Question: is it possible to make threads on a pipe? And how would i do such a thing without buying a very expensive die. I am planning to make a filament extruder, but i can really put on a “nozzle without threads. Alternatively I could try and weld a plate on to the pipe. And make a hole into the plate. Which is obviously not preferable
@@rikdenbreejen5230 yes you can, theres a variety of pipe threads. They tend to follow with the size of pipe you're using. They are external threads though... If you want internal threads you can possibly use any fine thread that fits.
Agree. But a the very moment you need a custom nozzle, say in a odd diameter, a bi-metal configuration or with special material properties, the machine will pay for itself in no time. Even more so, when you can save a piece of existing machinery for which no spare parts are available any more by machining the missing bits in your own shop.
Absolutely, but making these one dollar parts are the practice you need to have under your belt for when you need to make those really important and expensive parts.
Also... y'know... you can make other stuff besides nozzles. Even if you only want to do 3D printed projects, a lathe is still a really useful augmentation to one's tool set. Being able to make custom threaded inserts and other mechanical linkages is perhaps the most obvious advantage. If you can print plastic AND machine metal, you unlock a lot of choices for materials and methods in the design of your projects.
@@BandanaDrummer95 TOT already did, sort of, though more as a joke I suspect: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sFXniBbgbw0.html "DIY CNC Welding & 3D Metal "Printing""
I’m a tool maker. You can get 60deg drills or cutters. I would sharpen a drill bit because I can and it’s cheaper as I have drills laying about. Also, if you are looking for accuracy, heat and callipers are your enemy. Coolant and micrometers are the way to go.
I've had a mini lathe for years. I planned to build a steam engine but was about to sell the lathe. Your video was perfect timing to inspire me to keep the lathe and complete the project. I would enjoy more videos on your using the lathe. Thanks!
@@DH-xw6jp I got caught up in another project (making aircrete) and did not make any progress on the steam engine, I have also moved across the country. However I finished the aircrete project (not a success) and now to unpack the lathe, mill and 3D printer and get going! I am conflicted - do I build a steam engine or a sterling engine?
Those would be really expensive nozzles, if I sold them ;-) But how knows, this at least gives me the opportunity to play around with different shapes and features and maybe one of these experiments might lead to CNCKitchen Nozzle.
When you said last time you were working on a lathe was 13 years ago, I heard 30 years ago. I thought NO WAY is this guy older than 34-35 LOL Love you channel and great video !
Stefan, I'm not a "maker" at all. I watch all of your videos for a proper education and also entertainment from your discoveries. If the mini-lathe has other projects that get your interest, I'm here for them. If you need a break and want to get into something else, or back to a 3D printer, I'm here for that too. I am interested in the idea of whether or not the quality of a extrusion nozzle matters. Also I'm curious if you can tighten up your measurements and improve over the E3D designs. Great video and impressive work!
Stephan, when referring to single point lathe tools... Right handed will cut from right to left. Left handed will cut from left to right. I had the same confusion when I started working in a Tool and Die shop some 45 years ago. Great video, Thank you.
I do like the idea of mini lathes combined with 3D printing. I bought a 80 year old lathe for £250 here in England and I bought that as a tool to improve my 3D prints making custom supports and other odd bits. I'd love to see what else you would do with the lathe in future projects.
To answer your question in regards to grinding a 60 degree angle on a drill bit ... you can definitely do this! The key things to remember though are to make each side of the flute as equal as possible (using a fixture is the best), making sure there isn't a positive angle as a relief (you don't want the tool to rub and create excessive force) and to make the cutting edge have the smoothest finish possible. I've been a CNC machinist for 15 years working on Swiss style lathes. I'm looking forward to any future videos on this topic. 😊
I bought the exact same Lathe from Paulimot. Since it isn't very rigid light cuts are often needed so I decided to convert it to CNC. It's great because now I can use a parting blade to cut any complex shapes.
I milled a new cross slide on the cnc mill put a stepper on it. The leadscrew uses a ihsv servo, but it has terrible backlash, I should have changed it with a ballscrew. For a controller I used a pokeys57cnc with mach4 and 2 handwheel encoders so I can use it like a manual lathe. Here is a short video of it in action: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LBFXywe46-8.html Also this guy has a not yet done series about the conversion of the mini lathe and he does a much better job than I am: ru-vid.com
Good job, you won't regret buying a lathe. I've had a tiny Seig C1 for the last 15 years. In the past month I've finally bought myself a reasonable size workshop lathe, and also a mill. 2 of dream purchases in one month!!
