I was gonna say that reminds me of what disney was reported as doing with a bunch of their “Imagineers”. Had them train new lower paid employees then replaced the old guys with the same newly trained lower paid employees. 😑
@@Vault57 Same thing happened to a friend working for the BBC. He was a freelance video editor, they had him train some new people who they then took on as full time staff.
The lathe is the only machine in the shop that can duplicate itself. Therefore it created a child, not a replacement. Thus far I have yet to meet anyone that complains about making children. Looking after them perhaps, but never making them.
@@jacobpoucher Yeah but compare his viewership to yours and where are you? Plus probably makes more from Patreon than a lot of us put together and he makes it doing what he wants. So, my kind of dumb. Back to work.
The HSS tooling just needs some rake and clearance angles ground into the tool. A bit of side rake and front clearance and it would be cutting that brass beautifully. The lathe is a work of art and your videos are amazing.
does it need to be held closer to the post? I assume that if it is sticking out too far it would have more leverage over the post and introduce chattering that way, particularly if the post itself isn't super rigid.
@@mattrickard3716 With brass, the stickout is fine since it's so easy to machine. Shawn is correct though, this HSS is basically a blank with no relief at all. May as well put a flathead screwdriver in the tool holder. Just 2 minutes on a grinding wheel would have this turning metal like a dream.
I'm sorry I'm seeing this 2 years later. I'd say the chatter at 20:01 is happening because your spindle is unsupported close to the chuck. This unsupported distance works like a lever on the headstock, which is wood and therefore is quite flexible. This lathe can be fixed, and overall it is wonderful to see and to watch you make it.
A lovely project. I do agree with Dude, the chuck is too far out from your headstock bearing. Rigidity is key in a lathe and that space allows for deflection. So your lovely gold nuts need to be on the backside of the headstock and the bearing needs to be enlarged so that the collet needs to be mostly inside that bearning. This would also then allow you to run a tube for the spindle, allowing for through parts in the headstock. So with all that said, I love the build. It's interesting to watch your thought processes.
Can we all take a moment to appreciate he hand-machined a mounting bracket with like countersink holes and a bunch of other holes and they all lined up perfectly?
the 4.4 and 4.8 represents steel properties. The first number represents tensile strength in 100N/mm^2, 400N/mm^2 in your case. The first and the second number multiplied gives you the yield limit in 10N/mm^2, in your case 4*4*10N/mm^2 or 160N/mm^2 and 4*8*10N/mm^2 or 320N/mm^2. Usual grades are 6.6, 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9. 4.4 is really soft.
Or you could say the second number is the yield limit in 10% of the tensile strenght. In engineering class you get told to use only 8.8 or higher, but to be careful with 10.9 and 12.9, because they get brittle very easy due to hydrogen embrittlement. (aka don't use them where it is damp/outdoors without protection)
I was feeling a little sad that clickspring wasn't posting any new material anymore, and then I found Uri Tuchman. I am positively enamoured by this guy.
@@jeremiahbrown6456 G'day , Chris has been preparing a research paper on a discovery he made with the Antikythera Mechanism. It's been a very involved and protracted exercise, but once over, he intends to get back to the videos we all know and love; he has a new AM video in the pipeline. He hasn't gone full sellout as he often hasn't been taking the Patreon membership fees because he's not been able to make videos due to the above paper. Cheers
What a gifted man. I don't know what Uri does for a living but if I had a business that required the skill of an artist and craftsman I would make sure he works with my team. Pleasure to watch.
Everytime I watch your videos, I look at my shop, and realize I am completely underutilizing my tool set... you do far more than me with, far less. Love your work.
Anybody can be a genius, but it's a select few who are geniuses and talented engineers, and even fewer geniuses that are engineers and talented enough to build their vision. You my friend are surely all three.
Sure. It's not precise to a thousanth the first time you ever try it. Whatever. JUST LOOK AT THAT BEAUTIFUL THING!!! It's honestly the sexiest lathe I've ever seen. Every handle is hand turned, every piece of wood hand carved. It's truly amazing. I could tell that you weren't immediately happy with it, and I can see why. It doesn't create a glass smooth surface finish. But you hand made a lathe. That's amazing. Be proud
Thanks Uri! Great video as always and appreciate the editing to keep things moving quickly. I think many would consider the actual construction work (cutting, carving, planing, etc.) all quite therapeutic and relaxing to watch so you may want to consider leaving that in for a longer video!
