Great video, it prompted me to buy the Martindale ET4500 which arrived today. The walkthrough is virtually the same and has saved a trawl through the manual. Very pleased with my purchase, loving your other videos too.
Thanks for the feedback. I've been meaning to do a follow up vid of the thing in action testing final circuits, but haven't found the time to date. I will get that done eventually!
Very informative video David. Would you consider buying one now, or would you consider another tester? I’m looking for a tester to help with my apprenticeship. But I’m unsure what to buy.
Last question David. I just watched the very funny podcast! You mentioned the Panasonic eneloop pro batteries. Can I use these in my Metrel instead of the factory ones that come with the Metrel mi3001s?
Thanks for this review..pretty much the only one I can find, pretty tempted to get one of these. My mft1552 has done my proud but the time has probably come now for a new set.
Out of the testers I own Rob, and that includes a 1552, a Fluke, a TIS MFT Pro and access to a Megger 1741, this still remains my favourite simply because it shows the most information at a glance. The main advantages you'll get over your trusty 1552 are Type-A RCD testing, phase rotation and an on-screen reminder of the 80% value when Zs testing (assuming you set it to the device you're testing). The only downside is that proprietary probe connection, but my leads lasted four years before they started getting flaky requiring me to fork out £60 for a new set. Oh, and the soft case which is hopeless. I keep mine in a Fluke box!
Thanks David..yes the type a testing or lack of was flagged up by NIC inspector in November so been looking around and physching myself up since then. New Meggers are a lot and I quite fancy a change. Thanks again
I have a Metrel MI3125 and a Megger LCB2002/2. Both recently calibrated and yet the Megger reads lower than the Metrel. On one socket the Metrel reads 0.33, while the Megger reads 0.24. Ok, they are both in the same ball park, but I hoped the readings would be closer. How does your Metrel compare to your other machines? Also I find the Metrel's readings not as consistant as the Megger's.
I have got hold of a Martindale ET4500 (similar to the Metrel as mentioned in other comments, but with 4mm test sockets). I thought it had an issue when a Zs reading was 0.56 and my Fluke was saying 0.35 with all leads the same. After some swapping and eliminating I found that when nulling my test leads on the Fluke, they were adding 0.21 to the equation which was obviously 'nulled' to give (a presumably correct) 0.35. Happy that I'd got to the bottom of the problem, I eagerly skipped over to the ET4500 to null the leads - only to find you can't for any of the 'live' tests like you can with the Fluke. I tried nulling them on the continuity setting, which worked fine but the values stored there are NOT used during the Zs tests. I have looked at David's video here to confirm the display is the same as mine (no 'Null' tick or cross) for the Z tests. 0.21 ohms (or whatever it might be) is a massive discrepancy when dealing with such small values. Can someone confirm if I am in fact, going mad or is this a common problem with different makes of MFT?
@@kirkhamandy Great to hear you have had good experiences too. I like the flexibility of the 4mm sockets and decent battery life and easy charging in the meter. Despite loads of effort and help from Martindale and Metrel, I have never managed to get the ET Link software package working. But it is far from essential, just a bonus. Shame you have to take/send the meter to Martindale for software updates rather than be able to do it yourself like you used to. Overall though, really happy with it and sounds like you are.
Very informative video as usual, thank you! How is the tester holding up 2 and bit years down the line? My Megger has recently given up the ghost. Like the look of the Metrel MI3152. I do a lot of EV charger installs and the EV test options on there look to be miles ahead of the competition. I know you you have a different model, but how would rate the overall durability and reliability of Metrel in general? Not much info and reviews out there about the brand, just wondered your thoughts?
Hi Benjamin. I'm happy to report that this remains my primary tester out on site and has survived life on the back of the van (and the odd drop from the top of the step ladder). I've no issues, concerns or regrets with choosing this over any other instrument. Out of all the testers I've owned or used, this still gives me the most information at-a-glance on a good, clear display which is of primary importance to me besides the feature set. Their newer model with the touch screen works with their EV dongle I believe, but I've no experience of that. Did I see the GSH channel reviewing it recently? I may be wrong, but I'm sure I saw it being looked at somewhere.
David Savery Electrical Services, yes I’ve seen the GHS reviews, they have nothing but good things to say about the tester. I’m going to take the plunge and purchase it. I’ll let you know how I get on. I’m slightly sceptical about the touch screen, but sure I’ll get used to it. Many thanks for the videos, especially your one on the scope of works. Should be essential viewing for anybody wanting to set up their own company.
