Thank you, my coolant temp gauge did not read at all I done the ohm's test you described and had no resistance I swapped the sender unit for another second hand one I had on another engine, it had ohm's reading's on all 4 pins now temperature gauge is working and funny enough my oil pressure gauge started working this didn't work before I changed the coolant sensor, so thank's again.
Great video, but confused on how to test a 4pin sensor? Does this mean you test them diagonally? +mm to one pin and - mm to the other pin? Cris cross? Would you please comment, how to test? Thank you, in advance!! Gracias!!! 👍🙏
Hi Suffering rough idle for months. Checked my engine temperature sensor today. When the enigine is cold it gives a reading of 2.5,kohms. When the engine is hot the sensor shows .5 kohms. Could this my issue ?????? Keep up the great work. Very informative vids. Cheers
You have a bad value when the car is warm. Both pins must show the same value. When warm you should get 350ohm. Also tell me about your car - I need the engine code as well as the year of manufacture. Provide me also with the things you have done on the car, replaced.
@@mercedeske Hi. I have a 1989 260E. M103 Engine (No O2 Sensor) Engine Code - 10394022065054 I have a rough Idle with an occasional stall for the past 2 years that I’m desperately trying to figure out. The revs on warm idle are at 500 RPM. It has a slight shake. I cannot identify if its an Ignition, Fuel or Vac Problem. Ignition Checked all individual components and all appear to be working fine. Spark appears to be strong on all cylinders. I changed the plugs (Denso Q16TT) and distributor cap (but not the Rotor). Also replaced OVP. Fuel I‘ve changed the Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump Relay. Checked Accumulator. I’ve done several tests in terms of fuel pressure and flow. Fuel flow produces 2 litres of fuel per minute which is a good indication of strong fuel pumps. I did a pressure test on the KE Jetronic /Fuel Distributor. On the lower chamber I get 5 bars and on the upper chamber with the EHA disconnected I’m getting 5.4 Bars. I ‘ve also replaced all injectors (Bosch x 6) and seals. I did not do an individual flow test to Injectors Vacuum I’ve done a Smoke Test and it shows no leaks in the Engine Bay. I carried out a Vacuum Pressure Test from the Intake Manifold. Interestingly it went from 14hg to 15 Hg floating between these points. (Have a Video if I could email it to you) I believe it should be between 18 to 21 Hg and steady. The Vacuum Dial at that pressure indicates Late Ignition Timing. I’ve also conducted a Compression Test and that indicated 13.5 Bars of Pressure on all six cylinders. Other Components Tested I’ve conducted tests on the following and all appear to be working. a) The E.H.A b) The ICV Valve c) Potentiometer d) Temperature Sensor e) Crank Shaft Sensor f) Micro Throttle Switch g) Sensor Plate h) HT Leads ( Measuring Resistance) i) Duty Cycle j) Air Intake Temperature Sensor I’ve run out of ideas at this stage and desperately want to get to the root of the problem. Really appreciate your time. Cheers
Tried to do flow test today. Was unable to place fuel lines into individual bottles. Took off all lines and bypassed FPR. Could hear it prime and all ports seem to be holding. No fuel in ports. Did a pressure test some time ago and it produced 2 litres in 1 minutes. I doubt its a fuel distributor problem. On to the next plan!!!
hello, my 1986MB300E has the 2-pin coolant temperature sensor like the one you show on the video. Car runs fine but I checked to see the resistance on both pins and the potentiometer doesn't show any value with cold or hot engine. I assumed the sensor is bad and ordered a new one. Do I just unplug and screw the new one? Also to test before installing the new one, what resistance should I get in a hot glass of water and a cold one please? Thanks
Hello. Concerning the values - here, I will send you the link to my instagram page where you can read the values. If you don't get any values both on the potentiometer then check the wires if you have continuity. The link for the CTS instagram.com/p/CTLYUPdKBQ_/
Thank you for all the information. My car is 230e 1992 m102. I tested CTS and the ohm measurements looks fine. You said the cold start injector must be active below 60C. But when it is not very cold (in my case under 10C) my cold start injector does not work. 4-5 seconds ignition and the rpm goes to 950 and then after warmup it falls to 800. I tested it with another CTS. I put CTS in a cold water and plugged it and then started the car. the cold start injector worked. The rpm went to 1200 and after warm up phase it fell to 800 rpm. Perfect. What can be the cause of the problem? When I park the car during the night and try to start in the morning it takes 4-5 seconds without the cold start injector. But if the weather is really cold that means below 10C, it takes only 2 seconds. Another difference is without the cold start injector the rpm is 950-1000 and with cold start injector active the rpm is 1200 during the warm up phase. I really can not understand the cause of the problem? Any help is really appreciated. All the best.
Hello, thanks. Have you replaced the O2 sensor? If the car behaves well while cold and starts stumbling, jerking, has bad idle when warm, then your issue can be O2-sensor. If you haven't replaced it yet, consider replacing it. These have to be replaced each 30k miles(50k km).
First, a big thanks for all your videos. I have a w124 2.3e with the "modern" sensor. When it's cold, I measure 1.7kohms for the two points and not 2.5kohms. At 80°, I find 320ohms at one point and 345 ohms at the second point. Do you think that the sensor need to be change ? Thanks again ! Regards.
Hi and thanks. Concerning the cts(coolant temperature sensor) - all contacts must give same readings-2 of them are for the engine and second two for the EZL. At the temperature of 20 degreed C you must get 2.5 kiloohm. Well, 1.7kiloohm equals 30 degrees C. Well, how ever you decide but it would be nice if all contacts show same readings. Greetings
Please help, So im having issue with my cold start valve, and with my multimeter, i check the two pins on the coolant temp sensor, and my mutlimeter start beeping.. is that mean that i have bad sensor, or there is short in side the sensor?
