i was rewatching this for no particular reason - i will definitly steal that trick to align the tailstock! lots of different ways to do it,but this one is bloody genious
Thanks, I wish I hd thought of it, but also picked it up on one of the forums. It prevents gravity acting on the DTI as you try to sweep a vertical circle.
You have become my go-to guy for the lathe. COMMON SENSE approach to the problems. The incredible unnecessary steps and procedures mandated by most folks on youtube are debunked. Don't believe me...just watch a bunch of tailstock alignment videos and you will see. Hard to find one that doesn't MANDATE a test bar, machinists level, unbelievable manipulations to everything in the shop, just to align the tailstock. I have suggested to just put a laser in the chuck and or the tailstock and line 'er up. All forms of hate came my way for not being stuck in the "conventional" baloney! ...Think out of the box and figure out your own methods with common sense and general knowledge of math and physics. YOU ARE THE MAN.
Thanks for the positive feedback. I once tried swinging a DTI around the tailstock quill, but it was a royal PITA and you are fighting gravity. I picked up this method on one of the forums, and it seems pretty simple.
@@paulwomack5866 I guess anything which gets people cutting metal is a good thing. For the years that this was my only machine tool, I was glad I had it. Shame there is a lot of misinformation out there, but that is the nature of internet I guess.
Nice work. I scraped our banana shaped cross slide on our benchtop 10in lathe at work, made a huge difference. I couldn't get it to not be sloppy, but move easily, and now i can.
I’m told the tailstocks on these lathes are used as carpentry tools, after they’re casted, as is. When ever they start missing hitting the wood screws into structural timbers of 1000 foot sky scrapers, they donate the battered tailstocks, in their raw shape to Seig for $100 each. Their thinking is, “it may not be straight enough to hit a screw straight into structural building lumber, but it’s good enough for mini-lathes.
Really nice clear explanation of how to get a tailstock accurately in line. I also have a small CNC lathe and found that I have never used the tailstock as all the parts I have made have been short. I found it was well worth taking time getting the chuck running as true as possible, No doubt you have already done this.
I tend to use a 4 jaw, as it has the larger through hole. Therefore I am clocking the part in anyway. Otherwise I have an ER32 chuck I made for it for more repeatable mounting.
How is it that I thought I had found every possible mini lathe RU-vid creator on Earth over the last three years of searching and out of the blue I find you when I am looking for someone else who had a tail stock that was a bit too high? I subscribed as soon as I saw your lathe.
Hah! Looking back at your first videos in this series, "previous you" would have been REALLY IMPRESSED at the casual way "modern you" took a few measurements, spread some thick blue on, and scraped your way to accuracy in only 13 well judged passes
I have done a tailstock rebuild to correct slop in the barrel similar to yours. What I did was to lap the bore with a lead lap until it was round and parallel throughout. Then I had the barrel ground down and hard-chromed, and then ground to the new bore size. Worked a treat.
Was it difficult to find a company willing to do the hard chroming for a one off? If it was a better machine, I might have considered boring out the castings, and bonding in a sleeve, or using Moglice, but for this machine that would be polishing a turd.
@@RotarySMP Try checking around with a few hydraulic cylinder repair shops. Hard chroming and precision grinding back to size and roundness is a very common method of repair when the exposed rods get damaged. $10k in repairs is a lot cheaper than replacing a $200k cylinder. Those repair shops may not do the hard chroming in house, but for sure they'll know who does. With that done, an automotive engine re-builder that knows what there doing can also sleeve the tail stock bore and high precision hone it to low 10ths clearances for not all that much money considering the accuracy they can do the work to. Maybe this might be over kill as you say for a mini lathe, but it's a good option when rebuilding a larger/better lathe.
@@turningpoint6643 Are those services commonly available over there? Here in europe, car engine rebuilding is really not a thing anymore. Car engines last so long, and the resale of vehicles so limited, that there is not much of a market for it. I have no idea who does hard chroming in here in central europe, but generally it is extremely difficult to interest process engineering companies to take on a single piece job here.
