 3D printer is a privilege that many can't afford yet, I'm just excited the price is coming down. Please only spend within your means! - Maybe the thumbnail is clickbait, but are you really mad? :P
Make Anything can you share your slicer settings for the ender 3. I recently got it and it’s been printing pretty well but I’d love to see if I can get some incredible prints like yours. Thanks
Devon, thanks for addressing and pinning this! I was coming in to ask "Isn't the CR-10 (which I have and love) a clone of others before it."... but you make good points in your post above. Keep the videos coming!
Just some friendly advise. you are one of my favorites!! I watch ALL of your videos. I have a lot of Ender 3 experience with the ender 3 (I have 4 of them all bought by me) if you have the older ender 3 where the brainboard fills the brainbox ADD TL smoothers to X Y and E it makes a huge difference in finish quality. if you have the newer "small" board in the brain box you don't need the smoothers. you seem to be over extruding. I run my creality printers at .97 extrusion multiplier. they over extrude a bit at 1.00. I say this because your catepillar could be much much much nicer on the ender 3. I am going to print it in amker geeks poison ivy green. I think the color would be perfect for such a cool model. thanks for letting us download it. lower your jerk to x10 acceleration to P500 T1000 it will improve quality on the larger crealities and I use it on all my printers now.
How can I know if my ender 3 need this thing you write "if you have the older ender 3 where the brainboard fills the brainbox ADD TL smoothers to X Y and E it makes a huge difference in finish quality. if you have the newer "small" board in the brain box you don't need the smoothers."???
@Don Mega the brain board is the little circuit board inside that runs everything the brain of the machine so to speak before we had computers like this that's what we called them so I guess the word today would be motherboard? The brain box is obviously the box that contains the brain board or sometimes called the breakout box if it's separate from the printer
This vid is the reason I got my CR-10S. I got the S because I catched a good offer (was just 35€ more than the standard one), and because I read that the main board was much easier to tinker with, software-wise. I COULDN'T BE HAPPIER. What an awesome machine. I've been upgrading it a lot, little by little, mostly because I like to tinker, and for convenience (a BLTouch to say goodbye to leveling, for example), and I've recomended it so much that 3 people have bought it because I spoke so good about it. And yes, they're very happy too!.
that is why the printer was so stringy :-) I need to learn how to do that. he is using a pi to pause the printer after every single layer and move the bed and head to the same spot each time and then snap a picture then resume to the next layer. it results in these stupidly sexy unreal time lapses !!!
Sounds like the cr10 will be my choice of printers. Thanks for this video. Someone recently showed me 3D printer stuff and I’m absolutely blown away by what it can do.
I have a CR-10 S5 (500x500x500) for about 4 years now and it can make small things or big things all the same. I love it ^^ I did upgrade about everything there is on it though. Z-rod supports, bowden DDS extruder + V6 extruder, zodiac nozzle , BLTouch (with a 5x5 matrix probe), those squash ball support feet, fixed bed instead of springs, silicone bed heating (so it can warm up in 30sec while it's probing) etc.... So you can't really call it a budget machine anymore as it now costs about 1700 euro's (not including all the PLA, wood, carbon, metal, ... filament) But I've never regretted the purchase ^^
I just go an ender 3 a few days ago and the only problems ive had was bed leveling and adhesion. I ended up pulling off the ender 3 bed and just putting masking tape on the metal plate under it. It has been working normal now. Im super happy!
Man your enthusiasm is just amazing. This video made me feel like I did when I was researching printers for my 1st purchase. So excited and so pumped! Got the CR-10S back in January and just love printing on that thing! Thank you and keep up the amazing work!
One of my favourite parts about owning a CR-10 is the loving community of fans behind Creality printers. Being able to join a facebook group with over 40 thousand people to instantly help you diagnose problems is a HUGE plus. Can't wait to purchase an Ender 3 next to grow my little print farm!
Went for the CR-10S was at a very good price on amazon. 414€ for the 10S and the 10 was at 386€ right now. For me the 10S is a more complete package. Thanks Creality for bringing a bit more fun into my life :) Awesome job! The print quality is amazing!
