From BOB EVANS HIGH ON A COOL WAVE (1965). Rescanned to 4K by The Surf Film Archive. Watch more free clips from the birth of Australian surfing at thesurffilmarchive.com.au This is our history. Let's look after it.
oh man, that brought back some memories. Bob Evans was our next-door neighbor in Sydney, Elanora Heights at the time of this film. it was probably this film, Bob used to bring his film projector over to our house and show his new films to a gathering of Sydney surfing identities, greeno, mctavich etc, this fim, that prompted my Father, Bill Wallace, to pay Noosa a couple of visits a few years after this film. and After buying a beach house on Hastings st, Noosa, Bill moved the entire family and surfboard manufacturing business to noosa in 72, been here ever since. Bill and Betty both passed away around 8 years ago. we went to DI many times as kids camping fishing , usually small waves, due to when it's big you cant get up there because of the even bigger waves on the open beach you needed to drive along for 50 miles. the reason we used to see many ancient relic cars that got trapped in the soft sand of the rising tide and big waves. thanks for posting this . Bob Evans, wow, me and his son Glen were best mates, footy together , exploring the bush and caves around Narrabeen and the heights
A golden age of surfing before the crowds, ego-cult hassles and big money. Love the AP6 Valiant wagon. George Greenough, a priveleged Santa Barbara boy who devoted his life to the water and fin design, made an enormous contribution in terms of surfing history.
@@gonzoexpress9885 he did indeed. pioneered "the spoon" (you can see his spoon design at 2:11) and in-the-tube video footage. I sort of remember him in my old man's factory in Brookvale, Sydney. shaping his spoons and fins, I was very young. there were lots of long-haired surfie types hanging about the factory in those days. good times
Drove along the beach to Double Island Point in 1964 in an EH Holden station wagon. We made it to the northern side. When we got back to Noosa it was pumping and did so for the few weeks we stayed. It was May and a cyclone was somewhere out there in The Coral Sea. Awesome journey from Bungan Beach in Sydney. This video brought back some great memories.
Brings back memories. Used to travel up with mates from Caloundra in a 1930's ford that used to be parked in the grave yard. Had no floor so a hairy ride up past the Cherry Venture. Beer, surfing and fishing. My board was from Hayden Kenny and shaped by Bob McTavish. Admired Greenough for his belly boarding, photography and the greenough fin. The 1960's were a magical time!
❤ Great memories! With my Caloundra friends, we used to drive low tide from Noosa to the point and camp in the late 60’s long weekends … was blissful. And since my parents were surfers we used to go there too … late 60’s … so beautiful! Thanks for posting this!
Great memories, went surfing on Fraser Island at the end of 1969, camped on top of Middle Rocks above the Champagne Pools and only saw the same one person and vehicle twice in 4 days. Had dingoes checking us out accross the camp fire, we were sleeping in open fronted tents and all you had to do with the dogs was to clap your hands and they ran away. Totally uncrowded surf, it was only in the next few trips we realised how many sharks were around us.
How wicked. I live an hour from there and have been camping up there since 76 . A lot has changed but the sand bars do form up with the angle of the beach and you can still get a long ride.
I used to live at rainbow Beach and we would often camp on the beach near the lagoon over night during a massive tide and swell. Score solid 2-3foot barrels for about an hour and then the tide would change and it would be like there wasn't any waves there at all. Magical place. And Teewah on the other side of DI is just as good in a NE wind. Paradise
My dad recently sold a Hawaiian spoon made at Bells to a bloke with a museum collection. Apparently the original maker was still kicking on a few years back when dad sold it. I think the initials are AJ in the shape of a bell. This is the first time I've seen one other than his. It's under the blokes arm when they're walking through the sand dunes.
Awesome Valiant wagon there -- "three on the tree" describes the gearshift. and there were dots all over the ceiling of the car. That was my first surf vehicle in California and Oregon. If I'm not wrong, in Australia it is just a "Valiant", in the USA it was a "Plymouth Valiant"...
My white AP6 wagon was the best car I ever owned. I sold it when I went on my first overseas surfing holiday. I thought I was doing my mate a favour by selling him a good car on the cheap. He sold it to George Greenough for double my price. There you go.
American here. I visited Oz in 1979 and sold my Kombi to a friend in order to fund the mission. Before I returned 3 months later my friend had totaled it.
Yeah pity it wasn't 8 foot and pumping. Yes you can ride both points, reminds me of Granite at Noosa, had that to myself on day at 8-10' and it is a nice long ride around the point. Thanks to Titch at Torquay for the 6'8" gun he made for me.
I lived at Noosa from 1985 to 87 working offshore drilling. My field breaks gave me plenty of time to surf and drove a landcruiser so whenever the island was working I was there. Had one day on the south side of the point surfing a beautiful beach break that formed on the sandbar. Nowadays that track over the dunes is 4wd mayhem. Best surf I had was on my own at Granite. Hughesie - Cathederal Rock is my home break now@@nicktrueman224
As soon as there is a hint of a Cyclone every surfing publication seems to want to blow this place up at the moment. I almost hope this cyclone is a fizzer haha
Aarr yes dubble island, still remember the days when the pages in the magazine's were stuck together in the sand hills , and there wasn't a rubber neck or blow in insight. Those were the days my friends
If I count up the nights I've camped along that area it would probably make up a year's worth I reckon. Sadly, it's a highway of people exploiting a truly wonderful ecosystem now. I've seen the point during cyclone swells and it's an incredible site when the sand it hard and sculpted.