Yep! You got me alright. I was not expecting that. Good job! That was an easy enough fix. I didn't realize that there was a fuse in the microwave. I'll have to remember that. 😀
@@bgd5339 The breaker was being tripped repeatedly at first, then the fuse blew, this caused the microwave to have no power at all. The fuse is on the power distribution board, so it protects the microwave should there be a short somewhere.
@@GenesTherapy Okay, that makes sense. I thought the fuse was blown when you were having trouble with your breaker tripping. What was causing your breaker to trip then?
Man we been dealing with this forever,we would could not open door while it was running ,I followed your video and it fixed it,thanks,by the way your video scared the hell out me,lol
I have exact same problem and currently living with several trips to Trip breaker in a days..but now i got what could be the problem. I am going to try on the weekend. Thanks for making this video. And it was a cool trick 😎. You did get me there
Good info! Would you give some basic training on how to read schematics? Would love to get a good multimeter that beeps. My basic Harbor Freight one has no bells or whistles to it.
I remember my dad using an ohm meter (pretty sure it was a 'multi-meter,' but he always called it an ohm meter), to test various things, and for some tests, he would first choose a setting on the meter, and then touch the leads to each other--I presume to test that the meter itself was working, and its battery had a charge? But I was a teenager, and I don't recall which setting he used for that test prior to whatever thing he was actually going to check. Oh--and very funny on the "gotcha" moment. LOL! I was just thinking prior to that, "be careful what you touch; don't let the magneto zap you!"
Good memory you have! Yes touching them together ahead of time will give you the exact reading of zero resistance, so when you check a circuit, you can see not only if you have continuity, but also partial resistance will show a lower reading. :)
Aside from scaring the bejesus out of me...with that flash...I have to say thank you for showing me how to do this (correctly). I did miss how to use the voltage battery tester so I will have to watch it again. I hope my microwave never does this by the way. As a single person who has had to deal with household emergencies I've done pretty well still alive. Your advice is good and I always learn from guys who explain things so that I understand them. (the advice) I didn't major in electronics or math- - I'm just a retired art teacher. ha. I do enjoy your vids and hope to see you sometime in Central Florida, WDW or wherever. Thanks again for the info on the fuse in the microwave - who knew...
actually first test should have been checking power at the Microwave power outlet in that cabinet By Plugging in a Hair dryer in the outlet to see if it can carry the current required to power up a Microwave. checking voltage at outlet would have been good too. use one of those outlet polarity checkers too like this kind --- www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA to check for loose wiring or missing neutral etc.
Good info, I actually did check the outlet after the microwave completely died with a Southwire recepticle tester, I forgot to include that on the vid. I guess I overlooked it because the micro had a history of tripping the breaker each time I opened the door, so I didn't think the outlet was relative, but the door switch was. It would still work fine, but I had to reset the breaker after closing the door, then run the microwave. Finally the door switch connection degraded to the point of blowing the fuse. I'm still scratching my head on why the breaker would trip. Can I get you to email me at the address in the description above? I'd like to bounce things off your head in the future if that's okay :)
All I can say is, I sure am glad I was not holding a cup of hot coffee in my hand...you made me jump and laugh out loud! I will probably need therapy after this.
The door monitor switch had come ajar of it's seat, perhaps from opening and closing a lot, apparently further vibration of driving loosened the connection enough to cause intermittent interruption of the switch to the controller that would trip the breaker, (why would it trip the breaker?). It finally shorted and blew the fuse. I went through and snugged all connections and replaced the fuse, good as gold, but that one switch got my attention so I'm thinking it was the culprit. I've read other people having problems with those door latch switches going bad altogether and needing replacement. We'll see if the issue repeats itself down the road. Any thoughts?
Working overtime on the vids .. two in a row!! Nice fix on the microwave. Were you able to tighten up the top hinge? Seems like most microwave doors have play in them.
Thanks John, I actually repaired, filmed, edited and uploaded the same day (yesterday) You're right about the door, they are made to easily be remove by lifting up on them, I found the loose door was not related to the door latch problem.