I'm considering the CR-10/10S but then I saw just a little bit about the AnyCubic Chiron with its 400x400x450 and auto bed leveling. I'll need a few more reviews before I pull the trigger.
@@MCPhantomX yeah, I went with the CR-10s it printed great. Only mods were IKEA mirrors to replace the stock glass and then a PEI sheet on one of the mirrors. Worked great but has been idle for a while. Health and family issues have kept me away. Plan on getting back into it hopefully soon.
@@Hawk1966 Nice. Is there any particular reason you decided to go with the CR 10 instead of the Chiron? I am also interested in both, but unsure what to go with.
@@MCPhantomX reputation mostly. At the time the Chiron was just coming out. I think one RU-vid channel had one up and "running" while the CR-10s was already a second iteration of a successful and well liked printer. I've also rarely used the full volume of the CR-10s so the increased capacity of the Chiron would have never been needed.
I have a cr-10 and really want to buy an ender as well. My only problem is that I can't justify buying it, because my CR-10 works fine and isn't printing all the time.
I got impatient and bought my ender 3 like 8 days ago before you did a review and I’m really glad I did. I’m happy you like it too because that’s a pretty good sign it’s a good printer. Thanks👍
Bought a Cr-10s some months ago and damn it has been fun. Now i just need a bigger place so i can have a proper workspace safe from the kids and so i can make bigger prints xD
This is a great review. For those of us who are looking to branch out from single extruder to multi material printers, a mega review covering those options would be very welcome too.
What would you consider a better printer (not considering the price) among the ender 3 and the anycubic i3 mega? I see that you loved that one too, but a little bit of time is passed since that review. Thank you
Great video, loved the music 🙃 I've always wondered how you manage all your printers, SD cards, slicers, and filament. I think I video about your work flow would be really interesting.
I ordered an Ender 3 a couple of days ago. I think that if I take care in assembling it, and pay close attention to some of the components I should avoid most problems I've seen reported.
I was a little sad when my first, a cr10 was done assembling in a few minutes. And then as a noob I neglected to check alignment and various bolts for tightness. Of course after the spaghetti incident I delved in and went over it pretty well.
OK IVE BEEN CLICK BAITED. i LOVE DEVINS VIDEOS BUT I CAME TO THE VIDEO TO SEE A LOVELY SHIRTLESS MAN, THOUGH THE VIDEO IS GOOD AND INFORMATIVE I STILL FEEL A LITTLE CHEATED.
I love your videos!!!!!. You are easy to understand, speak clearly and know what you want to say. I can't say how much more I enjoy your videos than many others because you get to the point and every second word is NOT "Ummmmm" or "Errrrrr". Great job.
Great Mega-Review Devin. I have had a CR-10S for a month or so now, lovin it. I do however have a major problem. It's brought on a severe case of FA. FA is a little known disease to which some people have a genetic predisposition. The disease is Filament Addiction, and it's caused by the PLA gene. I'm told there is no known cure, but a good credit card and UPS service can help with the symptoms. It's aggravated by videos such as this, exotic colors such as those by Filamentium an Polyelixer Alchemy, and the sound of stepper motors working in concert. I've been told I can slow the use of filament by switching to a 3d pen, but my CR-10 works so well, the queue is several dozen projects long. I now understand why people like you and Angus have a dozen or more machines, it's not because you are curious about the performance differences, it's so you can run them all at the same time.... Come to think of it, my CR-10S is a little size restrictive, I see you making those cool large projects you have in the works and I'm thinking maybe a CR-10S4 might be required to ease the pain of the FA. I hear Polyelixer Alchemy has a new gold color out, Hmmm.... I wonder if anyone has done a full scale King Tut?.........
I think Prusa makes the best FDM printers right now but they are on the pricey side. The CR-10 is probably the best buy because of build quality, size, and the amazingly low price. However the Ender 3 is only a little smaller and a lot cheaper. So it gets my recommendation. What I'd like to see now is an upgrade to the CR-10 that has the improvements of the Ender 3 and CR-10s.
