Just some friendly suggestions and this is totally in MY opinion... 1) To the watchers of this video: I recommend everybody sets Playback Speed to at least 1.5 2) To the creater(s) of this video: I recommend when you are using an impact tool and it's making noise, you consider maybe not speaking during all that sound since you're not as audible and the frequencies of that impact sound cuts right through your voice, thus making it hard to understand what you're saying
Hi thank you for sharing this video. I was wondering if you can tell me where the temperature sensor is located on the transmission. i got the same transmission. i got p2740 error code but no check engine light and the transmission shifts fine too but want to address it before anything catastrophic happens. Any information of the location of the sensor is greatly appreciated!
How is it now. One thing concerning, it's been repeated not use a magnet for cleaning solenoid screens, to dip in fresh fluid over and over to clean. If you're trans is still good, makes one wonder about that warning. How did you reattach connector to new sensor?
We have Autel maxi in the shop but you don't need anything super fancy a Bluetooth dongle and some android software for MB should be ok to get codes out of the TCM or ECU good luck 🤞
This is a very informative video and provides enough visual facts for the brave DIY mechanic to do a repair. Well done. I'm going to replace sensor Y3/8n1 when the replacement one arrives in the mail. When you re-assembled the unit, what torque settings did you use to tighten: a) the 7 control unit bolts to valve body, and b) the 4 bolts securing the solenoids? It would be a great help to me if you could let me know, as I can't find that information anywhere.
I do not know it's also a long time ago when I did this fix. Sorry can't help you out here but range selector solenoid should be possible to fix. On the other hand those conductor plates are not that expensive anymore.
I have a 2007 s550 giving me codes p2767 & p0717. The car has a few bumps when shifting if i am flooring the car but not when cruising, sometimes when cruising the car will lose acceleration as if it were going limp and running at about 10% capacity and then it open back up again completely, any thoughts? My mechanic is recommending me to change out the entire valve body
Hello, I made the change of the whole module for my ML 500 W164 with its reprogramming, but now my vehicle does not exceed 4000 RPM at any time, it is like that its limit is that, and it throws an error in an N15 / 7 module which when looking for that module is not used by my Mercedes, could it be a bad programming?
Thanks for sharing! I am geeting codes 0730 /2505 / 2502 My next step is to drop the valve body and plate to look for for debris at the K1 solenoid. I have gears R - D1 - D2 and then nothing when it attempt to shift to 3rd. Per the 722.9 chat it is at this time that the K1 solenoid is to be activated so I am going to look for related issues there. Have you and is it safe to put 12V to the solenoid to confirm actuation?
@@G-MansWorld Thanks. I found this piece of information in a forum but the image of the port layout wasn't accessible. "If you have the valve body out you can air pressure test the K1 by putting air to the hole in the trans case for K1" do you know how I could complete this test or have a picture of the port layout?
I do not I did only focus on this sensor back than I did rebuild some transmissions in the past but it's not what I do for a living I would need to search for this my self sorry
Sorry but I am in TX good luck fixing it if you consider to do this your self you do not need a lift to this jack stands will work fine and in 3 to 4 hours you back on the road. Otherwise try to ask your trusted mechanic I know they are hard to find :)
Hi friend, thank you for your video. I have a similar problem meaning after the diagnostic on the mb, I have this code 2734; The internal electrical check of component Y3/8y3(K2 clutch control solenoid valve VGS) has failed. How can you advise in this kind of situation. Best regards,
Can't advise anything but u can try to replace the sensors that worked for me. I also believe you can buy the whole conductor plate ( aftermarket) for way cheaper than years ago.
hello friend, have are you? i have a same problem on the mercedes w 211 2,8 cdi 7G tronic.on the 7G tronic (73 32 ) damage Y3/8N2 spead sensor and i nead to change.I can't find this code and if I install 72 29 the sensor will work? thenk you.
I have a 2007 mercedes c230 with a 0717 code. Turbine/ input speed sensor no signal. The car is in limp mode it stays in 2nd gear and also thunks into reverse and drive. I plan on replacing the y3/8n1 and y3/8n2. Will this solve my issue?
