One thing maybe worth noting here is the size of the component you are soldering. The power header pins are pretty chunky, much more so than say the pins on the jack sockets. I can see the jack sockets being processed really nicely, just as you’d like them to be. But when tou have a big old chunk of power header, it’s worth thinking about how the heat from the iron might be transferring. If the temp stays the same for all components big and small, you should try leaving the iron connected to the metal for longer, to let that solder-melting heat dissipate into the area you’re working in. I think as others have said, maybe a higher temp could be employed, at least for the bigger chunks you need to heat up. The only slight worry with longer heating is sometimes you can inadvertently damage other components nearby.. so for a new build it could be worth looking at the bigger elements like power header pins, as they might be better to do before other smaller bits in the same section on the board, which could go against the usual rule of building small to big (which in my opinion is less important when you have a good clamping system). Just my views, throwing them into the mix with all the other great advice here ❤
Thanks for this, very helpful! That does make sense. I really struggled with soldering the power header, which has been proven in the fact that both modules failed because of the badly soldered power headers! I'll check out the temp and good point re soldering this component first!
That module has interested me some, but I'm currently restraining from buying ANY MORE Eurorack modules this year. Besides, no empty space in my setup. But that's a great module for someone just getting into building, since it's just pots, jacks, and the power connector. And a tip for you Nicki - what I'll do when soldering those is actually connect the power cable to it, so I can hold it so that it's flush to the PC board without having to have my fingers touching any pins, which get hot. I just counted, I've got 62 modules that I've built to date.
That’s a great tip! Many thanks! It was a nice easy build (even though I might have made a pigs ear of it!) the next build is a harder one, so I’m going to get some leaded solder and practise a bit more before I attempt the next project! You must be a pro having built 62 modules - well done! That’s inspiring!
Here's a tip for when the solder won't melt: Instead of touching the iron to the work and then adding solder, put the end of the solder on the pad first, then gently let the iron melt through the solder until it reaches the lead/pad. This technique works especially well with lead-free solder. It's how I was trained as a J-STD-S instructor, and it's the method I use in my own classes. With tin/lead solder and new components, you never need to add any flux. However, lead-free solder can always benefit from a *small* amount of flux. I like Chip-Quik paste flux. Make sure that any flux you add is compatible with the flux in your solder core, because mixing two incompatible fluxes can result in a difficult-to-remove sludge that interferes with the flow of solder. And yeah... always use a work holder. :)
O, rain! ok. Seems like you might need to adjust that Soldering Iron up a little to get it just a little hotter (or maybe upgrade to one that can?). This attempt @ 2:21 is called a cold joint, and won't be good in long term. It really shouldn't bead up like that, instead it should almost get sucked in by capillary action onto the pad and wire. That last set of soldering went very well tho at 3:50. Interesting video!
Thanks, I can definitely increase the temp on the one I have so I’ll give that a go. Oh gosh I bet I have lots of cold joints in my modules! Thanks for the advice, very much appreciated! I’m guessing practise will make perfect (one day 🤣)
@@iamseeingdots Fiddly indeed, but once you start using flux, you will wonder how you soldered without it. To clean it off after, just use some surgical spirits. Enjoy your holiday!
Nicki, what iron were you using, and what tip? I've built boards since 1970's so..... maybe I can give you some advice. The flux advice is a good one, but I assume you are using rosin core solder?
I am using the OSS team T12-X Plus soldering iron which has full temperature control on it. The tip is a slightly wide angled tip, I previously tried a fine tip but I struggled with it, the solder came off in balls when I put the solder to the tip for some reason - maybe the temperature on the iron was set wrong? Yes the solder is rosin core - does that mean I don’t need flux? I have considered lead solder but I have been told that it’s not that good for you and you need a proper extractor fan with the lead. Thanks in advance for your help!
I wouldn't recommend getting lead solder unless you get a decent fume extractor and have plenty of space around you. Unleaded is fine, PCB's have to be lead free as do all consumer products. Leaded solder is easier to solder with but I would be concerned health wise.
Thanks for the advice! I’ve had a few people recommending leaded solder, and given my recent issues soldering I was wondering whether that might be the answer. I did however have concerns about the fumes. Think I’ll try persevering with the lead free and perhaps try different temperatures on the iron!
It’s a wavefolder so it basically adds harmonics to a simple waveform. We’ve not plugged it in yet but when we do we’re planning on doing a demo vid to show what it can do :)