I have the Ender 3 and I really like it. I also have 2 x tronxy 3S that are a also based on the cr-10 design, but I never see many reviews of them. I really like the 3S it's auto bed level sensor makes printing super easy and I have run them for many hours with very little issues.
I am new the 3D printing, but after watching your video, I am totally tempted to give it a try. I am just curious on one thing. I already know I want to print larger item, but would you recommend getting the 4S for a total newbie? Would it be more sensible for me to print in parts in smaller printer while learning and glue them later on?
I wouldn't say the S4 is much harder to use, but it does take up a LOT of space and take longer to print. I would only recommend it if you plan on mostly printing giant things
Great video. I am really torn on which 3d printer to get but I think this helped alot. I might pick up an ender3 for my first printer and if I find enough big stuff I might swap to a CR-10
let me tell you Devin, I really like my CR-10 and I want to buy another one as soon as I have space for it. BUT! I got to know Josef Prusa on barcelona maker faire this year and his original prusa printers... and OMG! you see before that I thought that my prints on the CR-10 were astonishingly good quality, after knowing him, my head is broken, the quality of their prints made on the original prusa is GOLD besides the CR-10, the CR-10 and similar printer's slight banding makes it look like trash compared with a real Prusa mk2 or mk3. I don't regret meeting Josef not buying one or several Creality printers... but man, Lucky I am that I sand everything I print.
Buy a Keenovo AC bed heater if your hotbed is giving you such an unreasonable problem (60's isn't anywhere near hot enough for PETG or ABS and many others [PLA only]. It will heat faster as well as to a far higher temperature.
I have been looking at the cr10 and the cr10 v2, which do you feel is the better machine (money is not the issue) when it comes to reliability and ease of use?
If you have seen "the good place".... You sir are like Smart Jason. I appreciate the video and am looking at buying my first printer and you have helped. Thank you fro the video and I look forward to watching more...
My first 3D printer was the CR10S and it didn’t even work first it took like 2 weeks to come then the heater didn’t work and the guys told me to replace it or check wires I was new to this and they could barely speak English then I got Anycubic i3 Mega S and it is amazing with touchscreen and all I highly recommend it and easy assembly the CR10S took all day to assemble but the Mega S only took max 1 hour only 2 main parts and some plugs then ready to print and I love it so if your new to 3D printing use Anycubic i3 Mega S it will be your dream
I been searching for a good first printer, after reviewing i am swinging between JGAroura > Anycubic I3 > Creality Ender 3 CR-10 and been confused on what to expect then Anycubic announces Anycubic Chiron 400x400x450 with the price very reasonable like 490USD with 100usd shipping...Any advice should I wait or choose one from above?
you are so right mate!!!!. Ive got most of these and the results are similar but all due to tweaking.... Great truth on this. Choose your preference....
Was so happy to find out that video. Sadly it is more of a review of what you have printed than what are really the differences and so on. A lot of work went here though so keep up the work and make it better and better... like a 3D printer :)
Great comparison video I was trying to figure out what the ENDER line brought to Creality that the CR-10 didn't already have. Question on large prints and I know nothing about "dual extruders". Can you run a dual extruder to help speed up a large project? I know they're used for dual color or multi type filament, but can you decrease your print time? Another through I had for the larger platforms. You talked about your S4 and I bought an S5 I'm finishing my first print on. Can you have a dual extruder one with a 1.75mm nozzle and one with the 3mm nozzle? Design in the extruder with the 3mm nozzle and filament to lay down quick infill and larger inter area print, switch to the extruder with 1.75mm nozzle for outside of print detail? I'm still new at 3D printing, but my father and grandfather have had their own wood and partial metal shops so I've got a lot of experience building things.
