I spent 15 years working in a CNC shop dealing in tolerances of thousandths and 10,000ths, I'm looking to pick up this saw soon and this video was unexpectedly great!
That was a good review. Unlike other "reviewers" on RU-vid that open the box and start selling "It is amazing", Awsome", "the best tool ever" bla bla bla. Thank you Guru for the info.
Excellent job with this video....incredibly helpful! I can only imagine how many headaches will be avoided moving forward. Thank you more than words can capture.
Hello, I have had this Milwaukee saw for a few years and on the job today it was noisy and started cutting on and off. Found out the motor assembly was loose and was searching for some info on how to disassemble it. Your vid supplied all the answers to the breakdown of the saw as well as a great guide on how to tweak it on reassembly. Thanks for a quality revue. I will check back to your vids often.
You know you're doing something right when Coptool features your video. I'm a new subscriber too after watching your sander showdown, and mortise and tenon videos. Keep up the good work.
Hands down best review for this miter saw and that goes for your other miter saw reviews as well. Straight up no BS, Would like to see you do the Milwaukee m18 12" miter saw as well as I strongly consider your feedback! Good shit!
Guru, you produce some quality videos that have been sorely needed. Nice work! I have the Milwaukee Fuel 7 1/4” Miter Saw. I bought it factory refurbished in March through CPO Tools (CPO Milwaukee) and paid $299.00 for it as “tool only”. CPO is a very reputable on line tool retailer. After ordering the Saw was delivered within about a week. Free shipping for any purchase/purchases $49.00 and up. In addition no sales tax. When I received and opened the box I realized that they had sent me the kit vs tool only, as they included a new 5 amp battery and charger. It also included the Milwaukee 40 tooth blade, bag and clamp. When I removed the top foam layer I realized that they had sent me a brand new saw. It still had the factory foam packing around the Saw head and the zip tie holding it down. So I ended up with a killer deal! I haven’t used the Milwaukee blade yet. I paired the Saw up with a Diablo 60 tooth Ultra Finish Blade. I just finished cutting the finished crown for our new kitchen cabinets. The 45’s are all true, as are the 90’s. I used a General Crown Jig which worked out well. The only test I did prior to using the saw was to check the blade for square against the table. The one thing I don’t do is carry the Saw by the black handle on top or swing it around like you did during the opening. It looked cool, but I feel it could potentially lead to alignment issues. When carrying, I always use the handles that are built into each side of the Saw. I watched your review of the Metabo 7 1/4” Saw. It had a few features that the Milwaukee doesn’t have, but it’s definitely not worth more than twice the retail of the Milwaukee Miter Saw, nor more than 4X what I paid! I fact I bet the Milwaukee produces a better cut vs the Metabo. I saw how whacked out of alignment it was. It seemed that out if the box the Milwaukee had much tighter tolerances. After using both saws what’s your verdict as to which saw you would purchase, if you could only have one or the other?
Sweet deal! I agree about the black handle. When I pick one up, I plan on just removing it altogether. For such a light saw, the side handles are more than adequate. Have you used it with any of the HO batteries? Any boost in power?
The Handyman Carpenter, better late than never... Geez, sorry about the delay in replying. Yes, I’ve put a 6 amp HO battery on. Seems to give the motor a bit more punch. However, the 5 amp battery works well. I never run across a situation where I wish I has more power.
@@martylucas8557 The Milwaukee is a jobsite trim saw. The Metabo is a finish carpentry saw that can be used as the jobsite trim saw and a framing saw(it can cut up to a 2x12). The Metabo can also be used as a metal cutting saw long term, at 4000 rpm. It's much more precise, smooth, and accurate (which is true for most Metabo HPT/Hikoki, or Makita tools vs Milwaukee or DeWalt). The two saws are not really in the same league, while there is some crossover, it's apples and oranges. The Metabo can do what the Milwaukee can, but the Milwaukee can't do what the Metabo can, or what it's targeted for. Also, any saw with a vertical handgrip that's centered on the blade is going to give a better cut than a horizontal D-handle next to the blade. The force pushing on the blade of the horizontal D-handle is downward and to the left. The vertical grip pushes directly downward. It costs $1050 nowadays, and while still steep, it's made in Japan. The Milwaukee is made in China. The cost of manufacturing the Metabo is naturally much higher. Outside of the US, prices are much higher for power tools in general. Paying the equivalent of a thousand dollars for even a decent miter saw is the norm. Look at how much a Milwaukee miter costs in Australia for instance.