I recently did a cam-lock on my South Bend FOURTEEN LATHE tailstock. I finally became too annoyed at having to get the wrench and loosen the nut, having to pick the wrench off the nut and partially turn it more because the way the tailstock was designed you can’t move the wrench to completely loosen and tighten it with one movement. At that size, it required a fair amount of machining the tailstock as well as the other parts. I used A-2 air hardening tool steel for the camshaft, because that has essentially no warpage as that’s a major wear point, and made the bearings from drill bushings which are perfect for this purpose.
If you grind around the top of the lip on your drum to about halfway down fold, the top of the drum will then just pull out and you will have no sharp bits because part of the fold will form a smooth edge on the top of your drum just may need quick sand and this works with most drums this is how I cut the tops out of 200 litre/44-gallon drums.
Funny you should say something about 3D printing something to organize your qctp holders. I literally did that 2 days ago. It's too bad you can't post pictures here, but post your email and I'll send you a couple pics and maybe give you an idea for your setup, or at least how someone else does something there's a million ways to do LOL.
Hi, I won't post my email into an open forum like this, but would like to see your tool holders. Please post them to my Mini Lathe build thread here... forum.linuxcnc.org/26-turning/38280-pimping-the-mini-lathe
A scraping? Why not just take a pass with an end mill on the maho? Or some sandpaper with something precision underneath it, to match the flatness of the plane of the tail stock? Interesting to see the techniques used on the other side of the pond. I guess there are no wrong answers, as long as the end goal is achieved. Jb weld, and epoxy, scraping these are all just very foriegn concepts to me, and never terms or processes I've seen used in all the years I've been machining.
Scrapping is the classic machine tool alignment method. However as others have pointed out, the issue is unlike to be the table. It is probably misadjusted gibs or way wear.
I have found that in the home shop organizing and storing tools is the best way to lose them. Work is a different thing, tool control is a warm fuzzy essential thing.
@@RotarySMP I haven't done that yet, but I have bought a new copy of a tool to scare the original one out of hiding; that works every time and usually pretty quickly too. 🤔😂
your game. tailstock has to be the hardest damn thing to deal with. i know my big lathe needs work. finally shoved an indicator on the spindle and just checked the parallelism... yup. i got at least 1mm of meat to remove. which is good, because if yours got dragged down a road, then mine was unearthed from under the road, cleaned with a jackhammer followed by a sheeps foot roller. otherwise, it actually looks straight and parallel. just too high. with the quill... maybe, possibly... ever considered a "taper gib" sleeve? giving it some serious thought on my mill... ie, bore it tapered, throw a tapered split sleeve and a locking nut... or in other words a stinking big custom collet... be really nice to have a quill that can actually be adjusted for slop and wear. would also possibly provide better locking action... grun... pffft. why "british racing green"? gordon bennet trophy cup, englands still run by stuffy wankers in suits, and yeah... ireland hosted it instead. green for appreciation. fun random fact for the day :) hence the isle of mann... british were busy making sure they had the horse riding in front... gone full circle with their ULEZ nonsense, lol. ! they want to do it here too now!
None of my machines is painted BRG. They are RAL 6011 Reseda green :) The solution for the mini lathe tailstock is a different lathe. No more polishing that turd :)
@@RotarySMP just the green made me draw vaguely connected relations ;) look, you might win a beer at the pub for knowing it one night. lol. my mini lathe stock is pretty good actually. its my big lathe that gives me mental issues.
I put a small piece of shim stock in the front of the bore on top and the shim stock stayed in place when I move the quill some how. LOL. Temp fix as I seldom use the tailstock. Other mods first. My HF Mini has a B&S #9 which is the same as my Vernon #0 H MIll. I used the saw arbor to align my HS and will no doubt use it to lap in the tailstock when the time comes and bush it. When i built VW's we had a line boring tool. Wish I had it now.
