Milling and Polishing acrylic glass - Marble Machine X Conveyor Belt Marble Carrier 

its a pleasure to see such artistry at work, the marble machine x is less of an instrument now and more of a labor of love and is such an amazing project to watch unfold week by week, you and all the men and women you are working with are true artists

Amazing finish? so why you ruined it? 😋

You really should look into the superglue and masking tape method of fixing. Still use the pins to edge find but it then lets you do the entire outline of the part without having to turn it. Just needs some masking tape, superglue and accelerator spray and it’s incredibly strong.

@@user-zh6ec7fk1w Tolerances :)

Hi

Look up Uri Tuchmann. He is a German maker too and I absolutely love his videos. I wonder, what he could add to the marble machine if he was a part of the team^^

@@donmeles7711 Yes, that mechanical pencil of his is insane.

You should watch homofaciens

@@masaratech He's good too. I like his method. He can make a CNC mill out of paperclips and a pencil sharpener and a smart watch, I think. He hasn't posted in a while though.

Which video did This Old Tony give that tip? I feel like such an ignorant TOT fan boy.

It would have involved a lot of jigs. I would have used a plywood jig on a drill press for the marble holder part. It would have been much harder to do.

Haha, my first thoughts! Proper German engineering!

@@JopieUTube are Germans really that good engineers? :thonkang:

yeah...but our accent is just the worst 😁

@@lulle2007200 Haha yea it's one of those true preconceptions. Audi, VW, bmw, Mercedes, Porsche, Bosch, Continental, etc.

where i work that's just standard...

😜

I will try to improve that!

lol

And since there’s no place to go

Parmesan is never forbidden

Dozer1642 - alright, you let us know how that turns out for you. Gl;hf

It felt just like powder snow. Only it wasn't cold ;)

Doesn't work on acrylic/plexi. You need to blow air hard so that the plastic won't melt.

@@JWAM If the 'plastic' (PMMA) start to melt , then the feed rate/speed is too low (or your tool isn't sharp enough anymore) . With pmma you need to create 'chips' instead of making powder. When the residue looks like powder your feed rate is also too low and your tool is losing sharpness unnecessarily fast.

He did a video on it, but I don't remember what it was called.

I have done that on my German channel. But I will repeat that in English soon!

Thanks Alex. I wish my German was better, but I’ll try watching that version.

Brian Park how do you anneal?

@@TheRainHarvester You place parts in oven and heat to at least 180F. You soak parts for a time that is a function of thickness, then cool at slow rate (also function of thickness). There is data on web by manufacturers concerning details, such as in link below on page 22. Tapped holes in acrylic are WAY BAD NEWS. I would drill through and use nylon lock nuts on backside, with washers/pads on both sides of the plastic. The reason for the locknuts is so they need not be tightened firmly to not loosen. Tightening hardware into acrylic is invitation to cracking! plexiglas-shop.com/pdfs/en/311-1%20Machining%20PLEXIGLAS®_en.pdf Long straight parts are best LIGHTLY clamped during the anneal to prevent warping (do test pieces first), but you must allow free airflow over part for the heating/cooling. Polycarbonate is much less picky about processing, and is less prone to crack. It is more flexible and may deform (although loads imposed in Marble Machine are low unless something jams.)

Oh cool to know! Although I am not the Video-creator, maybe you can explain if this would work. Could one simply put the whole piece in an oven and heat it up altogether? Or would the required heat for the polishing be too high and it would get deformed? On another note, could this also have been manufactured out of polycarbonate, like Makrolon? I have used Makrolon in the past for transparent Housing for a CNC since it is so resistant to damage and has really high impact capabilities. I think it is also used in riot shields for police et cetera

@@kniefi Usually, polycarbonate is used for all machine housing, custod glass for racing-cars because it's supposed to be unbreakable...I also offen used PETG for machines housing especially in my valley of "decolletage"it's more oil-resistant, polycarbonate is more for protecting against impact risks ( like riot shield as you said..especially against yellow jackets hahaha...) To be true, I've never ask myself if an oven can be good for finishing the polishing process...I think it won't work, as you said, heat will deform the piece... the heat must be very precise and very quick with oxy-acetylene torch...usually, like you should do for metal, we used to re-heat a thermoformed piece to destress the pmma...of course, it have to stay in a mold not deform. This pieces could be made with other plastics like polycarbonate or PETG.. you can "finish" or glue the edges with methyl-chloride or acetone... its not very good because it just melt the plastic...it's just good for thin edges and not transparent... For beautiful pieces like this, only PMMA will be the good material...when finished, it's more transparent than glass !

Would a diamond polished injection mold have too much sink and shrinkage for a part like this?

Acrylic screwdriver handles are dipped in acetone to make them shiny, then allowed to drip dry. Wouldn't that be the best technique?

"Never polish with a gas flame"... 2 sentences later... "Polish with an oxy-acetylene (aka gas) flam[e]" LOL

Got that extremely cheap. Its really a pleasure to work with!

Look here ;) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Z7g5ZodD7ng.html

No worry I dumped it directly into the next river so I won't contaminate my house with it.

@@AlexCNCen Well done! It will come back to you in one or two years as part of your fishy meal. :D

Ive found the absolute best way to get that "water clear" finish with zero touch-up is a hydrogen and oxygen mix flame. Any gas that will leave a soot, no matter how clean the flame looks, simply will never achieve the perfect quality of hydrogen/oxygen. Yes, a 3 to 5 step sand-paper and final buffing will get it nice but very labor intensive on machined contours like these parts are shaped. Literally one quick pass (it does take a little practice) and the parts would be perfect. Id say with a correct flame setting - those parts would take less than 20 seconds each to complete. Im very impressed with Alex's capabilities and attention to detail - a true craftsman and expert videographer as well.

@@mti7948 Weirdly, I have a couple of small hydrogen canisters on my welding bench… I can’t remember why, but I have them. That soot issue is why I’ve always been weirded out by hand-held torches being used in the kitchen… I can’t not think of it spoiling the flavour.

The milling machine is self build. I have planned a video where I show it in detail here on the English channel. There is already a German version available on my other channel (Alex CNC)

I did a finishing pass (6:57). But it was "hidden" a little bit with the fast forward. The machine is self designed and build. Controller is an Ethernet smoothstepper and Mach3.

Thats nothing special. Just normal cutting fluide mixed with water (1/10 mix ratio)

It definitely needs some friends to get out of the stuck situation 😂

A dust shoe would have been a great thing here. But normally I'm only machining aluminium and steel. There I can't really use a dust shoe. The cutting edge of the endmill was a little bit damaged. That's where the ribs come from. Best Alex