Enjoyed seeing Mary Ann and hope Ginger is doing well too. They do grow up too quick. But it is nice for them to want to share their affection. I have 4 rescues and they are all very affectionate and a lot of company. When I set down to eat or watch TV all 4 of them are either on my lap or next to my legs.
When working on vintage equipment it’s mandatory to be able to make your own parts. I’m involved with an organization the runs and maintains a standard gauge, Mikado 2-8-2 Steam Locomotive that was built in New Orleans. SPX-745 was built in the Southern Pacific’s Algiers Shops in 1921. There are several videos of her out running on the main lines of several class one railroads. During one of her annual inspections, around 2010, one of the check valves used for injecting water into the boiler had to be removed for some repairs. After removing the valve our Chief Mechanical Officer ( CMO ) was not pleased with the 4 studs that held it on the boiler. A lot of corrosion and wear on the outer threads. He believed they were the original threads from 1922 when she had a boiler explosion and had to get a new boiler. We tried to remove them using several ways but they would twist but not break free. Penetrating oil, heat, long cheaters on a 3 foot long pipe wrench could not break the old threads. So we ask several machine shops in the New Orleans area to bid on removing the old studs and making new ones. Several shops come out to look at the job, but only one shop bid on removing, but not making the new studs. The end that went into the boiler has tapered threads, and none of the shops wanted to make them. The only bid was $2,500 to remove them if they did not have to drill them out. So we decided to drill them out our selves. Our CMO had a lathe with a tapering attachment, but had never cut tapered threads. After cutting the outer shank and threads off we drilled the old studs out saving as much of the old threads as possible. It did take a couple Saturdays of working on them to get all 4 of them out. I probably had 8 to 10 hours of drilling myself. We borrowed a set of brand new tapered taps from another steam locomotive operation. Our CMO tapped the old threads until he had 100% new threads. This resulted in 4 different sizes for the new tapered threads and we needed two different sizes of round stock, 3/4 and 7/8 of an inch to make them. He used the tapered taps as a pattern and all the outside threads and shanks were the same, 3/4 X ???. One of our members got a retired machinist friend, that he worked with at a refinery, to give us a hand. It took us all day to make the first one. A big learning curve for us. I mainly watched and went to pick up the poor-boys, ( a 9 inch long sandwich made with French bread ). Our CMO made the other three the next morning. The whole cost to us was $150. The round stock cost $100 and the 7 shrimp and oyster poor-boys cost us $50. Now I did not count the cost of the 3 wives going shopping after they served our lunch or the potato salad my wife made. All 4 of us guys learned a lot that day, but you know, it was fun and worth every minute of our time. Our three wives had a great time too.
Hi Keith. My husband watches you every nite.As his wife I am trying to learn. I really Love how you seem to love animals. I am a major animal lover. So I really enjoy that. Jody Grove
Love the cat Keith! Some mean screw cutting as well - I always run the machine slower than you do when I'm producing threads - your reactions for withdrawing the tool at the end of the thread are really quick - very impressive.
Old Keith: "We're gonna take this slow, we'll go 30 or 40 thou each pass..." New Keith: "We're gonna take a 100 thou on the first pass... 80 on the second pass..."
I'm thinking that this is one of those "for want of a nail the kingdom was lost" things. Somebody probably stripped or lost those screws and couldn't get any more since the machine was old and heading for obsolescence, so they tried running it without the screws. The lack of screws caused the gib key to be unsupported and to break, which caused the clapper box to get sideways and broke those gears. At that point, there probably weren't any parts available, so the machine got put out to pasture. Its a good lesson in taking care of screws. I've got a wood plane of about the same era that I'm working on at the moment. I went looking for information on it, and the article I found was written by some guy named Keith Rucker... :) It has a similar plane, which was already boogered up when I got it, and rusted and stuck. I tried my very best to get it out without doing more damage. I soaked it with penetrating oil and gave it time, but with the slot already boogered up, I had to resort to vise grips. I used Keith Appleton's trick of wrapping flashing around it to protect it from the vise grips, but it eventually slipped and the head did get a bit boogered up on the sides. Not so badly I can't use it, but it looks ugly. You can't exactly pick up a cast iron screw for a Ohio Tool Works number 29 at Lowes... sigh.. I'm wondering if a good hot forge, an anvil and a rivet bucking block might be used to reshape that head. That kitten is adorable, and she clearly thinks you hung the moon, or saved her life.
I think you should mount the motor on the ceiling above the planer because the belt shifting mechanism for the forward and reverse movement of the table will not work properly with a short belt. It will work best with the belt as long as possible so the belt stays as straight as possible when it is shifted to the other pulley. And this way the planer keeps its original look without any mounting holes and mounting fixtures for the electric motor.
A carpenter says measure twice and cut once and an electronics engineer might say check your components are the right way round twice and solder once! The metal machine engineer would invent, plan and think twice and chip once. Mary Ann is so cute twice over and a hundred cuddles!
I was comparing your two screws and noticed the orig was cut with a threading profile - flat bottom V. Yours was flat sides. Might be part of the screw machine that it used what it had and not adding a unique cutter. Interesting. Nice project.
