MESH TAPE VS PAPER TAPE!!!!!!! 

Mesh plus hot mud is adequate, Iv taped thousands of house this way with little issue with cracking . Blown paper is the only issue I hear about in the uk. The other consideration is profile of joints , mesh is lower profile so you don’t have to build out the butt joint to 3 feet lol I don’t put mesh in the corners but plasters do and have been for years so it’s not a issue either, you fold mesh over a corner and flush hot mud over it ..it can’t blow it won’t crack within Normal conditions. Honestly in Europe and in the uk we use mesh on just about every new build house, I live in one and there’s no cracking . In my whole working life Iv only ever seen mesh crack under extreme weather/environmental conditions so propane burners etc Iv seen many many paper tape blow outs, it’s the number one complaint in finished homes here.

I'm an "old" carpenter that also occasionally does small bits of drywall. Your advice is very helpful. I've tried to like mesh tape thinking there must be a significant advantage but one I never could find. I think I've had the same slightly used roll of mesh sitting in my shop for years. Every once in a while I'll take another stab at using it but always find it problematic. I figured it was just my lack of skill. Thanks, your videos are much appreciated even by a guy that has been working at this for years. You are also courageous for teaching to such an opinionated lot (as are carpenters, well, it's actually the whole world).

This is one of your better videos because it covers a single topic, gives explanation of the science and then most importantly, quick real world examples of how to apply what you taught, thanks!!

Even with hot mud it’s still vulnerable to cracking, I’ve seen drywall a year old crack from mesh and hot mud. I plain don’t use mesh period. Good to inform people that mesh tape is an inferior product. Thank you for your service!

I love you man! I watch your videos WAAAAY too much....just did a small project ( baseboards) went south when previous installers glued everything down...ripped out chunks of my drywall! My son was helping me....and I’m like “ I got this!”.. fixed the drywall. Taped, textured and it’s like it never happened...my son was thinking his mom has mad drywall skills! I took the praise ( he’s 21...I need all those moments I can get) ...but here’s to you my friend, Ben. You made me look good! Kudos

This guy definitely has a point ..but I have been doing painting for 10 years and some gyprock work ...never got a call back from customers complaining about cracks ..I prepare the joints well for my self because I'll be painting it ..if you do it right from a to z you have no worries at all ..multi purpose compound on mesh or paper is wrong ..use the one you mix it with water not premixed..wall corners definitely paper not mesh ..keep in mind if your not used to paper it could create air bubbles ..cheers

I'm a DIYer so thanks for sharing. I really like how you simply explain how and why you do something along with the amount of detail you impart.

Great explanation. Over the years Ive used mesh for patches but now have my whole basement to mud, so started to try paper after watching your channel. Many thanks.

Ben. I love your vids. You are the only person to point out the fact and the possible problem with paper tape and hot mud. I had a hole behind a bathroom mirror that needed patched. I covered it with hot mud and paper tape. An hour later I noticed that the tape had raised up of the wall a little bit. Thanks for the great vids. Can't walt to see you do something different besides drywall

You got it. There’s no debate among us drywall finishers. Paper tape with All Purpose. However, while I haven’t used it, I suspect Fiber Fuse is a good go between.

Thanks for taking the time to put these videos together! Currently doing drywall repairs after a contractor re-pipe on the house. Started out doing small repair jobs as an Apt. manager in the 90's. Still using a pretty basic kit of 3 knives and just upgraded to a tin mud pan to avoid plastic chunks in the finish. Again, thanks so much for making this information available!

About 5 min in, I wondered why you would ever use mesh, and by the end you addressed that very question. Excellent video, very informative! Thanks.

Not sure why some of the commentators watch this if so they're going to do is argue... This was really useful. I like the high standard you work to. As a pro-amateur renovator (24 projects under my belt), finding your site has been fabulous. Thanks.

