Hey Gary, I have this same station. I'm modeling my layout from my hometown. We had a Sinclair station in my small hometown in the 50's-60's. As a kid, I guess a big dinosaur like that left a lasting visual impression on my brain. It's pretty clever that Sinclair would use a dinosaur to form a link to the oil pulled out of the ground to the gas used to power our cars. Isn't it ironic that our beasts run on Dino juice. Oh, if only the dinosaurs saw that one coming, they would have tried harder, not to go extinct😅. I completely disassembled and customized mine. I reduced the plastic base height with a belt sander to the thickness of Masonite and added driveway extensions along the front and sides with approaches out of Masonite and custom painted the concrete to actually look like worn concrete with Americana DecoArt acrylic craft paint after it was primed. I removed the backing and used 1/2" foam core board and added side wall extensions and a flat roof. I disassembled anything that could be removed from the base with a sharp razor knife and masked the signs. I used a single light, flat primer coat for plastics. Krylon Fusions or Camouflage paint works well as long as it's flat and made for plastics. Acrylic craft paint doesn't stick well to most all plastic surfaces and needs some tooth for it to stick. Any FLAT spray paint for plastics works as a base or dullcote will work also. The flat spray paint can be used as the finished surface but the acrylics come in a lot off different colors, are designed for blending for a more natural and realistic finish, and they dry dead flat without sheen. I left the original white cinder block front as is and sprayed it, and the completely disassembled truck with a light coat of dullcote. I used Americana DecoArt Holly green and warm white to repaint the building, and found these to be a good match to the original colors. I used Americana DecoArt Metallics silver acrylic paint to paint the sigm pole and burnt umber and cinnamon stick to lightly weather it with rust. You could lightly sand the scratched roof prior to painting it. I use a dry sponge paint method to paint shingles, masonry, brick, concrete, asphalt, and pretty much any rough textured surface that has a variegated surface. It's easy to naturally build up layers in varying shades this way. The technique is to use a dry sponge method where most of the paint is blotted off before applying. You'll soon develop your own technique with practice. It's not difficult to paint sloppy like a kid. The flat acrylic paint will have a similar hiding effect to flat wall paint in that it will hide the unnatural blemishes caused in the plastic molding process. Those dimples along each side of the roof and that shiney unnatural plastic surface that screams plastic building will disappear to a more natural realistic finish. Weathering with acrylics by making a stain using lots of water with very little paint also adds to the overall effects. I prefer to add light weathering as opposed to heavy handed to achieve a more natural cohesiveness between structures. Different degrees of weathering are preferred to give the appearance that the entire town wasn't built in a single day.
