Micro Swiss NG Direct Drive Upgrade (Creality Ender 5) 

When mine started leaking I ended up having to replace it. The threads were too loose and leaked badly no matter how tight it was.

Mine came with the bl touch bracket

I have been running these (NG) for a while now. They just work really well. I have thrown a pretty wide range of filaments at it.

print two brackets, thank me later:)

@@slicedpage what do you mean?

@@hamthomas4715 When I bought my NG a few months ago it did not come with a bracket for my cr touch. I had to print one before I removed the old hotend. So I dismantled my ender 3 hotend and attached the new NG. Then I wanted to attach my CR touch and the bracket broke. Now I had a new NG with an unlevel bed and a print that HAD to be printed ASAP for a customer. I cobbled together a bracket to get the job done but I regretted only printing one cr touch bracket. So I always advise new buyers of the NG to print at least two. Now of course micro swiss includes these brackets with the purchase.

@@slicedpage the Ender 6 is "incompatible" with CR/BL Touch according to Creality, so MS doesn't provide a bracket STL for it, let alone ship a premade one. That's why I had to design one, and I'll be posting/sharing that once I'm done tinkering.

Thank you for the kind words 😊. Hopefully this will make it easier for Ender 5 installs but I am glad to hear the Ender 3 one was enough to get you what you needed 👍

Anytime :)

You rock! I spent alot of time getting footage for this in hopes that it would be very clear to follow for anyone that wants to do this mod.

Thank you for the sub 😊. So much more to come.

I definitely wouldn't go up that high. I would recommend like 80mm/s max

@@coltenmeredith8899 yeah I agree with you there as I have fine tuned it a tone. Wouldn't recommend doing this otherwise. It also barely achieves the speeds due to low accel

@Killer Miller I must ask you, is the ender 5 a good printer? I have been looking at them for a week or so. I only have an E3V2 and have been looking to get something a little nicer.

@@coltenmeredith8899 I don't have the ender 5 sorry but what I can tell from reviews and raw specs it seems good.

@@killermiller9915 Oh, what printer did you put it on? An ender 3?

For the fam shroud I feel like it makes sense. Especially when they were showing possible Revo options. It would also be cool to se a shroud made for a 5015. For the reverse Bowden that could definitely be injection molded or machined though. Is it through a reseller for you then?

@@ModBotArmy Not through a reseller... directly from Micro-Swiss. The exchange rate between USD and CAD makes everything a little less appealing... I agree with you with regards to the 5015 fan shroud... that'd be great (especially since I use 5015 fans for part cooling on all of my printers).

They have released the STL for the duct and I printed the 4020 variant. It works very well and definitely superior to stock fan version.

Using a NG with a 5015 on my E3Max via an adaptor, and doing 60m bridges with no problems, and it does have dual fan outlets, so it cools both sides of the print well.

What are the creature comforts that the NG doesn't have compared to the sprite?

@@JeanSolagnier The way the whole hotend/extruder is mounted is a big one. It has 3 bolts on the side that are super easy to take on and off, its almost like having something like Wham Bam Mutant. It makes working on the extruder or changing nozzles much easier. The NG you have to reuse your wiring. Not a huge deal, but the wiring on the Sprite is super clean. 1 cable that is easy to take on and off for everything including the CRTouch. Speaking of the CRTouch it has an ABL bracket built in. Like every hotend I have seen Creality produce, the heater block is attached to the heatsink. You dont have to worry about the heater block spinning when changing a nozzle.

Newer kits all ship with a printed BLtouch mount. As far as crtouch I am not 100% about the physical differences between the two. It may require some slight adjustment.

@@ModBotArmy The wire location on the CRTouch is in a slightly different place than the BL/3D Touch. It is a simple enough thing to make a BLTouch mount work with the CRTouch. Import the stl into something like TinkerCAD or 3D Builder and take a very small cut out of the stl so the wires can clear the mount.

@@ModBotArmy really because I just ordered mine last Monday directly from micro swiss and it didn't have it, I guess I'm sending an email to customer support

@@Q1320 yeah they told me roughly around then that they would all be shipping with them.

