The only Infusion video where the part is shown direct after demoulding without a video cut! Order sample of the MTI hose at DD-Compound or HP-Textiles
@rippedanny In the classic vacuum infusion you use for example a spiral tube as evacuation hose. We use the MTI hose, a special membrane tube. It is air permeable and resin inpermeable. So you only evacuate the air from the mould and no resin. You can work with a maximum vakuum the hole time. When the part is complete impregnated the resin stops at the MTI hose and the full ambient pressure is working on the part because it is a closed system.
@Urgonath The mould was made by the same way. We also made it in infusion with the MTI hose. The first layer is a special mould resin wich was painted on the positive and afterwards coated with cotton flocks. When it was hardned we put 8 layers of carbon fibre on it and made the vacuum infusion.
@rippedanny : If you use a spiral tube you have an open system because resin can get out of the mould through the evacuation hose. So airbubbles in the laminate can expand and press resin out. Using the MTI hose this is not possible and you get air bubble fre laminate. It is also guarartied that the resin impregnates the hole part.
The MTI hose is resin inpermeable, so you can not take out any resin. But there is no need to take the resin out. Just infuse as much resin as you need and than close the resin feed. That also helps you to lower your resin waste. An easy way to get a good VF is to place the resin pot to the end of infusion about 1.5m deeper as the part. Therby you create a pressure difference wich helps you not to infuse too much resin. By this way you should get a VF of about 55%.
Hello, I leave the part under vacuum until it is cured complete. The clearcoat is the HP-Textiles In Mould Coating, it should cure over night before you can go on. hats much easier than to go on with the further layup.
Hi, no, there is no need for a resin catch pot when using the MTI hose. The MTI hose is resin impermeable so that no resin can travel to you pump. You have to make sure that the ends are sealed so that no resin can get into the MTI hose.
Git some questions: 1) So you have no air bubbles because of the clear coat that is actually "makes the surface"? 2) Why do you use PVA if you already applied the wax? 3) Did you wait for clear coat to fully cure or get tacky? If tacky then why did you use airtack spray?
Петр Кравцов Hello, we don’t have airbubbles because we minimize them by the MTI Hose infusion. You can take a look at our MTI how it works video. We also let the IMC cure complete and use the spray adhesive to fix the fabric.
@zomaardan You can buy the hose for example at HP-Textiles or if you need great quantities you can contact DD-Compound direct. If you contact us via mail we will send a sample.
@MTIinfo That is awesome sir, i will contact you in a few, i will set up a place to experiment first. I really like this and i wanne give this a go. I hope i can get a good mould build, this will be tricky. Greetings
Very nice! What I can not see is where the surplus resin is taken out in order to achieve a (nearly) perfect resin to fiber ratio. Second question, what is the rate you achieve with regard to resin-fiber with carbon or glas?
Is the finished weight of parts close to identical? I am looking into a large scale RC plane project and love the idea of a carbon fiber clear warplane.
why did u place the MIT hose around the part?..is that to catch up the rest of the resin?..cause i didnt see the resin come out from any of the sides or corners exept the middle
I am interested in your product however I went to the site and clicked the translate button from German to English, and it only had the information describing the hose. I would like more information like the cost of the hose. the video shows that it can be used similarly to resin infusion with one less step, please send me some links for the total set up process. Thank you,
We have the adhesive here in India can you tell me if it is a temporary adhesive for fixing purpose or permanent adhesive, what is the tackiness you are looking for.
Did you leave the part under full vacuum while it cured? What was the clear coating you applied ? Did you let it cure overnight? Or did you layup immediately? Thanks Fred
What do you mean? There is no plastic it is glued on, and wich other side? And what do you want to do with a compression chamber? May be that you did not rate the correct video?
You have to keep the vaccum going to remove any air bubbles and keep the fibers pressed togeter against the mold. The cure time is entirely based on your resin and the temperature of the room.
+Hakasauars The cure time depends on the resin. After infusion you can leave the pump running or close the vacuum line and shut it off. Your part should be that tight that you can switch the pump off. With the MTI hose and using the MTI valve you can leave the resin inlet open until everything is saturated without getting too much resin in the part. Also there is no need for eucking out air bubbles, there should not be any bubbles inside.
