If this isnt true testimony to the sound and quality of the Memphis Mini Mojo's then I dont believe there is one to be had!! so prepare for kind of a long review. I have been a hardcore JL Audio fan since 99 when I bought my first pair of 13w6's. I got into focal mids and highs for a while until I heard what the C5 series sounded like and that changed my mind. I was also a hardcore fosgate amp fan until i heard my subs on a slashv1 amp which changed my life. So over the last 23 years Ive ran all JL Audio systems in many different configurations. My last JL system was in an 02 Silverado 2500HD extended cab. Consisted of 2 JL Audio HD600.4 amps, 1 Jl Audio 1200.1v3 Slash series amp, a TWK88 DSP, 4 JL c5 6.5 inch mid bass drivers (2 molded into each door with MDF and glassed in) cutom built A Pillers with 2 C5 tweeters and 2 4 inch C5 midrange's (1 of each per pillar). I had the audio shop rip the back seat out and build a custom sealed enclosure that was chambered and ran 3 JL Audio 10w6v3d4 subs. my mids and highs were ran active and were front staged. Amazing and beautiful sound, full and smooth as silk. I ran a Surikan AGM battery for the truck, a Singer 320 amp alternator, and 2 Stinger red top premium AGM batteries to the amps. had the big 3 done, all JL OFC wiring, and the whole truck was Hush Matted including inner and outer skins of the doors. I went full ham on this systtem and cut zero corners. I thought I built the perfect system. Total price with install and custom fab work was right around 17,000 dollars. I never regreted a penny I spent and enjoyed that system for 3 years. I bought an 02 GMC extended cab Sierra 1500 Denali this year and decided to put a system in it. I didnt want to spend a whole lot of money and well, JL has truly came up in price over the last 3 years. so I went down and was looking at different gear trying to put together ideas for how i wanted to build my new system. one of the guys at the car audio shop knew my other truck and said he would bet the cost of the system with install he could build me a budget system that would blow me away for a fraction of the price so I said do it and lets see how it sounds in the end. They dynomatted my doors, rear wall and floor up to the back of my front seats, installed kenwood excelon xr-1801p reference Hi-Res 7 component speakers in my front doors, cut my rear doors and fitted a pair of Kenwood Excelon XR-1701 reference Hi-Res 6.5 inch 2 way coaxial speakers. those are ran on a Memphis Audio VIV600.v2 amplifier. they fit the Memphis Mojo Mini dual 8 inch truck box (had to add feet under the enclosure on the ends as I have a small tunnel in the center of the cab) with a Memphis Audio VIV2200.1v2 sub amp. I am running an AGM under the hood and 1 AGM stereo battery (unsure of the brand) behind the rear backrest of the bench seat. still have yet to do the big 3 and add a Singer alternaor but so far the cost is right at 6500 I couldnt believe my ears at the sound. it took a minute to get used to the rear fill sound of the coaxials as I am used to front stage sound but I must admit that I am overly impressed with the performance, accuracy, time alignment and overall sound quality of this system. to put it into persective listening to DJ magic Mike Feel The Bass I meter 137.5 DB in my Silverado. I meter 133.9 DB in my Denali. a slight audible difference, but subtle, not extreme overall. of course the bass is the biggest difference but not enough to justify a major gain in my opinion. Im not looking for spl. I want SQ/SQL. now listening to chris Jones - Long After Your Gone or Stevie Ray Vaugn - Tin Pan Alley I can hear and feel a difference in the bass in volume. but as far as full sound I rather enjoy my Denali build just as much as I do my Silverado build. what makes the BIGGEST difference for me is how tight and accurate the 8s are vs. the 10s. and that alone is enough to win me over. when i listen to bands hardcore technical or progressive bands like Messhugah or Dream Theater, or if I am bangin to Rittz Explode, or For Real I will take the Memphis Mojo Mini 8s over the JL 10w6s anyday. im just an everyday hardworking man who loves his audiophile grade sound systems both at home as well as in my vehicles. and being a loyal JL fanboy I am amazing myself as I write this comparison. deep rich tones at all volumes, accurate tight bass, big in sound and feel in a small woofer for a steller budget price. I definitely recommend them to those looking to save space and money without losing quality, impact, and volume.
I have the dual Memphis Mini 8’s in my 2014 Dodge Ram SLT with the Memphis VIV 3000.1 with the 10” Linkswell T style screen with the Memphis Monster Wireing kit 0 gauge Power and Ground I actually had to Upgrade my battery to the Shuriken 4000 this thing is massive !! They want more power btw all stock Door and Component speakers Man these Things are Impressive!!! I’m still working out the Amp Tune to get it where I want it but they are Louder then my 2 12” Kicker Comp VR’s in the Ported 1 ohm Kicker Box on my Planet Audio 2000.1 mono amp in my 2000 Ford F 150 and Pioneer Double Din
I heard some mojo 10’s the good ones with the gold on them and they banged they actually hit a little harder then my 12” lvl 4’s in the mid bass range but my LVL4’s are tuned low and get low little better then the 10’s!