Finally, somebody mentions the crappy glides on the rails. I ordered three of the saws and sent all three of them back. I cannot believe Milwaukee puts out a product like this. It really aggravates me because I’ve invested heavily in Milwaukee.
This is next level testing right here. Appreciate it. I needed a cordless miter saw and bought the DW 7 1/4” and it was crap. Returned it. Might try this even though I’m already on the DW platform as well as Makita
@@thebuilditchannel8609 yeah the DW had a table that was really bad. I know how to true everything else but this had bad casting plus the miter lever was junk.
Just ordered this online from Home Depot because I got a smoking deal. I hope that when it arrives and I complete a great trim project with it, I can feel as pleased with myself as this guy did joking about not reading the manual multiple times. Good review though, I think it’s the first one I’ve seen where they disassemble it.
You have by far the best tool reviews I’ve seen on you tube. Very detailed and helpful information. Any chance you’d a review of Milwaukee’s 10” or 12” miter saw and Milwaukee’s table saw? A review on Dewalt’s FlexVolt miter saw and table saw??
Very helpful review, I just bought one and out of the box it was not square so I returned it. Hopefully the next one I get will be better but thanks for going over how to adjust it.
FYI - I just measured the base flatness on two saws just recently purchased- both were flat within .009", so it seems you either got unlucky with yours or they have improved the machining over time.
This test is only if you want to saw with precision, with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work). Tips and Test: Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS. (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed). Step-4. Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade. The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade. Step-5. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Angle Gaug) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing. Conclusion:how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing don't go for that (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
I'm so thankful that I humbled myself long enough to be educated by this highly insightful video. I'm only 4 yrs into my woodworking, but most of my tools are m18 /m12 so this was my first choice because I'm already on the platform and really like the red tools I have. Because of the points you made I realize that a miter saw is one tool that needs more fore thought than most. (In my humble opinion). Thanks again for the wonderful review. 👍🏾
Awesome video. Would love to see you work up a Makita XSL08. Also would it be possible to produce a series on how to perform these calibration tests and corrections? Thanks again!
I have this little saw and love it because it only needs to be trim carpentry accurate, but I Would love to know if you have a suggested method of how to tune and flatten the M18 table saw. Seeing how you might chose to calibrate or improve the rack and pinion fence adjustment would be interesting!
yes it cuts 45s don't know what he is talking about. I've had one for about a year only really been using it steady for the last few months on 10" base in a 100 year old home so every cut is different but so far I love this thing I don't think I would want to use it to make furniture as it is a slider. but for a punch list or someone doing PDIs or service work it is great
Your finetuning of mitersaws are aresome Justin! What is the best overall value for money mitersaw brand in your mind of view? Thanks for posting and hosting! 🤝
Great review, thank you. This is the first time I've learned anything from a tool review! Any chance you can do a review on the DeWalt DCS361 20V sliding miter saw?
Hi, Wow, that's a good video on this milwaukee 7 1/4" miter saw. I hope milwaukee gets a chance to see this video and improves that issue. For the price people have to spend it should be better set by the company. Thanks for the video
I wish I had 22 thousandths on the miter table mine is 40 on the left and 43 on the right. I can’t get one straight cut with this thing. Not sure what to do. Add/remove material? Or just get something else. Nice video by the way,thank you
I would get another saw and see if it’s better. No matter what saw you get it will need to be tuned up. I have a 3 part series on my channel showing how to tune up your saw!! Thanks for watching!!😁👍🏻
@@thebuilditchannel8609 thank you for the response I’ll check them out. And 2 quick questions 1)do you plan on making more videos in the future? 2) was the blade on your Milwaukee center with the kerf plate slot? Mine is just touching the left hand side. And even if you don’t make more videos I’ll still throw you a subscribe. Thank you for your time.
@@jumper233 Thank you, I appreciate it!! I definitely will be making more videos on woodworking and Building/Construction. I don’t remember on that saw as I returned it but the blade is usually in the middle. The throat plate might need to be adjusted.
Thank you!! For a good saw that will last and get the job done, I would say Dewalt. No matter what saw you use it will need to be tuned up first if you want top quality from it!