@@RotarySMP THat's not all! The carriage had a .006" taper front to back where the cross slide runs on and the headstock side of the carriage where the cross slide runs on was .027" higher than the TS side! The top of the dovetail had to be machined as well. The shaper was put to work. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PH0fHF9laoY.html
@@GeckoCycles Something mesmerising about shapers. The guiding surfaces ofmy take stock look like they were machined by tieing them to the rear bumper and drivingaround the block.
A tailstock bearing surface should not see any perceivable wear in decades of proper use, as you dont really move it under load... It is slid on a film of oil up and down the bed slides but its only seeing load of any kind when locked in spot... Maybe, if you have a good longer base and a decently heavy little tailstock, you can use it unlocked as a sensitive drilling body, but apart from that exception, i dont see how it could wear down in any significant way over time... Apart from that, nice job m8! Enjoying your vids, tho i dont really love cnc... I am more of a ludite and prefer old iron with handwheels... Or hydraulic feed, or whatever that is not cnc, but i will have to get a maho like yours soon if it isnt sold by then, as i am oogling one and know that cnc does offer some great benefits and can save a lot of time on identical parts production...
Those minilathe tail stocks are so poorly machined, that they tippy toe on a couple of tiny contact points. The iron is also soft, so you only need a little grit on the bed for it to wear when being moved. The idea that the the tailstock ways dont wear and can be used as a reference for checking the saddle ways is a bit of a myth. If you ever blue up an old worn lathe with a reference straight straight edge, you will will find plenty of wear on the tailstock ways as well. Most people are not that anal about keep the ways clean and lubed.
HEY, shouldn't you have 'trammed" the fixed jaw of the vice to the mill quill?, before starting?, as then you KNOW the table feed is straight, you won't cut a taper!!
@@RotarySMP the reason i said use you chuck to run the boring bar is that way the hole would be in line with the chuck and with the slide piece would be line up automatically
That is the gear changing It has an 18 speed mechanical gearbox. It drive the main spindle motor back and forth at 90V (instead of 400V), this is to ensure that the gear stages actually mesh. github.com/jin-eld/mh400e-linuxcnc/wiki/MH400E-Gearbox--Description
If you fill it with water, and just a bit I’d detergent, then shake it a couple times, then empty it, all the gas will be gone. I do think consider it to be safe to cut it with a plugged in tool when it’s full. You just do t know if something will trap when cutting, and water will splash out onto the tool. Even if it’s double insulated, there’s risk.
That is why I first checked the relationship between the ram and the bore. As it was within a thou, I continued to measure with the ram, as it is easier. You are of course right that my simplified measurement dis not take angluar errors between the ram and bore into account, and that an MT2 test bar in the tail stock would have been more accurate.
meh, most likely he *has* imperial indicators. Also likely is he has 40 year old imperial indicators that still work fine. Or maybe he worked on Boeings. You know, US planes:-)
He is the guy who "wrote the book" on machine tool reconditioning and scraping... tuxdoc.com/download/edward-f-connelly-machine-tool-reconditioning-anbookfiorg_pdf 539 pages! Great cure for wonky ways, and insomnia :)
That Maho 400 E it stay on the rong spot sorry, 😉 you have to move it to the Netherlands, city Emmen in the early day(35y) I stand behind a Maho 800 P I have a nice spot free in my shop
AAAAHHHHH Yes the bloody tailstock 😫 The absolute most useless piece of shit on the planet . I now understand why so many people convert these to CNC - if you replace 60% of the parts on a mini lathe you fix 61% of the problems with them !
@@RotarySMP sure, I wonder what professional people would think or say if someone bolted a lathe vertically to the shop wall... Takes less space and everything
@@TheMetalButcher Yeah. This RU-vid free music is pretty generic. One song I used sounds a lot like the Cure's Just like heaven though, so that is okay.
