Really good job on this fix ! I encountered the same problem with the GEN 3 M18 FPD 2 (I ear a little "click" when I press the trigger, except the led didn't light on). I was quite disapointed that the electronic in the handle is way different than this one (heatsink, double PCB glued and overprotected). Even after succeeded in removing the plastic and most of the glue, i c'an"t identify where the "MOFSETs" described here are. The replacement part is as expensive as a new drill.
This exact thing happened to my 2804-20 drill today, hear a little clicking sound but no light comes on. Sending it in for warranty, hopefully they will repair it.
There are 6 of them, and while testing in the circuit isn't quite the same, if you see a short between two pins on just one of the 6, that's prolly the bad one :)
I was working on the transmission of my fuel drill, and this video was very helpful (I didn't record the orientation of the speed control wire). I'm curious, that is a very slick looking electric screwdriver, do you have a link or name of the manufacturer? (edit: looks like a ToolPAC ES120)
eu tenho uma igual... estou esperando chegar da assitencia... recusei o reparo.. ficou 1000 reais na autorizada.. é o mesmo defeito do video. vou tentar reparar por aqui mesmo
Thank you for your vid sir, My well loved drill died yesterday under load and exhibits identical symptoms. MOSFETs are cheap and I'll remove mine and test them, see if that's what failed. These are awesome drills and super heavy duty, so I would really like to fix mine, and it looks like the kind of repair I'm familiar with. Thanks
Will this mofset part work on the regular hammer drill (not fuel). My coworker was drilling with mine and I think he was forcing it when it got caught on something and it stopped spinning. Led still turns on
I really wish you would do this again and take the time to speak and explain what you're doing. My drill has the EXACT same problem but I can't figure out what you're doing
Ok... I watched again and slowed the speed down to 50%. I now understand what you're doing. One question remains for me though... how do you know which one of the 6 mosfets are bad? Thank you!
It's a rabbit hole to start talking about, and everyone is starting from a different level of knowledge, and I can really only speak on one level at a time, so even if I did explain it, I'd miss the mark on the majority of the audience. The short version is, a mosfet shorted. At a minimum, you need 6 to drive a bldc motor. They turn on and off in a sequence called 6-step control as the motor spins. I didn't have 6, I had 5, so the sequence was broken. Shorted mosfet is fairly simple to test. If there's continuity across all the pins, it's busted. On the new one, i was just playing with the meter showing how a positive voltage to the gate turns it and allows current to flow from the drain to the source. I watch Mr. Carlson's Lab sometimes, and I usually have no idea what he's talking about, and he's a better teacher than me, so I dunno. Maybe I'll ramble during the video next time and see how it goes.
@@maynardr6 Thank you so much, I understand what you're teaching me and I'm confident that I'll be able to fix it, if indeed I do have 1 or more mosfets bad. Thank you again, I'm subscribing to your channel now.
They're in there for certain. Might be differently packaged. There will be 6 of them. They could be flat surface mount ICs soldered down on their "backs" with 2 pins and little nub of a pin or they could even be 8 pin surface mount packages too.
excuse me sir .. I have a problem in my hammer drill brushless FPD, if the battery is installed the first time the equipment can rotate but if it's left for a while the equipment can't operate anymore, maybe you can provide a solution .. thanks
Hi, my Milwaukee 2604-20 fuel drill stopped working yesterday. When I pressed the trigger, the light came on, but the drill did not spin. I could hear a click at the motor at the beginning of my pressing the trigger. The symptom sounded the same as yours. I opened the housing, the shapes of the MOSFETs looked OK : no burn, no bulge. I knew you only changed one MOSFET and got the drill alive. How did you find that one was not working? For my drill, can I check the MOSFETs on board? Or, I try to replace all of them? Can you offer some advice? Thanks.
other things in the circuit will interfere with absolute readings, but you can take relative resistance measurements between the same pins on all the mosfets. Write them down, and maybe something will jump out at you. They will likely not appear damaged even if they are. You may need to remove the coating with alcohol and a toothbrush to get good contact with the pins. Desoldering things can be tricky, and much harder without the proper tools/materials. Electronics are usually cheaper the more you buy, so buy like 10, and you can cut the leads on them instead of desoldering the whole thing at once. Clean the holes with solder braid (mg chemical brand is good). Before soldering them, screw them all up to the heatsink and install as a single unit or nothing will ever line up.
@@maynardr6 Thanks, bro. You gave me a very detailed explanation. I will challenge the task. Hopefully, I can fix it. I will come back with the result when I am done. Thank you for your suggestions.
Hi! I am back. I have fixed the drill by replacing one of the MOSFETs. I checked the resistance among all the pins of MOSFETs as per @Maynardr6's recommendation. I found the readings on one MOSFET were quite different from the others. So, I cut it off. It was shorted. Today, I received new MOSFETs I bought from eBay, and I installed one on the board. The drill came back to life. Thank @maynard6 for making this Video and offering the advice.
@@hkiceca awww yeah mine did this last night.... i have it pulled apart in front of me thinking i got some steel chips in the brushless motor... but mine has the same symptom - click... and nada. this should do the trick
Just one. It was clearly shorted. If you have 0 ohms between all the pins of a mosfet, it's toast. Also, I didn't explain it well, but you can turn mosfets on and off out of circuit with the multimeter and they stay that way which is what I was doing at 1:02
@@-WondersofCreation put meter in continuity check mode. Check continuity from each 1 to 2, 2 to 3, then 1 to 3. If it beeps every time, good chance it’s smoked, but pull it out and test again. Similarly for any component that has duplicate arrangements on a board. You can take relative measurements that should be the same and the one that’s different is suspect.