The voltage drop test is neat! I'll have to check if mine can do that, I definitely know a place where I want to do one! It's a hostel in an old castle and I know people have complained about dim LED lights when a hairdryer is plugged in! Impedance readings are OK but I still suspect a sky-high voltage drop. It's a mixed 10 amp lighting and socket circuit that probably runs around 100 metres up from the fuse board on the ground floor way up into the tower (6th floor). Eventually I want to put in a sub-board on the 5th floor serving the 4th through 6th floors fed with 10 mm2 but that's some time in the future. Did I mention that one circuit feeds two entire floors of guest rooms minus hallway lighting?
Hi Dave been watching your clips regarding various bits of sparky kit, have you by any chance used, tested or used a Di-Log DL9110 - I'm thinking of buying one and was wandering if you had any experience with them, thanks
Funny you should mention the DiLog - I'm hoping to get my mitts onto one today, albeit briefly, as the chap I'm working with has one. Aside from that, I've no experience of their wares.
Thanks Dave, see also the Martindale 4500 which appears to be the exact same thing, but in a yellow case and without the proprietary connector on the top! I still rate this as the best tester I've used though, lovely clear information!
Hi Dave, looking to get a multi function tester and have always used Metrel and like you I prefer the rotary type selector and really liked the 3100s would you still recommend this unit Great videos keep them coming
Still my favourite instrument Neil. It gives the most information on the screen at-a-glance than any other. I did have to buy a new lead for it recently which was pricey considering its proprietary connector, but it's a top product nonetheless and Metrel don't pay me to say that.
I was lend the touch screen version for a week by wholesaler when I had to test 20 story high tower it was great kit but cost was around £1000 but it was new and I thought in the van or work touchscreen it become an issue for been sensitive so I went back to megger 1721 I think it’s good kit
hi david, the pass and fail options doesn’t seem to work on my meter. if my impedance is 0.72ohm and the lim is 0.42ohm for example it will still show pass. i even put it to a type d breaker at 125a which a lim of 0.07ohm and still passed an impedance of 0.72ohm. help will be greatly appreciated.
Hi David I’m in the market for a new MFT and happy to buy a Metrel I am just wondering is the cost difference of about 160 euros between the Metrel Mi 1300 s model and the slightly more basic Metrel Mi 1300 worth it. I have no issues paying the cost difference if it is. Is the only advantage of the Mi 1300 s the earth rod tests and the red green indicators Thanks in advance for any help with this. Love the you tube vids keep up the great work. Regards Kieran
Hi Kieran. I've no experience of the 3100 (without the 's'), but it does look like it covers the basics. One thing to look for is what range of RCD tests it performs as many older testers will only test Type-AC RCD's, but Type-A is taking over from those, and if you're getting into EV charging then Type-B will also be important. My 3100s supports Type AC, A and F, but not B. Also, check out the Martindale ET4000 and 4500 which appear to be rebadged versions without the proprietary lead connector. The last thing I'd say is to always go for the best tester your budget allows for. This is the most important bit of kit you own, and you don't want to find it slows you down, lacks functions or requires upgrading after a couple of years. Even if you think now that spending more on features you don't think you'll use isn't worth it, you may find that the job comes up where it would be just the thing to keep you out of trouble!
Hi Richard. This tester requires connection of the neutral when loop testing. In addition it doesn't come with a remote test button probe, nor does it begin the test automatically on detection of voltage like the Megger branded testers do. As such, it can be somewhat cumbersome to perform a Zs test on a circuit other than a socket outlet where the socket lead can be used, as you have to hold three probes in place and push TEST on the front of the unit. I hope to upload some more helpful videos in the coming weeks showing the Metrel in actual use!
@@dsesuk Does it? I seem to remember that you can just connect the blue and yellow/green leads together using the loose leads, connect the brown to the line and the two others to the earth. I don't have my older Eurotest at home so I can't check though. Mine (bought in 2012) did come with a test button probe but it was quite a bit more expensive than yours (1000 Euros for a display model, I think full retail was close to 1200).
@@Ragnar8504 Sorry, I should have clarified that; you can do two-lead loop testing by combining the neutral/earth leads, but not if you're downstream from an RCD. Apologies, I think I misread the original question.
Hi Jason. To my knowledge, the only difference is that the Martindale has standard ports for test probes whereas the Metrel has a proprietary port (the big square connector on top). Other than that and the case colour, they look like they come off the same conveyor belt.