Mesh tape for flats using only - Hot mud (sheetrock - 90, 45, 20, 5) for 2 coats and final coat with premix Paper tape for corners using pre mix on all 3 coats

Homeowner here with lots of drywall to patch. (Not quite as much as the Frankenstein walls you are stitching together.) I used exclusively mesh bc it does stick easily. You convinced me to try paper and it has been easy to use, at least for me, and it is much more forgiving. Well, that and the other tips @ wall prep, sanding, tools, etc.

This is a great explanation, thank you! I am fixing a popcorn ceiling that mesh tape was used and there is multiple cracks. I appreciate this video.

Thank you! I've been doing a full remodel, I've only ever used paper, but I saw a short video where someone was using mesh, and got curious. I've had ZERO problems with my paper tape, I guess I'll still be sticking with the tried and true!

When the Flash isn't saving Central City, he's drywalling.

I'm a 60 yr old drywaller - with 40 yrs experience - this guy is correct &, good explanation ! well done!

That was probably the best explanation of tapes I’ve ever seen. Mind blown. I have had mesh tape crack before, along a whole butt joint.

I love Fiba Fuse. It's a glass mat drywall tape. The mud bonds with it. It's very easy to float out. All tapes have their best applications. 👍

Hi Ben firstly thank you so much for all of your videos they are incredibly detailed in ALL of the best ways! You are a gifted teacher!! I highly respect your knowledge and the incredible skills that you are so graciously sharing with us on here. You are entertaining while also being full of so many vital tips! For weeks and weeks I have hyperfocused on absorbing everything you have to say about drywalling, lol I even have a little notebook that I write all of your tips in as I watch your videos for me to reference back to while renovating so I don't forget anything important(I have adhd). I'm currently working on my husbands office which is a mix of freshly hung sheets (10mm) and older painted drywall (9.5mm) with every different type of joint possible all needing to be taped and majority needing floating out (think like a mix of your nasty reno video series mixed with your settlement crack video, your mud framing videos and add james and the giant patch), there was some rusted metal beading on the outside corners where the bottom of the skylight shaft meets the ceiling (we have a new roof now so the historical water ingress issue is sorted) that I ripped out, there was a crack either side of the skylight opening coming from the edge of the shaft where the ceiling boards meet (from poorly planned drywall cutting/hanging by a previous owner) the ceiling crack either side also had no tape on it when I sanded it back to check, no supportive framing behind the cracked drywall between joists (I went up into the roof and added blocking/dwangs) behind the seams and discovered it was poorly laminated (due to age now flexible ) original horsehair plaster, plus the room has multiple sources of light coming in at different angles and times of the day (window+skylight+door) so floating it out well and skimming will be essential to make it not look like a dogs breakfast. I love to study the next steps in my reno before jumping in so it is more likely to be successful and I'd rather not have to pull out my poorly laid tape or corner bead out (so your videos have absolutely saved me!!!!) My house is nearly 100yrs old (in New Zealand) and I'm trying to do as much of it myself as possible so your videos have been absolutely invaluable to me!!! IMO you are the gold standard 👑🏆for drywall knowledge and skill and I'm so grateful you choose to share that with the world - Thank you so so much!! ❤ Any chance you could PLEASE do a video with your opinions on these products and/or doing a comparison video of Strait-Flex Crack-Tape/Tuff tape VS Fibafuse Tapes? Please 🙏I know you don't like the Fibafuse because its super itchy and I have only seen you do a few videos that use either brands products (I know paper tape is THE WAY majority of the time) but I have a few bits in this office reno and also other parts of the house that I think may call for them and because I'm in a super small country and the only places to ask opinions about this as a DIYer are either online forums (which I don't know how much I can trust the commenters opinions - there are a lot of cowboys here) or talk to the sales rep who just wants to sell me the product. You are the only one I trust to ask about this! I hope you see this 🤞I know its an older video 🤞 Sending you all the good vibes from NZ 🥝🥝

I used nothing but mesh tape with all-purpose mud when I lived in northern Illinois, never had a crack, used the same when I moved to Las Vegas and close to half my joints cracked , tried mesh with hot mud, better but still some hairline cracks, now nothing but paper and no more cracks. So I would say environment plays a lot into the debate.

holy crap, I used to be a fan of mesh on flat seams not any more, I've seen what you are talking about; THANK YOU.