Hi, I have 02 model2804-20 have the same problems, I heard tic tic like the begin your video but all around circut is have glue. How Can I found mosfet and fix? thank your video
IRLB3034PBF on ebay. You need a solvent for the conformal coating on the board. I think I used sopropyl alcohol or acetone (I don't remember), and swabs.
Hi can you help me on my m18 hammer drill 2804-20 (Gen2) it suddenly stop working at first I thought it was just battery but I tried to use my other m18 battery and still not working.. I have sa same issue on your video just a clicking sound but no lights are turning on. Remember if you remove the battery and put it back in lights will turn on but mine it does not. Please help I'm in philippines and we don't have service center here for milwaukee.
This is an excellent guide and diagnosis. My Milwaukee 2702-20 drill is exhibiting the same symptoms, but unfortunately the transistors are integrated under a copper heatsink and not replaceable.
Hi I have a 2604 (M18 Fuel Gen1) that over heats and cuts out. What might need replacing? Also how could I use a power supply to test the drill? Do I need to connect the J1 and J2 to anything? Just using the positive and neutra justl turns the light on. Cheers
SnifterRoux it could be so many things. Did you notice a marked decline or overheating becoming worse over time. I’ve overheated the sawall straight out of the box, but I was just over working it. The heat sink is passive, so no fan to go bad. Can you see any discoloration on the windings? Could be a slightly shorter winding. Could be the motor is running. Since it’s frameless, the drill body is responsible for keeping everything in line and what not. I dunno much really without handling it.
@@maynardr6 A mate gave me the drill so I am not sure if it gradually got worse. I didn't notice any discoloration and I have no doubts that the body is keeping everything in line. Thanks for that :)
Hello, i have Milwaukee M18 BPD-0, 18V. Both stopped working after 2 years of service for no reason, i opened them up and both had burned mosfet the upper one. I ordered the same ones, replaced them and still nothing, they are not turning, only light comes on. Any ideas? :/
Maynard,I have problem with 2804-20 or europian version is FPD2.Somtimes works when push the trigger,sometimes doesn't work.BUТ,if move reverse or mechanical rotor by hand-the drill is working.What is the problem-mosfet ot sensor of Hall? If need to open plastic I think to cut down plastic and then clear the silicone.What you suppose is the problem? Can I open safe the plastic basin down with cutting?Thanks and sorry my english.
In addition-when I push the trigger its doesnt work-I hear noise.When I rotate the propeler by screwdriver /the trigger is push/ and drill is working!!!
I have a 2804-20 that never worked quite right, very weak, even when it was new. But, it was under warranty, so I sent it in, and they sent it back in 4 days working perfectly. There may have been a newer revision of the control board or something. In general hall sensors are pretty reliable. My best guess is it's something on the control board.
Does somebody has an idea what the problem could be: when the work load is to high (drill a hole in concrete) the machine stops and all the 5 LEDs start flashing???
@@m.k.6227 does it matter about the other numbers on the mosfet not matching as i cant find any the exact same eg the "218P", "OU" and "71" that are printed on the mosfets on my drill?
Anyone know about the pin outs on the m18 battery? you get a voltage between the two inner pins of 3.2v, however my impact sometimes stops working and then I check the inner pins and they are at 0v, i can reset the battery by plugging it into my drill to bring them back up to 3.2v then it works again, so the impact must detect a fault and tell the battery to disconnect the pins?
I just start with what I know I should see. Lot easier with an oscilloscope. For instance, you should see the hall sensor outputs when you spin the motor, or you can find the crystal oscillator for the ic and see if that has a clock signal. Look for voltage regulators and check their output and see if it's within reason. Does the light come on when you push the trigger? Check the trigger with a volt meter and see if it's doin stuff.
@@maynardr6 I haven't mentioned, I have M18 cag125x. It's angle grinder, similar build as yours. Can I test it without permanent magnet inside coil? It should create magnetic field when i turn it on, right?
Yeah Milwaukee has really gone down hill. To much money for these things to break down this way so soon. I have this happen with other Milwaukee drills. Time to buy something else. My ryobis are older and still going and my new ryobi is the same as my brushless Milwaukee gets more abuse and use and still never fails me and I paid alot let for the ryobis
This is the only milwaukee tool I've ever broken, and it was because I put an 8" hole saw on it in a pinch. Your ryobi wouldn't handle what I've put that drill through.
The light doesn't even come on with mine.... dafuq.... It's only a year old and has stayed in its box when not in use ... tried 3 different batteries, nothing, all work in other tools.
I've only used the warranty process once, but it was very easy, and they had my drill back to me in less than a week working perfectly. If it's only a year old, definitely get them to fix it. It's either a bad trigger, loose wire, or faulty board.
Hello guys before you try to repair your milwakee drill please open it. In my case (european version) the handle part is full of something like glue and the circuit board is indide. I wasn't able to remove the glue without damaging the circuit board. Because of this it was impossible to replace the mosfet..
Best bet is ebay, but it might be difficult to find. It's worth the few dollars I spent if you like to tinker, but any place that sell the pcb assembly new is gonna be like $50 I bet, not worth the effort for a $100 drill.
If this excellent video did not help you, then you are just out of your league. Recognising this soon, and accepting the reality will save you much frustration henceforth. You really will feel better, and there are many like you in the world, so please pass it along for a better society.