@@dsesuk OK then that been the case that there is vertually no difference between the two testers why then did you opt for the metrel given that you don't care too much for the "fisher-price" look of the metrel and you even stated that you preferred a yellow colour instrument. Just asking because I wondered if there may be more advantages of choosing the metrel over the martindale that you have not elaborated on.
@@gyasikrasineb4808 It basically comes down to a lack of shopping around! I saw the Metrel at Elex which is why I was attracted to it, and at the time I didn't look to see what else was on the market, so although I was aware that Martindale made MFT's, I didn't check them out. Back then, I was like many others in the Megger vs. Fluke mindset, so after seeing the Metrel I thought it might be an interesting alternative direction, especially as I couldn't find anyone else using them (there were no other RU-vid videos about it at that time for example). If I were making a choice again today, maybe I'd go for the Martindale as that proprietary connector on the Metrel almost put me off buying it. I have to say that the baby blue has since grown on me, but that may be because of time spent out in the field with the thing as it has performed sterling service over the last couple of years!
Hi Dave.. still happy with your metrel? My kewtech died on continuity (again) i prefer by new one than paying for repair.. I really like this tester..im dont like new Meggers.. this seems to be the way..
Out of all my testers, this is the one I prefer Michal. Martindale make a carbon copy except with standard probe ports, so it may be worth checking that too (ET4000/4500 if I recall). Well featured, and displays more information at-a-glance than any other tester I've owned.
To measure impedance, you'd use the loop function. If no RCD is upstream, you'd leave it on the Zs setting with the blue lead plugged into the green lead for a two-probe test between line and earth (brown and green probes). If an RCD is upstream, you switch it to the ZSrcd function and connect the three probes to line, neutral and earth (brown, blue and green respectively).
David I have my late brother's ROBIN kts 1620 MFT but no instruction book on one of the function diles you have continuity insulation resistance loop and psc, so no sure how to do Ze two lead high loop test
I have a 3125BT and it has a single 250V glass fuse instead of the two big and one small that yours has. It doesn't have a "continuity" or "R LOW" mode called that, just names for all the tests: R2, r1, R1+R2, etc. Seems a bit silly to me, I'd prefer it to just say "continuity"! Unlike yours it won't continuously test, you can't leave it testing whilst wiggling cables to see if anything dodgy is going on. My assumption is that's a safety thing, it won't let you test if it can measure a voltage on the terminals which does kind of make sense. That becomes an issue when you're testing cables that are run alongside others and they're picking up voltages. When it does run the test, it tests in both directions. +ve to L and -ve to N, then -ve to L and +ve to N. Not sure what advantage that is. I wonder if your 3100S is doing something different in the "continuity" mode than it is the the R2, r1, R Low, etc. modes, because they seem to behave like mine. Is it still 200mA in continuity? It's got a Z loop, Zs RCD Std and a Zs RCD Low, no idea what the difference between the latter two is but the "Low" seems less accurate. Maybe it's putting even less current to earth? Curious. I'd assumed they'd share the internals. I like the little voltage display in the corner. I do prefer the way that Megger lays out the impedance tests, I don't know why we need a separate menu for live loop impedance and earth loop impedance. The main reason I went for the 3125BT is type B RCD testing which I don't believe the 3100 has. Even though it does look even more Fisher Price.
when doing the ze test, does the neutral have to be connected too, as it has the half circle showing that it would be better for it to be connected? or does it just dangle whilst you only use the brown and green leads?
I normally leave the blue lead plugged into the green lead for any testing where blue isn't specifically required (i.e. anything other than a no-trip test or phase rotation).
@@dsesuk ah. everyone is giving me different answers😂 someone said to just put the neutral lead onto the neutral terminal. does this piggy back change the reading? thanks.
@@db-bv5rs As far as I know, for a Ze the instrument is only looking at the green and brown ports which is the same as any other tester. The difference with the Metrel is that the blue lead is always present, whereas on other testers you simply wouldn't fish it out of the case and plug it in for that kind of test. I don't think the Metrel cares what the blue lead is doing, hence the half circle on the display, so for convenience I leave it daisy chained off the back of the green lead to stop it flapping around. You can connect it to neutral if you want, but if it isn't a no-trip test then you're just making your day a little more awkward for no reason!
I have the MI3000 and when carrying out Ze I have to put the blue lead on the neutral even for a “2 lead” test. It doesn’t carry out the test when piggy backing the neutral into earth lead
Both capable instruments I'm sure. I've no experience with either of those specific models, although I have the 3100s and I've always said that's the best MFT I ever bought. Fluke are well renown though. The only thing with them is they're bloody costly to repair *if* they go wrong!
