Ive been researching this for months and can't get a solid answer. 2x6 fiberglass, conditioned attic, in NV zone5, (-10f with snow to 115f), high wind application. I want to install a metal roof with an air gap. my only question is, is it safe to install peel and stick (zero perm) onto entire roof deck? Im concerned that interior moisture could start adding up in the fiberglass. I like peel and stick for the benefit of sealing around penetrations.
How well does Sharkskin Ultra SA stick to Advantech decking? If you’re unfamiliar, Advantech use PU glue and has a waxy finish that’s great for dealing w/intermittent thunderstorms we get in Summer here in Rockies w/o delaminating but peel & stick ice shields struggle to stick to it. Our experience is primarily w/Grace & Owens-Corning products. Thanks
Q Question. I installed a metal roof over quarter inch fanfold about 10 years ago when the house was a rental. At the time I thought fanfold was a good idea because I had to do a quick and dirty roof job over a few weekends and the fanfold would keep out the rain until I could finish the work a few weekends later. This rental house was out of town from where I lived full time. Now, about 10 years later I’m living in this house and notice some of the nail heads have popped off and I have at least one leak that I am aware of. I figure the popped nail heads are from walking on the roof, and the soft foamy stuff underneath does not support the metal enough to keep it from flexing, and this movement is causing the screws to loosen up or break. What do you think? I’m thinking about removing the metal roof and fanfold and putting down felt instead of the fanfold. The surface underneath is just bare OSB. But I would rather just replace the screws and patch the few spots where the screw heads have broken off. If I stay off the roof in the future, is this a good option?
You said to use cap nails to install synthetic but cap nails can show indentions when the meatal is installed unless you use 1×4's ect. When going flat I use roofing nails.
I live in Florida and will be installing a metal standing seam roof in a few weeks. Is GAF Stormguard underlayment a suitable water barrier? If not what do you recommend? Thanks
I just want to know about sound which one's going to dampen the sound the most? I think I'm going to try both and use my water hose and Rainbow the water High ark hitting into the roof... My money is on felt Paper 30... If I can find the video again i post my results
I live in ga, this is for a metal roof. We don't have any ice or snow, do I need an ice and water shield or peal and stick or can I go with just a synthetic mechanically attached underlayment? Also it's my understanding because I am using metal I need a high temp underlayment. By the way I am using purlin strips for air gap, I at one point read that if ur using a peal and stick you don't need purlins or strips for air gap.. Not so sure about that Im doing it my self and have everything else figured out but I am sorta lost when it comes to which underlayment to buy. I've heard of people doing two layers ect. All kinda confusing
There are lots of factors that will go into choosing the right underlayment for your assembly. The easiest way to figure that out would be to talk to our technical department. You can find their contact info here: www.sheffieldmetals.com/Resources/Technical-Department Hope that helps, and good luck with your project! -Thad
New rica in. I have told to use either 1x4 slats. But then was told to use 2x4’s Also do you still have to use spray foam insulation to stop condensation if you use felt paper
What about in a building already constructed that has a metal roof? I am enclosing a 30'x40' workshop to store my Prevost. Nothing is insulated including the underside of the metal roof. What is recommended?
Perfect timing, Shane! We are releasing a video tomorrow with Matt Risinger about that exact topic. We are all about using a radiant barrier to help reduce transferred heat. Stay tuned here on the channel for that video, and thanks for the comment! -Thad
Good question! Here are some things to consider with the Zip System: I would suggest using an underlayment no matter what. Zip products need to be taped and rolled at the seams correctly, seams need to be spaced properly, and all over-driven nails need to be sealed. There is a chance some areas might be missed, so using a quality peel & stick like Sharkskin Ultra SA as a secondary defense is a good practice. -Thad
Hate to say it but in the building industry warranties aren't worth the paper they are written on. In the real world the manufacturers have a myriad of loopholes such as 'pro rating' and 'lawyerise' to avoid paying any claims. Unless you get a large class action lawsuit behind you you stand only a miniscule chance of any meaningful collection on a warranty. Ergo, buying and paying more for a warranty is meaningless. It is much better to examine what actually works in your area by viewing repairs to failed homes. It is a maxim that it is always better to talk to someone from the real world rather than a salesman for obvious reasons. Likewise architects are famous for their expensive failings and lack of knowledge in what works and what doesn't. Making it highly dubious that they are worth their cost. To wit: in my area they continuously design flat roofs which never work beyond a three or four year period if that. When they fail they disclaim any liability or responsibility.
Hey Gary! Yes there is a Sharksin radiant barrier product. We took a look at it when we roofed Matt Risinger's house: bit.ly/Matt-Risinger-roofing-video Hope that helps! -Thad
Benjamin, yes that's a clip of completing flashing installation using a small roll of peel & stick. You can see the full sheet of Sharkskin Ultra SA above the eave trim. Hope that clarifies! -Thad
I would like to know this as well. In India, that is how all metal roofs are installed. The concept of using a substrate has not reached our shores yet.
Hello! Absolutely. In fact, we did a video with Matt Risinger (in Austin, Texas) where we talk about Sharkskin at length. Check it out here: bit.ly/Matt-Risinger-roofing-video -Thad
SA all the way ! Anything else as far as cost savings is a false sense of security. Think of the SA as the "roof" and your metal as the armor that protects it.
The lady in the video is TOTALLY disinterested. Also, I'm not sure why the expert guest speaking failed to mention 40 # felt? It's been out almost as long as 30# felt. What was the warranty on the other two shark products?