Lol your funny😂🤣😂🤣. (My father did electronics in the Air Force) but thanks for the electronic schooling anyway👍😁. It sometimes feels like your just talking to me, lol😀, even though I know you talking to everyone that watches you, but it's still nice to have that feeling 🤗👍😁 thanks for all the great videos I look forward to them.
Shazam!! Even after reading a few comments before watching the vlog.. you got me!! Nice video, funny and educational as always.. keep on truckin' my friend. 😁
I have the same problem but my house runs on a 4000 watt pure sine wave inverter . Some thing about the microwave oven that is brand new , that when it starts it trips the inverter . and the entire house goes down . I have cooked entire meals using my air fry toaster oven ( 1800 watts ) , hot plate ( 1000 watts ) , AC on low ( 580 watts ) , fridge ( 120 watts ) , freezer ( 120 watts ) , and the rest of the house that totaled 3375 watts all at the same time with no issues . It is just something about the start on the microwave that causes the inverter to trip and the rated watts for the microwave is only 1350 watts . So... the cure to this was to simply turn the power down on the microwave to 6 instead on 10 and it runs just fine . My oven is a Master Chef . I have even plugged the microwave strait into the inverter with nothing else plugged in and same thing . Hope this helps if you have the same problem .
I have a KitchenAid (made by Whirlpool) convection microwave from around 2017-2018. It just kicks the breaker as soon as it is plugged into the outlet. I checked the resistance at the plug and it is 0.2 ohms, so essentially a dead short. No wonder it is tripping the breaker. In your video I am not clear on what you fixed. I know you replaced the fuse, but you were tripping the breaker before the fuse blew, right? So you replaced the fuse, but it seems the issue that caused the breaker to trip would still be present.
Great video but I have a few questions. Wasn't the fuse the 2nd issue? It appeared that you the door switch was the first issue but then replacing the fuse resolved both issues? Is that correct? Was a faulty fuse effecting the door switch? Additionally, shouldn't you discharge the microwave high voltage capacitor when working on internal electrical components? Thank you for the video.
This is a frigging joke. This short is dangerous and making a comedy show of it is sickening to watch. This is no joke. No one should be playing with a microwave unless you know what ur doing. Someone will get really hurt making this repair if they will live through it.
John you should read through the comments and see how many benefited from this. I inserted a single funny moment for comic relief, nothing dangerous was done here. Either way I don't make vids any more to help people thanks to useless intolerable paranoid comments like yours.
LOL that was funny as hell I was looking close yeah you got me. After I seen you unplug the microwave and I work on electrical shit all the time that was too funny😂🤣😆 but my question is can you unplug one of those switches and the microwave still work and not blow the damn fuse
Sorry I missed your comment, it was in the 'held for review' folder cuz you poopoo lol! I don't think the microwave will work when pulling the switch because the circuit would not be complete, cheers!
You scared the crap out of me. I sucked in air and screamed. Not funny. I learn so much from your channel. I know nothing about electricity but I managed to put a new indoor power outlet in my RV and I just spent the last two days installing a backup camera. Not done perfect but it works. I've never heard of continuity or the meter thing you showed. But I have replaced a non working wall mount microwave in my house with a new one. I didn't know there were fuzes in appliances. So much I don't know. Everyday is a new trouble to shoot.
Wow very impressive and good for you! Yes I wondered if how many might have thrown out a microwave not knowing only the internal fuse was blown, or worse, a repairman overcharging for something other than just replacing a fuse, ugh.
why would it spark when its unplugged?????? When you are working on something serious... why insert something silly. This is not a Joke. You lose credibility.
liked your presen tation except a shock to see the live wire explosive effect which i guess you must have added and actually did not happen, :) Good details of how to use the multi meter. Thank you
What caused the fuse to blow? You replaced the fuse but I didn't see you fix or replace anything what would cause the fuse to blow! What do you think the problem was and what did you do to fix the short?
Hi Tom, all I could find was that one door latch switch that was loose, failing to make constant contact with the latch and caused a short blowing the fuse. That's all I could find, although securing the switch fixed the problem, I feel it might repeat itself later and I'll end up replacing the switch altogether.
I having trouble with my microwave I heated something up and the fuse blew and the breaker tripped I flipped the breaker back on and changed the fuse when I started the microwave again it blew the fuse and tripped the breaker again what do I do
I honestly don't know Richard without having it in front of me to run some tests. But it sounds like a bad switch like I had in the video. Best of luck!
