Metal Shaper Monday - How Not to Cut Keyways 

Thanks. I really like that you show what doesn’t work. That’s just as valuable as what does work

I suggest you raise the tool as high as you can in the clapper box. Locking the clapper is necessary. Your suggestion of an angle plat is spot on, get as much rigidity as you can. Great video, we all learn from the things that do not work, I wish I had seen this before I first tried a keyway on my shaper.

A old boss mine used to say it's all part growing up . It's great to work out your problems and set up with out the boss being up your arse to get the job out Yesterday . Kit from Down Under

That was good Dean ! When i do another video , i will try to show you my keyway bar . It fits in place of the tool holder & has the ram pushing directly behind it . The tool bit too the top . 👍👍👍

Cool machine. Learning is the fun part. Never stop Learning, it will shape more than metals. I think I got garage shop envy, thanks for sharing- Mike…. / sent on wife’s I pad.

This was great to watch and it does highlight using a test piece to work through the issues before needing to do this on a job

Hi, just subscribed, and i have cut keys on my shaper in exactly the same way, with exactly the same results! You get there in the end, but the process is not that good! Shorten the bar? Agreed, but also move the tool up in the toolpost till the ram pushes directly on the end of the round bar and round end of the bar bears on the toolpost washer. I have seen instances of removing the toolpost and replacing it with a boring bar type tool with a similar end but a larger clamping screw. The L shaped tool is too flexible unless you can put the thrust directly on the end of the round bar, and the round bar must be large enough and short enough to eliminate flex. If you put a nut and bolt through the gap under the part in the V of the vee block and clamped it up with washers bearing on the parts edge you would eliminate the tendency for the part to slide in the vee block but angle plate with hole is the way to go! Phil. UK

Dean, great video. I pickup a few larger tool holders a while back with the intentions of milling them to size as well. Thanks for sharing, have a great day.

Hi Dean, great learning experience (and not just for you!). Keep going mate, you are providing a valuable reference for others here..... especially me lol. Cheers, Jon

Very good video. Just like my first attempts on most shop stuff. Learned a lot and got ready for the next time. Well done!

Like others, trial & error will help us that own shapers. This will help me one day when mine is up running for sure. Bear

I'm learning with you! Great job....

I tried to yell and warn you that your first setup would not hold 😁.... but alas, too late ! Obviously, the machine-of-choice for any ID keyway, though . You'll get it with your improvements -- you're on track now . I really like your channel; so glad I subscribed ! Keep on keeping on !

My own shaper is in the same size range. And from my experiences and those of some others like yourself and Rustinox and so on that these little guys just can't push a 1/4 inch or wider cut. Things flex and squeal like you got and at some point when things have flexed too far the cutter finally tries to catch up with a HUGE depth of cut and it either makes it through with a huge "GRONKING" sound or it stalls or something snaps. All of the options being accompanied by nasty noises from the machine. Stefan G had a video on cutting keyways with his small shaper. I believe that he went with a 3 or 4mm wide cutter and after the first cut to depth he then moved it over and widened the two sides out as needed. It's this older one from 8 years ago. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-n60lHUD8US8.html There's likely a relationship between the width of the cut and the size of the stem. But from the number of squeal passes I'd say that 1/4 to that diameter shaft is just too flexible with too much push away force flexing things. Perhaps go for more like 1/8 to 5/32 width?

I had my work shoved to the end of the table twice last week. Learned my lesson. I hope. Still trying to figure out fixturing options for my ammco as there are no T slots. Only strait slots

When Thomas Edison was asked about the 1,000 attempts he made before successfully inventing the light bulb, "How did it feel to fail 1,000 times?" His response: "I didn’t fail 1,000 times. The light bulb was an invention with 1,000 steps." Every experiment is a success if you learn something from it!

Thanks Dean. Trial and error is what it is all about. 👍

Tough job to do. You will get it figured out.

Boss Kettering said "The problem will always tell you the solution. I agree with what Rustinox said. I think it would be interesting to experiment with different degrees of side rake on the tool bit also. Thanks Dean.

such a cute shaper you have😍😍

On my shaper iv gone to the keyway cutting on the top and have liked that better like you did, keeps the chips out of the way

It would be easier to use a 1/8th cutting tool, instead of a 1/4", the shaper is an unforgiving piece of equipment, when work holding, is lightly tightened down. Anyway Dean, a nice video.....

Enjoyed…..koko

Hi Dean, I have cut a few keyways on the shaper but I always find them difficult. Getting the key cut to the same depth all the way along is often a problem. Cheers

Great experiment how else can you know the answer. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

my key slotter replaces the lantern holder complete and is a straight 1 1/4 shaft with a threaded collar holding it tight to the clapper. zero flex.

I know it might be unspeakable from a metal shop standpoint, but wood under the top bar clamp or wood vise jaws seems to keep metal on metal from slipping. Depending on the tolerances needed of course.

To me it looked like you were also getting back lash in the top slide feed screw being taken up when the cutter dug in when you are down feeding.

Would it help to put the part on the table slot and the v block on top between the clamp? I always learn the most from mistakes!

can you rotate the vice 90 degrees and hold the job endways?

Not quite sure the clapper box is able to do it's job with the tool bit on top..

👋👋👋👋👋

Why are keyways so difficult? I reckon you're 90% there though.

I think the idea is to always cut against a 'fixed' jaw, so the job won't slip / slide out. This chap seems to have the knack of the job: (skip to 15:00) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LLmwkVyUyM0.html