The opening shot had me thinking "oh boy some rotary table action!" then I literally got called out! 😂But seriously your mention means so much. Thank you! Edit: After watching I especially like your different approach to locating the parts on the RT.The in place fixture with the clamp nose and parallel was very clever. I'll need to remember that one
Thanks James. I am just about to start on my Hemmingway knurler. I was waiting for this episode! I modelled the entire assembly in Inventor so I can work in metric dimensions. Still imperial sized parts though. Sigh!
Re: 2:20 I love my Knipex parallel jaw pliers. Among other things I use them to press in tiny roll pins. Such as something you might find all over an obscure thing designed by Eugene Stoner, particularly in the gas block and bolt catch... 😜
Hi Clough. I made this some time ago on a 8 part video. I did it a little differently to how you have done it. It worked out pretty perfect. Also did the Z axis drive using a Bridgeport kit & modded to fit a British Tom Senior milling machine. Great video you have done. Some may wish to see the alternative way of doing it. Happy new year to you & your subscribers. P.S Just doing a series on making a Hemingway kits large bore steady rest. If you would give my channel a shout out it would help me grow at least a little Regards. Steve.
Couple of drops of WD-40 on the aluminium prevents aluminium sticking on most coatings I've been using. There is little to no smoking as well, I would highly recommend trying it. Great video!
Looking good. Soon you will be knurling with that tool and all of us viewers will drool over it. I like that word, the roundening reminds me of some of the liberties AVE takes with words. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
TiCN is the coating you want for steel and aluminum at the same time. There is no aluminum in the coating, so it does not gall up, but the carbon adds some extra hardness that keeps it good in steels.
I have Zirconium Nitride coated variable-flute end mills for aluminum, and they work great. When I was shopping for end mills, I wasn't contemplating trying to cut aluminum and steel at the same time. :)
happy new year james! loving the content, as always. im kinda starting a game of sorts in which i try to guess what your next big project is based on the tools you are getting and making. so far the surface grinder and the knurling tool dont make a whole lot of sense together. but i know you are up to something... the game is afoot :P blessings for you and your family.
I would love to see you do a tutorial on how to use Fusion 360. Your explanations in some of your video of Fusion 360 are very concise and I think you would be a great instructor.
He's done some F360 tutorials in the past, most often they're disguised as 3D Printing or electronic leadscrew tutorials 😉 But yes he's done several videos specifically on Fusion 360 over the past several years. Hope this helps, and yes they're quite good videos.
For setting up my rotab I have a plug that's closely fitted to the center counterbore (or the top of the Morse taper socket), and that's turned down to a fit collet at the top. I start with that in the spindle, move things until it's close to the rotab center, then press it into the rotab with the quill feed lever, allowing that action to move the rotab the last few thou. Only then do I clamp the rotab down and zero the DRO. No need to indicate it in. Which is exactly how you locate the parts. The arms are complex enough that they would be good candidates for your CNC. But I'd wager that more of us have rotabs that CNCs, so the instructional value of your method is appreciated. BTW If you make a fixture plate for the rotab so that you're freed from the limits of six T-slots, you'll really like it. BTW2 What do you have against beavers? (Maybe I'm just sensitive because I'm a native of the beaver state.) Oh, and Happy New Year to all.
I don't actually know why bastard files are named such, only that they are the flat ones and it's commonly best to use them forward only. That's all, folks - as far as I know, anyway! :)
Did you not show slotting the arms for the knurls? I scanned through the entire and didn’t find it. Wanted to know if you used an endmill or a slitting saw.
These are brilliant.. I made and have used the knurling tool for years and it has never failed to do the job. Apart from the sensitive drilling machine, this is probably my most used Hemingway tool.
Really nice work! I have this kit and have more or less finished redrawing the drawings! I have to watch this a couple of times to understand your set ups. Thanks!
Well Done!!! May I ask what size rotary table do you have . I need one and am looking at a few but cant decide on a size I have a PM833TV and yours and mine are similar in size I do believe. Thanks
There should be a link in the video description. It's a 10" Vertex. I think it's about the biggest table I'd want to have on a 9x35 mill, and at around 100lbs, I think it's about the max that most people would want to pick up and move around by hand.