I am moving away from paper tape I have a few rolls and when they are finished I am never going back. Hot mud with mesh tape will never bubble, crack or peel. I only use 5, 20 and 90 minute mud I am done with all premixed mud

Thank you. I've done drywall off and on through the years. I just got my first job from a homeowner and that really helped clear some things up thank you

Torsional an shear strength... you're not making up words dude that's a perfect description.

Great explanations on the paper vs. mesh for do it yourselfers like me. I've always wanted to know the difference and I've always been told that there's really no difference. GREAT JOB on the explanation!!!

all of your videos are absolutely killer. thanks for posting them!

Thank you so so much for this and other vids. I have a 95 YO home that I have done a lot of reno to. Many jobs were not able to be done with the "it's all gotta go" (you know who) philosophy. To expensive being the main reason. As such I have had to do a lot of Blending from Drywall to plaster over wood lathe. LOTS OF FUN! :( Mesh has seemed to be the best solution for these joints as there is never an even thickness to blend. So I became comfortable with mesh. After doing an ACTUAL "it's all gotta go" (almost all) on the kitchen thanks to your videos I managed two pretty good amateur 45 degree vertical drywall joints from floor to ceiling. Sold on paper now. For sure mesh still has a place but less so for sure.

I like mesh tape on butt joints because it can be sanded almost flat; paper tape needs to be mudded on both sides, so there is always an embarrassing bulge to blend-in. Mesh is also good for an "irreparable" fault line that's so busy that it makes paper tape bubble up or peel; you just paint on a few layers of mesh and skim the mud over it when it dries. Mesh might also be better near the ocean or in a bathroom; I've seen houses on the coast in which half the paper-taped joints are curling and peeling. Finally, if you use mesh on a corner, for whatever reason, just make sure that one panel goes all the way into the corner and the other gets all the tape, so that the corner itself is the fault line; I can't imagine trying to fold mesh the way paper is folded.

As usual. This was super helpful VC. I started another project and was having a bit of challenge on what tape to use in a ceiling cut out from moving a light fixture to the center of the ceiling. It hit me right there and then. "What tape is best for this job"? So I thought to myself, "go watch VC". And of course. I got my answers. By the way I ended up using Fibafuse after watching "taping the nasty remodel", and it turned out great. Thanks for everything you do for us DIY'ers.

Please review the fiberglass tape...looks like paper but is woven fiberglass...It works best for me.

I'm an IT pro not a drywall pro but this has been my experience... If there's cracking then you're getting movement where you shouldn't be so there are structural or panel installation issues that need to be addressed. I make sure the framing is complete & solid, glue & screw every sheet of drywall, then mesh tape everywhere (yes, even the corners!). No issues with cracking on all four houses I've completed in the last 8 years but I know that's nothing compared to someone who does this as their primary occupation. But that's been my results anyway.

I've been a professional drywaller for 20 years. Paper tape is superior for inside corners (and mainly because mesh tends to break when trying to get a tight corner) but mesh tape (especially the newer Extra Strength Fibatape) with quickset (hot mud) is every bit as strong as paper. The key is that you should never use any premixed mud for the first coat.

I use both of the tapes but like Matt, I chose paper for corners and I don't like sanding with the mesh, you get to a point when sanding over mesh that it suddenly shows and it's a problem. Paper sands better.

While doing my reno and drywall, paper tape has been such a pain to work with. I have used both mesh and paper in various patches. Not really sure what u mean with quick set but i used 45 minute work time mud. Anyways as a non professional diy guy i will opt for mesh in further work as i have better results with sanding the wall flat

Just to add that mesh tape won't make it in hot places, hot countries let's say. Here in Portugal everyone uses paper tape because mesh tape cracks in about 50% of the situations. In turn it can be used for small repairs or small lengths without any problems. Good luck everyone.

