Mercedes-Benz OM617 diesel valve adjustment and minor cosmetic restoration on my 1983 300TD (S123) W123 estate wagon Contact Gary --- garydeyo302@gmail.com
on 230E and 280E engines, the E wasn't a class designation like "S". While I unnderstand why one might think so, however, consider the Wagon you have, has no "E" in its model, 300TD, which stands for "Touring Diesel", 2 doorr versions with the diesel were 300CD, with the "C" disognating Coupe, and ""D" for Diesel. The 4 door sedans were simply name 300D. The "E" stands for "Einspritzun", which in German is "Injection". Since ALL diesels are injected, there was no reason to designate it as so, whearas gasoline variants came in either carbuerated or Injected versions. Good video, I just thought you find that an interesting tidbit.
@diecastlifeanddeath4528 Thank you. That's very good information. I thought i actually eluded to that in the video but maybe I misspoke. Since my first Mercedes-Benz was a w210 E300D, I must have had that in my mind as I believe the later cars were named by C, E, and S class, etc. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Yes, logically you would think as things wear that you would have excessive clearance, but if the wear is occurring on the valve face and valve seat, the valve sinks into the head and the clearance may not be enough, resulting in low compression and or misfire. Pro tip. Next time, remove the individual feeler gauges that you need from the set so you’re only holding the one you need in your hand. You’ll get a much better “feel” of what you’re measuring. Far more accurate.
Yes, that's true. That occurred to me later on. The pushrod engines I've adjusted have typically gotten loose over time. I did indeed remove the feeler gauges I was using. Thanks for the tip, though. After the video, the next morning, I went back and checked them all again. A few valves were still tight. One thing i didn't do the first time was rotate the engine after my adjustments and double-check them. so I readjusted and triple checked before closing it up. It starts much better than it did, but it's still not perfect. I do think it's gonna need injectors, although I still plan to run diesel purge through it and see if that improves it. Thanks for watching
My 2002 Sprinter sounds the same at startup. After running, idle smooths out. All new injectors. Does not smoke. But I think I might have some bad rings in a piston.
I went back and checked my adjustments, and there were a few valves that were still out of spec that I guess I didn't quite get adjusted properly. But even after readjusting, it still starts a bit rough. Although it's much better than it was in this video. After it warms up, it runs perfectly and has good power. I'm actually impressed with the power, so I don't think it's down on compression. I should do a compression test anyway, but I'm pretty certain injectors will make a huge improvement.
Just wanted to say I like your videos, but yeah need to keep the talking points to a limit! It’s good info but want to see more results! Keep up the good work!
Thank you. I'm glad to have your feedback. This was a long one, and I really liked the part where I talked about the history of this engine, so I didn't want to cut it out. Maybe in the future, if I want to do a lot of talking, I will make a more dedicated video for it and keep the technical working videos separate. Sometimes, I end up talking more than I actually work. Thanks for watching.
@@MarkShinnick I'm sure that's true. I used to have an Isuzu cab-over truck with a common rail 4HK1 diesel. It was great when it worked properly. I've since sold it and would prefer to never own an electronically controlled diesel again. The best thing about a classic diesel engine is its mechanical syplicity.
