Metal Stud Walling Made Easy ~ Knauf Performer 

This stuff flies up when you have the proper tools and know what your doing. As others have said, you wouldn't want it in your own house though.

It's horribly flimsy stuff and far less versatile than wood. A quick short term fix, and definitely not something I would want for myself. Which makes me think we probably shouldn't use in anyone else's home either, and instead reserve it for impermanent commercial-type cubicals etc.

@@Bertie_Ahernwhat you reccomand then?

You never carried framing lumber up three flights of stairs in August. Everything has its place ,many different thickness of metal framing ( gage).

@@Bertie_Ahern steel studs are actually more structural, don't rot, and are 1/3 of the weight as wood studs, and cost is a little more. But what do I know, i only do it for a living

I also agree!

Why tho

Same here any movement or deflection can makes it squeak like mad, countless times I've done floor repairs and stair repairs builder claims chippys not fitted properly but its the slightest of movement on the stairs or joist noggin ect that metal makes hell of a squeal sometimes.

@@dalemoore11 its ok they compensate for that,an use 15mm plasterboard 🙄😂😂

You guys obviously don't know how and where to use it 🙄.... and perfectly straight 👌 what more do you want!!!! ?

That's cos you either don't understand it, or have never seen it in use.

@@JackdiyGarden It’s great in my house, double skinned 12.5mm wallboard both sides gives excellent soundproofing and a 1 hr fire rating. Builders that have looked at mine don’t even know it’s metal.

Why?

Totally agree, no way are these flimsy metal studs as strong as good old 4x2

Metal is so much easier and way less messy.

​@@Garyck88you do know there are different gauges of metal studs depending on whether they bare load or not right?

Timber is great if you don’t live in a termite infested area

Except the timber warps like a bitch so your walls never end up flat or square. Awful stuff.

🤣🤪

What did they do wrong? I am still learning and it would be great to know what to be careful of. Thanks

Tell us what went wrong

The wall is not straight and the door when closed seats 1.5cm away from the doorstop on the side of the hinges. I certainly don’t blame it on the materials used

Total disagree

Funny that. After building a massive commercial space with this stuff, I thought the same. Then I did a job in a £400k flat and guess what - it was built with this crap, and mdf...

Aye but aleast its not warped like wood, all the merchants these days are selling warped shit. What would be an alternative to this and wood?

You double skin both sides in the house.

True that

Yep, except the door frames. But this guy has no clue.

It probably doesn't deflect a whole lot, but those metal studs have extremely low compressive strength. Only takes a little bit of deformation due to added weight from the ceiling for the plaster boards to start cracking. With wood studs, there's enough compressive strength for them to withstand a little bit of extra weight without deforming

Weight and speed, which means significant savings at commercial building scale.

Don't forget environmental friendly, no trees cuts and steel is recyclable, overall should be far more cheaper.

@@RenoTBG Trees are far cheaper to recycle than steel?

@@woutertron you can recycle steel almost indefinitely. How many times can recycle wood?

@@RenoTBG infinitely if you pulp it and turn it into compost

U.K. construction methods are slow to adapt new technology

Believe me as a chippy with 30yrs experience & built timber frames & built timber studs , Metal is probably twice as fast to erect if not quicker, Easier to work with doesn't shrink & twist , done properly it's far better than modern CLS timber, Yes I'd definitely have it in my own house

No, timber pattresses.

Why?

@@Wgnwtb Their upper management for now two years I have been requesting they supply a sample or point me in direction of Superfil 40. The contractor that installed my insulation contaminated the Knauf product mixing it water repellent. Long story one Knauf management are familiar. I require a clean sample of Superfil 40 a teaspoon to send to a materials testing laboratory. The knauf rep in Scotland is no help, and his managers of conversed several all just sit on their hands. Got to a stage be protesting outside their offices although majority them all work from home. Big problem is Knauf sold a product into a structural damp building and the product wasn’t suitable a report to international standards had already given reason cavity wall insulation shouldn’t been installed. Not entirely Knauf’s responsibility however, they been acting typical most big corporate companies when a problem does arrive try and ignore and go away. I ain’t going away Steve Morris, and the rest of them at Knauf. Give me the sample the evidence I require progress this legal dispute. Boycott Knauf.

