If you are going to solder wire to a nickel strip piece, I’ve found it’s best for me to do so before I spot weld it to the battery, that way I’m not having to heat battery at all along with the strip.
Aggh! Its such a pain to get the cells out of these holders! They now use lots of glue to hold them in. I had to take a pack apart recently as It took a bath and wanted to prevent them from rusting. Had to cut the case to get them out. Thankfully managed to save the pack.
Could you do a video on installing a balancer on a m12 battery? Your videos on the m18 helped me fixed my batteries. But on the m12 ( specifically 6.0mah) i have trouble finding where to solder the balancer...thanks in advance
Was about to say first battery picture was bad... if thats what actually comes in it. Makes me wonder for the drill/impact/hackzall will all push 30+ amps.
Something is regulating the battery discharge current. Might be the pcb, might be the motor driver/ speed controller within the tool. Having a higher current capable battery is simply going to help with heat and voltage sag
Ah is a measure of capacity not Max discharge current, that's just the current if the battery and it's a lot higher than 1.4 or 3 amps. Ie 1.4 ah is 1.4 hours@1amp.
So the temp sensor is on the pcb...? On my bosch 12v pack, there is a small probe going down between the cells, and no balancing wires (don't know if the cells themselves have a voltage cutoff).
The ceĺl themselves do not have any protection. The thermsistor is under board, connected to PCB via wire. There is no true balancing in a pack. Tools and charger are there for temp control and voltage limits.
Do you know what gauge wire are the main leads? Bought a kit off eBay for diy, but the leads are 18AWG, not sure if they can handle the high current output.
For a short run that will be fine. Resistance is calculated by the length and the gauge. If it's only say 6 inches long it can carry more current than normal.
Hi so I did a rebuild on one of Milwaukees M18 12.0HD batteries because it up and quit working and wasnt even that old. It was just dead and when I went to recharged it it was flashing green and red on the charger. So I ordered 15 new samsung battery cells, same as the ones that where in their, then went to town spot welding new tabs on and putting everything back together. Now a couple connections came off of the cercuit board so I soldered them back on. Once everything was put back together I pressed the battery guage button and nothing lit up. I put it on the charger and the green light lit up and said it was fully charged. Now heres the thing I dont get, I plugged it into a tool and it lights up all the indicators but wont run the tool. I tested everything with a volt meter and the cells are each saying 3.441 consistently, and the battery pack itself is reading 17.22 volts. Im stumped. Can you please help me?
If your charger is flashing green and red, try unplugging it. Obvious, but it wasn't the first thing I tried, but it was the last. The Milwaukee Fuel system is more complex than dumb chargers.
and where can we buy the welding machine,not everyone has one at home,and add the cost of long strip of nickel strip that you only have to use 2 inch of it,roll of heat resistance tape that you only used a foot of it,and those gaskets,where is the saving? don't forget the batteries too why don't you put the link for each one so can find out how much it cost?
like that i give some distance between them about 0.4mm, the factory insulation didn't give you any serious protection, they are melting at low temperatures and easily can cutted by single hit, and results shorting the batteries.. kapton tape can give more serious protection, can hold at high temperatures and they have more strength..
No. I have tried. Soldering onto the battery cell will make it leak and just using tape/epoxy to hold the wire on is very bad as it can short out or cause high resistance. I have tested both and both have happened!
There are videos here on RU-vid that show you how to use parts from an old microwave to make a spot welder to use on these batteries. I cannot vouch for them but there are a number of videos that seem to show them working just fine.
Wish you went slower. I'm building one from scratch w/o the original bat but a kit from alie with no instructions. I used legit new Samsung inr18650-25r cells from 18650 battery store
In my opinion, not much. The Molicel is a good cell, and less $$. Sony makes a good cell, I don't use them because of cost. I'll go Samsung, Molicel, EVE, LG...
Yeah, that's never coming out again! You should take some of the money you saved on not buying a new battery and invest in a new soldering iron. That has to be the worst looking iron I have ever seen in my life.
good video. Turn the sound off and you won't go crazy listening to repetitive music over and over and over and over. Would have been nice to see at the end the charger actually turn the light green once fully charged or does it not ever turn green since this is an altered device now. It would be helpful to know that.
And this is why these batteries are so expensive, even if they are made in China using slave labor and they are...those uighurs in the concentration camps in China are making these ... imagine the costs if they had to pay honest labor
It's not that big of deal. Pure nickel is cheap, you aren't buying cheap Chinese junk and your paying less money. I have a little $70.00 Seesii 10000mAh , 99 gear spot welder. No more 3Ah packs, they are all 5Ah packs. No more 12Ah packs, use the new Samsung 50e 21700 and you have 15Ah at a very reasonable price. I've rebuilt 8 of my packs and maybe 25 other packs for people. Everything from NiCD 19.2V Craftsman, Dewalt, Black and Decker, Mikita, Ryobi and Snap On.
This is a modification failure, only 10.6V after replacing the batteries, but the tool gauge shows only two bar full and charger refuses to charge it up. The circuit broad has protection to prevent you use higher ampere batteries. Let's buy the knock off batteries rather than put high quality lithium batteries into the old shell. Not worthy at all.
What are you talking about? 1) 10.6V is right in between charged (≈12.6 V) and discharged (≈9 V), so 2/4 bars are right for ≈45% charge. edit: In the video it actually showed 10.91V (at 14:55), which would equal more to a ≈50% charge, for which 2/4 bars are still correct. 2) He only put the battery into the original charger to show it is charging (I don't know where you see the charger is refusing to charge it; both red and green LED would have to be blinking), and then into the tool to show the battery works. I've repaired 2 Ah M12 battery myself and there are no issues with using higher mAh spec 18650s than the original, and when the original has dead cells, why the hell would I be buying aftermarket knockoff to do a rebuild?
When he soldered the replacement batteries, they were only half charged. That is how they are shipped for long-term storage. If you store them fully charged, then the chemistry degrades and shortens overall lifespan at a faster rate Also he used very good quality replacement cells Sony VTC6 High capacity and high continuous discharge current The continuous red light shows it is charging ok Green is Finished charging Flashing Red is Error 10.6 Volts is the nominal median voltage that the cells are stored or shipped at. 3 x 4.2V = 12.6V = Full