Usually the values you have to get are 2.5kohms when the engine is cold and 350ohms when it's at 80 degrees C. Do the check like me in the video. If this is not the case then it's either the sensor or the wiring.
Do you need to test both poles in the two pin sensor? Mine reads fine from one pole, but nothing from the other pole. Does this mean that the sensor is bad?
Hello , first off all you are so cool , I have c126 and w126 I have big issue on both off them to start it in the morning (cold) , any tips for me pls ?, this cts is asame on my models aswell? Thank you kind regards Raul
Hi Thanks for this informative video. Well done. How do you check for newer models again, parallel like you said, means side by side of the sensor? But i see you sticking the red multimeter lead to the sensor hole? Start of no need to start the car? Thank you
Parallel I meant one against the other ;-) I have an older type of a sensor, so you will have to measure it different than me. Do it one against the other. Thanks for the comment, greetings
Great video. Still having hard start issues. Injectors and accumulator changed. Just checked this sensor. Cold: I got 950. Warm: I got 65. So much lower than what you got. Bad sensor?
@@sophiathe380sl With both of them. With this value of 65ohm for example the ECU thinks that the coolant temperature is over 120 C and the EZL moves the timing in extreme retard and there are your issues.
@@mercedeske I just got the new sensor for my 1984 R107 380SL. I pulled out the old 2 prong. The old one has a stem (dip stick) about an inch from the bottom but the new one from Uro does not. Is that normal?
Buenas noches cordial saludo quería preguntarte cual es la temperatura normal de trabajo de el motor 102 de un Mercedes Benz w124 pues mi carro enciende el magneto de el ventilador a los 100 grados Celsius y quiero saber si esta temperatura es la correcta o debo cambiar el sensor por uno que me encienda el ventilador a menor temperatura muchas gracias por tu colaboración
Buenas noches. Tenía el original de Behr, supongo que encendía el ventilador a 100 grados, pero no estaba contento, así que compré uno de Behr que enciende el ventilador a 85. Si quieres ese, busca Behr TSW5D, es su etiqueta. Hay uno que enciende el ventilador a 85 y el otro a 90 y algo, no estoy seguro. Como prefiero que mi motor funcione a la temperatura de funcionamiento y no por encima de los 85 grados, mi ventilador siempre está encendido, por así decirlo. Tú decides como quieras. 100 grados es demasiado para mí y tengo un motor W124 M102. Espero haberte sido de ayuda. Muchas saludos de mi...
Hello I have the 1987 mercedes 300d w124. Is it possible to make the auxilary Family come on at lower temp. Where I live it gets to over 100f often And the fan does not come on low speed untill 100c and high speed is 110c It is hard to drive with air cond. I have replaced both temp switches on the head Also new auxilary fan and clutch fan. I have seen people use a resistor on the 2 pole temp switch but my car has 3 pole temp switch. What can I do. Thank you for your time and video. Robert
Hello, I'd like to ask for your help. Engine 102.982 CAT 230te '86 my idle is everytime about 800 rpm. It starts fine in cold and warm temperature. The cold starts injector has voltage as long as the motor starter is running. Then, after starting the engine, the voltage on the plug drops to zero. Coolant temperature sensor is ok. OVP, ECU and fuel pump relay are already exchanged. The cold injector and ICV are working well. Where else is the problem that the engine doesn't achieve 1200 rpm after engine start? Thank you in advance for your response. Greetings from Poland, Tomek
Hello. Don't worry, everything is fine, you just have an older version of the system. On your system that is not supposed to happen. That feature starts from september 1989 as the catalytic convertor has to be preheated for 28 seconds raising RPM to 1200 when the car is totally cold. Greetings from Serbia, Ivica
The coolant temperature sensor. There should be number on it or a mark when you remove it. If nothing then search on ebay as Mercedes W124 coolant temperature sensor. Then look for your car, the year if production.
Hi, my 190e has a very specific problem, it starts fine, cold or warm, no problems, but when it was warm and it sits for 25 min and I try to turn it on it goes for one short moment to like 800rpm and shuts immediately off, after that it is very difficult to start it, in the summer nearly impossible, it cranks and cranks without starting, do you maybe know what it could be?
Try testing the injectors. Take them out and put plastic glasses under each of them. Deflect the sensor plate for about 5 seconds and then measure the time. If the injectors don't drip fuel within 2 minutes, they are okay! I suppose you know how to turn the fuel pump on?
Poštovanje Ivice gde može da se nadje ovaj senzor sa dva pina ,posto sam sad merio kod mene kad je hladan pokazuje 2,12,a kad je vruc 0,33 gledao sam na siluksu ima neki senzor ali su drugaciji pinovi
@@mercedeske kakve sam srece izgleda da cu morati u ponedeljak da probam u auto ranču u Mladenovcu ,nigde nema na stanju ,ja vidim ujutru mi tesko pali i ako ne drzim gas on se ugasi a sto se vise auto zagreva obrtaji rastu dodje cak i do 1300 obrtaja ,u svakom slucaju hvala za savet 🙂
Pozdrav, ako na ovaj deo misliš, služi da javi kompjuteru da je auto postigao radnu temperaturu i da ne treba više da obogaćuje smešu, pa se samim tim smanjuje potrošnja goriva.
@@ayhan8137 Da budem iskren, nisam siguran, nisam dolazio sa tim u dodir. Koji motor imas?Mozda je ekrktrokuplung unutrasnjeg ventilatora, spoljasnji ventilator, instrument u kabini...
Well, it turns to be like that, but it is because I have an older model of the sensor and as you stick the positive of the multimeter, nothing can be seen, the negative goes on the chassis.