This is awesome! I'd love to see you try some non-planar 3d printing with a custom-machined elongated nozzle! All the videos I typically see of non-planar printing have really restrictive limits, a longer nozzle could maybe give some more impressive results
Great work. Quick suggestion: you can run the tiny drill bit during the first setup. If you use it after you do the previous drilling operations then you will already have the spot drill and it will be perfectly concentric with the bores (plus you wont need to worry about runout when flipping the part). You would just need to clean up the hole after using the parting tool. Let me know if the wording on this is not clear.
It's always best to ream the hole to the final dimension, just make sure you get the correct reaming bit because they do come in over and under sized diameters for different machining operations.
I've got almost the same lathe, but mine is about fifteen years old. I don't use it very often, but when I do, I'm always very happy I have it. I also built my own box frame 3d printer a few years back. So yes, I would like to see more lathe and 3d printer videos.
Yes you're right in saying you can grind a drill to a 60 Degree tip. Once you have the angle you want, grind clearance behind the cutting edge otherwise you end up having to put extreme pressure on the drill and part when you try to use it and it heats up the tip. Finally, make sure the last thing is to use a sharpening stone to just blunt the cutting edges of the drill at 90 deg to the cut. The softness of the Brass tends to deform and pull the drill (like a screw) rather than cutting. It seems a bit backwards, but blunting the drill cutting edges slightly helps to shear the material off rather than deforming it. I've used this trick a lot on Plastics such as Acrylic, Acetal, Polycarbonate as well as on metals like Brass, Bronze, and Copper.
Great video, as usual. Picking Paulimot was a wise decision because their quality standards are indeed higher and they do know their stuff and they did help me with technical issues over the phone more than once. I can see that you are using "universal" inserts - but there are also "sharp" or polished ones for non-ferrous metals that resemble HSS tools. Paulimot will sell you individual ones of those for around €4.00 but if you shop around a bit you might find bargains for around 20 bucks for a box of 10. ... as for your parting tool: there too you might want to look at an insert holder and "sharp" bits. What's convenient about those is that you can find parting inserts with a radius - great for O-ring grooves or when you want to turn soft inner corners that dont act as stress raisers - look for type MRMN-200 inserts to find out more.
This was a darn neat video to watch! I love working on the old manual lathes, they're so darn satisfying to use. Being able to make your own nozzles could let you do all kinds of interesting things, as far as internal and external geometry goes, I say most certainly carry on with it!
I’ve never been much of a project guy before I bought my 3D printer but this is awesome. It has to be a pretty awesome feeling to have made your own nozzle.
I love the use of the digital indicator, I usually mark the drill at the depth I want with a marker, but I don't really use the manual lathe at work for precision jobs, love your channel, stay awesome.
I'm a new machinist, I've been at it for about a year. The one thing I could say here is that you can get those same inserts in HSS. You don't have to use carbide OR grind your own tools. That being said, if the carbide's working for you, use it. I use it at slower speeds at work because the rounded cutting edges don't chip as easy as steal. I've even got my boss doing it.
it`s nice to see someone use that mini lathe, i was thinking about getting a paulimot sieg c2 myself, so i`m really lookinh forward to maybe seeing your impression of it in the future
For machining brass, it's very doable to grind a custom shaped drill out of a piece of drill rod. Turn or grind teh profile you want, then cut away half of it. It's called a single flute or "D" drill. Also, carbide inserts are typically not very sharp due to the coatings, they are difficult to find but there are HHS dead sharp inserts available, or uncoated carbide is fine for brass. Second, a reamer will give you a much better finish than a drill as a finishing operation, you will need to drill it undersized first. Third, center drills are not really meant for spotting, the 60 degree angle is intended to provide a bearing surface for your tailstock center. The angle means the drill will contact corners first, and will want to dig in instead of cutting smoothly. A spot drill that has a face angle matching your drill is the best option. Forth, starting with hex stock is a very common practice, don't feel like you are being lazy lol.
As a professional CNC lathe operator, about the grinded drillbit. It is certainly possible to grind a drill bit to that a 60 degree angle, or you could buy one. For best results i would recommend using a cutting liquid as well when drilling in brass.
I am a sucker for good quality tools. I own several tools I've never used, but fell in love with the quality design and capabilities. I don't have an immediate need for a lathe, but I would like to add one my tools collection. I just need a larger hobby room. Thanks for posting this interesting video.
