Your a Good Guy Tim, lots of patience with hands on attitude, that’s willing to teach others at a slow pace so they understand. Love the Bible phases at the end too.
Before I bought my 1025r earlier this year, I spent a lot of time watching your videos, still spend a lot of time watching them. Thank you for being so informative. I love that you aren't crazy and dramatic with your videos. Refreshing that people can still make RU-vid videos without getting silly. Thanks for all you do sir!
I appreciate your comment. We need it. The 'crazy/dramatic' videos often get more views. We're trying to 'stay the course' with our informative yet entertaining approach.
Tim, can't thank you enough for all the maintenance videos you've made & posted here on RU-vid. They make life a little easier when it comes time to tackle the maintenance on my 1025r. You make the audio/video darn near perfect & I'm sure it isn't easy to do in those tight spaces. Thanks again & have a great day!
I did the 50 hr this past weekend. No backhoe makes the job easy with vice grips to hold the lower clamp open while removing the hose to get the screen out. Screen was surprisingly clean. Your videos where a big help.
pro tip.. when changing oil open the filler neck or whatever it is and put a shop vac on it.. turn it on and remove the plug.. not a drop will fall.. make sure its clean around the plug though because you are gonna be vacuuming a lot of air through that hole.. then get out from the bottom and turn off the vac.. now that trick also helps for over filling because you can remove the plug and not loose oil until you want... and if your pan starts to over fill you can stop the oil and never get a drop on your hands or floor.. works for anything you change oil on... just make sure no dirt gets sucked up in the drain plug hole... and anyone reading this thinking the vac will suck up the oil I can assure you it doesn't unless the engine is filled all the way to the filler tube...
On the hose with the clamps, why don't you use vise-grips to hold open the clamps? That way you reposition the clamps then release. Just a suggestion. Love your videos!!
I find that you are able to have a good variety of subject matter. I can imagine that the work you have to do to keep a channel interesting can become difficult at times. Great job!!
I came here for a completely different problem but stayed as I really enjoyed your explanation even though it has nothing to do with my hydraulic issue. Thanks
where looking into thinking of having a backhoe wich i was looking at the new M62tlb and M6-141 and M7-171 with the 14foot m62 tlb backhoe attachment wich 171hp be the biggest horse power of a backhoe tractor kubota has
Tim, my old 2305 has a 90 degree hose to the screen which is real difficult to remove and replace. 1025R looks much easier, thanks for showing your fluid change.
After watching your video a few times,I decided to remove the screen in my 1025R - Taking the compression clamps off the house was frustrating to say the least - It took me 3 hours of wiggling and giggling and swearing to get those two clamps off the hose - in the end I'm glad I removed the screen as is was pretty clogged up - also, I replaced the housing that holds the screen to the oil reservoir as it was cracked where the HEX bolt goes - must have hit a rock due to the low ground clearance of the 1025R - don't have nicely groomed pasture like your video shows - Thanks for all your videos - sure helps a retired Dr.maintain his toy -- RS ( Rockpyle27) An added note - to make removal of the screen a lot easier, is to remove the 14mm bolt that holds the upper upper part of the hose to the main part of the oil reservoir - this enables the whole assembly to move in ANY direction eliminating the need to remove the cowling over the PTO or the plate beneath - A shout out to the woman who is 87 for watching your video and does not even have a tractor ??
Tim I ran into the same issue you did with the 6 mm Allen head bolt except worse for my 50 hour oil change. I tried to loosen the bolt, even used a cheater bar no budge. Finally had to throw in the towel and hauled the 2018 1025 to the dealer. Took the dealer three guys one with a cheater bar, one with a pair of pliers and the last tech pushing the Allen head socket in to make sure it didn’t strip. There comment to me was why would JD want to basically weld this bolt in. It went on there hall of fame for bolts. Good news the 200 hour change should now be a snap in the future.
Good video Tim... yes I agree most maintenance issues are not all that complicated, just be patient and take your time while saving $$$ at the same time, plus getting to know your equipment better.
I did mine last weekend and like you have said, the clamps going back on the hose was the worst part. I left the backhoe on didn't help any but not that bad. Thanks for your how to videos.