@@thebuilditchannel8609 thanks for the reply! I had a dewalt saw I sold for the kapex. Wow, was the kapex off with table and wing flatness, co planer, upper fences not square by a long shot. I was so mad I sent it back. I’ll give dewalt another go.
You know when I do a 45 cut on the left it’s good but then when I do it on the right side of the blade it’s bad. So I have to adjust the fence? And where do I buy those calibrating sticks at
Great review, thank you. I know you said the saw is rated for the normal output smaller amp. hour batteries, but have you had the chance to see if the higher output batteries affect the saws overall performance in a positive way at all? Like the 9and 12ah batteries have great effects on some of the pre higher power output battery tools has had some positive effects from them due to all of needed the extra power and runtime. For example - The angle grinder etc... So have you tried the higher amped, higher output batteries in the saw? And if so, what was your outcome? Cheers, Col.
@@thebuilditchannel8609 They do alot more than that, you need to look into them. I bought the 12AH 'HIGH OUTPUT' battery about a month ago, and I've noticed a nice difference going from the standard 5AH to the High Output 12AH battery. The battery internals is even different. For example, the 5AH battery is made up of 18650 LiPo batteries in series and parallel to make the 18V @ 5AH and the 'H/O' 12AH is made up of 21700. The numbers refer only to the size of the cell: 18650s measure 18mm by 85mm and 21700 cells measures 21mm by 70 mm. The 21700 cells are much newer to market and many manufacturers have begun using them to help power larger and more powerful tools. That also generally means that the battery packs will be slightly larger than packs with the older 18650 cells. Check them out for yourself. Milwaukee is great at keeping their batteries to work in all of their 18 or 12volt lineup, but they do have different battery technologies that benefit different tools in different ways if people choose to do so...
It would be helpful if you added links to the tools you used in calibrating the saw. I have my 2 year old Dewalt 12" miter saw and would really like to get it dialed in.
Very xlent review. I am not a fan of 71/4 chop boxes, and would love to find an 8 1/4 miter saw thats worthy. They are still very portable with just the right on the fly cary-in copacity. Have you tested any? Recommend one?
Hello Justin brilliant video excellent technical info on the saw your obliviously a very clever man keep up the great work!! I have a question for you I was looking to buy this saw because I use the corded ms 305 Milwaukee saw I've had it for nearly ten years now and for the work no do now it's too big to loud and was looking for something smaller so the 7 1/4 is what I'm thinking because in Scotland we use 95mm x16 mm base board or as we call skirting board what I was wondering is, is I possible you could try cutting a piece of wood this size standing vertical and see if the saw would cut it? I'm sure it would cut 10mm off and end of a board coming from the left hand side because the motors on the right but wither it would cut the length in half is another story, I know it's a big ask but if the next time you pull the saw out could you possibly try and see if it could cut this size of timber standing vertically I would be very much appreciated because a saw of this size would make an old man's life "and back" a bit easier thanks again and keep up the excellent reviews 👏🏻👍🏻
The Kapex, but I do feel it’s over priced. Dewalt is a good saw. All saws need to be tuned up first and I have a 3 part series on exactly how to do that!!
Wow what an amazing review. This guy is awesome. Why am I just finding it now. Can someone tell me why a thin blade is bad? I would I thought it was good. Can anyone recommend a good blade please.
I wonder if there machining differences between saws (kind of like Makitas 36v) mine was awesome, I do agree the slide was not as smooth but I cut stars n grafevwork all day with it, o would light be to check mine compared to this one but as you know it was stolen so that’s not happening 😔. Nonetheless always enjoy your detailed videos bossman 👊🏽
Sounds like this saw is good for some punch list stuff or just general work not requiring perfect cuts. Light weight makes it a grab and go saw for quick get in get out stuff. Dewalt is still king for me.
Now that was brilliant, nearly all tools you buy these days need to be adjusted to make them run true and it's great to see just how far out things can be. I would like to see how this thing would perform on extruded aluminum ( with correct blade of course)
Bengt Hokanson, ha! Wouldn’t it be funny if the Milwaukee 7 1/4” Miter had tighter tolerances and received a better review than the Kapex? Then we’d have to use the Milwaukee as the baseline...