Some very good points. I have always used mesh for the small projects including the latest bathroom renovation. I used mesh but I also stabled the mesh on either side to secure the joint more. Stabling may address the shrinkage of the mud as mentioned in vid keeping the mesh in tension. Stabling is very quick and mud covers it well.

20 seconds in, correct, no debate paper tape rules, better fill, try folding mesh tape for a corner, it sucks. It's fine for small job or patch. This expert says paper too.👍 and mesh self adhesive wouldn't work in Ames taping systems. (Bazooka).

I'm no pro but I've done a ton of drywall. I have used mesh tape exclusively. without problems. I use a double application of the mesh on the joint(it's sticky) and then comes the mud. Works for me.Easy peasy......

Great video eh! Many years ago when mesh tape was just invented I used that mesh tape thinking this will make taping our living room so much easier (however I did used paper in the corners)... Well every single flat joint has cracks going across it. I have to re-do ALL the joints in our living room. From this experience I really don't like that mesh tape, I'll make sure to only use paper for everything from now on. I just found your channel this evening and watched 3 so far, you know your stuff and explain things very well. Thumbs up! 👍🏼from Ontario 🇨🇦eh :)

Ben - spot on. Thanks for sharing - I always use paper. Like you said, it just needs to be put on correctly and no blisters or bubbles and a great bond.

I use the new mesh with diagonal strands , with regular mud now , fantastic upgrade to mesh, I have had great results….

If your not into tailgate warranties, you should try tail light warranties they're even quicker. As soon as you see my tail lights turn on the warranty is up. lol

agree totally. You probably can get away with using mesh on the field joint (recessed edge to recessed edge). But that is probably because the fast set would not crack with no tape at all applied that thick. Just my opinion. Never have issues using paper. On small patches I use paper and do not overlap the tape. I have heard that to put mesh on properly you must mud the wall then put the mesh in the wet mud. That seems really useless.

I've done 3 basements using the mesh tape and I've never had a problem with it. I like that you don't have to put a layer of mud down to embed the tape. Simply apply it and start the mudding process. Probably better for the amateur then the professional.

Your science is correct. Mesh tape is strong in tension and will buckle when air-dry mud cures. When quick-dry mud expands, it pre-tensions the mesh and makes it strong. Cracking is an issue that will arise when the joint moves. Before I watched this video, I was a mesh tape guy, but you have changed my mind.

They should make a paper mesh tape combo. Same thickness just benefit of both.

Glad I found your videos! It has been a while since my last drywall project and you have helped restore my confidence and shown me good new tips. Will be visiting again when I get to my crown and trim work. Cheers

Thank you.great video with facts.im just a diy guy with an older home.wife got me mesh once.i used on a patch on interior wall.now ill go get paper for my walls i tear out to re do.thanks again!!🖒🖒🖒

I disagree. I've been taping for 20 years now. Like you mentioned, as long as you use mesh with a quick setting material (sheetrock 90, durabond) you will have no issues. And whether you are using paper or mesh you should be pre filling with a quick set material anyways. I have seen thousands of cracks in my day and 90% of them are from paper tape. The ONLY reason you will not see pros use it very often is cost. Paper is a fraction of the cost of mesh. And if your a professional taper you are more then likely working for a drywall/taping company and there is no way they will spend the money on mesh.

Κύριε Ben , βλέπω τα βίντεο σας είμαι από την Ελλάδα και θα ήθελα να σας δώσω συγχαρητήρια για τα βίντεο σας είναι πολύ βοηθητικά! Ευχαριστώ πολύ για την βοήθεια που μου δώσατε!