Dear Uri, the lovely brass nuts you put on the headstock are called “acorn nuts” for obvious reasons. Magnificent work. The chattering when using your cutting tool is that the entire width is rubbing on your material. If you grind some side relief, ie right side of your cutting edge, the cutting will become smoother and from one point, the front left corner of your cutter. I can’t see from my camera view but the same problem and solution may be happening in the vertical plane. Cheers.
And it would have held up a lot better if he pulled the tool in tighter, and reduced the stickout of the work. Plus grinding the hss to give relief angles would make a lot of difference.
You have truly been blessed with excellent skills. I am just astounded by how you can turn out those gorgeous brass handle pieces free handed. Your wood working skills are also quite amazing. Your eye for detail is superb and I love the little hand made hand planes. Bravo sir, very nice build. Btw, I still say that you would make an unforgettable Evil Genius in a Bond movie. You are quite the character.
I really admire that you include your mistakes in the videos. It helps the NORMAL fabricators out here feel better knowing that even a master craftsman can turn out the odd p.o.s. Remaking the little brass handle was good because it also shows us not to be simply happy with whatever shit we put out - but rather to persevere and shoot for the next level.
I love the retro-future aesthetic of wood and brass mixed with modern bearings and plate. I also like that you left in the mistakes (like the misdrilled holes) without overdoing it for effect. It lets people who are just starting out forgive themselves and see how to work around them.
Absolutely forgot anything about making a lathe. I was just mesmerized, fascinated, enchanted by your use of hand tools fabricating anything and everything and don't get me started on those always perfectly straight saw cuts. You use a chisel better than I can use a router. Wow, wow, wow and wow again!!! Well done my friend.
Well done!. You worked so hard for it, and so the result simply reflects that from any angle. It looks great. If you want it to be stronger, there is some "golden ratio" between spindle's height and bed's width that you should investigate. Also, I'd go for two tapered roller bearings, back to back, instead of those you used. These are pretty inexpensive, and easy to come by in about any size. There also exist single-piece bearings that have two of these in different configurations (including mixed with deep-groove ball bearings), that are produced for wheel hubs (motorbikes, cars, trucks, etc). This way you'd only need to worry about fitting a cylinder in wood, and fix it so that it doesn't move. Another option is to use two angular-contact ball bearings, again, back to back. These even come with pretty narrow races (a lot of ID for a given OD), and unlike tapered roller bearings alone, these come sealed with rubber or metal, and greased for lifetime. For a more DYI thing, you can also do your own bearing, by mimicking the ones used in bycicles' hubs (the ones commonly seen in front wheels). All the best!
Работа с деревом - прекрасно! Работа с металлом - надо поучить таблицы по обработке металлов резанием. Бронзу можно обрабатывать до 1500 оборотов/мин, получается очень хорошая поверхность. Один из любителей стоить станки придумал использовать редуктор от углошлифовальной машинки для переноса рукоятки продольного привода на переднюю часть станка, но сделал это тоже далеко справа. Сем редуктор надо ставить в районе патрона, возможно сдвинув один рельс вправо, так будут обе рукоятки рядом и будет удобнее крутить их, особенно вытачивая шар. Люфт каретки с резцом можно попробовать выбрать перекосом одного подшипника, расточив крепежные отверстия.
The lathe came out beautiful, and very functional. A work of art to help you create works of art. P.S. About the wrong size bolt. I can't do a project, no matter how small, without making at least 2 trips to the store. Cheers
or rather it refers to the quality of the steel the bolt is made of. Higher is better and a normal high quality bolt like the ones used in construction is 8.8.
Yes, 4.6 means it's made of a soft ish grade of cheese. 4.8 is marginally harder, thus unsuitable for spreading on bread. I prefer my sandwich fillings to be 8.8 at a minimum, preferably 10.8 for that high-tensile texture.
@@minihak Strength class: 5.8, 8.8, 10.9, etc., in which the first digit multiplied by 100 indicates the maximum load on the thread. For example, according to marking 8.8, it should be understood that this fastener has a tensile strength of 800 MPa or 80 kg / mm2 The second figure indicates the ratio of the yield strength to the size of the tensile strength, increased by 10 times.