Keep boycotting Knauf. Do not give a company money that doesn’t take responsibility for resolution of significant problems. Give me that Superfil 40 sample I will name every manager I have spoken to in the past two years.

It should have minimal 10mm deflection in head even in timber. Especially timber frame house unless it's designed as a load bearing wall

The timber supports the ceiling.

It's definitely not 👍🏼

@@dalemoore11 so what's the point of it unless you're looking for a weak and lightweight stud wall?

Why is used commercially then in large projects?

@@MrThebigredone it's faster, straighter and has a better fire rating than timber walls. Also almost no waste from the framing, unlike timber cuts.

@@w.o.o.d.y Exactly

I could not find one in any tool store. I wanted to show it.

@Skill Builder having trouble posting a link for some reason but screwfix sell them for 30 quid but I can give u the item no (6724V)

No one uses crimping tools in the uk anymore, tec-screws if you really feel that desperate to fix the stud.

@@mdipltd7404 do u just use the screw for the plasterboard to fix the stud?

@@Droningonuk In general, unless it has a special use (doors, windows, corners) or is metsec.

He said if you need a deflection head, you don't always need one. Just about every commercial building is built with a deflection head, not so much residential.

@@michaeloates5804 Yes, if the commercial building had a steel frame and roof, it would need a deflection head at the top of thecwall.

You need deflection heads to roof ceilings due to snow and you never fix to the top track when doing so 🤣, the rest is just BS. Yes I've had papers published in the White Book.

@@robertsmart7484 This is about right, but the deflection heads can vary.

A drywall screw gun, mate 😊

It's not time consuming it's really fast, Roger was doing a talk through demonstration as well as fixing the metal

Seems like a kind of lame structure though.

@ULMarc every school, hospital,office block, etc in fact just about every commercial building built in the recent times is built like this

@@michaeloates5804 I feel sorry for them.

I take it your insulation is all external as standard? Metal acts as one hell of a cold bridge.

4 ft thick cob walls. So yes. But I will say that it’s the primary method of building walls in France.

African or European?

@@howardosborne8647 what either metric or imperial

The studs are on the floor so the skirting is not a problem. The bit that has the give is the top channel on the ceiling. That is why it is not fixed to the studs. Have another look at it and you will see where the channel is free to move up and down on the studs which don't move.

​@@SkillBuilderwhat about the side channel, that was screwed to the wall. That will not allow any give.

​@@redx11xdeflection happens to the middle of the floor/ceiling So the outside studs don't deflect

Great to hear!

@@SkillBuilder The 400mm centres in the bathrooms were horrible to drill (the service holes are never where you need them) and finagle the pipe through, but now I understand why they did it that way.

Yes you could but there is no real advantage that I can think of. It might blow away if you don't anchor it.

@@PJvaleting No you couldn’t do it with the C-stud he’s using. I’d do it with I-stud and line it with ply or similar. You could use Metsec, but a bit excessive.

Thanks 👍

@@SkillBuilder It's a really good one. I can't believe I never saw it before.

It’s Pythagoras that you would have been taught at school

@@lukepeacham9663 I must have been off that day.

@@42RHD 🙂

🤣

I have had to do this. We built the stud construction in panels and fixed the double layer of plasterboard on the back before fixing in place. It was fixed into place with an air gap from the existing party wall with neoprene rubber all round any place the stud touched any structural component of the house. It was sealed with silicone from our side before the stud walls were filled with sound proofing rockwool. We then fixed a double layer of overlapping plasterboard from our side with extra silicone then rendered with plastic multifinish and made good. Made a huge difference.