That’s called “Farmer Tight” it’s similar to “Logger Tight” because god knows the bolt might work loose if it isn’t so tight it’s almost stripped. Hahahaha
Seeing you do the maintenance on your tractor reminds me that I need to work on both of mine and get the oil and hydraulic fluid changed on one tractor and checking the center lift bar on both of the tractors to make sure that they can be moved easily.
former Deere Service Manager. It seems loader work is what causes all the debree in the oil. With only 4 gallons of oil I would change it more often and always clean the screen . About 600 hours and pumps are usually on the way out.
I don't have a JD 1025R/1023E, but this was a good how to. Does the tractor only have one hydraulic filter? I know on the HST version of my tractor, they have one for the HST and one for the rest of the hydraulics. They both use the same oil. This is on a compact tractor, not a sub. Keep up the good work helping people with the maintenance of their JD.
funny story about those pliers.. we had a 1000 gallon water tank in the front yard at the shop that someone stole the pump off of.. they one next to it they tried to take the pump off of but the bolts were stuck.. the thieves left that exact same pair of kinpex pliers on the ground where the were trying to take the second pump.. absolutely love those pliars... only wish the ones we have didn't cost 500 bucks.. lol
You got me Tim. I bought the Knipex pliers. These are a classic example of German precision engineering. I won’t be letting people borrow them because I might have a difficult time getting them back.😀
Another fantastic video Tim. My 50hr mark is soon approaching on my new 2025R. I have watched all of your videos. I'm going to give it a try and do the service myself, Thanks to your vids. I'll let you know how it goes haha ;) Thank you again Sir. I know the manual is saying to do this in the first 100 hrs but/// Amen
Great video Tim ! Thank you for sharing !!! The screen and magnet looked good to me . If I remember correctly, your other tractor had as much or more at 50 hours than this one at 100 hours. You get that much from factory assembly and normal wear. On heavy equipment, I always went by " if the particles would stick your fingers they are too large but if you run them through your fingers and they don't stick you everything is ok ." Be safe and God bless you all !!!! Praise God for HIS MERCY !!! Thank you Christy for sharing Scripture with us !!!! Eddy
Sorry Tim ! My attention span is not great anymore ! I am 68 years old and live full time with my Dad . He has Dementia and Good Lord willing Dad will be 90 years young this weekend . God is great all the time !!!! Be safe and God bless you all !!!! Eddy
I really enjoy your videos and your family is adorable and don't worry about people leaving you rude comments most have no idea what they're talking about your great 😀
Another great video! Thanks again. I’ve had my 1025 about 6 months now and I frequently reference your videos. One question: what causes the metal shavings in the fluid that the screen catches?
Tim, Harbor Freight(and others I would assume) sells a hand actuated bucket pump for around $15. It can be a bit delicate since it has enough pressure capacity to part the draw straw/piston cylinder from the o-ring assembly which can be a pain in the butt to get back together since everything will be coated in hydro fluid or oil. But it makes loading oil into gear boxes and reservoirs a significantly cleaner and more user friendly experience.
My tractor hold 14 gallons also. My wife just pickup a 5 gallons oil pump from Harbour Freight today. My new seat is blocking my filler plug for funnel. So the pump with a nozzle will help.
I sent my 1025R to the dealer to do the 50 hour service and they did not change the hydraulic oil, so I sent it back to get it done. They do recommend changing the filter after the first 50 hours. Deere has been very unclear on this. The dealer says they have NEVER changed the hydraulic filter at 50 hours. I mainly sent it to the dealer because the unit is under warranty and I don't want problems if something happens. Also, that is a lot of oil to get rid of.
At 12:05 That's a great little strap wrench, maybe not for filters. I've got 2 of them. Toolbox and Kitchen. Great for removing caps and lids. (Yes, I'm over 60) The kitchen one stays in the kitchen for use on food containers and not dirty garage uses.
I have an oil filter socket wrench style cup that works on a 3/8 inch socket wrench. I wouldn't ever want to use anything else (such as your rubber strap wrench).
My strap wrench bails me out when my 10+ filter wrenches don’t work. It gets the stuck filters that were so tight they stripped the socket mount ones without crushing them, or driving a screwdriver through them.
Tim, when sliding hose clamps on a rubber hose, spray the hose with some sort of lubricant. makes the metal clamp slide with ease. no need to struggle with it and use a screw driver on the back end. Did you add oil to the filter seal?