3mm vs 1.75mm is just raw filament sizes, but yes, you could have a printer with a large nozzle for infill and a smaller one for outer surface details. I haven't tried it yet but it's an interesting idea
Hello. Awesome review! You did really great job here! I'm looking for large volume printer. Cr-10 S4 caught my eye. I would even think about upgrading it to 65cm print height. My question is on maximum weight of printed objects. How much can the bed and wheels manage? The moving bed at Y axis probably isn't best solution for me I guess?
Well that stool weighs like 10 pounds, that surprised me. I think you can print quite heavy objects but might want to slow down print speed as weight increases
I swore up and down I wasn’t got to get another printer. Then it was I might get a resin printer. Now I used one of your links to get a cr -10. Might get a resin printer later.
Could the CR-10 be upgraded by adding another extrusion below,and can you add a 2nd servo,out of filament sensor?Not sure how you would add resume,is it software?Thanks for the reviews and sharing!You gained another sub!
Thanks to you i found what printer I should buy. I brought an ender-3 pro. I did it directly on there website because I felt like it might be more relyable, maybe? This is the first time I order something online. I just hope it won't be stolen. Will they just leave it by the front door of the apartment if I'm not there? I really hope not because that's a realy big chunk of money for me. If somebody could tell me, that would be realy nice of you.
I had an idea for a two part print. Maybe you could make a mountain or jewel mound and a dragon. But, they screw together to make it look like the dragon is curled around the mountain/jewel mound. I hope you like this idea and try it out. Also awesome job on your videos. Keep up the good work. 👍😊
But, what about the CR-10 mini??? I have one and it's affordable at $300, still with a good size build plate (300x220). Plus I've gotten the heated build plate up over 110 degrees. So it works with ABS!
I'm a total 3D noob and think the Ender 3 is a good way to get my toes wet with printing vs saving up for the much more expensive Mk3. Or should I just wait and save up? Great reviews and awesome time lapse
I own a Monoprice i3 v2.1 (lots of mods, but a work horse) $350 and an Anycubic Delta Pulley (almost bone stock but with capricorn tubing) $168 with discount Both print beautifully, but did require some tweaking/building/mods/etc
Love the video great review I just got the S4 they have improved the heat bed it is full size and insulated now and heats better probably won’t get to abs temperature though 🤣
Seems there are important differences between the machines Creality sent you and the ones for the normal customer as myself. I have the CR-10s and I have been having a lot of problems just with the bed leveling.
I'm a little disappointed that you didn't mention a comparison to the Anycubic I3 Mega since it was your number 2 printer. Is the Ender 3 price difference make this the new go to over the I3 Mega if the smaller build size works?
Need your expertise. My son is 13. He has a Divinici XYZ mini wifi printer. He wants to upgrade for Christmas. We looked at the CR10 and we were sold on that. Now I am seeing the CR20 for the same price. It looks a lot smaller though. I dont know enough about this stuff. He wants good quality and he wants to be able to build BIGGER things like masks and helmets etc. Thoughts? Hes still younger so I need it to be somewhat easy.
I really like your review and I REALLy want to know which one I should go with the CR-10 or the U20. I have heard both are similar and the U20 has fixed a lot of issues. Which would you do if they were the same price?
Great reviews! OctoLapse is a great plugin but it murders print quality. It sacrifices the print in order to make a perfect time lapse. Part cooling is messed up when the hot end is parked. There are droops and blips & discontinuities generated during OctoLapse sessions, even on good printers.
When you show those two cube halves printed on the Alpha YZ 20 and the CR10S, you say they're comparable. Am I missing something? Granted, I know little to nothing about 3D printing, which is why I'm here in the first place, but to me the one done on the Alpha YZ 20 looks a 100 times cleaner than the one from the CR10S. Again, what am I missing?
For the same of comparison I probably shouldn't have used the clear filament. It refracts light to show layers much more. The prints were similar in terms of accuracy
I wanted to buy a Anycubic Kossel but now my budget has expended, so now my budget is between 200 and 500 so, what 3D printer should I buy? I'm thinking about one of these: Anycubic Kossel Lineair Plus Anycubic i3 Mega Creality Ender 5 Creality CR-10S Delta GO (Restock Mini G2S Pro) (Altair)