Everything stated in vid is correct. A bit overkill on explaining, but correct. I've been and am still drywalling 30 years & i've been there done that & am considered a Master Drywaller by my peers. 1. If you buy a roll of (professional grade) Mesh tape, it will say in the instructions that it is to be used in combination w/quickset mud. As it will probably crack if you don't. So don't even think about going there. The only other place that you may wanna use mesh v.s paper is if you have a really hard area to reach like some goofy angle where it's hard to even get ur hand in there... that would be a good place to use mesh, as you will probably struggle w/paper (this situation don't arise too often, hardly never, but is worth mentioning as it can save one frustration) 2. Paper is stronger than mesh, meaning it is more crack resistant. And Paper Tape is cheaper. One reason you may wanna use mesh v.s paper is if you are using bull-nose sheetrock...which has a deeper seam to fill and so instead of having to prefill before papertaping, it would just be faster to put Mesh Tape on the flat joint and then squeeze the quickset mud through the tape, thus saving a step and saving time. I don't see much bullnose sheetrock/drywall panels these days, so i'm not even sure they make it anymore. Paper tape does not have to be used w/taping mud, but is the preferred method. I personally use Plus 3 and taping mud (half n' half is a good mixture) to do my taping with...Plus 3 is a finishing mud, not a taping mud. I know some tapers who use straight Plus 3 and no taping mud. The test to prove that you can use straight Plus 3 (with no taping mud) is to tape a joint, let it dry over night, then come back the next day when the mud is dry and pull the tape back off the joint...you will find that 1/2 tape stays on the wall/joint and the other half you are able to peel off the wall....and that is confirmation that you have a good enough bond. 3. Yes, do not use mesh in the angles/corners as it will tend to round the corners and not give you a true square corner/angle. Anybody who uses mesh in an angle is a BoneHead. 4. He is partially correct on using mesh for patches. If what he says about his small patches being securely fastened...well if that is the case then what i do (one better than him) is to use no tape at all....UNLESS there is a cover plate going on top of the patched area i.e light fixture, etc... where when the item being screwed down is putting pressure on the patched area, then i will tape it so the pressure don't crack the patch. Also i will tape if there's a big enough bustout i.e by an outlet(where there will be a cover plate) to where it looks weak (this comes w/experience). I had a taper that i used to work for, he used to not use tape on a patch up to 3footx3foot area... However he said that was testing the limits and maybe pushing it a bit too far. When you don't tape a patch, there are no hump caused by the (thickness of the) papertape and therefore makes the patch a whole lot easier/faster to complete. 5. So the biggest mistake i see in this vid is the Title. Properly renamed it should say "MESH TAPE VS PAPER TAPE VS NO TAPE!!!!!!! -- THE NO TAPE METHOD has literally saved me countless hours upon hours of time. But you should have good backers and have the rock (like mentioned in this vid) securely fastened when using the No Tape method. I rate this vid a B+ to an A-. Only because some crucial info was left out. Otherwise 2 THUMSUP DUDE!!

the only time i use mesh tape is when i have to fill a small hole, then again if the hole is big enough i just “hot patch” it. btw for those that don’t know what a “hot patch” is it’s when you cut your drywall bigger than the hole then cut the backside to fit the hole but leaving the paper on the front side usually about 2 inches per side

You still can see a fine crack if you use paper tape , if the tape coat is not completely dry and you 2nd coat it it's will possibly Result in having a hairline crack ..... this happens most likly in the colder months . ... just make sure your tape coat in the middle of the flat is completely dry and you will be fine . If the crack occurs it will need to be cut out on the crack to fix properly and start over.

I'm a big fan of the California patch on repairs. I use backing board and screws like a regular patch. No tape needed.

we use mesh tape in the UK on all joints, however walls a fully plastered which is a different technique and product to drywall finishing. Also plaster is "hot mud" which again bonds nicely to the mesh tape. The mesh is simply there to hold the plaster in the joints while it sets. I've used mesh to strengthen bad drywall installs or large holes with durabond before taping over the top with paper as usual. Personally I think a professional needs to know which product to use for which situation (as you clearly shown in this video). One size fits nothing is a term i frequently use.