I can tell you in my sixty years of machining I've never seen a side cutter run perfectly true. The problem is tolerance stack-up. Machine spindle has slight runout, arbor has a little, the cutter fits on arbor with a couple thousands and finally the cutter itself has some tolerance so is not perfect. Usually a little runout does not harm whatsoever and we just learn to live with it.
@@ellieprice3396 Makes sense, except that if it were only due to tolerance stack up, occasionally, the runout variations would defeat each other and the cutter runout would seem near perfect, but it never seems to happen
Thanks for sharing!!! Make sure the trip dogs are set and tightened the last thing you want is the table slid off the machine. Now is the time step back and check everything. Great great work.
That's one sticky shop cat...has Velcro on her paws! It's such a shame that you never feed or pet her. We all see that she's just completely neglected! LOL!
Thank you for the update; it’s great seeing that planer get closer to working. I recently heard it was best to use slitting saws at full depth to use more of the teeth and avoid dulling the ones affected by runout. But that was on a horizontal machine; would the vertical mill not be up to such a heavy cut?
I thought about that too, but then I figured he might have been worried about the rigidity of the setup. I mean he even called out that the saw is noticeably off-center.
Hi, thanks for another great video. on the electric drive, it may be worth adding some form of flywheel arrangement that will minimise the motor size as I imagine the load could be peaky. Cheers.
Keith, a thought about power for the planer. Keith Fenner has an old Sibley drill press that originally ran off a line shaft. Maybe, you can use some of that machine's current power train on the planer.
Keith- this restoration has been super fun to watch, so please don't take this question to be anything other than a newbie with genuine curiosity: Practically every moving surface on this machine has been scraped in, and I assume you've oiled it all. So why does it seem like all the controls take so much effort to move them? Are the gibs just too tight? It seems like you really have to put a lot of force into turning the dials; I would have thought with perfectly parallel scraped surfaces that movement would be near effortless. Thanks for helping me understand!
I had to stop the video 1 min in to congratulate you on mentioning that you did not forget about the two New modern bolt holding the clapper box on. LOL I was already #&*%@ at the screen. LOL. One more small criticism. You made a new screw with nice deep parallel slot. then you stick a tapered screwdriver in the slot . Which can mushroom's the screwhead like the others are butchered .
On Chinese mills and laths, that don't have a tapered gib, there are always nuts on gib adjustment screws so you can tighten them. How come they are not needed here? I would assume that those screws would eventually loosen up.
The mechanism is Keith opening the half-nut with one hand and backing out the cross-slide with the other. The timing of both events just before crashing into the bolt head is set with talent, skill, and practice.
I said add locknuts on a previous video on this machine. Odd that it ain't got them - and I did say that such a mod was an 'allowed' mod - as is adding a motor mounted on it. Very happy by folks keeping old stuff running but updates are allowed - so Keith, go mad and add a DRO to it ;)
What a boss! How does Keith disengage the half but and back out the carriage at the same time at the same spot each time? Is this some kind of fancy feature of a big boy lathe?
I would have liked to know how you centered the slitting saw on the screw head. It looks like it was very accurate, so I presume you used the DRO to find the middle, but I don't know how you do that with the saw blade. If you ever get a chance I would love to see how you do that. Thanks for the video. Very informative as always.
One way of centering the saw is to carefully lower it until it just barely scratches the top of the bolt. Then you lower it down half the thickness of the bolt plus half of the thickness of the saw. That should get you close enough to center for anything except the most extreme tolerances.
1:39 - don't want to wear the thread out in the casting.....2 issues with that..... 1. ISTR those threads are now helicoiled - so are replaceable in any case, 2. You have to remove the stud or bolt in any case to get the full swivel travel - which is the whole point of there being 2 screws clamping - so one can be removed and it still be clamped !
MKE Gadgets, in an ideal world yes .Now if some kind soul bought Keith one of those fancy new 6 jaw chucks as a suprise Christmas pressie , he wouldn't have this slight wobble /run out on a job like this . A hole and thread of this size being a little bit out will not cause any problems . I bet some of the original fasteners were probably just as wonky.
That raw hex block was probably not perfectly square. Maybe if he had marked which way it was in the chuck when he drilled the hole it would have been better for the second op. He said he wanted to do part it off first so he could do a full-through tap. But the tap will just follow the existing hole, so no real problem.
While you were tapping that nut, the tap was visibly moving up and down, so it's obviously not centered. Now, I realize that being centered wasn't critical here, so no big deal, but I have the question. Was the nut not centered in the chuck, or is the tail not centered to the chuck?
probably is every thing in line, but the work was an extruded hex, not the most precise thing in the world and was chucked in a three jaws chuck, probably a sharpie mark before parting off can help but isn't a security
@@tacitus101010 I speculate this was because the workpiece was removed and reinserted in the chuck. If Keith was unlucky enough to reinsert the hex piece 180 deg out of phase, that will yield double the runout of the chuck for the workpiece bore!
I assume preservation is a key goal here, so I hope your motor mount clamps to the mschine, with no new holes drilled, your wonderful work means somebody will be looking after the planer in the 22nd century, it would be a shame to have them puzzling over what the motor holes were for, thinking them to be origional.
