Dear Diary . I went fishing today with my buddy and we caught lotsa fish. Came home watched this video and gained confidence to clean the carb on my 2007 9.9. My problem presented as ruff running and shutting down after 3 minutes. Could only start it by continued pushing of the prime bulb on motor. I followed the teacher here and cleaned my carb . Started first pull. My teacher is number 1 . Tip from my son, use a old tackle box to separate parts as you take things apart. 😉
great video, you do nice meticulous work, great job with video angles, I am retired mechanic, that used to work on exclusively 1950's - late 70's OMC outboards, 20 years ago, I decided to check this out to see what tools I might need and such for the job on a neighbors sailboat kicker. very straight forward compared to the latest tohatsu 4 strokes with EFI and all the electronics .. I am happy my neighbors was an 07, straight carb.. easy deal... thanks again for sharing..
Great video!! I like your casual, no-nonsense, yet informative approach. I watch a lot of videos on RU-vid and it seems like most have one issue or another...I don't want to hear about their weekend or have to adjust the volume or fast-forward fifteen minutes to the next piece of important info. Yours was ideal. Lighting could be better, but I got the idea. I've subscribed. Thank you.
Thank you I was able to follow these instructions clean out my carb. It will idle and shift from reverse to neutral to forward to idle. Prior to the cleaning my symptoms on my 2008 Marc 8.8 were that it would barely start, barely idle and die soon, die immediately trying to shift into any gear from idle. It would start on prop disengaged, full throttle, but die as you went down towards idle. I have also taken to shutting off the engine by removing the gas line and letting it run the fuel out of the carb to minimize varnish buildup and idle fouling.
I've now had several versions of this motor. My latest is a 2006 209cc 8hp Mercury four stroke. One of the first thing that I've learned about keeping these carbs running perfectly especially when using them as a kicker IS TO FORGET ABOUT FACTORY SPECS. I'm not saying not use the specs at all, but if I use them I use them as "guide lines" when tuning these outboard carbs. Thanks for the vid! I'm very sure that it will save many fisherman a lot of hard earned cash at the dealerships.
Great video. Very intuitive. I have a problem with my 2015 9.9 Merc as of tonight. I think I may have a carb issue. The motor is only a month old and only have had it running of 6 occasions....so far. I am not too mechanically savey, so I will be taking it to a shop. Thanks for for your nice videos.
Is that main jet pressed fit into there? You didn't remove it and based on the diagram for that carb it looks like it should fall out, but my nephews 2006 9.9 I couldn't get that main jet out to see if the holes are clear.
Well done on the video however the majority of filth in these carbs resides in the accelerator pump. If you don't clean that out then what's the point? Oh, and dont lose the spring when you take the cover off.
Thank you for great detailed video!...I have the same motor and am cleaning carb today...now I know how. If you are still seeing comments do you have any tips for keeping motor locked down when in reverse? For some reason it likes to flip out of the water when shifting into reverse...I found I can lash it down with rope but hoping for a better solution. Thanks again for vid!
There should be a latch that holds the motor from raising up when in reverse. Maybe something is broken or not in place. There should be a 1/4 inch pin about seven inches long down there to.
if my main jet o ring is super crusty, does anyone know of a kit of place i can order either a new jet or new o ring? I am having a very difficult time finding one online. Am trying the dealer tomorrow. But i figured id ask online and see what yous have to say!
I notice you didn't take the emulsion tube out for cleaning; it probably didn't fall out when you unscrewed the main jet because it was stuck in contaminants deposited by fuel deterioration. This could explain why your engine still wasn't running properly after cleaning.
Hi Gerry, you are right, I did not. I later removed the carb again, drilled out the plug from the carb jet screw and found a small piece of plastic/metal casting on the seat. It (the plastic)is actually visible in the video at about the 10 min mark, I failed to notice it at that time. It has since run like a charm.
Уважаемый можно немного помедленнее и с переводом? мне очень нужен ваш инструктаж по данному мотору, так как у меня похожий лодочный мотор ТАХАТСУMFS9.8 A3
Remove the small factory brass plug covering the screw. I drilled a 1/8 inch hole into the plug, bear in mind the plug is approx 3/16 thick. Then I pulled the plug out with needle nose pliers. The screw factory setting is approx 1 and 1/2 turns from the stop. Be gentle winding the screw in. At 10:14 the tip of the screw is visible in the video, lower right side. Make sure no grit, dirt, fibres etc are lodged in the screw seat area.
Good afternoon,I found this video to be excellent in all aspects,thank you ! I also have a newly aquired 2007 Mercury 9.9 four stroke that is in real good shape but i have an off topic question that maybe you could answer for me since you have the same year & model as mine. I just bought a rubber fueline connector cap with a rubber strap/lanyard with tits on it that looks like it pulls through a hole in the motor housing somewhere but i can't find where & would appreciate if you could tell me where the rubber strap connects to the motor ( if you have one on yours) Thanks again for taking the time to make this video ,i am sure that it will help a lot of other boaters !
The rubber fuel line cap, that covers the clip pin and the gasline valve, has a small strap that pushes thru a hole right beside where the gas line passes into the housing. Since I almost never unclip my gas line from the motor, the cap just hangs there.
No, its cast into the body. Usually its the needle that gets damaged, not the seat. Check the needle for bends, a broken tip, or wear marks. The setting is approx 1 and 1/2 turns out from seated. Trouble happens if you take the needle out and dirt or metal gets into the seat. Usually compressed air will get that stuff out.
Nowadays pretty much everything in North America is metric, except the building industry and groceries. Anyway I believe this is a rebranded Tohatsu, made in Japan.
