This is a great video, There is a little room for more accurate tightening. The MLS should be 20NM then 180 degrees then 180 degrees. This guy is no chimp though and there is a great deal of skill in having the "feel" for tightening cylinder head bolts. I would always change cam belt and water pump as part of the job. Well done and thanks for posting.
Serious though, this guy is a professional. Gasket didnt look that bad really, ive seen a hell of alot worse. Weird isnt it how a thin piece of metal is so important.
If you have removed the intake manifold, then make sure you return it roughly to position before you bolt down the cylinder head. Or it's a task to slide it in position afterwards, over the starter motor, if you loosen the coolant pipes, you can twist it in!
That's really a cool video! Often, we are lost between not enough and too much information. Used with the information from manuals and other technical sources; it's kind of like a dance video! You kind of have motion with the job! Brilliant! Love it! and the music.... well why not takes the serious, miserable side of having to repair the bloody thing away. ;-)
Not for the amateur then! Knowing my luck I'd get it all put back together and look round to see the gasket on the bench! Nice video; I'll leave it to the pro's!
the only problem with his repairs, that he took the head off, by releasing the head bolts from the cambelt side and made his way towards the clutch side, also, when he was putting it back, he did not follow the tightening sequence, just tightened them 1 by 1. should have done, X Nm and angle tighten further 90 degrees or so. good bit, that he started from the middle, that is the only good point.
I wouldn't have used that MLG, they're just prone to failing as the early type of Neoprene gaskets, he should have used the later style Rover neoprene gaskets, I've had no problem with them, but apart from changing the cam belt, I would always change the thermostat housing seals and the water pump seals, they're more prone to failure than the head gasket. Those early type neoprene gaskets Rover used on the MGF were awful.
The new 2 part gasket in this video will also tend to fail. There is an even newer "N Series" gasket that is riveted together, and that one doesn't fail.
thankyou so much phoeblelala ^_^ (and thanks to the other guys!) I used the torque wrench (black/orange wrench) and then I have screwed 180 ° +180 °, the video is not accurate, I'm not a good video makers :)
Good vid. Land Rover should have been forced to take back EVERY 1.8 Freelander and fit new modified head gaskets.. Its criminal that they got away with such a rubbish design and left owners to foot the bill.!!
I guess if you're an idiot that would be so. It's an easy engine to work on.... but I guess if you don't work on them you wouldn't know.... and that would put your comment in perspective.
good job, but tell me what was the cause of the repair, what symptoms and exactly what you mentioned ... if you can;] I also have a car with this engine and promises to repair, heard knocking from the vicinity of the valve cover
Hello mate.Cheers for the video.Im planning to buy a little cabrio like this.Which engine is the best i mean less sensitive?1.6 or 1.8 and what are the marks what i have to deffenetly check when im gonna check one of these? Thanks in advance for Your answer Cheers again for the video
peter, milanese... buono a sapersi! :D sto valutando l'acquisto di una mg f del 1997, cosa mi puoi dire di questa vettura? io adoro la sua linea e l?ho provata, ma ho paura dell'affidabilità...
+Stefano Dendena sistemate quelle due o tre cosine diventa affidabile come un'auto qualunque, l'aspetto più critico oggi riguarda le sospensioni perché i ricambi scarseggiano ed il sistema è molto particolare, il rischio non sussiste invece con la mg TF, che adodda un sistema classico a molle. vieni nel club www.tfpassion.it per tutte le curiosità :)
