Just did my mid perch, I did not have to remove steering knuckle as suggested and I was able to install both spring compressors with the nut on bottom. Trick is to install spring compressors when the suspension is fully extended vs being slightly compressed. Also I did not have to increase the jack to further compress spring, was done in 30 mins per side. Thanks for video guys!
Just did this mod a few days ago. My shocks were on for about 1 year, just starting to see Wisconsin winters. I struggled with the first one because the clap placement was not right. KEY: Definitely follow where they have the clamps placed or the spring will not compress evenly (my issue). I to had issue with the decal, moving the collar up was not easy but I got it in. And if you compress the springs enough, you CAN get the set screw back in. You can do this with just the end link disconnected. Nice video guys!!
Thank you for this. I did it in my garage in about 3 hours. I had two issues. Couldn’t get the set screw out, so I had to add heat with a butane torch to the collar. Secondly, there is a decal on the shock that made it really hard to move the collar up. I recommend removing that decal first.
i think this video is more for ultralow mileage or new trucks. Any miles, winters or offroad trips is going extend the time in the garage. i removed the shocks after spending about 3hrs trying to do one side on the truck. both set screws were seized, and I didnt have the exact spring compressors they use in vid, so i could really only grab the spring at 8 and 4 if looking from the top. Its only a few more nuts and bolts to remove the strut, so that my recommendation if your truck has over 5K mi, been thru a winter where salt is used, or has been in the mud 3 times.
I actually just made this adjustment and this video an awesome go by I used a C clamp to hold the coil onto the top of the coil bucket and the set screw is a 3/32nd I'm sure that's what they meant to say.
How much lift you get on the top perch and mid perch? And can i throw these struts into an XLT or do i have to buy the Raptor SVT LCAs? Will they fit in stock LCA?
Get the F150 Rear Shackle Kit From Rough Country + 2 new Spring Bolts with Nuts, you'll have to use a cutting wheel to remove the factory upper bolts on a Raptor, 1-2" rear lower is the result.
You FKN had me rolling and peeling my floor off hahahaha, You fkn killed it at 2:30 to 2:40 and mind you I see your video, any of your videos actually for the very first time, I can't fkn help but you got yourself a subber! I cried, I thought I'm gonna fkn die laughing, lolski bro, love from NoRiL Northern Illinois! Gen1 bolz out👍 and thanks for the tip
Just wanted to say that I did this with a buddy in just over an hour for both sides. This is the best way to do this mod while getting to know your truck a bit. Save the money and use it to put on a better exhaust. Just make sure to get it aligned afterwards. Thanks RPG!
Well these guys lost all credibility when they even mentioned the set screw, not when the forgot to put it back in. "8/32" give your head a shake, there is no such tool you could ever pick up that's 8/32nds. Now if some of you are reading this and not picking up what I'm laying down, 8/32nds is and always be 1/4. Not to mention the set screw is no where close to that size. Besides that all you're gonna need is a left handed 15/16ths wrench and can of elbow grease and you're rocking.
This process took me much longer!! If you have any type of corrosion or anything like that on your truck, it will make this process DRASTICALLY more time consuming.
Just did mine alignment is needed make sure you put the set screw back in and also the racket strapped to the hood is alot of stress on it I just wrapped it around the top of the upper shock bolts worked awesome rides great and still does wicked donuts a must have mod!
After pulling my shocks off several times, the set screw does nothing but prevent the lower perch from rotating when installing the spring. It really doesn't touch the body or act as a set screw. Personally, pull the shock off, you will need more tools and a bit more time but you can compress the spring so much easier. Plus, all you then need to do is pull the tie rod end, upper control arm, and sway bar bolt and then get at the shock hardware. From there, mark the lower bolt in relation to the lower control arm and you have your basic idea of how tight it has to go bac in
Yep they missed that out - in reality the pressure on the perch would stop it rotating as would the spring, but if a top mount were to seize then spring rotation would be at the perch
I think the rear suspension is situated where it is higher than the front end. Even when the front end is bumped up to the 2nd notch, it will be pretty much even.
+Mountain Noobs Your shock was already blown, and low on oil.. when you compressed the suspension, it pushed the oil out of the seal. mine just did same thing on one side..
