Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. They are very informative. You show a lot of details other videos leave out which is very helpful for us beginners.
This is a great video, very informative, and the little bit of text said talc powder. I have a broken cast iron car bonnet deco that I want to remake in aluminium, but had very little idea as to how I should do it. I can see now that I need to be a friend of someone like you who lives nearby. LOL.
A core is used when the middle of the casting needs to be hollow or has a cavity of some kind. In his video one is used to make the cylindrical objec into tube shape. Without the core it would be a solid cylinder. it is supported at the ends only and the metal flows around it.
@carpetmonk The core is made from sand and other ingredients and baked in a oven to make it solid. See my videos on core making. In this casting the reduced diameter at the ends of the mould leave "core prints" in the mould. The core is made longer than the pattern and the core rests in the core prints and is held in place when the top flask is fiited.
There are 2 location points added to the ends of the pattern known as core prints. These leave a void in the sand to support the core in the correct location.
As my engine will run on butane gas the tank does not need to hold fuel so I have cast the ends seperatly to make it easier. The pattern has "core prints" added to the requred shape and this leaves a shape in the sand to support the core.
@20RoyalSuperKingt I am pleased with the finish from my sand, no need to coat the mould withanything .The talc used for parting does not come in contact with the metal so its not a problem.
@myfordboy thanks, i continured the series and came across the 'sharp sand' vid.. watching on this screen its hard to see. fascinating. the word here is precision i suppose. thanks, your videos are great, thatnks for letting us see your project. most videos, never show the good parts.
Just wondering if you have tried using the talc to coat the external parts of the cast for a smooth finish too? I stumbled across your vids and your giving me new ideas for yet another hobby. I like the lack of talking. everything I ever learned was just by watching an expert. Thanks matey.
Nice idea but...The item are more complex than simple shapes. Every item is different,there has to be tapers on all surfaces so the pattern can be removed from the sand.
@myfordboy Very interesting, an old Art/Science but brilliant too IMHO. What interests me is how the core will stay in place when you cast the block, (or cylinder) around it.I'll go watch the cantileved core video. Thanks
@Hallaran In this casting the reduced diameter at the ends of the mould leave "core prints" in the mould. The core is made longer than the pattern and the core rests in the core prints and is held in place when the top flask is fiited. Other ways can be used depending on the pattern. Check out my video featuring the cantileved core.
Just wondering if you have tried using the talc to coat the external parts of the cast for a smooth finish too? I stumbled across your vids and your giving me new ideas for yet another hobby. I like the lack of talking. everything I ever learned was just by watching an expert. Thanks matey. I just thought, Talc if i remember correctly is a hydrated gypsum/lime maybe. If so releases it'swater when heated, just like plasterboard would. So maybe it causes some kind of steamy skin when your casting.
how you know if the core is centered and it is not biased to the botton of the mold? I mean, the upper surface of the object will be thicker than the one of the botton ...??
Hi, what type of sand is that. Do you not need to line your crucible with refractory?I thought that steel will contaminate ally? Thanks for good instructional films.
Thanks for exelent videos! You have clearly long experience in metal casting. I wonder on one thing, how do you manage to suport the core in the middle of the mould? I can't see anything suporting it?
Hello, I am toying with doing some casting. I have a need to make some obsolete small parts. Great stuff here! I have a question: How do you keep the core centered inside the mold? Is it done with spacers or tabs? Thanks much, Jack
My bad. I thought the tank should have ends also. I posted my above question before I saw the end of the film. I suppose it is necessary with some "holes" in the casted piece for the suporting bars for the core?
@algae1000 The letters were cut out of plasticard and stuck on. For a detailed explaination about the core centering please visit myfordboy.blogspot.com and look at the metal casting tips.
Great video! It wasn't clear to me how you suspended the core within the center so that you ended up with uniform wall thickness. Did you carve the lettering on the outside of the pattern? Very helpful video. Thank you!
Foil does not contain much metal and will produce a lot of dross. Drink cans would be better but still not ideal. See my video on metal suitable for casting.
Yes, of course ;) but I was thinking about something, why you don't keep some mould parts (like cylinders, cubes, sphere) of different size and assemble them to make the mould for one piece ? That would take less time no? or most pieces u make need a lot of details maybe?
I don't see anyone on RU-vid discussing a solid pattern, which can't be cut in half. Do you pound it into the drag, or try and build a bottom board with matching indentations or what???
Sorry, I'm Italian and I do not speak English very well I wanted to know if it would be useful to coat the entire model of talc to facilitate the extraction froma moulding sand
so in short you need to make a wooden model of what you are going to make and another model to make it... that must take a lot of time to make the wood one
i am a little lost.. how does the core (i am imagining its the same 'flaky' black clay, covered head to toe in thick talcum?) not stick to either half of the mold? does it naturally 'float' to the center? wouldnt parts be more thin in places than others.. i would imagine this making weak parts.... ITS DRIVING ME BONKERS!! help!!
Hey there, you have great videos, very informative and fun to watch. I have a few questions 1. Do you use actual parts you want to cast or do you use wooden models? also how do you make wooden models? 2. Would it be possible to cast lets say flywheel for model steam or sterling engine using actual part and not model? 3. I noticed you always leave some kind of a tube in the mould after removing the models, what does that tube do? 4. Can copper or iron be poured inside the green sand mould? TY.
1. I make the wooden paterns for the item I want to make. There is no ready made part available. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--sQCJ6rv54s.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--efoM5-M7Ng.html 2. You may be able to use an actual part if it has sufficient draft and can be removed from the sand but it will come out smaller as the metal shrinks as it cools. 3. No tube is left in the mould. Tubes are just use to form the riser and feeder. 4. You can pour any metal into greensand.
do you have a video about investment casting for steel? I would like to make a permanent mold to do some small and detailed parts, and I don't want to have to re-do the sand every time I cast.
Do you attribute the porosity in the non-talc casting to lack of talc? Likely not, but had to ask - too much magic and Tommyknockers involved to trust logic, LOL.
@@myfordboy well I've got a old classic race boat that I can't find propellers for I have the original ones as a pattern need someone to copy them regards mark
Plaster would crack with the heat and the pattern would not be easy to remove. There is also the risk of explosion if the plaster is not completely dry.
Hello, can anybody here help me please. I’m trying to cast a bracket that i first made in mdf. The cast/result turns out very good, except for a dent/pocket near the sprue. I’m tried a sprue with a double channel, an extra riser, higher temperature (830 C), everytime same problem.. Any advise would be very much appreciated. 😉
@@myfordboy Thanks for the advice, I’ll try a wider feeder. What pouring temperature is best? I,ve refurbished an oven and added a controller so I have options..
chitta prakesh In the video I used this method ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1O1M1kaZlFg.html I now use a different method shown here. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1HuxDVpy_iU.html
myfordboy WOW! Fast response and good info, thanks a bundle! I'm looking at building my own cupola furnace and so far the books I purchased do not go into sand mold making at all.
Jesus H. Christ,... would it kill you to explain what it is you are doing AS you are doing it??? Like what kind of dirt is that, what relest powder you are using,... give a play by play as you go!!! I'm pretty sure RU-vid doesn't charge for words.... *_*