You could regrind a drill bit to 60 degrees to make the new version of the nozzle. Or, you can use a piece of drill rod/silver steel to machine a 60 degree D-bit, mill the cutting surface in half, harden, and then polish with a stone. Both methods will work, the drill bit would have to be free hand ground where the drill rod can be machined on the lathe. There are several videos and texts on d-bit grinding and it is a good way to make custom profiles in the home shop.
A great trick for you! You can flip your single point threading tool upside-down and run your spindle backwards, which allows you to start a right handed thread from the inside at the undercut. This allows you to not have to worry about that nano second margin of error disengaging the thread pass without running into your stock or chuck.
You are correct,you could simply grind the drill tip to 60 degrees. Clamp a guide to your grinder and spin the drill against it in your fingers until the tip is all at this angle. Using the angle as a guide simply back the lands off a little on the grinder to give a nice rake clearance. Only a very little would be enough. Some drill sharpening jigs allow you to adjust the tip angle but it's really quite simple to do by hand and eye.
The spring around the jaw tool is so ingenious! I remember even experienced lathe operators breaking their fingers because they got interrupted and forgot the tool inside the jaw.
Congrats on the mini-lathe ! It's so much fun to have one at home, many things become possible. Great job on the nozzle ! About the angle between the two bores, you could use a very small countersink or even make one with the angle you think it's best.
Stefan, For future reference: You can use a bit of appropriately sized copper wire wrapped around the threads to clamp it in the jaws without destroying the threads. With how small it is though - I'd say your implementation may be more stable. You're making me want to buy a lathe now. Great job!
I saw this in the background of your last video and wondered if you ever did a video on it. I just got a mini mill and mini lathe and they have been making appearances on my channel. Super useful tools to have around the shop and have been 3D printing things to organize and upgrade them.
Even in 3d printing having a lathe is a huge advange. For example today I printed round lid which occurred a bit off size. Of course it is possible to fix such issue with help of file but it is not convinient. Furtunately recently I printed lathe chuck which helped a lot, although it is not even close to precision of real one.
Hey a tip if you are planning on doing cutaways in the future especially if you are trying to retain small features or fragile parts you can encase a them in a hard resin before cutting away.
I have a suggestion if you plan to do more in the future. @11:25 you talk about the center bit being 0.5mm and you can't plunge it in too far. If you made the tip of the nozzle longer, you can plunge the center bit in further. Then use your 0.4mm drill bit. The last operation would be to take off the waste 0.5mm part of the nozzle. Thanks for an awesome video!!!
A small (tiny) centre drill would give you a ready made 60 degree form tool , but grinding ones from a small drill would be fairly easy . One tip , once ground blunt the cutting edges with a fine stone to prevent it grabbing in brass
What i did was, leaving more material in nozzle end for a better center to drill the 0,4mm and cut it away. For a better way of measuring the taper, index the cutter on a know surface (face of the leaved surface as written above), move to wanted cut area. After touching by looking at the dial you would know how much u plunged in... Do the math beforehand. And use the flats of the calipers when you have the chance rather then the sharp tips. Regard from a fellow aerospace student from aachen.
Nice job using the half nut on your lathe as a dolly for the benchy boats... I'm impressed your lathe handled your use of that carbide insert as essentially a form tool instead of a single point cutter, I suspect it's not conventional but it certainly made the right looking result. Nice concentricity too for a 3 jaw! I wonder if it would be easier and flatter in the tip if you left a little extra length until after you drill the little 0.4mm hole, to face off as the last operation.
So I'm sure you are going to try to make an all metal heat brake - It's on my list of things also. I'm going to try T5 titanium and stainless steel. T5 has low thermal conductivity and good machinability (for titanium). Haven't settled on a stainless alloy yet. One you tuber suggests drilling the 4.0 MM hole for the Teflon tube to 4.2 mm causing less heat exchange between the heat brake and the Teflon tube. Cheap heat brakes sometimes leave the drilled 4.0 mm holes as is with a taper at the bottom from the drill bit tip - this can cause the Teflon tube to constrict or compress - no good. I will try to finish the 4.0 mm (or 4.X) hole with another drill bit ground flat on the end - might work. Otherwise I'll buy an end mill when I settle on a final dimension.
4:00, when I worked in a shop making valves, we always bought the proper sized hex stock for the job at hand. It makes no sense to mill your own hex. 11:30, I'm not a machinist by trade, but what you could do is make the length of the nozzle slightly longer than needed, drill your center hole, then your final hole size. Then cut it off to length.