Can you not prevent the problem with aluminum nitrite by useing wd40 spray to use as a colent/lube witch I have seen worked great on my carbide saw blade I used to cut alum soft.
At 6.55 minuites in you say the table is set at X 0 and offset in Y , but that cannot be correct, X would have to be offset to the radius of curve at least to start with.
There is a reason why things were produced by combining a lot of very simple parts. You really start to appreciate even 3 axis CNC milling when you make such a complicated device manually.
Definitely do not machine aluminum with that coating. It’s specifically meant for harder, tougher steels. Just get a couple of zirconium dioxide carbide bits for aluminum. You’d be surprised how well they wok. But again, don’t use them for steel. If you want the best compromise just buy everything with titanium dioxide coatings. Really, for this kind of shop work, exotic coatings aren’t advantageous. They come into effect at very high cutting speeds and heavier cuts. Not something a Bridgeport or clone is suited for. I’ll say though, that you do pretty well with this.
Hi James, in one of your episodes you introduced a deburring tool/micromotor. I've been looking through your videos for 2022 and have not been able to locate that video. Could you kindly let me know the make and model as I am very interested in purchasing such a tool. Keep up the good work, I look forward to very Saturday/Sunday for the next entertaining and informative episode. Thanks
Thanks for sharing ( Maybe don't use aluminum for a spacer ) Have a Happy New Year - I pray it's better then the last couple of years... Stay safe and well ....
Dear James, All the best wishes for 2023. I like seeing that you are approaching 100k mark. I hope you hit it by the end of this month 👍 I realy like your attention to deatail and presentation style. Thank you for doing it for us 👍
Hi James, it's strange, @InheritanceMachining is building the exact same knurler atm. It's astonishing, both your way of working are so similar, even some statements are alike... But nice work, as always!
Interesting. I saw he posted the first part of his build, but I haven't watched it yet. I think he said he was going to wait to watch mine until he was done so we could compare notes. It'll be interesting.
@@Clough42 Very interesting! it's nice to see some different brains doing the same tasks completely different but on the other hand some solutions are almost identical. But, as history has taught us so often: same problems lead to same solutions...
Very nice. I've been thinking about trying this project. It will mean I will need a rotary table (I currently use a dividing head for that type of work, but a rotary table would be better).
Nice job I reckon the finish is down to the materials if the kit comes from the UK it will be free cutting mild steel for sure plus nice sharp cutters help to keep up the good work I've got mine to do next lol lol ...
Regards your noise: remember that the end mill flutes are trying to lift the part while cutting. While it's steel, you're still getting some flex. The thicker piece obviously flexes less, so less noise and a better cut.
James - I just realised that your shop and Brandon's are very similar. His is inherited "older tech" whereas yours is all new and you're the first owner. How about a colab comparing capabilities? Your modern lathe with ELS compared to his vintage lathe, your PM mill vs his Bridgebort. You have 3D printing as a tool, he has...stuff in boxes we haven't seen. Just a thought.
@@kensherwin4544 - I have a box from my father's father, which has a label "Don't open until you're on Social Security." I have a few years yet before I qualify :)
Nice work James! Why did you cut so deep into the sacrificial aluminium plate? Scratching the surface could work also I think? Or was it a dull end of the cutter to do it this way? Thank you! Best, Job
I guess it looks pretty, but that does seem like a pretty gratuitous number of curves and different radii.i know smooth curves reduce stress concentrations but I'm sure the kit could have been designed easier. Though maybe that's missing the point, I guess part of the fun is testing yourself to see if you can make all those curves 😁
Actually, no. And I didn't do what I normally do and turn a crank the wrong direction and take a big bite out of something. However, next week, you'll see me scrap one of the other parts and have to start over. :)
Lol, just watched blomdihacks today and she said move a file opposite the arc to make a round part. Then you did the same thing today. Must be very common knowledge. Was new to me.
I think of it as 'climb filing', because the chip forming action is so similar. The file has less tendancy to dig in at some random point and make a flat spot.
Thank you for the time and effort to make these videos. I like you setups on the rotary table. If you want to see what I think are the best tips on the rotary, check out @joepie221. Not hard to tell that he has made a lot of parts on a rotary table.