This is the absolute truth. At least with standard bucket mud whether all purpose or top coat. I used mesh on long walls and had long cracks the whole way after a season or 2. Then I decided no more mesh on joints. I moved into my new home and the homeowner refinished the basement all in mesh tape and every ceiling joint has hairline cracks. It isn't even debatable.

Very helpful. First attempt at drywall so trying to figure out the best methods to use. Thank you!

Hey Vancouver Carpenter ! Congrats ! Your videos are well done and your experience is showing ! If you have a chance of trying our FibaFuse , i think you could find some good use for it ! Eg: Butt Joints, closets or garages .... it really blends into your Ready Mix Compound or Setting Compound (Hot Mud) so you usually do not need to build as wide of a joint as with paper tape !! Many tapers i have met across Canada have been working with it and have very positive feedbacks !

Lol, I always called it the “taillight warranty”. Same idea.🤘

Thanks my mom wants her ceiling in her kitchen done and it has paper tape on all joints and corners and it’s coming up. So they were saying to use the mesh but after watching this it think I might go with the paper. But the thing is the whole kitchen needs to get new tape and paint. So I need some support in this issue

Great video, but future note. don't just slap the paper tape on the backsplash for the tile guy. The tile surface is one of the most important areas that should be meshed tapes with alkaline resistant mesh tape backfilled with a modified thinset.

Mesh tape in corners is a mess. Pain in the ass. This was a informative video.

Fiberglass tape is kinda my new jam. Completely different set of properties.

You can tape all the seems in a House with Mesh, if you use quickset I used 210 minute quick set and ran it with a 5 inch box it actually stays stronger nicer and is alot faster if you work Alone, the joints alway get paper for sure and if you try this be sure to have a spray hose ready to clean youre tools before they dry..

Have you try to smooth out the dried plaster with mesh tape underneath ? Chances are when sanding down and exposing those mesh fibers, they tend to hair up, either vertically or at an angle to the wall. No paint can keep them lay down flush. When done painting it will reminds you of your choice on mesh but paper, for the rest of your life.

Excellent video. Always wondered why I didn't see mesh all over job sites.

Your videos are pure gold!! Thank you so much for sharing all this info!!!

Guy is 100% correct. I've been doing drywall repairs and taping for 20 years. Mesh is only to be used for patches. Any joints that will have movement might crack if mesh is used. Even mesh and hot mud cracks.

New to the dry wall taping . An this was very *handy info for my 1st day of work

I love mesh and use it all the time

Metal corner beads plus mesh for windows - paper for everything else.

I’m just a weekender, but have used mesh and air-dry mud exclusively and have never had the issue described. That said, I’ll be switching to paper tape. The last time I tried it I had air bubbles / it wouldn’t stay down, but i know that was my lack of skill with it.

Try Fiba Fuse. Comes in standard 2 inch rolls and you can get wider rolls as well. Works very well with regular mud and hot mud and you can run it through a bazooka.

As a DIYer on various rental units, never had problems with mesh and premixed mud in a 5 gal buckets. Not in a hurry like a contractor, few days for mud to dry is not a problem - need to comeback for other repairs. Outside corners use a corner tool but I use special paper tape with strips of reinforced metals. I'm trying out the long clear plastic sticky back corner strip protectors once painting is finished. All tenants smashed in building corners moving in and out with furniture, as expected. I see older track homes some tapes are peeling out, hanging on the ceilings. Don't stick so well as it ages, maybe wasn't installed properly when house was build. Around window and door corners with concentrated stresses, nothing works either mesh or paper, even solid sheetrock will crack if house moves. I'm in earthquake zone under/near San Andreas Fault. Only mud few times a year (not every day like the pros) so what do I know anyway.

not making up words, just using existing words incorrectly. Very useful video. Thank you.

You need to check out the multitude of tests that The Kilted Guy has been doing. Its very interesting. He used fibafuse,paper and mesh. Used three tupe muds. Bent the pieces pulled them with scales to see their breaking point. Vibrated. The overall winner was fibafuse with hot mud. Last result i saw. Its interesting.

