@@borivojetravica569 I was also thinking that. I've seen it in a couple of previous videos & wondered what / how internal wall thickness is controlled?
I just notices grooves routed on the inside of the cope and drag to help hold the sand in place as you move them and turn them upside down and stuff. Excellent! FYI you make it look easy.
Remebering my youth and finding ignorance is bliss.... i used to cast aluminium using the lost wax process... no degossing flux, no sodium carbonate... (I did know to use a coathanger to get the paint off the molten aluminium from the cans I used) made some cool things .... and didn't die or become maimed so that is a plus.
Please cast a engine block of some kind !!!!!!!! Can it be done at home !!!!!!????? If you have the right equipment. Im a mechanic in oz want to cast a engine block since you can't get older model vehicle engine blocks from the manufacturer . Would make a great video fir youtube to 👍👍👍
Hello! Man that printer is the whip! I goof around around casting in my shop and build custom one off gas caps for fancy vehicles. I and make the patterns out of wood by hand and after watching you make that foam pattern I may have to consider a printer! Thanks for sharing your talent fordboy you make it all look easy !
Also check this video of Mr myfordboy.. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HVgPM1ojyLw.html 3D printers are gona be as much part of a foundry as the furnace.
@@myharris I have had a lot of stuff From Banggood including several printers in large parcels. Only once did I have to pay custom duty. In theory it's due on purchases of £15.00 but the parcels come through OK. I think it depends on which carrier they use. The one I paid for came by TNT. Others came by Parcelforce and regular mail.
@@myfordboy Only half of the space was used for the actual mold and the other half of the space was filled by the "sand plug" that rested on the walls of that half of the space, so that part held the plug centered if I saw right. That at the same time centered the plug and it protruded into the actual mold to create the space when it was removed, right?
Continue to always enjoy your casting and machining videos in particular. Now with the pattern made from the 3d printer and seeing the whole process - just excellent. Always admire your work myfordboy and thank you.
Thank you for sharing your high skill with the world. I am sure that you have helped many people to master the craft of the caster. You are a very good teacher! Thanks you.
These videos are just so good, thank you. You have this down to a science...cad to pattern to mold to machining. No time or cost wasted on anything that doesn't add value to the part. Links to all the hard to find stuff and you're answering everybody's questions. I've seen old videos on how they made the big V-12's, Alison and Merlin's. All the different cores that they used. Completely confident you could just build one of the damn things by yourself if you had the time and the giant furnaces.
Could you do a video where you cast two identical parts, one using the degassing step and one without? I would love to see the impact on the final product.
He actually has an earlier video where he doesn't degas the metal, I don't recall the reason. Perhaps expediency. The part did not turn out so he had to start again. It resulted in voids in the casting.
like WillieRants said, it will result in a lot of usually small voids. sort of looks like negative bubbles... or like the part had very been badly rusted then cleaned.
@@myfordboy Thanks! follow up question, I never thought about it previously, but are most 'alloy' wheels about the mix of material? Or do you source the same brand /type of wheels to keep the castings consistent? Thanks again!
I've looked over most of your projects. ..a very capable lad, you are. Me thinks it time you build something truly useful. How about a half scale Vickers MG?
If you want a great free program, use Fusion 360. If your a student or hobbyist you can get it for free. Been learning it and yesterday exported my first Cad file for my CNC. It is also able to export to 3D printer.
Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists and small businesses, and is far better than most of the cheap low end CAD programs that people used to be using before it came along.
Thanks for all the tips! Sharing my two cents for protecting my own "Fashion Gear" against dirt and water and to keep them supple: Melt 55% (of weight) of beeswax, add 45% ATF. Let cool and rub the pink "soap bar" onto the suede - use sunshine or hairdryer to melt it, then massage it in. Not my recipe - just reading and deciphering the MSDS: "Skidmore’s products are made using the finest ingredients nature can provide, derived from trees, plants, and insects." Ah yes... -They forgot to mension fossils. DIY the stuff instead of wasting 11 USD for 6 oz... Keep up the good work! Regards from DIYSwede
Looking very dapper there with your new safety apparel, tell us has the missus been watching some of your early shows per chance? I know that I am pulling your leg but it’s better to be prepared for any eventuality...👍👍
I couldn't find anywhere that this had already been asked. What do you do to compensate for material shrinkage? Do you slightly enlarge your STL files before slicing and exporting the g-code?