@@ModBotArmy yeah I'm going to email them, not because I need it as I printed my own before I bought the NG but dang I want it if it's supposed to be there maybe their print is better than mine lol

If you have a DD that you are happy with, no point upgrading, unless you upgrade for the sake of upgrading. To be honest, although I am looking at these, my Ender 5 Pro prints amazingly well with the bowden tube setup. Because I don't print TPU or other flexible filament, and I don't print high temp filaments, the 260 degree limit on the bowden tube setup is fine for me also. I rarely get stringing, unless I use old filament, and I have never had a jam, which is pretty amazing. Any upgrades would really be just for the sake of upgrading, which can sometimes make things worse. Bowden tube has it's advantages by keeping the hot end really light, where adding a DD extruder system woudl add a fair bit of weight on the hot end.

heat the hotend cut the straightened filament at an angle and slip it through the bowden tube onto the rollers. Please don't worry about the arm thingy. Using the menu select motion then extruder and let the NG take the filament.

@@slicedpage Thanks - but I'm not the only one having the same issue. I've done what you say time and time again and it jams more often then not. This is not my first 3D printer or DD system.

@@txwombat7826 I was struggling too so I contacted micro swiss and they gave me those steps to follow. I used to almost take the thing apart to get the filament to go through the extruder. I understand this is not your first rodeo and I apologise if I come across as patronising but I know how frustrating what seems to be the easiest step can be. Let me tell you my setup. Ng of course with about 10cm of Bowden tube secured with the coupling and retention clip. The compression arm screw is about 5mm away from the housing. Then as I mentioned before. When I first did it I was annoyed that I could not have done that before LOL However, I have heard stories of the compression arm roller not lining up with the other gears and that those units had to be returned. I hope you do not have one of them, you might like to check.

@@slicedpage Thanks for the additional details - Filament path / arm is good / aligned.

@@txwombat7826 it is a pickle. Back when I was tearing my hair out trying to load the filament I would twist and push it until I felt it go in but then when I used the extruder to pull it through it would curl up inside where the arm is. I'd remove the housing and unscrew the arm and clear debris away with my trusty can of air and try again. Even the slightest piece of torn filament blocked the hole forcing any filament to go the wrong way. I assume you have done that. That the filament is not uneven. And that there is no chink in the Bowden tube and that you have tried without the tube and that the gears freely move. And that you have tried increasing and decreasing the spring screw on the arm thingy. If so then you may also have contacted Micro Swiss and they have or will tell you what they told me. If you have done all that and yet the filament refuses to go through into the nozzle then maybe the 3D printer gods have decided that this world is not for you and that your destiny lies elsewhere.

No, it is considered a reverse bowden tube, as he said. The extruder is in the hot end, so the bowden tube only directs the filament to the print head. Some people prefer this way, keeping the filament roll where it was before. I prefer mounting the filament spool on top of the printer, then going down to the print head without a tube. Just personal preference.

@rcflyer2k I'm definitely going to try it. I just thought that short piece of ptfe is a compromise. I'm a bit of a noob so I'm not really sure.

@@paulmyfinger Not a compromise, it is the right way to do it. The long tube makes it a PITA to chnage filaments, and a diriect staright line feeds better, at least in my testing over the last couple yeras of usind Direct Drive extrulders.

swap the wires to the stepper motor around

That is wild to hear. I have never heard of issues with their shipping before. Glad you made it work, but yeah that’s not good.

@ModBot ya the products are so nice too, but now I worry when ordering from them.

I just finished my base conversion 2 weeks ago. 😊 check out my other channel “ModBotArmy” we pretty much streamed the entire build.

IMHO it was money well spent. Faster prints, multiple filaments, so much less hassle and excellent customer support.

I have 2 of the original MS HE/DD and an NG. I don't see a big printing difference between them , but the NG is quite a bit lighter, that might make a difference at higher speeds if using Klipper.

the shroud is prone to touching the hotend but quite sturdy. You could print a replacement if you had to.

I hope not?! I have not heard anything. I know he normally works on very ambitious projects so I figured he was deep in his next video. I hope he is okay.

@@ModBotArmy he had the flu apparently. He didn’t say what kind.

@@rcflyer2k I guess maths was not your fav subject at school