Sort of difficult to say this online but you are welcome to post them here and Monday I go and check and will respond maybe I can give you an idea what's going on
2725 2734 2810 2759 Vehicle Information DTC Description The Internal Electrical Check Of Component Y3/8y6(B2 Brake Control Solenoid valve(VGS)) Has Failed. The Internal Electrical Check Of Component Y3/8y3(K2 Clutch Control Solenoid valve(VGS)) Has Failed. The Internal Electrical Check Of Component Y3/8y1(Working Pressure Control Solenoid valve(VGS)) Has Failed. The Internal Electrical Check Of Component Y3/8y8(Torque Converter Lockup Clutch Control Solenoid valve(VGS)) Or Check Of Component Y3/8y9(Start-up Clutch Control Solenoid Valve) Has Failed. State Current and stored
This is such a fukin horrible repair to do I did this repair on families car a couple years ago (BOTH SENSORS ONE IS EASY ONE IS HARD AS YOU SAY). Knocking out those sensors is no joke. hard to do without damaging the flexible circuit and other stuff. I ended up epoxying the long difficult to remove sensor back in there as I had damaged the plastic on the hard one closest to the computer. The other one beside it was easy to get out as you show. Next time (I hope theres not a next time) I'll have to try you're method. I used a supplied drift/cutter on the short sensor but the long one was super hard to get out. Car was working fine after the repair but I wouldnt feel comfortable charging people to do this I only do it for family.
Sorry but I do not offer repair service like this and you always need to keep in mind this will most likely fix your issue but a 100% success nobody can promise you.
Bro ive changed the sensor but my error still not going and comes back after some time when i start driving the car.Ive change the sensor twice to confirm
Did you ever fix the car? Same happened to me, just replaced the y38n2 sensor and the car drove ok for 70 miles then went back to limp mode and getting same error code.
Hey, after replacing the completw transmission on my 2008 w204 the car hesitate to shift from one gear to another and there is also a jerk if in shifting gear liver from P to D or D to R, any thoughts?
I am flocking the dashboard of my Chevy Avalanche ....the first part of the video is done today I did record some more about dashboard removal and the result of first try to flock the front section. The dash is massively cracked and I did decide to get a molded cover to glue over to give it more strength and prevent more crack's after fixing it. After done I think it will have the parts first part is done .....now need to wait for the cover to come in.
Volume is so low I can't hear what you're saying, and your camera angle continually has your hand in the way of what you're doing. Not to mention you fail to mention where those speed sensors can be purchased.
Are you serious about this?! He's hammering it! It won't clean it of oil (that's why there isn't even how to solder the sensor back). This tickling of the solenoid with a magnet will certainly not remove the chips, certainly not with this, it is weak. And at the end does he tighten the screws by feel?? Another tinkerer.
Yes that's the only way to get them out and it works just fine as long u support the other side with a socket basic mechanic stuff. I fixed lots of transmissions and rebuild some best part is they did shift fine after installation. The solenoids have screens on them the metal dust if any collects on the screen you won't need a super strong magnet but a neodymium magnet is pretty strong and works well. There is even Mercedes service instructions out there who tell you to do just that. All that matter on the end is if it works for you final result was ok I am happy. You can buy the whole board if you not comfortable with it but imobilizer is in it if I remember right so need programming.
This brute-force approach could damage other components. I found that there are other videos that show a special punch that cuts around the sensor and pulls it out. I suggest you search for those. To the creator: Also look for those videos so that you can level-up your approach. The video is informative but I would never bang on electronics like this. No, I'm not a mechanic, just a tech-savvy bass player with only one W-211.
It's a hole punch it comes in the set and you need to punch quiet heavy no way around it and some versions have a even stronger epoxy ..... So yeah I suggest to you to try it out your self and than come back and give me your opinion on how easy or not easy it actually is to get them out. But today u actually can buy the whole conductor plate for pretty cheap like 200 ish dollars almost not worth the hassle anymore.
I completed the repair of the y38n2 sensor and the car drove ok for about 70 miles and now I am getting the same error on the scanner and the transmission is back in limp mode. I am thinking I need to replace the conductor plate at this point??? It's vgs2 so I can do just the conductor plate. On ebay I can buy one that is ready to pair to the vehicle and preprogrammed to my Vin, but what else do I have to do to make it work with my car?
MATE i TRIED, i REALLY DID (09.56) BUT YOUR CAMERA WORK IS SHIT AND YOUR AUDIO IS EVEN WORSE. SORT IT OUT PLEASE COZ I RECKON THIS COULD HAVE BEEN GOOD.