@@bobbif100 Use I-stud or metsec.

It would shatter and blow out the tile....on concrete no problem

I appreciate the heart guys. Please forgive me for being so crude. I just don't get the thinking behind this process. I would love it if we showed the proper and really only 1 way to do this. I do watch a lot of your channel.

@@ConstructionKronies I’m with you.

Why don’t we use the deflextion thing when fitting timber stud walls? Why only metal?

@@teewithey5879 Timber studs are strong enough to actually hold the ceilings up.

Did he put a fixing in the bottom track and only missed the top deep track. Or do you not put fixings in either? Also, can you explain why he put the plasterboard on the top of the deep track. Thanks

If you are doing metal stud you have to join on a stud. I explained the way you space the studs. If you go horizontally you need a mid height nogging which is difficult with metal stud,

@@thehazelnutspread Horizontal is called railroading , not legal if checked by BG in the UK.

Timber for a wall hung frame

How much is mine?

@@SkillBuilder 10:46 hmm, one roger finger length :))

It is easy enough to break floor tiles up on either side of the wall but the floor is the floor. You have to draw a line under the job and move on instead of worrying about everything that might happen but probably won't.

Surprised that more people don’t prefer this.

Is that not the definition of a wall

Or even a curtain

Rule number one of joining between two slabs is to never have a rigid connection on both slabs, as it will break the load bearing material/stud, when one moves and the other doesn't, or if they move in different directions simultaneously. Also, if that material is metal, you need to allow for thermal expansion (on exterior uses). Both rarely happen in housing projects, but it is a proper way to do it. Also, this product is German and is up to EU Code, it's used across the Europe without any issues, for many decades. Those twigs usually seen in US acting as studs, would never support a ceiling in Europe, as here it is usually (about 90% of the time) done as slabs of reinforced concrete. I do agree, however, than a typical American house needs all the help it can get, and that's why thier choice is timber studs, to also support the ceiling.

Timber studs unless designed as load bearing are not supposed to support a ceiling, a floor needs to be designed to support itself , Clueless diy'ers please stop typing rubbish comments

@@pauldavies7251 Hahaha - it's Mr Personality! Better known as YT's King Canute vainly holding back the tide - as he sees it - of YT "rubbish comments".

Timber is a great material but it is prone to twisting and warping. I have had to straighten some timber stud walls before fitting bathrooms.

No it isn't, you sound like a clueless dinosaur with opinions like that! Have you used it or seen it used on site?

You are right and I was waiting for someone to notice that. It would be a slotted hole if reqired or the door liner could hold it in position.

​@@SkillBuilderhow would you make a slotted hole

Why do you think it's hard to run services through all studs have holes in them for that purpose. Not all studs are equal cheaper studs are made of thinner metal, even british gypsum studs come in different grades. I've been drylining since I left school never heard anybody claim it is noiser the timber studs. The plus point is it is much quicker the studs don't warp and twist like timber.

@@michaeloates5804 how is it quicker? It looked more time consuming watching bill do it. Wood just needs a circular saw!

@@michaeloates5804 And I've been a joiner since I left school - and I could have had that partition made up (on the floor), stood up, plumbed up and fixed in less than half the time, without even setting up the mitre saw. There were no holes in the noggins in my son's house, when the plumber was trying to run new plastic pipes to his bath. It was a nightmare.

@@michaeloates5804 It is certainly easier to construct a decoupled low sound transmission wall from. Had to use it on an old mill conversion that was for hostel use and the architect had specced it. We weren't that entusistic about it to begin with but very soon after starting to use it we were very impressed with the system.

@@johnriggs4929 That is why it was a nightmare for you...because the type of stud was all wrong for the application. With the right spec of studs running services is very easy. Just to say I have nothing against timber stud at all.

It is not a bad mask but I prefer the JSP for comfort. In the end they are all hard to work in on a hot day when you are shovelling out the rubble.

@@SkillBuilder 😷😆🧱👍🏽