Sorry for the dumb question.....Is the small hole the vent, or just a blemish in the sand? Why do you sometimes use a tall vent tube (similar to the fill) and in this case not? Thank you.
Not dumb. The small hole is to vent the core as it could give off gasses and push the metal away from the mould. The second tube I use is generally to feed metal into the mould as the metal shrinks as it cools. Not needed on small castings.
This video is an older one, but it occurs to me that instead of cutting the ingate, would it not be simpler to add one to the 3D model, and print it as an integral part? Seems like it would be cleaner and save a step. Thank you for all the effort put into your channel.
Hi fordboy, I'm newby in foundry. I have some questions, hope you can help ;) 1. Do you oversize the part in the 3d cad? If you have 40mm as diameter in real part, do you set 40.4 mm for casting? 2. How large is the diameter of the casting channel (the vertical pipe)? 3. How much time do you wait to open the casting? Do you keep the foundry's flame on or do you shut off (I wonder if you have a faulty casting, you cast again immediately or later days). Thanks, Teo
You can either increase the CAD model by 2% or keep the model full size and print it out at 102% The internal dimension of my furnace are 11.25" dia and 11.25" tall. I can send a plan of this to you if you give me an email. An aluminium mould can be opened in about 10- 15 min. I leave the furnace burning when removing the crucible but i may turn down the flame. You can reuse any faulty castings whenever you like.
I found out from a professional recycler that you never want to add any kind of foil to your aluminum. Its not aluminum and its full of other metals and alloys that will cause your aluminum to be contaminated and have cracks.
@@myfordboy Its what he told me, and he melts all of the aluminum in the county from the recycling trucks. he said its also like the very worst thing for the environment for you to melt and then be around. They add all sorts of toxic stuff to it to make it roll out without tearing. He said throw it away and don't bother melting it if you care about your health.
Hi David. What does it do? I have been doing a bit of patternmaking myself for a bloke in the Midlands who sells 3 inch scale traction engine kits. Do you add the 2% shrinkage/machining allowance at the slicing stage or as you are deawing it? I like your snazzy outfit...
The 2% can be added either at the slicer or CAD drawing.I've done it both ways. The part carries a lever that operates a hydraulic valve. Valve is fitted above the flange and the lever operates it.
I am perplexed why a slug with a center was just stuffed with some material into the casting before the base was machined. Nice results, just like factory, probably better.
Yet again a fascinating video with a superb end result. One question, how does the core remain exactly central iot guarantee wall thickness? It appeared that you simply placed it in the open mould & that was it? Surely the core must be in direct contact with part of the external surface?
Under what circumstances do you NOT use a riser, such as in this video? Also, I think that your use of 3D and sand casting is inspirational in that it illustrates a practical use for 3D.
Great video with the whole process clearly shown from stem to stern. Except, I was a little unclear, how did the core get placed suspended in the center of the mold such that it didn't touch the sides (thus causing avoid in the casting)? Thanks.
What does that part do? It looks like an automotive thermostat housing with a stick shift. I know it is for a bore hole drilling rig, but I can not figure out it’s function. Thanks, Chris
Please look here for a detailed description of how cores are located. myfordboy.blogspot.com/p/metal-casting-tips-and-faq.htm and this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sIBQWh-1eYk.html
Please look here for a detailed description of how cores are located. myfordboy.blogspot.com/p/metal-casting-tips-and-faq.htm and this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sIBQWh-1eYk.html
Cheaper and quicker this way. Lost PLA would need 2 prints a lot of refractory and long burn out. One pattern for greensand can make as many parts as I like.
