Mercedes R107 Sills - the Achilles Heel of this classic 

Thanks for your kind comments - really appreciated.

Thanks for your comment - these detailed videos can be really boring unless of course you plan to actually do the job! Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars they're not fpr everyone no, but for some enthousiasts they can be really helpful, it's greatly appreciated!

@@MetaldetectingFriesland Thanks.

Thanks for you comment. Mike

Thanks for your comment - and I hopen your repairs go well. This video shows clearly why it is not advisable to jack up a R107 using the jacking points. Unfortunately one of the junior apprentices in my local classic car garage jacked my classic Fiat 238 van up on the jacking point and the last video on this channel shows substantial amount of welding necessary to fix the issue. Mike in England

@@MikesMercsandothercars wow I hope those repairs go well also, I’ll keep my eye out for new vids 👍🏻

Thanks for your comment. Usually if rust is showing up on the outside of the sills, it means there is plenty more rust hiding where you can’t see it. Good luck when you come to you do yours and let me know how you get on. Mike

Yes- I couldn't agree more. It was one of the first things I looked for when purchasing the current 280SL project (see 4.10 in ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-67M-GX_y_3E.html) My first ever car (silver 280SL) is a great example of how NOT to repair the sills: See 4.58 in ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FOHQUobhnOI.html One day when I finish the red 280SL, it will be time to redo the sills on my silver 280SL....not looking forward to that job. Mike

Hello - don't quote me on this but here is what I think the arrangement is: 1. The Oval sill rings are welded to the outer sill for additional strength and to cover the hole. 2. The outer part of the jacking tube is welded to the sill rings...but not to the actual sill. It is the sort of question that the SL Shop my be able to answer definitively since you purchased the parts from them. Good luck with this repair - I hope you post details online. Mike

Hi Mike thanks for responding, I’ll send you photos in next few weeks, I’m also replacing N/S/R inner wheel arch and outer half wheel arch panel…Progress is slow but have gained confidence by watching your videos… thanks

Thanks for your comment. I would say that the chance of getting a euro sl or slc rust free are almost zero...unless it has been garaged most of its life. Yes...in my experience, small rust spots generally hide bigger issues...especially near the rear wheel arch and front sill. Usually, what people do is cover the underside with Waxoil or some other thick coating which hides rust quite well. Here are some of the things I would do at the inspection. 1. Check that the sills have drainage holes and put your fingers inside the drainage wholes and see if you can feel the side of the inner drainage channel shown at 2.28 in ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eSWHgXEmPr4.html 2. Has the outer sill had a new outer sill repair panel welded over its entire length - if so look at the two jacking holes for signs of rist and put your fingers or a screwdriver down the holes to see if they are solid. 3. Check for leaks in the trunk as SL's usually leak through the rear light seals. Look under tyeh carpet for dampness....and signs of repair. 4. If possible, take out the spare wheel and look for rust in the wheel well. Does the car still have the original jack and wheel brace in the trunk? 5. Look at the front headlights and see if the reflector bowls are showing signs of rust...they usually are and this can be pricey to get rechromed. Any spots of rust round the headlight section of the front wing usually means that the inner headlight bowls will be rusted out. This could mean a new set of wings and painting etc. 6. Open the bonnet and if possible look under the battery tray for sign of rust. The drain holes in the inner wing get blocked and you get rust. 7. If possible poor some water down the vents above the front bonnet. It should drain out under the car through a rubber tube by teh gear box...and NOT into the front foot well. 8. Make sure speedo andmileometer work and that the indicator stalk works ...and also the heaters Hope that helps and have fun with your new purchase - let me know how it goes and what model etc. At some stage, I will do a video on all the things to look for when you buying an SL. Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars thank you for your answer, the car I’m going to see first is a 79 slc280 with a tan leather or mb tex, it will need new upholstery for sure, it’s probably in good mechanical condition, I’ll let you know more about it after I see it. Cheers

@@Dajciemispokojznickiem Thanks for your comment.....if you end up getting the car and replacing the upholstory...dont make the mistake I did and buy cheap stuff. Spend in haste - repent at leisure. Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars Hi I’ve seen 3 cars today, the slc I mentioned before, it’s very sound mechanically, the lower part of the body seems ok, but the upper body is a bit of a disaster, lots and lots of rust bubbles under the paint, almost on every panel, some of the chrome trim even got deformed and couple of parts are missing, interior also needs a complete rebuild, the driver seat is completely broken. Plus a broken windshield. It’s just too much for me. I’ve also seen an American slc380 with superb interior very nice mechanically one rust spot but it turned out it’s out of budget. The third car is a yellow sl450 from California. I was stunned by the fact that it’s absolutely free of rust. It runs, just needs a bit of tlc. Interior is complete, not torn just needs thorough cleaning and maybe a leather respray. It’s missing a windshield washer reservoir. I’ll probably buy it.