The Memphis Mojo Silverado box we bought has single voice coil. We bought the dual 8 box. I'm guessing they are knock offs from Sonic Electronix. Also says made in China
Why does the ohms change to 1 ohms when I click on the link for the 6.5 single in a box. But if I click on the 6.5 subwoofer link there are option of 2 or 4 ohms?
I have the dual mini mojo 8 car box in the trunk of my lincoln MKZ wired down to 1ohm to a rp1,500 and they're hitting harder then my last build that was 2 skar EVL12s hooked up to a rp2,500 @.33ohm, that Amp was rated for 2,500@1ohm so it was likely getting closer to 3k-3,500 RMS.
I have a similar 8 and metered it against a similar rated and quality level 12. It was only a 2-3 db difference and it’s nice to have that much more trunk space. That said as hard as the 8 hits it doesn’t quite have that bass that surrounds you. I’m thinking about splitting the difference with a 10
If you had the 12" version of your 8" that you have and both were in the ideal box with the ideal power you should see a gain of about 4 to 6 db more with the 12" speaker on the same power and to the human ear 3db seems much louder so 6db there would be no comparison
Why put 8" woofers in your car if something larger will fit? 6.5" and 8" are limited by their small cone area, so they will NEVER be as loud as larger woofers.
They are meant for boxes but it is a cool idea I've thought if it a couple times lol but if u want bass doors yes no highs no mids but some lows in the doors like it just depends on the 6.5 tho you could probably fit a toro 6.5 or a skar 6.5 sub but
They do make sub/woofer style speakers you can use for front bass! There 61/2 subs geared toward midrange and bass! Think of old 15” kicker being ran with everything through them but better cause there more designed to do it!
I don't play lod, but can easily bottom out an 8" sealed subwoofer. I have a subsonic filter. A single 10" is fine. The little subs look great and probably have a greater XMax than most, but there is still no substitute for cubes!
2 things I want to say. Ive been a JL Fanboy since 1999. and I always believed the same theory you did. that was until I bought the truck box loaded with the 2 8 inch Mojo Mini's on a Memphis 1100 Watt amp. Im banging 132 DB in an SQ/SQL build as I decided to go a different route with this build over my last system build. and I have to say that not only do the Mojo Mini's pound in my truck, they are far more accurate and far easier to align in Time then the JL 12w6v3-D4 sub/s. I am beyond impressed with the sound impact, accuracy, alignement, and explosive sound I get from these subs. and considering their DB rating as far as resistance I cannot believe how full they sound at low volumes which is where I am most impressed. they move air easier then I thought they would thus allowing low volume play to sound just as amazing as high Volume sound. I hate to say this but I think i found my pound on a budget setup.
I have a general gripe. Why in discussions of subwoofers, is the only thing discussed how low and loud they are? No discussion of musicality or accuracy or anything beyond the raw numbers. That's a shame - but not a surprise. It seems like all too many folks aren't interested in anything but how much they can rattle their windows and annoy others at intersections.
Yeah im with you . I want to know the the best subs for SQL setup . Cause I want my bass but love the good sound quality . Jl has always been my go to . But they are so expensive to get loud with .
I have the 2 8s mojo s with 2k dc audio amp pushing them and to be honest I was disappointed for the amount of power it is my old setup was a 12 l7 kicker paired with an old zx 750.1 kicker amp and it blows them 8s Away with literally less then half the power
Oh yeah those L7 kickers are legit!! Plus that old ZX750 puts out way more power than 750 watts. But in the video we tested a Kicker COmpVRs which are no where near what a L7 puts out. I’m not surprised that your old kicker set up was better. Thanks for the comment
I have a mojo 8 with a 1500 watt amp and I can’t turn up the bass cause it will put too much power to the sub correct and blow it when you got to your Second 8 did you have to get a bigger alternator or anything
I'm experiencing same thing. All my other bigger subwoofer is sounds better with half the power. My single MA 12" and L5 kicker at with just 100watts sounds better and hard than this mojo at 700watt
Do u have the CT 6.5 subs cause I was looking in to them and want to know about it wanted to replace my Skar evl 6.5 sub for a pair of ct 6.5 for my back doors
Mine are great I had D18/ CT/ kicker r mtx, I got dual set up, an these are great them an my Sundowns go hard for deep bass . But if it’s aggressive bass my l7 are better for that..
Hi I am setting up a new system in my car, but I want to buy 4 Memphis mojo 8" subwoofer, but need to know what is the best amplifier I need to push them all.
Any chance you can do a video on the Memphis Audio MJMECHEV8D1 that you showed briefly in this video? I just purchased a 2021 Silverado and am looking for subs to produce some deep lows for under the back seat. Just purchased the VIV2200.1V2 so I just need to find what is best for that location to produce results.