I just can’t come up with the right words to say how impressed I am with your skills, patients, abilities, determination for perfection, insight, error solving skills, intelligence, modesty, humor, and just an all around good fellow. My hat is off to your Sir, you rock. I enjoy your videos immensely and pray that God blesses you and your family your work and your way of life for a very long time to come. I hope you have a son or daughter that gets to grow up under your tutelage and enjoys your work and life for many many years to come. Thank you, is all I can say.
I agree cast ways would be better, but it’s unlikely to be the rails, they are more than adequate for the task he’s using them for, it’s more likely some missing balls from the bearing blocks, he took them off the rails a number of times without putting a holder block back in, and I’m positive I even saw a couple flying across the desk a couple times.
5th comment... Great lathe... I love it but I dont know how precise it is :D Probably not very precise but good enough for a tuchman! All of those parts are pretty not - precise judging by their quality and also I found them on Ebay :D I am a machinist so I would know (Edit) Wait a sec... Your website says you live in Berlin, It says you are from Israel, Your accent is of a Ukrainian but you speak good English... My brain hurts! (Another edit because I want answers) Does this mean there will soon be aUri Milling Machine!?!
Excellent ! It was wonderful. No one is making for commercial purpose like this. Only a professional can make it with passion. Thanks you for providing such valuable video.
One learns a lot in the doing of a thing and you learn stuff that you couldn't have foreseen until you had done it. So, much of what we all learn is hindsight. We look back and then we see. It seems that all of life is like that. I applaud your journey! You get immersed in the doing and then you learn much! Bravo! Please keep sharing! Thanks! :)
I wish that I possess your creative patience. Your dramatic "out with the old" exploding intro accurately models my creative process. 🤣 I look forward to your new lathe adventures.
Uri, that is beautiful and ridiculous as always! I have built a custom lathe for my work before and I have got an advice for you. Get rid of the wooden headstock. There is no way around this, it will never work. The second thing is that the headstock must be attached directly to the lathe bed (aluminum plate in your case). If fix those two points performance of your lathe will improve dramatically.
I love the intro! "You know, it's not really my style... Who am I kidding? Of course it's my style!!!" I about fell over laughing! Great job on the lathe, sir!!! It's always a pleasure to watch you work!!!
I used the same linear rail system for a small CNC mill I made. I've had some issues with the flexing as well. i found that tightening the small set screw on the bearing blocks in the middle on the side helps a little. It snugs up the bearings to the rails better and takes out some slop.
Hi Uri great job as always - if you look at the beds of the early ornamental lathes - like the Holzapfel's they are massive and these lathes are only designed for light cuts - if you lean on some of the lighter metal lathes, with a clock on the end of a piece of bar the clock will easily deflect. I digress but an acquaintance who used to centreless grind turbo shafts told me rather than scrap a shaft - the rejection rate was massive, they would lean on the machine to increase or decrease the grind. Generally with machines bigger, therefore stiffer is better. Stay Safe
I got the biggest compliment ever a couple of weeks ago. I posted a video of some hand screw clamps I made and someone said they thought you had made them. It felt really good.
You may want to switch to ball screws! The lead screws have backlash when they switch directions. Also with backlash when you are taking a pass the pressure from the tool on the part keeps the backlash in one direction. But when you reverse off the part the pressure is gone so it will chatter on your part. Great looking lathe!! We have an old Derbyshire watch makers lathe in our machine shop and It has a lot of the beautiful touches on the knobs and stuff that yours has too!
I like the idea of a couple of slabs of concrete added for stability and mass, but then have them dressed out with a few pieces of fine wood worked art to heal the soul. For me, aluminum is much cheaper than brass, so CONCRETE covered with aluminum is another idea. Here is one more gem: what about using some custom sized matching step pullies and a custom sized and hand crafted leather belt drive instead of purchasing a timing belt? That way you don't need a fancy motor controller and power supply... (maybe a start-capacitor) and have the speed set by moving the belt between steps. =D Oh, and I also suggest leaving some exposed areas from the concrete when adjusting jacks can be added so you can move things around keep them true as parts wear in... note the earth is under the lathe will be moving around - even concrete settles - wood in the flooring will also settle because it is all sitting on the earth - so it's nice to have some adjustment where you don't have to shim up everything all the time.
Wahnsinn, die Arbeit. Die Axis linear Gleisschienen mit Blocklager sind bestimmt zu wacklig. Danke fürs zeigen. Madness, the work. The Axis linear slide rails with block bearings are definitely too shaky. Thank you for showing me.