The reason for mesh tape is commercial use non movement walls and paper tape is for residential house movements

I never knew that. I thought it was just preference. Makes total sense. Thanks.

Tri-X mesh with flex mud - never a problem, if applied properly. Back to regular mud for stippling brush and other finish work, though.

Hey, ben. Post tension concrete work does make the concrete stronger. It is a bit different, also, in that the structural strength of PT concrete is from the concrete. In drywall, the strength of a joint is going to come from the fibre tape much more than from the mud matrix. It's a pretty good analogy, but also a little different in principle under scrutiny. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge. I really enjoy these vidz of yours.

I do commercial renovations for a living and am working in a building that was tapped with mesh tape and I find it very hard to demo drywall that has been mesh tape much more so than paper tape

You should try Fibrefuse, been using it for the last 6 years with quickset basecoat, no call backs, no cracking even in Wellington NZ where we get earthquakes regularly, only thing it doesn't do is corners.

If you run apla tech tools you can use mesh in corners no problem. They have a dry banjo with roller for mesh. First second and third coat with anglehead.

hey bud, in some drywall companies in Toronto we signed a paper that we're not using Mesh tape to cover any joints what so ever in residential. mesh tape is done... it is good only for small patches

In 28 years of rock & rolling (hanging sheet rock & taping mud) I've had cracks from mesh a couple of times at most and paper just plain rips (shows a long crack) when a house settles

I had to do some drywall for the first time and don't really know anything but I tried to wing it as I went. What I had issues with was with joints that aren't tapered like with old drywall and new drywall, paper tape was much thicker especially in the center (at least the one I got) which made my job alot harder but then I switched to meshed tape which pretty much eliminated that issue since it's a lot thinner

I watched another channel and they recommended mesh over paper, so forgetting that your advice has always been gold, I go and order mesh tape online. Now I gotta make that 45 minute drive to home Depot.

Mesh is useful for Durock joints in thin set (under tile) but that’s kind of another application all together

Thank you so much for this video. I am more lost than a blind squirrel on a freeway. I used mesh tape around my breaker pannel and it took forever to dry. Ugh wish I'd seen this video sooner. Thanks again

Biggest problem I have experienced with paper is trying to get the mud to bleed through. You end up with air pockets unless you know exactly what you are doing. Mesh tape is so easy to use, the mud just bleeds through regardless of the consistency of your mud.. By the way, just fold the first couple of inches of your mesh tape in half then run your fingers down the length....corner problem solved.

i appreciate your video's - not sure how long you been a finisher for - myself 35 years either or is fine yet time is money and less work makes more money/cost a bit more BUT saves a coat - mesh on flats with quick set 45 or 90 , paper on butts set then flatten quick set, beed quick set, corners paper 1st coast heavy mud then finish coat everything 1 time with lighter weight compound. Never had problem with flats ever cracking and only ever a butt or two because of new construction sub zero hot/cold fluctuation from contractors hot cold variation while new building finding its place in the world of stability. If doing yourself and inexperienced i would stick to paper much easier to fix / start over if ya have to Just my opinion - not that its worth much everyone seems to have one LOL

Mesh is good to use on clinched on corner bead it helps to prevent cracks if the corner gets bumped into

Very well done in all ways. Thank you. I'll be sure to look for you for future projects...there is that deck coming up...

Extremely clear explanation -- thanks!

The only time I have ever seen issues with mesh tape is when it was installed with air dry mud. If you mix up setting type joint compound, such as Easy Sand, it works fine in all use cases.

Mesh tape works great for repairs. It lays flatter then tape. Which means less mud to cover it. They also make mesh tape that's extra strong they add x in the mesh. But paper is almost exclusively used in production. Most drywall in my area is supposed to be warrantied for 2 years minimum. I've never had a call back after leaving a happy customer. Their are different mud's for different applications. Use the proper mud and you'll have better results.

Best video on this debate I have come across to date. Well done.