I use an oil pan with a solid top. It has a drain cap. It needs to be clean to use in out fleet center boiler..replaced the clips with a SS hose clamp.
A flexible magnet for retrieving items works well to take a drain bolt out once its loose. Keeps your hands out of the oil, especially with hot engine oil.
Hey Tim have u ever had a draw bar on your three point hitch attachment so u could lift and lower it, just an idea for ya. Keep the great videos coming
I do not like draw bar on 3 point. There is a safety hazard. The 3 point hitch will 'pop up' with no way to control if the load becomes back heavy. ...say if a trailer is attached, and becomes heavy in the rear, the trailer will tip rearward. Anyway, not a fan.
Did my 50 hr hydraulic fluid change today had 60 hrs on it. I was concerned about the screen being in put in correctly. I watched your videos and you did not take a lot of time with that part the book said it had to be done a certain way but i had no problem getting it back together. I read the part about the screen being parallel as you put it back and making sure it was seated after I had put in a gallon of oil and debated draining it but did not. . I had no trouble with the manifold going back on so I think I will be ok I hope.
@@michaelmactavish1728 If you were able to do either a hydraulic or engine oil and filter change in 5 minutes I would call Guinness immediately as that would clearly be a world record. It takes longer than that to do an oil change on my push mower. :-)
If it's only $90-100 for the parts, seems to me to be good advice to not skip the 50 hr service. There's always 'leftovers' after something is assembled/run for the first time.
My grandpa was a machinist and a lot of times he would drill holes on end of oil plugs. Then he would use some sort of glue in the hole and press a magnet in there.. I usually either stick a magnet on the oil filter housing, sometimes on a oil pan or transmission housing, close to oil plug hole. But magnets are only good for steel, doesn't help with yellow metals like brass.
At least the filter is protected being up under the frame unlike my 2305 . Just had to go through this two weeks ago after putting a hole in the filter while brushoging.
I use an oil filter pliar's. They are the best thing for any filter I have ever used. I Don't use a strap wrench, metal band wrench, or filter cup or even a screwdriver anymore!
Tim, Excellent video! Please buy a Milwaukee M-18 Fuel High Torque impact wrench. It is truly a beast. I DID and my pneumatic impacts are no longer used. 😇 GOD BLESS 🙏😊
Best advice i can give to those who start to do thier own maintenance is pull the key and put it in a safe place that you would only put it there when working on your tractor when you know you will be diableing or imparing its full function such as oil change, change the belt ext. That way it cant be started when its at a potentialy bad time. You might realise you forgot oil......go to store to get some and somone starts to move the tractor and the oil had been drained. That wouldnt be good. Its a easy thing to do for safty and preventive measures especialy if your learning it all at once. Like for me i never was taught to pull the key when working on serviceing equipment.....now that most places you work al expect lockout tag out.......i often forget to pull the key out. Just dont think of it. About 2 years ago i seen a shop start a oilchange and the power went out so they couldnt fill the motor back up with oil cause the bulk tank was only set up with air pump and hose to transfer the oil and no power no air. So they moved on to other things to fix on the truck.......power came back and all was good many things got fixed and it was time to pull it out and park in in the yard and work on the next truck...........nope....didnt even back it out enough to clear the doors the motor locked up tight.if the key would of been out the operator would of thought for sure there was a reason.......and likly not have been able to move the vehicle
Tim, you should really get a box of disposable nitrile gloves when doing any kind of fluid changes. It makes a helluva difference come time for cleanup and the skin on your hands will appreciate it.
For what the equipment costs , I have made a habit of changing hydraulic filters @ 10 hours and then yearly after that. No hydraulic problems other than hoses in 30 years with equipment under 5K hours
Be careful doing this, esp hydraulics. The idea is you get more contaminants in the system just by opening up the system then you would by normal wear. I've Worked on hydraulics for a while and seen lots of manuals state this. I would go by the book, unless something abnormal happened, ie water, overheated
I see this video was published WAY out of sequence. You still had the plastic on your seat and the pallet racks had not been installed along the wall yet. 😁
Yep. Nor was the wall painted. We sometimes have out of order episodes, as they may not be important for a specific time. For example, "Farm Progress Show" episodes needed to be released soon after the show, or folks get confused. Something like this can be delayed. Given the amount of editing and other work that we do, Christy is usually swamped. We simply cannot get all of our videos published as quickly as we would like. It gets even worse this time of year because we are doing more projects in the rush before winter. ...on the positive side, we should have a few episodes queued up for winter time :-)
On my equipment with filters that are horizontal and hold oil in them I get the drain pan underneath and then poke the filter with a small punch and let the oil drain out of the hole for an hour or so. That way when you unscrew you don't get a big mess down the block or in your case the rear end.