I just bought a 8in in the enclosure for the extended cab of my 1998 s 10 ...dimensions work really well ....my question is I bought a Skar audio rp1500.1 to run the sub ....this amp should be little more than the peak rms for the sub .....I have always thought and been told you can never have to much power ....what's your thoughts on this combo
All in how you wire it and if you have a mono or channeled amp. I have a 800rms skar amp wired at 1ohm on my 800 rms 12 but at 2 ohm it's only like 370watts going to the sub.
Mine is the 900rms...1600 peak....I just have the gain turned down on the rp1500.1 seems be OK although I am not daily driving vehicle yet just have played it for few mins here and there while working on truck...
How do we know the kicker isn't in a prefab? This video honestly is bogus... Everyone in car audio knows cone is king. When comparing apples to apples the larger cone will win provided the environment is right for the application.
Ok so if you look at the box for the kicker it's in a box designed and made by kicker so its in an its optimal box. Of course if you compare apples to apples meaning a 12 sub that handles 900 watts vs an 8 that handles 900 watts the 12 will be louder. But that kicker is a 500 watt sub and the Memphis 8” is 900 watts. But the point of these woofers is to produce lots of bass with a small sub vs other larger woofers.
@@BreakersStereo no way if subs are performing in the right environment will the smaller sub prove victorious. I've heard systems that sound like crap due to the enclosure not being spec out for that particular sub. And in term being out perform by the smaller system. The smaller sub may be able to take more power than the kicker, but that doesn't mean it's more efficient. Kicker is designed to produce more with less! You didn't mention any of the parameters of the 6.5 to help possobly explain this miracle sub. However I'd bet the sensitivity is quite high and maybe even above average for a typical 6.5! But come on brother you snd I both know that is a steep mountain to climb for a 6.5 to outperform a 12 when both are in their respective environments.
This is from Memphis back in March. With you doing multiple subs with a common air space and port you will need to have between .5 - .75 cubic ft per sub net meaning after woofer and port displacement your port should be tuned to roughly 36-38 hz Hope that helps you Let us know if your have any further questions dan
I had 2 8s mojos and my Jl 500/1 destroyed them 😓🤣🤣🤣 but fuck the bass my guys !!!! Hard af do recommend but if you wanna slap some hard shit, skar 12” 3000w900w/rms
That kicker comp r is not a very good comparison. It only handles half the power of the Memphis. This feels dishonest given kicker hasa sub that will handle similar power and there's over $100 price difference in the sub alone. The mini MOJO alone costs more than that kicker with the box. Why not use the q class. Would have been a more honest comparison in my honest opinion
The ratings are a lie. 700rms my rump. For how long? 2 seconds? Ive had memphis. 4 hpo 12's. Back when they were good. That 1.5" 4 layer coil will not take 700rms and you know it. Hell my 2" coiled bdc4's and most other name brand like the sundown sa, or the dd redline are only rated 250rms. I cant believe yall can sit there with a straight face and tell us thats a 700rms sub. Jesus christ, my jbl gti mkII 12 is only rated 750rms and it has 3" differential coils
I was looking in to a pair of Memphis 6.5 subs and the guy at the audio store said they can handle 600 watts each not 700 not only tht i have a pair of Skar evl 6.5 sub on my back doors they aight can't push them to high cause they get to sounding liek trash but keeping it at volume 10 gives it tht nice bass either i have my big boy subs in my truck if i want that heavy hitting bass
@@joseulloa8135 im running a audiopipe txx bdc4-66.5 with 2" coils in .37 sealed between bucket seats in a 95 ranger single cab running on an alpine mrp-350. Its not stupid loud but it bangs and handles the alpine just fine. Drops down to 30hz surprisingly well for a 6.5". Im sort of impressed with it. Have a 2krms 2005model vega stroker 122 that i want to do a blow through with eventually though. Going to run it with a set of gain matched power acoustic gothic 2500.1's witch will feed it around 1300rms@2ohm. I dont quite trust cerwins 2krms rating and feel its probably closer to a 1krms to 1400rms sub really. A stroker would be straight nasty in a tiny single cab ranger lol.
@@NorthFloridaAirGunner nice 👍 I'm about to change my how truck set up replace my 2 12 Skar audio for black brick brick house 12 and run my Orion HCCA 3000.1D splx but leave my door subs and mid range the same
The 8s are rated for 900w each and I have my dual 8s wired to a RP2000@1ohm, been hooked up for a few months now with zero issues. Memphis's entire Mojo line has been a beast since they first came out with them.
@@BreakersStereo no not to me! First off as I stated before this test is bogus. 2ndly if cone is king then how could you expect a smaller cone to outperform a larger when placed in a proper enclosure? 🤔
Why did you put the term lab all the way up at the top that's not how they do it in competition if you want to do it more accurately for The Listener you would do it at the headrest that's just the weirdest spot to ever put a term lab
@@BreakersStereo no it's not the recommended location is passenger side 12" from the edge and approximately 6" from the bottom and why are you even mentioning that it has suction cups? I didn't ask that everyone knows it has suction cups on it . Jesus Christ your simple