@@GenesTherapy That's the situation in a rental I have. The old Frigidaire stack washer dryer just went out. I can fix it for 400 bucks, but then it's still a 15 year old machine. I can get a new one for a few hundred more .ild machines are cans of worms.
It's okay you're allowed ;) I'm a retired Orlando PD, so I know about people making fun of what you take seriously, but ya kind of learn to accept the Friday night side of it. Dude you know me by now, I like to leave something unexpected in every video, and this 'Here's your problem right here..buzzzzzt!" is the oldest electrical joke in the book so I thought I would carry on tradition. I still think it is funny, sorry it hit you wrong my friend, I guess I can't please everybody. Happy Friday Monster have an awesome weekend! :) PS thank you for keeping safety first and foremost in everyday real life, especially in this kind of work
@@wentzel8269 Yes with the breaker off and unit unplugged and overly fake looking FX I figured it would be pretty obvious it was the ole science experiment blown up in face joke lol
Hi Buddy, my microwave definitely has same problem like yours but after I change the fuse, my breaker is still jump when i open my microwave door each time
My GE Mongram microwave wasn't POWERED this AM when I awoke. Check circuit breaker...Nothing wrong...hadn't been tripped. Removed MW from built in cabinet and checked OUTLET...Yup...POWER to the MW. After watching your video...and getting INFO about the 20 AMP/250 Volt fuse...I decided to take off the COVER and see what I could find. An ENVELOPE was glued to the top of the INSIDE of the MW. Item #1...Checking the Fuse. Diagram showed location of fuse. Checked continuity of Fuse with Multi-meter...DEAD as a door nail. Trip to Home Depot and VOILA...(2) 20 amp/250 volt fuses for $3.99. HD electrician blessed both ME and the FUSES. Inserted NEW fuse in MW. Cha-ching....MW works just fine. Rather disappointing calls to GE after watching your video. Asked if they were ANY FUSES on the INSIDE of my MW. "None shown on the parts diagram for your model"... Was about to spend about $800 and get the NEWEST MW but your video saved me that. Thanks for your $800 valuable advice.
Excellent story, thank you for sharing that! I'm so happy to hear by you going a few steps further it saved you big bucks in the end. Nothing better than that, cheers!
Update after installing NEW fuse: New fuse allowed the MW to be used...temporarily. Apparently this DIDN'T address the MW's issue. So, I checked each of the MICRO SWITCHES and found that the UPPER DOOR switch was showing little differnce on my multimeter from OPEN or CLOSED positions. I found a serial number on the switch...and search the web and VOILA. For a mere $12+5 shipping...one week later I got the NEW switch. Installed and (cross my fingers) the MW is working properly. GE wanted $53 from their parts service...NO WAY I said I'll install back into cabinet after a week or two of CONFIRMATION of working status. Thanks again for your video. SPECIAL NOTE: Be careful closing MW doors...the switches are really fragile.
Whenever I use my microwave and start it ...my breaker makes a nick or tick sound but it used to spark and trip off. My breaker has fuses? I will be emailing plz look for it. What can I do? Is it the outlet behind my microwave
Thank you very much for all your helpful and entertaining videos. Never knew a simple fuse and door switch replacement on our larger microwave that died a while back ago would bring power back! Thanks so much for helping us inexpensively fix our old microwave.
It’s usually the monitor switch (middle one) that closes before the upper one opens that blows the fuse. Switch misslignment or other excess wear or play in the door hinges that cause it or a bad switch. Just going through this myself. Had to order the plastic piece that holds the switches because of grooves worn in it that changed clearances.
Love your channel. Very interesting to learn these things that might be basic to others, but I have no clue. I have a video suggestion...towing a car pros & cons, wheels down or on a dolly, hookup basics.
HAHA I do that to my family every chance I get. I was just messing with my wife's stun gun/flashlight and forgot to turn it off and ZAPPED my butt when i put it in myback pocket. It felt like 110v lol
Well when I start having problems with our RV I just tell my wife it's time to get a new one..... That's been 6 years ago and I still don't have a new one. :(