@@thebuilditchannel8609 - Ditto on reviewing the Dewalt 7 1/4. It is older than most, but still rated surprisingly well on most reviews - looking at USER feedback - despite being single bevel and not brushless. The readability of the LARGE bevel gauge (especially important when there are no intermediate bevel steps for the common crown cuts on the flat) on the Dewalt seems to be key relative to the tiny miter gauge of the Milwaukee. (Note: I do not own either saw). In addition, did you find the Milwaukee noisy (esp the brake - i.e. box of rocks sound) as many owners seem to note? Finally, GREAT review - your emphasis on ACCURACY and usability really highlights what separates the great tools from the chaff.
How would you even be able to cut if the blade is out of parallel 11 thousands? If blade was that much out of parallel the cuts should burn and bind all the time
I have this saw and noticed an odd thing. I tightened the slide lock and _FELT_ the saw head move up. There are only 3 linear bearings... and the slide lock screw is on the side with just one. If they were going to cheap out and use just 3, they should have put the slide lock screw _BETWEEN_ the two bearings on the right side. As it is when you tighten the screw, the single front bearing acts as a fulcrum so the sawhead is _'levered up'..._ twisting the rails. So it might be worth checking plunge-square _with & without_ the screw tightened. And for the life of me... I cannot understand why they would not include a depth stop for trenching. SMH.
fancy, no they’re not.. lol! They manufacture quality tools. You definitely get worth what paid for from their tools. What brand is not throwaway to you or are you just a troll that’s trolling?
Colin Campbell, it’s a nice saw. It’s as good, if not better than the Metabo! I own one, so I-can tell you first hand that it’s a powerhouse. It produces a beautiful cut. It does a very nice job from cutting 2x’s to fine trim work (crown, baseboard), extruded aluminum, etc...
For a job site saw cutting painted trim I think it’s more than good enough. If you are making furniture with thousands dollars worth of figured wood I doubt a cordless job site saw would a first choice. My only concern is did you get a good saw or a bad one? Manufacturing tolerances on those things must not be high.
@@suzesiviter6083 miter/circular saw is NOT a variable speed device so there is no pwm... the black immersed circuitry you see is for current limiting/shut off in case of binding... you can clearly see the current sensing resistors on the outside due to the need for heat dissipation...
@@XChaoticComposerX Fixed speed brushless motors still use PWM. The Milwaukee FUEL system also gauges loading and compensates with increased pulse width to maintain a constant speed. the black immersed circuitry is called potting compound-an epoxy mix. I haven't got the time to be explaining how a brushless motor works fully, but you have 3 phases at 120 degrees difference, that is they require 3 alternating voltages. There is no external sense resistor on the Milwaukee, I know this because I have had them apart to repair. All sensing in these units is done on the control board directly from the motor. PWM wastes negligible power hence no heatsink or very small heatsinking on output devices is required.
@@suzesiviter6083 a cheap $5 "3-wire" pc cooling fan has a brushLESS motor inside. so a brushLESS motor can run at OPEN LOOP. meaning NO variable speed is required. this proves that brushLESS motor does NOT need PWM. it is like a CIRCULAR coil gun.
@@suzesiviter6083 text-book definition of PWM is changing the DUTY CYCLE of a pulse with a FIXED PERIOD. like 1% D.C. to 99% D.C. good examples for PWM signals are... class D amplifier at the output before the inductor(LPF)...Arduino output signals... BUT here... is the "PERIOD" (TIME BASE) changing here at a motor coil? what is the period for 1rpm. and what is the period for 10rpm?
The miter is good but Milwaukee need to start using their head, charging so much for their products and they are far from optimum. The turning the miter angel is a little hard and locking the angle in place is harder than necessary. But anyway 4 stars I'll give it.
Wondering does anyone really make the perfect sliding mitre saw? I gave up on my Makita ls1019 and jumped to DeWalt dw717. I'm sure that has it's flaws too but I haven't really gone into detail on it.
@@thebuilditchannel8609 ha. I kept telling Makita about their ls1019 and they just kept sending me replacements with repeated faults. I don't know if I was just in a minority of duff units or it's maybe they are happy to sell thousands and tollerate a percentage of returns.
Most miter saws go beyond 45 degrees, in this case both sides go 3 degrees past. If you understand angles and specifically the cut angle of the piece then you know that 42 on the scale leaves a 48 degree cut. Using the proper cut angle the saw will cut 90 to 42 degrees or a combined angle of 180 to 84 degrees. No where in the video do I say 45 is 42!!