Hi - wow that is a good question. My gut feeling is "Yes" it would work but having said that I personally wouldn't take the risk. If you have gone to the trouble of exposing this section, my advice would be to do the best possible job. Where are you based? I have panel bond and you could probably borrow my gun. Mike

Thanks Mike and appreciate your kind offer. I am based in Singapore so that's way too far away. By the way, I watched almost all your R107 videos and am grateful to you to have learnt a so much!

Yes Singpore is a bit far....Certain equipment is always easy to resell and the 3M panel bond gun comes into that category. You buy one..and then you sell it after using it. Hope the repair/restoration goes well. Mike@@bennielim5715

Hi - repairing the sills is a REALLY big job which I have putting off. Ideally, you need to weld a brace across the door and from door to door to stop any movement when you take the old sill off. On my silver 280SL, I will need to replace the inner sill and the outer sill...and probably the front cross members and floor pans. I also have those outer sill panels welded on...with no drainage holes. Maybe this could be your chance to start your own channel....probably the reason why you cant find any info is that it is not a job that most non professionals would attempt. Film everything as you take it apart, so that you can remember how it goes together. If you are UK based, have a look at the panels the SL shop have available: parts.theslshop.com/search?query=sill#query=sill&filter_car-type.filter=sl%20107&items_per_page=48&sort_method=_score/desc&page=1 You wont know exactly how to proceed until you start peeling back the layers of that 'rotten' onion. You might be able to repair what is already there...or may have to replace the lot. I am building up the resolve to do this job myself...one day. Mike

Thank you so much for your answer. I’m outside of Sockholm. Found the repair pieces at mb classic in Germany. Tearing the whole car down. It is empty inside and the engine is completely taken apart. Out for measuring now. Have good help. I discovered holes where the front belts are on the inner sills. Both sides. Then after watching your videos (seen them all several times) I could confirm that someone made the classic hack job of putting those cheap full length covers with no holes. I’m on Benzworld, renovating my 450 slc if you want to take a look. I will be carefull going in to the sills. I hope they are not completely rubbish. Maybe buy parts to be able to see where to go in so not take to much away if you know what I mean. Thanks again for the reply.

Good luck with your restoration and send me a link to your Benzworld account so that I can see your progress. Mike in England.@@christianbaraldi2137

Thanks for your comment. Bottom of the doors nearly always rust out especially in Europe. Drain holes get blocked and its all over. I have never seen a repair panel for the doors (most people just try and source a good door and repaint it). But I will have a look and get back to you. Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars 👍

@@mikehawkins5815 Hello - so, it transpires that there are door skin repair panels available. I believe the Mercedes part number is A1077200509 From the The SL Shop in the UK the link is: www.theslshop.com/parts-shop/mercedes-benz-sl-r107-door-skin-repair-panel-right.html They also are listing a complete door skin on ebay item number 265028638097 From SLS in Germany the link is: www.sls-hh-shop.de/main/en/72-doors-72-b-door-frequently-asked-items-overview-c-4_2478_165 In America try: www.kkmfg.com/catalog_loader2.php?page=107bodypanels.xml

Thanks for your comment. Do you need any particular part? You should be able to use mb-teilekatalog.info to get the Merc part numbers for your car. What country are you in? Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars Good morning Mike, Thanks for your reply. I’m currently repairing damage from a front end collision on my 380SLC the panels and parts required were sourced from a donor vehicle. Whilst the vehicle is off the road I’m taking the opportunity to repair any other paint damage. Whilst doing so I have come across corrosion to the O/S sill around the front jacking point. So far I require a replacement outer sill and eccentric washer. I have not completed the inspection so there may be more repair panels required . I’m in Cambridgeshire UK.

@@howardchapman5143 Hello - the SLC's are slightly different when it comes to sills. The link below gives you gives you the picture and part numbers for the INNER sill and associated jacking supports: mb-teilekatalog.info/view_SubGroupAction.php?lang=E&mode=BM&class=1&aggtyp=FG&catalog=048&model=107025&group=61&subgrp=015 The link below shows the picture and associated part numbers for the outer sill: mb-teilekatalog.info/view_SubGroupAction.php?lang=E&mode=BM&class=1&aggtyp=FG&catalog=048&model=107025&group=63&subgrp=015 You can get most parts form The SL Shop but always check the prices with Mercedes as sometimes the latter is cheaper. When you come to buy the outer sill, bear in mind that most of the items listed on eBay etc are for outer sill COVERS and not the actual sill. It is quite an expensive and time consuming job replacing the sill etc. Are you undertaking this work yourself? Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars Good evening Mike, I am carrying the work out at college, so I have the help and guidance of my tutor. I was not aware that there was an outer sill cover so I will need to investigate further to discover what will need replacing. Thank you for your help so far, I’m back in college the end of next week so may speak to you then.