No one expects the spanish inqui...wait....someone making a 3D Printer nozzle on a mini lathe. This is awesome and to see the resulting benchies and the non existent difference is astonishing. Did not expect that. Cheers!
You’ve done a great job with this Lathe, and it looks like you got a good one to get such accuracy! You’ve got all the good accessories, especially the tool post and digital dial indicators. I bought one of the same models a few years ago and it was complete rubbish! Nothing I could do would get it working properly. A case of inconsistent Chinese quality control. I agree with you about manual control. There is something very satisfying about shaping a piece of metal by hand.
The tailstock die holder is super cool, I've never seen those before (though I'm not too deep in the world of turning) and nice use of the power feed as a slider at 13:30!
Nice! I tried making my own nozzles in this way a few years ago, but it's a huge amount of work for something you can buy for very little. Now, I buy 0.3mm nozzles and drill them out to 0.35mm. The drill wobble you encountered @11:55 may be due to your headstock and/or tailstock alignment to the lathe's long axis. Barely noticeable on larger parts, but a killer for small carbide drills! As the nozzle hole is possibly THE most critical feature, maybe worth getting the alignment right...
For all tools minimise the extension out from the toolpost. This is particularly important for parting tools. Let it stick out the minimum required to do the job. Make sure parting tools are perfectly square to the lathe centreline. Lovely little lathe, mini dro units are particularly good. To replace the dial gauge set up on the tailstock, you could modify a digital caliper to give you accurate depths.
I used to make drill bit they were for masonry but we had to grind them onsite as part on the manufacturing process after heat treating so if you don't let it over heat and ruin the heat treating I'd say it's well worth a go with an older bit
Habe in meiner Ausbildung als Zerspaner damals auch gleich mit Wendeschneidplatten angefangen. Erst als ich dann auf eigene Fast angefangen habe meine eigenen Meißel zu schleifen hab ich wirklich ein Gefühl für das Metall bekommen und herausgefunden, welche Schneidengeometrie für welche Einsatz am besten geeignet ist. Hartmetallplatten sind etwas tolles und erleichtern das Arbeiten an der Drehbank in vielen Fällen ungemein. Wer jedoch tiefgründig lernen will mit seiner Drehbank umzugehen (und vllt. auch den einen oder anderen Euro zu sparen) sollte am Anfang seine eigenen Meißel schleifen.
Hello, Consider stepper motors with dual outputs allows. This allows you to put the crank back on the end of the stepper motor. That gives you best of both worlds. A note of caution, unplug or create a switch to disconnect the stepper motors wires from the circuit board. When hand cranked stepper motors create electricity and push it down back down the line.
That was awesome! Thank you for doing this project. It’s been on my mind to buy a mini lathe to do similar custom projects for my own 3D printer and other hobbies. Well done! I would love to see more and can’t wait to see what you do next. Thank you!
For the taper, you could also relatively easily fabricate a spade drill. Since you'll only be removing a tiny bit of material, geometry is not critical - no need to worry about chip evacuation, and brass is easy to machine. Clickspring has made such things from (I think) old nails.
Hello, you can't stop buying a mini lathe after this video 😀 I flip thread cutter upside down, invert the rotation, this way when you cut it goes away from the chuck which is much mistake forgiving ! i do the end of the rewinding turning the chuck by hand. I a bit bit tedious but you can't crash your par this way. Danke fur diese hubsche video 😀
I know the tooling is a bit expensive when you get down to to the small sizes but can you look into making a boaring bar for the hole in the nozzle and then with that make a tapered id hole for the nozzle
Since you’ve had good success making a regular E3D nozzle, what might be an interesting challenge is if you are ever interested in trying out non-planar 3D printing, you could try making an extended length nozzle. One company is selling them already and they are very expensive.
Since you are machining bronze id say take a 2mm drill bit , hold it at an approximate angle against a grinding wheel or something fit to cut the drill bit. and just grind it to the angle you want, drill with a fresh drillbit , then take out the tip with the ground one. Bronze is so easy to cut, if you are careful you wont break the bit. Then i'd try taking a bit of Emery cloth , pull a bit thats around 2mm wide and stuff it in the hole for a couple seconds to smooth any imperfections.
I'm an experienced machinist. You can grind a 60 degree angle. Do not forget to dull the drill slighly (for brass). Using carbide is fine. I would drill the small hole first, then shape the nozzle.