Please could you do a r1 and r2 tests as I want to buy a metrel. Do you put the settings on flow continuity function and scroll to the r1+r2 and tests I would really really appreciate your help
The MI3100s model I have (without the memory function) can perform a continuous continuity test, or you can get R1+R2 readings by putting it on that setting (or the r1, r2, R2 or R LOW settings which are all the same). The model with the memory can, presumably, store individual test results for each of these tests, but for me they're all performed in the same way on the same probes (brown+green) with the same result. The R1+RN and rn functions would also give the same result, but the test would be performed with the brown+blue probes. Normally I keep the blue and green leads plugged in together so it makes no difference at all which test I select! I know you're waiting for a video of this thing in action - making RU-vid videos seems to be really time consuming(!) I do plan to put one together soon though.
Unlike most testers where you select the leads you wish to use and plug them into the right holes, the Metrel has a proprietary connector with all three leads always present. With all the two-lead test functions such as resistance and continuity the tester itself will automatically select whether the brown lead is used with either the green or the blue, so you may as well keep the green and blue connected together. You only need to use green and blue separately on a three-lead test such as the Zsrcd, phase rotation and earth rod testing functions.
i have the metrel 3101AT, what is the difference? they seems to be the same function wise but this one has a knob to switch functions with instead of doing it on the display. looks to me I rather would have had the 3100 instead of the 3101 i have, more easy to understand but maybee it is just about to get used to the one you have. edit, now I see my 3101 have more rcd test so I guess I prefer mine anyway. lol
When I attended the Elex show in September 2017, I saw the two together on the Metrel stand and the guys manning it were trying to push the newer model. Personally, I like the mechanical operation of the 3100s as you can get a bit lost in the nested menus of touchscreens, but I take their point that fewer moving parts perhaps makes for more robust operation. The 3100s is still the best tester I own, or have ever owned, but as you say, it's what you get used to!
@@dsesuk Thanks for input. Mine does not have a touchscreen either but instead of the knob you have to use the cursor buttons on the left side. It is the new 3152 I think that has a touchscreen. But, I like my 3101 a lot and will keep that one until it dies.
It's still going strong Darren. The power button is a little dicky these days - got some dust under it I reckon, but it's a tough bit o' kit. Just last week there was more talk about it and other testers on the Electricians podcast: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GLEdnavToJ8.html
@@dsesuk cheers mate. Thanks for the reply . I’m glad it’s still going strong. At least I can know what to expect . I like your channel by the way. Very easy to understand and not boring
Having that test metre in a fluke box is like the girl up the road that shops in Aldi an puts her stuff in M&S bags. To carry in to the house for the world to see. Saying that I am thinking of buying one.
Haha! Well, more fool Metrel for not providing something similar with their name emblazoned across it. I don't know why those who supply soft cases don't cotton on to the fact that if they had a good hard case, it makes for good advertising!
(2:40) - are those test leads double insulated ? Yes, it's obvious that each line is independent but is each line double insulated ? > Thanks. EDIT: PS: I mean,those 16mm tails are double insulated ain't they? Grey on't outside. Whatever colour you want on't inside. >
@@dsesuk No, I meant those test leads on your Metrel. I merely mentioned meter tails as an example of a single core double insulated cable. Apologies for confusing you.
Nice looking tester not a fan of the three leads all together, my megger does 2 low Zs tests negating the need for a third lead. Although it does take slightly longer I find it much easier than holding three probes with two hands in a live enclosure
I must admit, I was worried about the three-lead setup, but I now prefer it. The three leads are plaited together so they come out of the case as one. It saves having to detangle the blue lead when you just want the other two. In fact, on my Megger now I've plaited the three together and always pull them out as one in the same way.
Found the manufacture of the Fluke C1600 case if you want to get one for a lot less than Fluke ($74 vs $~20) and in different colors. www.flambeaucases.com/14-quot-zerust-dry-box-t1408-gear-box.aspx
Would be interesting to know if you have information for doing such. I'd have thought it would require a firmware update/replacement unless the thing is fully equipped and it's just a software lockout that can be overridden. I wouldn't be surprised if it were the same board internally, but would they fit the memory and related components or are there spaces on the PCB where they've been left out? I won't crack mine open to find out while it's still under warranty, but let me know if you have the inside info!