If yow were not videoing, what would be total time start to finish on a job like this? The tiedowns, what about another receiver hitch bar with a clevis or D ring to run a chain through? Nice DIY video Tim
tim it's a law that any place who sells oil has to take back the used oil. here in new york our superstores wal mart sams auto zone all take clean used oil back to burn for heat a waste oil burner witch is free heat i know used oil burners are pricey about double the price of gas or oil and they do burn a lot more oil where i worked for 20 years they had a lot of heavy equipment and big trucks so they had plenty of oil to go around in our body shop witch was 200x 500 we had two 450,000 BTUs and they burned right around five gallons an hour being the 18 foot door was always going up to let in the next driver right up on the garbage trucks or over the road 18 wheelers but they also had 20 huge cat ethnal run engines to make electricity that got oil changes every 24 hours being the ethnal was dirty and they ran full rpm all day they had dry sumps where the oil was stored in a container next to motor and was pumped in and out as it ran just like gm corvette or NASCAR cars they known as dry sump engines
Hi Tim love your maintenance videos 👍🏻 I have a question for you did you do this at the 100 hour or 200 hour ? After watching your video i checked my manual and it said to change the oil at 200 hours ??? What’s your thoughts on this ?
I used to feel that way too and then over the years I've read about how spring type clamps actually provide more even pressure around the entire circumference of the hose. The screw type creates a pressure point where the screw mechanism is located. This can be especially risky on plastic fittings like modern radiators. So now I'm not so quick to replace factory clamps with screw-type.
@@lowercherty I have a personally experienced a screw camp come completely loose and was leaking my trans fluid from the radiator. the part was replaced with the improper clamp. BMW uses a one time use crimp clamp that NEVER comes loose. Who ever did the repair did do it right but using the wrong clamp and leaking everything out. had i not noticed it would have leaked everything out of the trans and bye bye to that car.
Tim, I am just now at 50 hours on my 1025R. Still watching the oils series, but I recall you discussing the serial number and tractor identification, where was that or is there a chart online to help me identify my tractor? I got it used and it is supposed to be a 2018 but I want to verify. Did the 2014 have a different maintenance schedule? Thanks!
Tip.....Don't wipe down the screen! What happens when you do those metal particles can damage the mesh and even clog it. What I do is hold the screen in a 5 gallon bucket and use high pressure air. Before you start to blow it clean place a rag over the bucket so you won't get oil all over you. When most of the oil is gone then you don't need the rag over the bucket and you can finish up spraying it clean.
I have a 2017 model and tried the trans service without rear wheel removal yesterday. I wont ever be doing that again.Much easier to just remove the wheel. What made it so aggravating was the almost impossible task of wrestling with those hose clamps.Never again.
What's your view on the "right to fix" fight some farmers are having with John Deere. Asking cause you have background in software and farming and I think it's interesting. I don't hBe a dog in the fight
In theory, right to repair seems important. In practicality, farmers do not want to be ‘hacking’ on their $400,000 tractors. They want them to work! They want the dealer to be able to quickly diagnose and repair when there is an issue. So far, on the family farm with the large equipment, we are seeing improved response times (many diagnostics done over the phone), more accurate diagnosis (less unnecessary parts purchased and replaced), etc. The electronics are making the farmer more efficient. If folks were tweaking the software, how would one diagnose issues? Is the software change to blame, or is it a real issue? So, I see both sides, and I’m not really concerned based on what we are seeing in the real world.
I think what you said makes sense. If John Deere wins, I wouldn't want to see that standard trickle down to simpler equipment or procedures is all I'm thinking. Thanks, I enjoy the show.
You have done another great job here. I just changed my hydraulic fluid and forgot to pull the screen out to check and clean. I guess I get to go through this process again.
On the oil, Most all auto parts stores will take used oil for recycling. I've never asked in Lebanon (I work in the business Park there), but the ones in Mooresville do, so I don't see why the ones in Lebanon wouldn't.
